Brad-ManQ45

www.fonebooth.com is the same place/e brakes as the hybridz store.

Either four studs in the top of the intake manifold go through the base of the carb having nuts that hold the carb onto the intake manifold, or four bolts going through the base of the carb into the intake manifold. My bet is on the former, as I have never personally seen the latter in my 35+ years of hot rodding. You have to disconnect the throttle linkage and fuel line. I rebuilt my first holley w/o directions, simly unbolting parts and cleaning/organizing them as I went. Went back together fine and perfomed excellently! This isn't rocket science, but if you can't look at it and tell what holds it on, you'd better not try to rebuild it yourself.

Take not only my, but anyone else who has a digital dash in their ZX - DON'T use the factory dash/instuments. I have had constant problems with mine. Currently there is an errant ground wire someplace that causes the dash to brighten and dim, and the speedo doesn't work (odometer does!). I'd yank out the damn thing and put a '79 analog (130 mps) in it if I were'nt putting my money into my '75 SBC/Auto conversion.

Correct me if I'm wrong guys - ROSS? It's the setback plates that you won't need (just spacers their thickness). You will need the spacers used with the JTR kit. There isn't any setback on the ZX conversion, as there is 3-4" less room between firewall and front crossmember. I would imagine this means that you can use a regular size harmonic balancer. Look at it this way - you're gonna spend MONEY on getting something EXACTLY the way you want it - $200 is nada. If you want the early body style, best advise is to go with that. I don't have that quandry - I have an '83 ZXT and bought a '75 Z to put a SBC w/auto in. Two reasons - I LOVE the body style, and (in Atlanta, GA area) emissions is no concern if the car is older than '25 years. My '83 will have to be tested until 2008! It's already putting out ~240 hp, but it's a 5 speed and Atl traffic is no fun.

Centrifugal superchargers have next to no mileage penalty when off boost. Roots types incur the biggest penalty as you are constantly driving the mechanism compressing the air depending upon the speed of the engine. Turbo motors will always have a negligable amount of penalty due to the restriction of the exhaust necessary to spin the turbo during normal acceleration. Thisis nowhere ////near the amount of penalty from driving a Roots type Supercharger tho. Just like in a normally aspirated engine, with a turbo setup, you need to pick the ~3K RPM range you want to make your power in. The higher the rpm range, the more "lag" experienced at low speeds, and the more of a RUSH you get when the turbo starts doing its' thing! I think a 302 or 327 with a cap of 6500 rpm would work well for drag racing, cutting down on the low end torque (8.5 - 9/1 compression) allowing you to hook up, then coming on strong. It's what I have envisioned for my '75 anyway... That said,

I have had three turbo cars - an '85 Conquest (Starion) that I had the HKS intercooler setup on running 14 lbs boost, and '87 Starion ESIR that I bumped the boost up on, and my '83 280ZX Turbo. In normal around-town driving, unless you stay close to 2600 - 2800 rpm in the ZX, when you first floor it, it takes a few momentos to get up and go. Thisis after reducing lag with 3" mandrel exhaust & cat, and T3/T4 Turbo. (Assuming you're NOT in 1st gear). I am a fan of instant torque - the better to squirt through traffic. No problem, but just no as responsive - and you can NEVER eliminate ALL of the lag. The Mitsubishi products had MUCH more low end torque (2600cc 4 banger) than the 2800cc 6, so didn't notice it as much. If I were ever to rebuild the ZX engine I'd put in 9 to 1 pistons and a new FI setup and intercooler and probably never complain again, but I've always wanted a V8Z so I'm gonna do that first.

