Brad-ManQ45
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Everything posted by Brad-ManQ45
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Here is a link to articles about modifying these.... web page
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Congratulations!
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Thanks Pete!
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I believe Pete has plans on his site: http://members.home.net/pparaska/structuralmods.htm
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Floor pan replacement question
Brad-ManQ45 replied to Danno74Z's topic in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
Thanks a bunch for the article Jeff! I'll be doing this just as soon as I have built my rotisserie, which is just as soon as I finish my welding classes. Timely info, to be sure.... Brad -
Ok I've searched everywhere I can think of and found no way to determine if the Neapco part JTR sells will fit. I looked at an R200 out of a 300ZX NA last night and could'nt determine where the measurement is taken for the pilot flange to tell 2" or 2.25. It was not intuitively obvious, but I'm sure someone out there has the info. If you could share it with all of us, I know I'd appreciate it! Thanks, Brad
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Been a while since i looked at DFI - my bad. Never thought of anything BUT sequential. Will definitely look at DFI again. AEM - Didn't someone say that the interface for it seemed overly complicated? I like the sound of the DFI detecting bad sensors and acting on it... Will investigate AEM too... Don't know how I missed the later posts on the prior thread - must have been busy/braindead (I prefer thinking the former, but more than likely the later )
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Basically, all you're doing is changing where the output from the compressor housing points to, which can be done by anyone. You will, of course have to modify/fabricate wastegate actuator mounting and piping for (I would imagine) and intercooler, or at least from the outlet to the inlet of the TB. If you can handle this last stuff, the re-clocking should be a cakewalk.
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I have received an email stating that the new system can be set up from 8x8 to 16x16 or anywhere in between. Good news for the gang! For those of us w/V-8's and are contemplating turbos, the SDS doesn't seem to have anything, DFI is a little behind. FAST and Electromotive lookin' good and MOTEC a bit out of reach. More comments/discussion anyone? Brad
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They haven't specified how much the computational ability of the CPU has changed. The old system had/has only 64 datapoints. I realize that with interpolation smoothing things out that you may not need much more for an NA or turbo in a racing environment, but for street I would like 16 x 16. A little more granularity, while harder/longer to program would be much better over a wide range - particularly in a boosted environment. I will say though, that Electromotive was the firstest w/the mostest, and if they have upgraded the computer and capabilities (beyond dataloging and direct coil ignition) then I'll seriously consider it.
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Thanks Denny - for all of us!
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Dude, I have an '83 ZXT and let me assure you of one thing - if you DON't have the Auto system, don't put it in. These are expensive and time-consuming to troubleshoot. I have just gotten mine working after a reputable shop managed to bugger the works up. Thanks to FSM and a bit of logic, got it working again. This falls under the category of having the analog dash and converting to digital - WHY? just my .02
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finally... some pics of my 377 swap in my 240
Brad-ManQ45 replied to nullbound's topic in Gen I & II Chevy V8 Tech Board
Nice, nullbound! Wher in Atlanta are you, I'm in Marietta. Love to see it in person. Email me via the link if you want - I don't see your link. Brad -
Definitely mismatched heads/cam/Manifold/carb. If you're going for all out performance... Single plane and Holley - yeah! Not necessarily the DP but the tried and true 3310 (non-emissions 780) since you have the lower stall torque converter (unless you have the money to change that too). Remember that this is the vac secondary carb that came on Z-28s/vettes and fast Fords (square bore pattern unlike the emissions 780), much more forgiving with an auto with low stall. The big factor here is the heads (mucho dinero to get different ones). I believe if I had to do one inexpensive thing, I would change the cam to what would work with the rest of your engine combo. Currently it is the one thing really out of line with the rest of the package, and the PACKAGE is what counts. Yo are experiencing the effects of parts that don't work together. Try it - you might like it - it is the least expensive route. Then you can determine realistically how much faster you want to go at what cost. Just my .02 Brad
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Dart manufactures or markets both aluminum and cast iron blocks for this also. Worl products has blocks also, but cast iron only. Cast iron has a 125 lbs weight penalty. Both manufacturers (I believe) can give you main bearings in either 350 or 400 size. Chekc 'em both out...
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Thanks for the info!
