Brad-ManQ45

RacerX (and others too!) I have been mucking along a year or two w/a singlestage 6 hp 25 gal. compressor, and now am getting to the needlescaler/sandblasting/primer/paint stage of my operation. Since I am probably going to fabricate my own fresh air system, I am considering using this compressor (oilless) to feed myself air, and get another compressor (240V 1 Phase to put in my basement and feed the woodshop and the garage both. My questions revolve particularly around painting w/HPLV and epoxy primers and 2 part paint systems. What CFM/PSI requirements should I be looking for for primer/painting? I'm asking this before actually buying any painting books because I will be using POR-15 on the underside first and will be needing higher cfm when using some of the tools I have. TIA Brad

Thanks Grumpyvette - it sure is nice having someone that KNOWS, but knows where to find info as well as make it easy to understand!

60's Hemis had solid lifter, in '70 they put hydraulic lifters in 'em and a lot of the street racers were running more consistently - seems that even racers can be lazy...

I was calling Mike Knell about the right angle drive adapter for the T5 and told him I had one of his manuals from '97, and he said there was a revised manual out. I asked what the changes wwere and he said 'lots' - for instance about radiators. The only change was some pictures and mention of a Modine unit that was a reproduction of the v-6 4.3 unit. Still had the same errors (right vs left side for the charcoal cannister picture) and confusing explanation of backspacing/offset and fitting wheels/tires to the Z. Could not see any other changes. Even though he only charged me $20 total, I don't feel this was a cool deal...

Hey Grumpyvette - what are the steps to go to a distributorless ignition as far as the pre-LT1 blocks go? Just use a smaller distributor and don't use it for ignition - only to turn the oil pump? I am considering a DART or World Products block, but don't believe they make one for replacing an LT1/LS1/LS6. Plug the distributor hole up and go dry sump would be expensive, but w/turocharging might provide some packaging options....

This is where I ordered my welder from: Central Welding Supply Best prices I have found. I've built engines and replaced 'em and hot-rodded 'em since the late 60's and helped my brother on a ground-up Datsun 1600 short windshield roadster. I chose to do a ground-up because I always wanted to one of my own, and wanted to learn to weld. The satisfaction of knowing that I control the state of everything in the car (and how it will turn out) is a real plus for me. If it was only about the time/money relationship, I could have waited and gotten a West Coast car (possibly already converted) and saved both. For me though, the journey and experiences along the way count a lot toward how much I will enjoy the destination. If you are mechanically inclined, then there is NOTHING that can stop you other than your own lack of commitment (and resources - and you may have hidden sources of these!).

FWIW - my welding instructor said he did a racer's head (1/4 miler) once that had cracked - right after he had speant megabucks on porting etc.... Some of the guys at the VoTech school - teachers AND students, knew exactly who he was talking about - the guy still brags to this day about our instructor saving his head. He pre-heated, brazed and cooled down VERRRRYYY slowly (had heated sand in over and buried the head in it! He seems to think that the slow cooling process after the weld is critical (aligning the crystalline structure). I've seen the artistry (and ease) that is this guy's trademark, and his commitment to nothing sloppy, so I pay attention when he drops any suggestions..... This was 4 years ago and the racer is still using those heads

Beware the lumbar support if you are rear ended! I had a Conquest and the metal plate did a number on my lower back. I took the stock seats out of my '83 ZXT and put in FloFit seats so I could have an air bladder type lumbar adjustment. They barely fit and I had to alter the passenger side bracket to get the seat closer to the trans tunnel. Lost about 1" headroom (missed a lot on bumpy roads), but WAY comfortable. HMMM - wonder if I can shoehorn 'em into my '75?

Someone (Mike I think) has a T56 and 3.54's and he said he has to be doing 75 to get into 6th. Now I do believe he has a pretty stout cam. .5 final gear? I thought .72/.60 was stock and didn't know another was available - no diff.... Sounds like your cam isn't as wild as Mikes, and the EFI certainly makes a diff (he has a carb I believe). All said and done though, if you DO have a .5 you'd probably be bettor off w/a 3.54 or 3.7. Even w/ a .60, unless you do a lot of high speed driving in an area that has few gendarmes, you'd still probably be better off w/the 3.54 or maybe higher. Anyone think differently?

... my wife said she'd rather remodel the kitchen...

On turbo engines, works great in the intercooler...

I have an Ultraflow - 3" center/center w/20" long oval case. This is on an '83 ZXT. Do they still make this one, and if so, what is the part #? Thanks, Brad

Keep in mind that that hood bulge also acts as a stiffener for the hood...

According to my Consumer Review buyeres guides form '90 an d'91, all Q45's had Limited slip. I know that my '94 Q45a has it. If my basement weren't in such a mess from a broken water heate, I might have found my '93 and '95 volumes.

This time I can see all of the pics - go figure!

Unless I'm wrong (won't be the first time), If you are willing to buy pistons and have the block bored and the rotating assembly balanced, you can have your 327. I doubt very seriously that GM made the block casting water passages larger for the 307 vs the 327/350 - they probably just bored the cylinders smaller. 3.88" bore vs. 4.00". smame stroke as the 327. You could truly have a fresh 327! All it would take is money. Of course you'd probably want different heads, cam etc.