Yeah Soapadope - Keith did mine - all but the one on the left front on the control valve assembly. Apparently, and according to the guys at T3 Automotive here in Atlanta/Marietta/Smyrna, Mine has a wire coming from it that the part Keith sent didn't have. Keith never got back to me about this one, though I did get the monty back I sent in for it. He is a good guy, and so the the people at T3. A little more info for those looking at these engines - the 90-93 heads (esp. 90 & 91) are better from the standpoint that the porting was better - they wound up siamesing some of the runners/ports on later models. The 90 (& I think 91's) had sodium-filled exhaust valves. If you just want 300-340 hp (no nitrous) and need to stay w/Nissan for class rules - go for it and use the early engine but make sure the new cam chain tensioner is used. Keep the stock computer or go with the JWT computer upgrade - don't try to go aftermarket if you want to keep the VVT. Headers on one of these and a supercharger would be SWEET. I can imagine the delicious sound of a good exhaust system with this setup screaming toward 7300 rpm. Hmmm - maaybe I could be tempted to change my mind....Drop the compression a point and a half and have JWT work some magic.... OH NO - I've got it bad - now I can't decide....

For what it is worth guys, the '96 Q45 engine did not have the variable valve (intake) timing, and consequently had less power (area under the curve). Definitely get one that has the 94+ cam guides. Many early models have had this done. I have a '94 Q45a (57K miles) and this year had the Active Suspension rejuvenated - I never knew it could ride this smooth - it wasn't this good when I bought it w/32K on it! The engine is sweet, but for my '75 I'm gonna do the SMC (302/327) and turbo it. It's a matter of $$$. Keep in mind that these engines are EXPENSIVE to work on. Since I'm not gonna do any organized racing I dodn't have to worry about rules (RULES - we don't need no stinking RULES!)

If I lived in the mountains, or high desert like I did in El Paso, the turbo could be a lot of fun - easy to stomp V-8's. If you only want what the stock injectors can do for you just get the '83 Turbo setup w/your hybrid turbo and an intercooler - although that will really start taxing the stock injectors if you run more than 10-12 lbs of boost. You can get a few more hamsters by adding a rising rate fuel pressure regulator, but don't expect miracles here. You're not able to go up in injector size w/o computer change. If you want more: DO NOT - I will repeat DO NOT get the modified 300ZX unit - tuning difficulties will abound. Go SDS and pat yourself on the back. If you like low end torque and hate the rubber-band acceleration of a small turbo motor, go the V-8. I have an '83 Turbo with stock injectors pretty well maxed, and a '75 that I'm going to put a V-8 in. Since I live in Atlanta now I will use the turbo to go to the mountains and the V-8 for fun around town!

I have already ordered it after reading the JTR manual on V-8 swap 'til I can just about quote everything verbatim. I ordered the TPI manual jusat in case it may have something about LT1's (doubtful). As I will be using an Accel/DFI computer system, don't know how much it will help. Thanks for the input.

I've looked but don't think I've seen anyone who has documented LT1 W/AC swap in an early Z.... I have an '82 Turbo that's currently getting the most out of stock injectors w/o rising rate fuel pressure regulator. It's a 5 speed and I loved it as long as I don't have to drive it in traffic much (hip probs). I have '75 280 that I am currently reworking the suspension on, planning an LT1 swap. Drooling over Ross's stuff and will be contacting him next month when I can hide more money from the Mrs.... Will stock 'vette brackets work? Any problems w/harmonic balancer/optical distributor and the front crossmember? TIA for the input... Brad

What do you guys think of going JE and using 6" rods on the 302? I know that the short stroke already gives the 5.7" rods a better rod/stroke ratio, but this would take even MORE side-load off the pistons and let it run more compression to boot. I must say I a seriously considering using a 302/w/auto on my '75 project (I have an '83 Turbo 5-speed and am tired of shifting in Atlanta traffic). You think this is overkill?

Any difficulties putting an LT1 in a 280Z? Concerned w/Distributor/harmonic balancer area and crossmember. Any tips/advice would be appreciated. Brad

Has anyone tried this? I'm not sure I wasnt to go w/Aluminum radiator on daily driver. Suggestions? TIA, Brad

Has anyone purchased the foreign-manufactured fenders frooom Victoria British? Someone told me that you can't get 70-78 fenders from NIssan anymore. If this is true, then I need to know my options - one z-yard here didn't have anything that wasn't in worse shape than I already have....

