Brad-ManQ45

The ZX Daytona kit can be found at: Reaction Research I have been eyeing the GTO kit but will only do that after everything else that can be done IS - if then

While we're at it, usually the sensors for traction control work for the ABS system also.... 'nuff said? Brad

Spreadbores have the same amount of air flowing through the smaller primaries at low rpms, therefore have a higher amount of velocity and fuel atomization. Unless you are turning the vacuum secondary spring on the 750, the spring that comes stock will probably never fully open. I am of the opinion you are better off with a smaller carb w/all barrels the same size (on a single plane intake) and use the vac secondary spring that will open the secondaries fully at redline, that just bolting on bigger carb w/vacuum secondaries that may not fully open. I believe the fuel distribution will be more even, and the fact that you are utilizing ALL of the carb at high rpm (with smaller bores on all barrels) vs only a percentage of the secondaries on a bigger carb (with larger primaries ALL the time - there goes the fuel mixture velocity). I believe that given a little visualization, almost anyone can imagine the difference in airflow patterns between primaries and secondaries on a spreadbore, and a little more thought and visualization should bring the concept of using ALL of a smaller carb as being better than only PART of a larger carb. The larger carb will lose a degree of crispness due to the larger primary bores over the slightly smaller carb ALL the time, and you'll never fully utilize the secondaries. You simply wind up with more area under the curve with a properly sized carb/manifold combination. Dual plane manifolds tend toward the same distribution problems, but also usually have a better low end signal to cover up the effects of a larger carb. I think a lot of people go too big on carbs on a single plane intake when 'piecing' a project together. Go with what is documented in the real world as working well - and if you have a single plane intake, you may be surprised at how low you can go in carb size! All of this is JMHO, mind you....

Thanks for your responses guys - If only I could type in the wee hours I'd consider this question a success.... I too, have seen the one in JC Whitney and thought it a pretty good deal. I guess I need to scope out the welding supply situation around me for the need to buy/rent tanks.... Thanks again!

I will be purchasing a MIG welder soon. I will be fabricating a rotisserie, welding in a cage, floor pans and qtr panel and fender patch panels. Could any of you with experience recommend which ones to look for for this? I don't want to go overboard on something I won't need (metal thickness capability). I have already started checking into some welding classes at an area tech school....

I would suspect that since you are going to run a single plane manifold, that you will want all barrels to be the same size for best fuel distribution at high rpm. This would tend to eliminate the Q-Jet and one of the Holley 750/780 vac secondary's - the 3310 is the square-bore one (non-emissions). Of course, w/vacuum secondaries there is the chance that they won't be fully open even at redline - even on a 350. I seem to recall that the hot DP for the 351C Ford engine was the 700 DP - picked up a lot under the curve and sacrificed NO top end compared to the 750. I think the choice of a 650 vac would be close to ideal for a 327 - particularly if the barrels are all the same size, because the secondaries would probably be all the way open at redline. I would also suspect this could be the start of an interesting thread in it's own right.... Brad

If you are going to drive it on the street or any autocross/roadrace activity, don't weld it. Spend the bucks on a Quaife.... JMHO Brad

In the absence of light, Black radiates heat better. Your best bet in reducing underhood heat is to ceramic coat the exhaust manifold/headers (inside & out- downpipe(s) too). Paint your block whatever you want - any heat kept in will be radiated from the radiator, the air going into the radiator will be blowing through the engine compartment - no gain to be had. I personally like the lighter color engine and engine compartments - easier to see leaks and light up in case you have to work on them on the side of the road at night/in a shop. JMHO..... Brad

Why would you want to be hauling around the extra weight of those water jackets???????

Glad it worked out! I will be doing one of these swaps myself if I ever learn to weld well enough to replace a qtr panel and patch the fenders and remove the driprails. Then it will be paint, wiring, brake/fuel lines, interior and FINALLY engine.... I'm just a glutton for punishment - I've always wanted to do a ground-up - always done engines, suspensions, brakes, bodywork (no welding) on the cars I've had in the past, and helped by brother restore a '66 Datsun 1600 (Short Windshield). I'm gonna experience fun, pain, anxiety over every decision, but most of all SATISFACTION - especially the first time I crank it up!

