akeboshi
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Posts posted by akeboshi
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Nothing new today really, just attempted to re-upholster my seats but it didnt go too well. I gave it to a shop to do. $360 for the labor plus 150 for the parts equals $510 for the seats. I dont know if thats good or bad but i really thought i could do it cheaper. Oh well, we live and learn.
Tomorrow i start working on the body. My goal is to have the fuel tank drained and dropped and the car up on the rotisserie. Steep goals for the time I have to work on it. ill try to make it happen though!
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bought the rmr drill bit. im gonna try to make some of my money back doing fuel rails. nothing fancy just some blanks with holes drilled out for 14mm bits. that will be later though.
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So day 3 was laborious indeed.
I was supposed to finish stripping the rest of the sound deadening material out but i saw some disturbing pictures of another members car after he removed his front fenders and I thought i would find the same thing. It tunrs out that it was rusty under mine but not unsalvageable.
I am now a little worried about the strength of my rocker panels. They both save a little cancer at each end of them and im afraid that even with new patches they will not be as strong. We will see though.
After I pulled the whole front end of the car off and the front subframe i proceeded to do the same for the rear subframe. I was going to drain the fuel tank and drop it as well but I had nothing to drain the fuel into. Ill find a big pan to drain it on Wednesday when i can work on it some more.
When I drain the fueal and drop the tank on Wednesday Ill finish cleaning up the interior of the car (removing sound aterial and such) and work on patching up the rust I have found. shouldnt be too hard I imagine. I should have the frame clean and mounted on the rotisserie come the weekend so that i can start frame rail repair. YAY!
With all the work on the body still needing to be done Ill have to find time to install the coilovers and build the motor as it will be out of the machine shop soon. the guy works pretty fast. I dropped the block off yesterday and he already had it bored and almost finished with the honing.
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Ok here goes....
I was wondering how to go about modifying my intake manifold to accept 14mm o-ring style injectors. the injectors in question are from a 07 magnum 6.1 hemi. I saw the thread that braap made on his manifold but it didnt go into how he did it. i tried to get a hold of him and pallnet but neither are responding. right now im wavering between doing the modification with the rmr drill bit http://www.rossmachineracing.com/injectortool.html or just getting the 75 benz injectors that will just drop in. i want to mod but am worried about getting the angle right on the manifold. could use some inputs!
marcus
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Ok, so i just finished the second day of the build. Everything went well i suppose. just lots of work to be done.
First thing i did was disassemble the rest of the engine so i could drop it off at the machine shop. no surprises found.
Then i pulled the tranny, easy stuff. I proceeded to remove all of the wiring from the car. it needs to be gone though pretty badly though. it was easier to pull out than i thought it would be. After that i started chipping away at the sound deadening looking for rust. i was lucky so far as i finished the passenger side and only found surface rust. it was raining all day so i decided to play in the garage with the dash. i have my work cut out for me on the dash.
Tomorrow Ill try to finish removing the sound deadening and try to get the suspension stripped and the frame up on blocks.
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im sooooo jealous of the condition of your car!!!! lol
that was a great find. cool project, looking forward to seeing it finished up.
marcus
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hello,
I recently decided that i had enough of the ever ending searching for crap parts that dont quench my thirst for performance/coolness/speed, so I finally started collecting parts that i have been drooling over for the better part of two and a half years. i started by buying a turbo exhaust manifold and that lit the fire i needed to start my project. I thought that when i built the n/a flattop/big cam motor i would be satisfied but I wasnt. That and the fact that I have so much drivetrain slop that it rendered the car undriveable at high gear cruising speed pushed me to where I am now.
I will be using this car as a daily driver with the occasional 3 hour drive up to willow springs to get my drift on and as such the theme of the car is gonna be catered towards that.
For suspension I will be sectioning my struts and installing the 3T ground control coilovers and illumian shocks as well as the full energy suspension bushing kit from msa and ill probably throw in some homemade strut braces for good measure.