Those mirrors look like they came off of a 71 -73 Mustang.....

Actually, the blow-off valve is iin the plumbing between the compressor output and the trottle body. On non-metered (speed density) air systems, these can be vented to the atmosphere, but on stock turbo z'z and those using AFM's or AMS, should be vented to before the turbo to keep fuel at the proper proportion.

I had to replace the turbo in the car that I bought w/118000 miles on it at 136000 miles (I change oil religiously every 2500 in all cars - or every 3 months - cheap insurance. Before the turbo always seemed to whine more than the new one - and the new one is vastly better both in spool up and amount of boost and outlet temperature. 10 lbs w/o intercooler for 40000 miles now. Turbonetics set me up w/T3-T4 watercooled, clipped turbine. If they'd had ball bearing I would have done that too, but this was in '94. I feel much better w/the water cooled center section, as to get home I have to drive through a neighborhood slow enough that I don't have to worry about coking when I pull into the drive -I only havet o shut it off. Because I don't have a compressor bypass, the ball bearing route would be great for durability, as well as spooling faster.

Is this somewher around 4500-5000 rpm accelerating HARD in first gear? Does the engine feel like it loses power? You back off and "feather" the throttle in (roll it on instead of pounding it to the floor) and it doesn't happen (and doing this actually gets you there quicker because the engine doesn't "stall")? I'm not sure, but I think we're experiencing surge. Our big compressors are being driven too quickly by the turbine for the amount of air the engine needs/can handle so the compressor "stalls". I would love to hear what the gurus have to say about this..... Brad

What about WHERE the main hoop attaches? One of the chassis shops questioned the legality (NHRA) of having the main hoop tie in to the boxed section behind the seat (stronger) than the floor pan behind the seat (cuts down on seat adjustment). While we're at it, anyone know someone who builds a cage like this, with the rear extensions going to the back of the car, tie-ins to the strut towers and a cross-brace between the towers? Another question - if you went to a 12 point cage, where would the tubing from the front of the cage in the passenger compartment have to go in order to tie into the front and do any good?

I used to have a '72 "Q" code 351 CJ Mustang - a 71 engine. As the car was built in 1971 they could use the '71 engine. Cars built in '72 had to use the "R" code engines. The CJ was the first 351C to combine open chamber heads and 4V Ports. If you have a regular 351C (w/11:1 C/R), then I believe someone makes a plate that will bolt into the intake to reduce the size of the ports for street use. I wouldn't stroke it, and I wouldn't use the 400 block - too heavy. I had a 3.25 rear gear, Torker Intake and a 780 Holley w/headers on mine and it did not lack for low end torque and would scream up top. Most would say to use a 3.91 aor 4.11 rear gear w/ the torker but honestly, I had more than enough down low on a 3400 lb car. If you are going to use a double pumper, don't go any bigger than a 700 any more and you will lose area under the power curve. The CJ used the same profile cam that the 428CJ used - and to good effect - the duration let it live well on pump gas. If going to strok use the 351W block, 400 crank, custom pistons and LONG RODS. This will reduce tendancy to detonate w/higher compression. Remember that if you use aluminum heads (from FM), you can get another .5 point in compression w/o detonation.

Quaife makes these for the R180 and R200, abit pricey - but not as much as the NIssan parts - and they'll LAST. Nissan - R180 (240-280Z) 115mm ID ring gear $1,395.00 Nissan - R200 (280-300Z) fits both 10mm and 12mm ring gear bolts $1,395.00 http://www.quaifeamerica.com/

Accelerator pump shot is what I would look at. It sounds like you're using all of it before the engine gets going. Don't know about Performer (isn't this like a Carter?), but Holley's allowed you to change the pump cam/reposition the cam to deliver les/more and affect the timing during the stroke (where the highest volume delivered occurrs in relation to accelerator pedal travel. If I had to guess, I would think that you could slow down the initial delivery and make it last longer. Hope this helps