Chevrolet first used fuel injection (in production) on the '57 Chevy and Corvettes. Volkswagon had fuel injection on the TypeIII engines (Squareback and Fastbacks) in 1970 for sure - I had one. Fuel injection has been around a LONG time and Chevrolet wasn't the one to develop it.

The carb you have should be just fine on a 350. Chevrolet used a 780 on the Z28 (302). I had a Holley 780 on my 351 CJ Mustang before going to a 700 double pumper. Hd tried a 600 to start but like the 780 MUCH better up top. I had all the springs and cams for the accelerator pump at one time...this was back in '70's and 80's - wish I'd never sold that car.... Something is Definitely wrong with the carb if the secondaries don't open.

Thanks for the info - interesting about the tranny, as I'm thinking 4l80E for the turbo v8... Brad

Looks soooooo sweet. Very sanitary. You're and artist man - I hope I can get my engine room looking HALF as good.

'83 factory service manual states standard 142 lbs at 350 rpm, 100 minimum. For the normally aspirated engine, 171 and 128 respectively. Yes- I bought the Service manual in 1990 when I bought the ZXT! Saved my bacon (money) a few times and glad of the purchase.

I am definitely interested, but haven't made the decision on single or dual. One way to minimize lag is to get a divided turbine housing and do some trick work with the exhaust to supply each side w/even exhaust pulses. I am going turbo because I want the car quiet (relatively) so I don't beat my ears to death every day. Ok - that's only HALF the truth - I also want to shame some of the 'vettes and Vipers running around Atlanta

I believe NHRA REQUIRES tubing, not pipe. S&W specifically states tubing on their website. AutoPower makes some rollbars and cages (bolt-in) that ARE NOT leagal for NHRA (but ARE for SCCA). These are made of pipe. Even if they were welded in they wouldn't be legal for NHRA. If I am mistaken I hope to be corrected... Brad

I believe in my reading about the LT1 engine that the EGR is an integral part of the air/fuel/timing mix that allows a signigicant improvement in gas mileage by allowing leaner A/F ratio and more spark timing for low speed operation. Of course, most of us don't have much concern about gas mileage, or we'd keep the original engine, but if I were not going to do much in the way of modifying the engine for more power (just slap in the LT1 w/stock management and call it quits) I'd try to keep the EGR... Brad

I have to go w/the Challenger. Even though I've had a '73 Javelin and a '72 Mustang 351CJ, the Challenger has to be the best looking pony car ever made. Wish I'd bought one of those instead...

One place to look at what has been done on a production vehicle, if I remember correctly is the Ferarri 360 Modena. If I remember correctly (again) there was a small raised area in the center of the front air dam tunneling back to an enlarged area (providing a low pressure area under the front for downforce there), then making its way back to the rear diffuser (pproviding downforce in the rear. I believe I saw all of this in a Road & Track magazine a cople of years ago. This would tend to modify somewhat the flat bottom theory, which addmittedly is better than nothing if rake is provided, but then the windshield is at a higher angle of attack, providing more drag, and possibly leading to buckling/collapsing. Anyone else recall seeing the design I'm talking about? I of course have eliminated a lot of stuff that they did on the Modena, but another trick was to have oval/elliptical susension arms that had to go through the tunnels to get to the wheels etc. It was interesting reading at the time - maybe I can scare the article up - if I can get past the scary thought of searching through all the boxes from the move..... Brad

No such luck w/ other T5's - they have different input shafts. The ratios on the SVO Mustang are the same, but once again, input shats different. Find a wrecked ZXT 5-speed and get the transission from. Thi sis the only option.

Veeerrrryyyyy Nice ZR8ED! Hope mine looks as nice when finished...

Keep the rods the same (no reason not to - same pin height) and design the smaller diameter pistons to weigh the same as the larger diameter 350 pistons and you save money by not remachining/designing the hardest part - the crank. This one instance is extremely likely....

Is it STEELMAN or GOATMAN?

Actually larger turbos at the same boost produce LESS heat...the compressor doesn't have to work as hard.