Brad-ManQ45

I have already ordered it after reading the JTR manual on V-8 swap 'til I can just about quote everything verbatim. I ordered the TPI manual jusat in case it may have something about LT1's (doubtful). As I will be using an Accel/DFI computer system, don't know how much it will help. Thanks for the input.

I've looked but don't think I've seen anyone who has documented LT1 W/AC swap in an early Z.... I have an '82 Turbo that's currently getting the most out of stock injectors w/o rising rate fuel pressure regulator. It's a 5 speed and I loved it as long as I don't have to drive it in traffic much (hip probs). I have '75 280 that I am currently reworking the suspension on, planning an LT1 swap. Drooling over Ross's stuff and will be contacting him next month when I can hide more money from the Mrs.... Will stock 'vette brackets work? Any problems w/harmonic balancer/optical distributor and the front crossmember? TIA for the input... Brad

What do you guys think of going JE and using 6" rods on the 302? I know that the short stroke already gives the 5.7" rods a better rod/stroke ratio, but this would take even MORE side-load off the pistons and let it run more compression to boot. I must say I a seriously considering using a 302/w/auto on my '75 project (I have an '83 Turbo 5-speed and am tired of shifting in Atlanta traffic). You think this is overkill?

Any difficulties putting an LT1 in a 280Z? Concerned w/Distributor/harmonic balancer area and crossmember. Any tips/advice would be appreciated. Brad

Has anyone tried this? I'm not sure I wasnt to go w/Aluminum radiator on daily driver. Suggestions? TIA, Brad

Has anyone purchased the foreign-manufactured fenders frooom Victoria British? Someone told me that you can't get 70-78 fenders from NIssan anymore. If this is true, then I need to know my options - one z-yard here didn't have anything that wasn't in worse shape than I already have....

Those mirrors look like they came off of a 71 -73 Mustang.....

Actually, the blow-off valve is iin the plumbing between the compressor output and the trottle body. On non-metered (speed density) air systems, these can be vented to the atmosphere, but on stock turbo z'z and those using AFM's or AMS, should be vented to before the turbo to keep fuel at the proper proportion.

I had to replace the turbo in the car that I bought w/118000 miles on it at 136000 miles (I change oil religiously every 2500 in all cars - or every 3 months - cheap insurance. Before the turbo always seemed to whine more than the new one - and the new one is vastly better both in spool up and amount of boost and outlet temperature. 10 lbs w/o intercooler for 40000 miles now. Turbonetics set me up w/T3-T4 watercooled, clipped turbine. If they'd had ball bearing I would have done that too, but this was in '94. I feel much better w/the water cooled center section, as to get home I have to drive through a neighborhood slow enough that I don't have to worry about coking when I pull into the drive -I only havet o shut it off. Because I don't have a compressor bypass, the ball bearing route would be great for durability, as well as spooling faster.

Is this somewher around 4500-5000 rpm accelerating HARD in first gear? Does the engine feel like it loses power? You back off and "feather" the throttle in (roll it on instead of pounding it to the floor) and it doesn't happen (and doing this actually gets you there quicker because the engine doesn't "stall")? I'm not sure, but I think we're experiencing surge. Our big compressors are being driven too quickly by the turbine for the amount of air the engine needs/can handle so the compressor "stalls". I would love to hear what the gurus have to say about this..... Brad

What about WHERE the main hoop attaches? One of the chassis shops questioned the legality (NHRA) of having the main hoop tie in to the boxed section behind the seat (stronger) than the floor pan behind the seat (cuts down on seat adjustment). While we're at it, anyone know someone who builds a cage like this, with the rear extensions going to the back of the car, tie-ins to the strut towers and a cross-brace between the towers? Another question - if you went to a 12 point cage, where would the tubing from the front of the cage in the passenger compartment have to go in order to tie into the front and do any good?

I used to have a '72 "Q" code 351 CJ Mustang - a 71 engine. As the car was built in 1971 they could use the '71 engine. Cars built in '72 had to use the "R" code engines. The CJ was the first 351C to combine open chamber heads and 4V Ports. If you have a regular 351C (w/11:1 C/R), then I believe someone makes a plate that will bolt into the intake to reduce the size of the ports for street use. I wouldn't stroke it, and I wouldn't use the 400 block - too heavy. I had a 3.25 rear gear, Torker Intake and a 780 Holley w/headers on mine and it did not lack for low end torque and would scream up top. Most would say to use a 3.91 aor 4.11 rear gear w/ the torker but honestly, I had more than enough down low on a 3400 lb car. If you are going to use a double pumper, don't go any bigger than a 700 any more and you will lose area under the power curve. The CJ used the same profile cam that the 428CJ used - and to good effect - the duration let it live well on pump gas. If going to strok use the 351W block, 400 crank, custom pistons and LONG RODS. This will reduce tendancy to detonate w/higher compression. Remember that if you use aluminum heads (from FM), you can get another .5 point in compression w/o detonation.

Quaife makes these for the R180 and R200, abit pricey - but not as much as the NIssan parts - and they'll LAST. Nissan - R180 (240-280Z) 115mm ID ring gear $1,395.00 Nissan - R200 (280-300Z) fits both 10mm and 12mm ring gear bolts $1,395.00 http://www.quaifeamerica.com/

Accelerator pump shot is what I would look at. It sounds like you're using all of it before the engine gets going. Don't know about Performer (isn't this like a Carter?), but Holley's allowed you to change the pump cam/reposition the cam to deliver les/more and affect the timing during the stroke (where the highest volume delivered occurrs in relation to accelerator pedal travel. If I had to guess, I would think that you could slow down the initial delivery and make it last longer. Hope this helps