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Beauty! If you're ever down south..... brad
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Generally, redline is the highest engine speed that the bottom end (reciprocating assembly), top-end (valvetrain), intake and exhaust system are designed/built to support. You didn't mention new valve springs, but if you bought a cam kit that had the springs in it then your valvetrain would definitely support the rpms you saw for the engines lifetime. Since we already know the induction system and exhaust let you pull the stated rpms, the only real question is - what was done to the bottom end? Most stock bottom ends should have no problem with 6000 rpms (Pontiacs possibly excluded). As long as you don't keep the rpms up there a lot and only wing it occasionally, no problem. From an engineering standpoint, the higher you go, the less life to the bottom (and top) end - more stress/fatigue). Hot rodders have always been willing to sacrifice a little engine life in order to spin higher and produce more power. They also, depending upon bucks of course, have options that most manufacturer's won't take advantage of when building their bottom ends (for production cars) - forged cranks w/generous fillets, cross-drilling, longer rods. Grumpyvette posted a link to an LS-1 article that will give some insight into what goes into designing an engine - the trials with oiling was an eye-opener. Manufacturers are starting to pull out the stops again in engine development - look at the Honda and Nissan high revving engines - short strokes and LOOONNNNGGGG rods, special (sometimes not forged) cranks (per LS-1). Remember, every buck saved is a major deal, leaving room for the hot-rodder to fill the need with better parts to make the engine last longer at higher rpms. I'm sure I haven't covered this very well, but look at a few of the projects the members here have posted at what they have done and you'll get the idea that we all have a case of "stock isn't good enough" and MORE POWER is only good enough until we need ---- MORE POWER. Power costs money - how fast do you want to go? Looking forward to more responses on this one! Brad
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On The Road Again!
Brad-ManQ45 replied to Scottie-GNZ's topic in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
Well Done Scottie! I have been impressed with your dedication, and even more with your engineering abilities. You, along with a number of others here have been an inspiration to any number of members of this forum, and I would like to take this chance to thank all of you collectively for your willingness to share your experience, knowledge and humor. Everyone - and you know who you are - THANKS! Now Scottie, just another little thing to go w/that new rear... WE NEED MORE POWER! -
I too wish to thank everyone who has given of themselves to the people who view this board. I am a member of a few, but this one is the best! I'm sure I'll reference a lot of the posts again in the future as I'm working on the '75 conversion, having gone through all the other posts to catch up and then 'maintaining' by viewing as often as possible. Thanks again all! Brad
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The ZX Daytona kit can be found at: Reaction Research I have been eyeing the GTO kit but will only do that after everything else that can be done IS - if then
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While we're at it, usually the sensors for traction control work for the ABS system also.... 'nuff said? Brad
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Spreadbores have the same amount of air flowing through the smaller primaries at low rpms, therefore have a higher amount of velocity and fuel atomization. Unless you are turning the vacuum secondary spring on the 750, the spring that comes stock will probably never fully open. I am of the opinion you are better off with a smaller carb w/all barrels the same size (on a single plane intake) and use the vac secondary spring that will open the secondaries fully at redline, that just bolting on bigger carb w/vacuum secondaries that may not fully open. I believe the fuel distribution will be more even, and the fact that you are utilizing ALL of the carb at high rpm (with smaller bores on all barrels) vs only a percentage of the secondaries on a bigger carb (with larger primaries ALL the time - there goes the fuel mixture velocity). I believe that given a little visualization, almost anyone can imagine the difference in airflow patterns between primaries and secondaries on a spreadbore, and a little more thought and visualization should bring the concept of using ALL of a smaller carb as being better than only PART of a larger carb. The larger carb will lose a degree of crispness due to the larger primary bores over the slightly smaller carb ALL the time, and you'll never fully utilize the secondaries. You simply wind up with more area under the curve with a properly sized carb/manifold combination. Dual plane manifolds tend toward the same distribution problems, but also usually have a better low end signal to cover up the effects of a larger carb. I think a lot of people go too big on carbs on a single plane intake when 'piecing' a project together. Go with what is documented in the real world as working well - and if you have a single plane intake, you may be surprised at how low you can go in carb size! All of this is JMHO, mind you....
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Thanks for your responses guys - If only I could type in the wee hours I'd consider this question a success.... I too, have seen the one in JC Whitney and thought it a pretty good deal. I guess I need to scope out the welding supply situation around me for the need to buy/rent tanks.... Thanks again!
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I will be purchasing a MIG welder soon. I will be fabricating a rotisserie, welding in a cage, floor pans and qtr panel and fender patch panels. Could any of you with experience recommend which ones to look for for this? I don't want to go overboard on something I won't need (metal thickness capability). I have already started checking into some welding classes at an area tech school....