RPMS

maybe i've just been living right, but I didn't have that much of a problem with the precision kit, after I adjusted the ... what the heck do you call it? The piece of metal that surrounds the door glass. The window channel, maybe? I moved it out just a bit and lubricated all the latches, and everything now seals well and closes easily. Before I adjusted it, it did take a bit of a slam, but now everything's happy.

When I first posted this, I didn't realize that folks would be adding to it for the next two years... $50 for 100 superbright LED's seems pretty reasonable. Considering that pre-made round clusters go for aobut $30 a pop, that's dirt cheap. Well worth thinking about...

Damn... You can't beat THAT price! I think you should be happy with the Miata seats. I've got the same 300ZX seats that Slownrusty has, and they only fit with a good deal of, *ahem* "clearancing" with a large hammer. I'm only 6'0, and they're still too close to the pedals for comfort. Good luck putting your new seats in - I'm sure you'll enjoy them!

I think the way the law is written, if you're going to manufacture and sell a car to the public you've got to have bumpers on it, but after that it's up to the state whether you're required to KEEP the bumper on the car. In Texas, inspectors and cops could care less whether or not you have one.

Does the poodle come with it?

My sister finally kicked the tenants out of her rental property, and they left a bunch of crap behind. Among the piles of miscellaneous car parts was a set of 64cc camel hump heads! I don't know anything about the condition, except that they're rusty. My question is this: I've got a rebuilt 1996 350 that I'm getting ready to install. What are the ramifications of putting 64cc heads onto a mild motor like this that was originally designed for fuel injection? I know the intake manifold will have to change, but would there be any performance gains to be had? I also found a bare block, and the casting number indicates that it's either a 302, 327, or 350 from 1968. (3914678) This weekend I'm going to have to go back out there and spend some time digging deeper in that pile of rubble. Who knows what I'll find!

Maybe I'm bucking the trend, but I like the aftermarket wheels better. They keep the lines of the car super clean, something you normally don't see on a 944 of that age.

Now THAT is what the new Z SHOULD have looked like! Modern engineering (flush glass, door handles, etc.) combined with vintage style (sugar scoop lights, bumpers, etc.) VERY nice! Thanks for posting that.

my friend says Silsbee is about two hours northeast of Houston. Mapquest says it's north of the intersection of highways 69 and 96. My computer here at work won't let me zoom out to tell me anything more specific. Sounds like you're at the same stage in your swap as I am. I've got most of the parts, I'm just waiting for a few more bucks to roll in before I can do the conversion. I'm stoked!!!!

Anyone live near enough to Silsbee to check out a car for a friend? I'm asking for an act of charity here, since I don't think he can afford to pay anything. Anybody? Anybody??

I can imagine the owner of that Camaro going to bed tonight, and not being able to sleep with the excitement of what's waiting for him in the garage. Then he finally gives up, jumps out of bed, and runs into the garage and stares at his car for hours on end, blissfully pleased at how it turned out. To each his own, I guess.

I was partnered for five years to a guy who had me by my emotional short hairs. I know you're not gay Scotty, but the tactics our partners used was just the same. The relationship wasn't great, but I thought staying with him was better than being alone, so I stuck it out. Every 6-8 months or so, he would bitch and moan and pick a fight, then say that we should just end the relationship. He would try to break us up, and I would be the sensible one and patch things up. I always felt we were on the teetering edge of breaking up, and it caused a lot of stress. As it turns out, he was just trying to get me to display my commitment to him. The last time, when he suggested we end things and I said, "Well, okay," he completely broke down. Sobbing, pleading, begging to try "one more time". Man, was that ugly! But by that point I realized that his behavior wasn't going to change at any point in the near future, and he and I were basically incompatible so I called it quits and found someone who treats me RIGHT. Trust me, life's much better now that I know I'm with someone who is committed to our relationship. The long and short of what I'm telling you, Scotty, is this. Don't let yourself be her emotional punching bag. If she threatens to call it off, then call her bluff. If she's serious, then she (and you) wouldn't ever have be happy in y'alls relationship anyway, and you both need to find new, more compatible partners. If she's bluffing, she'll come back to you with tears in her eyes and reconciliation in her heart. At that point it's up to you - you either take her back with the understanding that she will never threaten separation again, or you tell her that you need to go your separate ways. Whatever you do, make a decision and stick to it. Any waffling in your position will put her back in a position of power that she is apparently not responsible enough to handle. My unasked for opinion? If you can't be the forceful Daddy that she needs and take command of the relationship, find someone else to be with who isn't into emotional blackmail and who will treat you like a valuable human being. Ignoring you for two hours while she dances the night away is nothing short of inconsiderate, and you need someone who is considerate of your feelings! If she doesn't know you well enough after four years that she'll know you don't like to be left alone like that, then she either isn't paying attention or she enjoys ticking you off, neither of which you deserve! I think you might want to consider finding someone who this kind of stuff (especially the threats to leave you) doesn't happen with. Just my .02, take 'em for what they're worth, friend.