Hey Denny - I tried to email you but got the message back. Can you update your profile so I don't have to use this site to continue a dialog? Brad

Denny - Sorry about the zoo - hate disappointing the little ones myself. My little ones are all the neighbor kids now - our son is at West Point. I got lucky, because after reading yours and associated posts, I remembered my Northern catalog at looked at the two types of scalers they had in it and one looked like an air hammer w/the attachment you thoughtfully told us about. I went to the Harbor Freight site and did a search for air tools/hammers and voila, got bigger pictures of the CP stuff, went to the garage and pulled out mine and what a match - identical! To be honest, I hadn't thought about using a scaler until your post (at least for undercoating removal). My wife has relatives in Tallapoosa, we actually live in Marietta. The next time one of us comes the other's way we should try to get together, ooohhhh and aaahhhh over the other's project - I should come to you first - I haven't done anything but tearing out the interior and buying floor pans and patch panels yet. I'm taking welding classes for the MIG welder I bought. Should have had the engine out this weekend but the timing wasn't right for my niece's boyfriend to let me use his workplace after hours I've got all the tools but the availability of the lift and hoist at the shop make it monetarily and physically more comfortable - and I'm starting to realize I'm not a young man anymore... Classes last for about 4 more weeks and then I'll start on a rotisserie. Keep us posted on what your doing and other bright ideas/time/work savers you come up with! Brad

The Streetmaster ought to be OK w/your 600. PRobably won't be an IDEAL match for the cam like a performer, but better than the VJ. As I recall, this one was for 2500-6500 rpm vs 1500-5500 for the dual planes. You will probably loose a little low-end torque, but you have more than you need anyway! After you build the engine, use the Victor Jr. a(assuming you have the cam can carb for it). I will probably use a Victor Jr. for a FI system I wnat to put in.....

Harbor Freight has the head attachment for 14.99 Scaler Attachment This fits the Air chisel made by Chicago Pneumatic, which Harbor also sells, as well as Northern. The replacement blades are $10. It appears as though the air hammer I got w/my Coleman compressor just so happens to be made by Chicago Pneumatic! (it's identical to Harbor Freight and Northern's Air Hammers). Hope I've saved someone some money... Brad

For what it is worth, I believe you would be much happier w/a mandrel bent 2.5". Definitely quieter (less droning) and weigh less. N/A engines DO like a little backpressure as compared to Turbos (which don't like ANY). Supercharged engines act about the same as N/A except are generally happier w/a bit more exhaust. For exhaust discussion purposes, I will lump the N/A and supercharged engines together and turbos in their own world. A lot of people I have talked to and heard from for N/A z's recommend 2.25" to eliminate droning at certain rpms (I have a '75 that has header w/2.5" and it DOES drone - this will be rectified when I swap in the V-8 and hopefully - turbo it), so 2.5" would probably be fine for you. The nice part is - these can be had fairly inexpensively to bolt in from MSA/others, or have it done at a GOOD shop in your area. Of course I am assuming that you are not going to be running super high boost (no intercooler) and nitrous. If this is a weekend toy then you may want to go bigger but I personally wouldn't. I had a 2.5" w/Flowmaster on my '83 ZXT and hated it drone at idle and below 2500 rpm and not much better on the highway. Went to a 3" stainless mandrel bent system w/straight through oval Ultraflow and not only quieter, builds boost faster and has better top end. Remember though that this is a turbo, so you start out quieter. I have a pet theory about the cancellation type mufflers and turbos - I don't think they work as well at quieting, because the exhaust pulses are a bit dampened/stretched, so there is a disparity between the affect on exhaust noise reduction between N/A and turbos that tend to favor them for N/A cars. If there is in fact a scavenging effect to the Flowmaster type mufflers, the dampened pulses from the turbo would tend to support my pet theory, and at least one magazine article I can remember did a muffler comparison on a turbo car and the Flowmaster did not do as well as the same I/O Dynomax of approximately the same size (noise or acceleration). Since I went up from 2.5" to 3", acceleration times comparisons would be unfair. But the overall enjoyment of the car cannot be stated enough. Instead of the hollow droning at all times around town, you get the sound like came out of stock Musclecars when I was a teen (late 60's early 70's) and no,my memory is not shot - I had my 72 351CJ Mustang (BOUGHT IN '74) until a few years ago (when I bought it my girlfriend's mother said it was the first car a boyfriend had that sounded just right - quietly powerful)! OK, I'm off my soapbox now Brad

Definitely have to have the turbine/housing separated if you're even goin to try it - tolerances very close. What do you hope to gain? Can't guesstimate the engineering effects that the larger area uncovered vs. ability of stock actuator to operate. Going to higher levels of boost, it doesn't take much to bleed off enough, unless you go supersize on compressor. If you're goin that far better off w/a separate wastegate.

Sounds like the wiring in your car for the ignition system should be replaced - the wiring between the ignition switch and where you hot wired it.

I can't see the pics above, is this a setting in IE that needs to be set? Thanks, Brad

Several of us seem to be at the same stage - new welders, planning rotisseries, etc. I still have 4 more weeks of welding class before I start doing anything. 1st project - Rotisserie. Good luck to us all!