As far as engine mods I will be running an N/A-T with n42 block/ n42 head/ n42 intake with pallnet fuel rail, diyautotune's SX Performance FPR, walbro gsl392 fuel pump, stock t3 turbo with MSA downpipe and my homemade BANR Performance exhaust (straight 2.5 inch piping all the way back!) i havent desided how much boost ill be running yet but i will be running E85 and i will find out what ill be using for boost control when the wife brings it back from japan (up garage baby!)i also bought an ebay intercooler and piping to intercool this beast. It will all be managed by MS2 with EDIS 6 and a zietronix wideband.
I will be putting the car on a rotisserie to fix the frame rails and aslo to clean the bottom of the car and to fix few rust spots i have. i plan on shaving the rear bumper area (this in my opinion is what makes the s30 so sexy) and if i feel like it at the end of the build get the MSA front airdam and bumper.
Interior will be modest as it was all mostly destroyed by the PO so i just sprung for some new carpet, seat upholstery and i will refurbish the rest of what i have which isnt much. as far as wheels, i havent even thought about it and im having a hard time deciding on fuel injectors. (have the barbed rail and 14mm oring injectors from an SRT8 Magnum that i was gonna use but they dont fit the intake manifold unfortunately....
So without further adieu,
The first day I spent pulling out the engine. my plan was to have the engine torn completely down before the workshop closed for the day but i only got as far as head removal.
engine just pulled, only took 1 1/2 hours!
pic of the soon to be not ugly engine bay. im thinking crinkle spray paint black?
cylinder head after about 100-200 miles (dont know for sure, no dash)
pic of the block
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Thanks, is that in the passenger kick panel area? It died on me again today and I hit the relays in that area and it started. Today it acted like it starved for fuel, so I was thinking maybe a fuel pump relay
naw,
the voltage regulator is in the engine compartment in a metal cover behind the fusible links on the passenger side. i woul also check the factory splices where the wires split for the fusible links as well. mine completeley rusted away and i had no power. it was about a year after my random start problem.
marcus
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more pics please! im getting ready to do the exact same thing you are doing now tomorrow actually! lol and im interested in how you are planning to do your rotisseire. where do you plan on mounting them? i was planning on just using two engine stands with some square tubing welded to the stands and bolt the car to the tubing. easy and cheap but im now looking for ideas and would love input. i plan on using the car for the occasional drift day and daily driver. got almost all of the parts gathered or at least ordered and will be dropping the head and block off at the machine shop tomorrow. ms2 turbo power!
marcus
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Thanks!
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Hello,
Im sorry if this has been asked before but I couldnt find an answer.
will a 240z dash fit in a 77 280z? Also will the center console fit? there are some great deals on 240 interior in my area right now and I have been trying to bring my own tattered dash back from the dead to no avail. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
marcus
p.s.
Got my build thread coming up soon!
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putting the lowering springs in backwards, and not grounding the engine sensors to pin 19 on the ms2 harness.
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i had a similar problem, turns out it was my external voltage regulator.
marcus
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thanks man, i just plugged them all in to see how it looked but thanks for doing my homework for me!
marcus
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i know im not answering your question but why not just run the factory 02 sensor and weld another bung on the exhaust for your wideband and use it by itself. is there a specific purpose for wanting to do what you described? im curious. if it were me id just wire the narrowband output to the factory o2 harness wire and keep an eye on the afr. then you would know if you need to remove the pullup resistor. btw do you have scematics of the ciruits inside the ecu? i would love to see those! good luck
marcus
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good to see it fixed.
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i just bought a new car that had this older looking blitz bov and i was wondering if there was ever a problem of people making knockoff like what happened with the greddy rs valves. i have a greddy knockoff and it looks the part. i havent heard of any blitz of hks knockoffs though and was just wondering if i had the real deal, im gonna be putting it on my turbo l28 buildup soon.
marcus
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i just got a new car and they have rims i have never seen before. no biggie but the center caps are missing and i wanna get new ones. can anyone help me id these?
