Brad-ManQ45

Several of us seem to be at the same stage - new welders, planning rotisseries, etc. I still have 4 more weeks of welding class before I start doing anything. 1st project - Rotisserie. Good luck to us all!

Unless MSA has found a new source, or fibbed when I got mine - I was told I got the last Drivers' side Qtr Panel they had. I have been browsing Northern and the internet and have looked seriously at the flange tool, because I also have patch panels for the lower front fenders. Until I get out of welding class (4-5 weeks), I have plenty of time to scope this stuff out. MillerMatic 175 still in box waiting for C25 mix and ME! I will probably build the rotisserie first though, so I can do as much welding horizontally as possible. I'm itching to get started - tearing the car apart just isn't as satisfying as putting 'em back together! I like the idea of steel flares, but the only ones I have seen are too wide for my taste - I'm thinking 1.5 inches apiece could be the ticket. If I'm the first to use the flange tool, I'll post my impressions here for everyone else, but will definitely keep my eye on any later posts! If anyone does find a source still supplying good body panels, it'll be good to know also.... brad

If your vehicle did not have cats to begin with you do not need them w/a later engine - all other smog stuff DOES have to be present.

Buy one that fits a Mustang T5- it'll work (assuming you're using one. The T-5 that came in 280 ZXT's were different only in Belhousing, input and output shafts. Hurst

I haven't been able to find a REALLY good discussion of the benefits of H-beam over I-beam and under what situations. What about turbo engines? One thread I found stated that H-beams are great for High Rpms, but not a LOT of torque. (Once again - just passing on what I read - I don't know enough to comment - that's why I'm posting this) I'm hoping for some MAJOR illumination here.... Brad

Don't forget traction aids for all that power to the rear wheels... Anything that shifts to the rear will help. My favorite are fuzzy dice - loaded of course.

Here is a link to articles about modifying these.... web page

Congratulations!

Thanks Pete!

I believe Pete has plans on his site: http://members.home.net/pparaska/structuralmods.htm

Thanks a bunch for the article Jeff! I'll be doing this just as soon as I have built my rotisserie, which is just as soon as I finish my welding classes. Timely info, to be sure.... Brad

Ok I've searched everywhere I can think of and found no way to determine if the Neapco part JTR sells will fit. I looked at an R200 out of a 300ZX NA last night and could'nt determine where the measurement is taken for the pilot flange to tell 2" or 2.25. It was not intuitively obvious, but I'm sure someone out there has the info. If you could share it with all of us, I know I'd appreciate it! Thanks, Brad

Been a while since i looked at DFI - my bad. Never thought of anything BUT sequential. Will definitely look at DFI again. AEM - Didn't someone say that the interface for it seemed overly complicated? I like the sound of the DFI detecting bad sensors and acting on it... Will investigate AEM too... Don't know how I missed the later posts on the prior thread - must have been busy/braindead (I prefer thinking the former, but more than likely the later )

Basically, all you're doing is changing where the output from the compressor housing points to, which can be done by anyone. You will, of course have to modify/fabricate wastegate actuator mounting and piping for (I would imagine) and intercooler, or at least from the outlet to the inlet of the TB. If you can handle this last stuff, the re-clocking should be a cakewalk.

I have received an email stating that the new system can be set up from 8x8 to 16x16 or anywhere in between. Good news for the gang! For those of us w/V-8's and are contemplating turbos, the SDS doesn't seem to have anything, DFI is a little behind. FAST and Electromotive lookin' good and MOTEC a bit out of reach. More comments/discussion anyone? Brad

They haven't specified how much the computational ability of the CPU has changed. The old system had/has only 64 datapoints. I realize that with interpolation smoothing things out that you may not need much more for an NA or turbo in a racing environment, but for street I would like 16 x 16. A little more granularity, while harder/longer to program would be much better over a wide range - particularly in a boosted environment. I will say though, that Electromotive was the firstest w/the mostest, and if they have upgraded the computer and capabilities (beyond dataloging and direct coil ignition) then I'll seriously consider it.

Thanks Denny - for all of us!

Dude, I have an '83 ZXT and let me assure you of one thing - if you DON't have the Auto system, don't put it in. These are expensive and time-consuming to troubleshoot. I have just gotten mine working after a reputable shop managed to bugger the works up. Thanks to FSM and a bit of logic, got it working again. This falls under the category of having the analog dash and converting to digital - WHY? just my .02

Nice, nullbound! Wher in Atlanta are you, I'm in Marietta. Love to see it in person. Email me via the link if you want - I don't see your link. Brad

Definitely mismatched heads/cam/Manifold/carb. If you're going for all out performance... Single plane and Holley - yeah! Not necessarily the DP but the tried and true 3310 (non-emissions 780) since you have the lower stall torque converter (unless you have the money to change that too). Remember that this is the vac secondary carb that came on Z-28s/vettes and fast Fords (square bore pattern unlike the emissions 780), much more forgiving with an auto with low stall. The big factor here is the heads (mucho dinero to get different ones). I believe if I had to do one inexpensive thing, I would change the cam to what would work with the rest of your engine combo. Currently it is the one thing really out of line with the rest of the package, and the PACKAGE is what counts. Yo are experiencing the effects of parts that don't work together. Try it - you might like it - it is the least expensive route. Then you can determine realistically how much faster you want to go at what cost. Just my .02 Brad

Dart manufactures or markets both aluminum and cast iron blocks for this also. Worl products has blocks also, but cast iron only. Cast iron has a 125 lbs weight penalty. Both manufacturers (I believe) can give you main bearings in either 350 or 400 size. Chekc 'em both out...

Thanks for the info!

Beauty! If you're ever down south..... brad

Generally, redline is the highest engine speed that the bottom end (reciprocating assembly), top-end (valvetrain), intake and exhaust system are designed/built to support. You didn't mention new valve springs, but if you bought a cam kit that had the springs in it then your valvetrain would definitely support the rpms you saw for the engines lifetime. Since we already know the induction system and exhaust let you pull the stated rpms, the only real question is - what was done to the bottom end? Most stock bottom ends should have no problem with 6000 rpms (Pontiacs possibly excluded). As long as you don't keep the rpms up there a lot and only wing it occasionally, no problem. From an engineering standpoint, the higher you go, the less life to the bottom (and top) end - more stress/fatigue). Hot rodders have always been willing to sacrifice a little engine life in order to spin higher and produce more power. They also, depending upon bucks of course, have options that most manufacturer's won't take advantage of when building their bottom ends (for production cars) - forged cranks w/generous fillets, cross-drilling, longer rods. Grumpyvette posted a link to an LS-1 article that will give some insight into what goes into designing an engine - the trials with oiling was an eye-opener. Manufacturers are starting to pull out the stops again in engine development - look at the Honda and Nissan high revving engines - short strokes and LOOONNNNGGGG rods, special (sometimes not forged) cranks (per LS-1). Remember, every buck saved is a major deal, leaving room for the hot-rodder to fill the need with better parts to make the engine last longer at higher rpms. I'm sure I haven't covered this very well, but look at a few of the projects the members here have posted at what they have done and you'll get the idea that we all have a case of "stock isn't good enough" and MORE POWER is only good enough until we need ---- MORE POWER. Power costs money - how fast do you want to go? Looking forward to more responses on this one! Brad

Well Done Scottie! I have been impressed with your dedication, and even more with your engineering abilities. You, along with a number of others here have been an inspiration to any number of members of this forum, and I would like to take this chance to thank all of you collectively for your willingness to share your experience, knowledge and humor. Everyone - and you know who you are - THANKS! Now Scottie, just another little thing to go w/that new rear... WE NEED MORE POWER!