akeboshi

Hello, Its been quite a while since I have posted on the Hybrid Z forum but I thought someone from this forum might find this post interesting or useful. My roots started with Datsuns so I definitely have a soft spot for this place. Anyways, I have been working on what i think to be the first 302/351 to z32 trans adapter. I wasn't able to find any info on it anywhere but I have a feeling it could be popular. I started with an adapter i found on craigslist that allows one to bolt a small block Ford T-5 to a Ford 2.3L which I can only assume is popular with the turbo SVO guys. I believe its from Stinger Performance or a similar company. The reason I chose it was because it already had the right pattern for the block, it was thinner, and of course it was a super cheap craigslist deal. I then made a bushing to center the input shaft to the crank on the lathe. I separated the bell housing to make things easier to handle and placed the adapter on the block. I then tossed the bell and the rest of the trans onto the block making sure the pilot bushing went into the crank, centered the trans and used transfer punches to get the holes started. I have to wait until I get back home to finish it up but my real problem is finding the right flywheel. I can't find any info on the actual diameter of the z32 flywheel. I also saw that there is a 6 hole version as well as an 8 hole version. I might be able to use a Ford 2.3L flywheel because i read that the 2.3L will bolt on to the SBF crank. Maybe if I get lucky the 2.3 will be slightly larger than the z32 flywheel and it will be a matter of turning it down and welding the z32 ring gear on. If anybody can point me in the right direction in this matter it would definitely help.

I really wish I could help you with your edis problem but as far as compression goes 115 is not good even for a turbo motor. 150 on the other hand sounds better but like you said, the motor hasn't been broken in yet. What ou really want to look for in this situation more than high compression numbers are consistent numbers. My Na build was at 90 psi after the first 100 miles getting higher eventually to 140. You have your plugs on the right cylinders though.

Which f body? Aren't there like 4 generations? I'm very interested in this as it would make my fuel problems easier to deal with.

Don't worry fellas, I posted on his video in Japanese. Hopefully he will reply. If he's close to the Tokyo / Yokohama area I might try to go check it out in person. I would LOVE to get ahold of a cnc program for l engine heads. I could probably have a buddy run the program for me!

Is that the end for the cam sprocket? If not it should be fine. You should be able to pull the dowel out though.

Take a pic of the backside of the last pic.

It would be cheaper (down in socal anyways) to just go to the junkyard and ****** another cam and corresponding lobes (keep them in order this time) shouldnt cost more than 30 bux at a picka and pull.

If they look anything like the VH41 manifolds (what I heard anyways) they should fit great. If you want to be sure ask member fuzzydicerule.He just finished an ls1 swap and for some reason he made his own so maybe not.

Just wanted to update this thread so that others who may think they have similar problems can use this info. Turns out the head gasket was starting to go out. It was like that from the previous owner. After the new headgasket it was tuned and dynoed in at 199rwhp. Dont know what the torque was though.

If you are not using the stock oil gauge you can remove the oil pressure sending unit and thread the new mechanical fitting into that spot. If you have an oil cooler you can go from an unused fitting there as well.

If you are not using the stock oil gauge you can remove the oil pressure sending unit and thread the new mechanical fitting into that spot. If you have an oil cooler you can go from an unused fitting there as well.

OK, Well it sounds like you know what you want to do despite the input so just do it already. Take some pics too please.

Well, its finished. I machined the turbine housing myself and radiused it the best I could on the lathe, but ultimately I had to massage the radius with a dremel as it barely scraped in that area and left a bit of machinist dye in the area of the blades. Spins freely without noise now so it SHOULD work. (Crosses fingers) So a T04E-50 trim turbo with a t04E exhaust wheel in a .63 a/r exhaust housing should be able to break 400 hp with a spoolup by 3000 rpm eh?

I have one that was sand blasted. Name a price you want to pay with shipping and its yours. I'm in 91910. Marcus

Boost leak dude.

eff that. For 300 you can get a 15 gallon cell that WILL fit with inlets and outlets that are needed for efi as well as a surge tank with all the fittings and a good fuel pump. If you are willing to spend that much on a fuel tank setup, I would personally look into an internal pump cell. Only reason I went with my 20 gallon tank is I was able to get it for $100. vs 200 to clean my stock tank. Im cheap like that.

I just looked. It would be tight but it should fit. It doesn't have a sump does it?

How many gallons is it? I stuffed a 20 gallon tank from jegs under my 260z.

If you haven't spent money on the machines ones, I have a set I just machined from the flat 87 brackets. Give me a price and they are yours.

Glad to help. Hope the install goes well.

I dont think a 240sx tps will work with the stock ecu. It only has two contactors instead of the three that are in the z tps, unless there are only two inside the zxt tps then an automatic tps from a 240sx will work for sure with the stock connector.

I have a damper with an edis wheel on it that you can have, as well as a haggard ass coilpack bracket. name a price and you can have it. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/102458-my-edis-setup/

To buy a new flywheel and clutch kit from napa. The ones from a Nissan hard body truck bolts straight on. The truck that had the ka engine. The flywheel is cheap, like 50 bucks and the cheapest clutch kit comes with an Exedy clutch. Look up "white bunny special"

Exhaust 1 sound too raspy and wimpy. Exhaust 2 is right on the money though! sounds beast. If you are worried about hearing loss there is a miraculous product made specifically for loud environments, its call foam earplug inserts and they block up to 25 decibels!!! Try it!!! http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0030HUE9C/ref=asc_df_B0030HUE9C2194055?smid=A13TITLYH5KSUI&tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=asn&creative=395105&creativeASIN=B0030HUE9C&hvpos=1o3&hvexid=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=11594359181245474061&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=

I used instructions from 3T for my install. Use the dirtys30 post and you will be fine. Sounds like you know what what strut cartrdges you want to use and they sound ok to me. You pretty much know what all you need as far as parts as well also. Go for it dude. I personally would go with the longer threaded sleeves and 10 inch springs. That should get you low enough without worrying about bottoming the stuts out. 275s in the back will be too hard most likely and probably too much for the kybs to handle as well. I have 225s in front and 250s in back and she rides like a tank. I think I would try 200/225 first. If you order from 3T you can play around with spring rates and heights. Just ship them back and they will send you another set. Good luck!