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ive been driving mine without an iac since i installed ms. ive just been tuning idle with the idle stop screw. just to give you a backround on my preference for car creature comfort, i dont have or need interior gauges or dash, no a/c radio, anything and i can bear without all that stuff but honestly not having an iac f@%king sucks. im ALWAYS turing the idle stop as i can never get it right. its close enough but very annoying. doesnt want to hold idle till its warm then it idles too hight blah blah..... anyways i think if you can afford it you should get an iac setup. im about to add it to my ride after i install edis which is soon.
marcus
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hello,
ive been slowly gathering all the components to convert my ms2 l28 to ford edis distributorless ignition. i just wanted to share my pics with you all regarding my vr mount and pulley and to give the proper thank yous to the people here that i got my ideas from. first of all brapp for his idea of turning down the pulley on a lathe and pressing on the ford code wheel, it was by far the cheapest (and in my opinion smartest)way to mount the code wheel. also to the horny z guy, i kind of copied his idea for mounting the stock coil (although i wanted to buy it from him anyways! lol everybody is busy, i understand) and finally to theramz for his idea to mount the vr sensor although i simplified it somewhat. without further adieu the pics!
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more pics plz! im very interested in this swap. its prolly what i will swap into mine eventually when i blow up the turbo motor im getting ready to build. you should do me a favor and megasquirt it with edis and make edis sensor mounts for me! lol im a megasquirt junkie
marcus
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i did the exact same thing with the dizzy shaft as well even though i made sure to install it right when i rebulit the engine. as for the sensor i ghettorigged it by cutting off the ears on the old tps and drilling holes and bolting them on the new tps. looks bad, works good.
marcus
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@ jaredroot
I think it was worth it to megasquirt a stock l28 engine. Mine was on th fritz and I did an ms 2 conversion. It's fantastic. Really all you need is a ms2 unit, air temp sensor and a tps from a 240sx, lock out your dizzy and wire up to stock harness unless you don't wanna use harness then get the diyautotune harness. A wideband o2 is mandatory as well. I did my kit complete with wiring harness for about 700$. Considering the cheapest aftermarket ems is around 900 for JUST the ecu I find megasquirt to be a steal. It should be illegal because of how awesome it is! If you have any questions just ask. Ms forums are very supportive.
Marcus
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hello,
so the first l28 engine i rebuilt for the z was also the first motor i have ever rebuilt. to make it short i didnt do the break in properly so the rings didnt seat right and i wiped my cam also. it currently runs but i would like to rebuild another one to better quality so i know that it will last.
so i buy a used engine from craigslist and the guy says he pulled it after he ran it. it looked clean and he had a new turbo motor sitting in his bay so i buy it. i was debating whether to just run it or tear it down for a rebuild. im glad i decided to tear it down cuz it was f@#cked up. every cam lobe was ground down taking the rockers with them in the process and the cam tensioner was in the oil pan along with chain guide rubber and teeth from the cam sprocket and sealant sucked against the pickup. these were not the only surprises i found.
there were pistons stamped 050 on them. they measured roughly 86.5mm so im assuming the stamp means .05mm over.
the bigger surprise was the valvetrain was shimmed up. i took measurements on all the shims and they are as such
cam bearing shim=.018 and there were two of them
inner valve spring shim=.038
outer valve spring shim=.038lash pad=.117 (i thought these were supposed to be .120 stock?)
so my question is how can i tell how much they have taken off of the head? i will cc the chambers and pistons soon to calculate c/r but until then i would like to hear input.
also another question (its stupid but ill ask it anyways) would it be ok to sandblast the gasket surfaces of the head and block and not machine them? just something i have been wondering.
one more question is how do i know how much bigger lash pad to get to center my valvetrain back up. i noticed it was alittle off center. not much but i would like to get it back centered again.
thanks for the support,
marcus
p.s. guess that piston!
DIYAutoTune.com now has a YouTube channel
in MegaSquirt
Posted · Edited by akeboshi
DO IT!