The 280 tach has a slightly lower redline, and the ammeter was replaced with a voltmeter. Also, the tach for the 240 uses an induction loop to give the tachometer a signal, whereas the 280 uses a wire that runs straight to the coil. (which shouldn't affect anything, that I can see...)

Geez, I guess nobody else on this list has ever been poor. PAWN SHOP! I've bought almost all of my tools at pawn shops over the years, and I've probably spent 10 cents on the dollar or less. Find the nearest store, and get your hands dirty digging around in the bins of sockets and wrenches until you find the following: Wrenches: 10, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, and 17 Sockets - 1/4" drive: 6,8,10mm 3/8" drive: 12,13,14,15,16,17,20 and 22mm Get a 4" long extention for both the 1/4" and 3/8" wrench, if you can. Dump the whole lot on the counter and offer them a twenty dollar bill. Chances are, they'll take it. Don't skimp on your ratchet handles if you can afford to get decent ones. Personally, I prefer smooth, round handles that I can generate some torque with. Square handles just plain hurt, and knurled handles trap grease (turning simple tasks into "gojo moments"), although they're easier to use if you've got grease all over your hands. Craftsman, Husky, or (surprise!) Harbor Freight have excellent quality. If you buy a cheap ratchet, you'll regret it the instant you break the plastic prawls off inside so that it spins around without doing anything. If you can only afford one set of sockets, buy six sided ones. They have far less tendency to round off old fasteners than 12-pointed sockets do. And buy a second cheap 13, 14, and 15mm wrenches to use as backing wrenches. I've had lots of different brands of tools in the past few decades, and I'm happy to say that as far as hand tools are concerned, Husky quality BEATS Craftsman in many cases. It used to be different, but lately Craftsman seems to be using a different chrome plating process, and it has an annoying tendency to flake off. I've also had several new Craftsman sockets split, whereas my Huskys are still going strong. Older craftsman tools are very good. Other brands to look for are Mac, SK-Tool, and Thorsen. These all have lifetime warranties, and the dealers don't give a fig where you bought them from. Anything made in America is usually better than anything made in Taiwan. Ignore any moron that tells you you'll go sterile if you don't buy Snap-On. They're good tools, but hopelessly overpriced. Remember that tools don't need to be pretty or expensive to get the job done. Buying used tools (if they're high quality) puts money away for things you can't buy second hand.

I had something funny happen to me about a week ago while driving home from work in my BMW 535i. It was about 10:30pm, and the freeway traffic was sparse. A kid in an early 80's BMW 320i (4 cylinder, automatic) with a huge wing and a fart can comes storming up beside me and starts speeding up and slowing down. After about five miles of this, I got tired of him and just calmly pressed the accelerator to the floor and my quiet, 4-door sedan began gaining speed. He thought the race was on and started making lots of noise, but quickly gave up when I was about five car lengths ahead. I considered downshifting to third and leaving him in the dust, but beating him so badly just by opening the throttle was just plain embarassing. It was funny, but not what I'd call satisfying. Rather like beating up an innocent little girl scout and stealing her cookies.

Louvers are VERY old school on this car, as are the vinyl "240Z" stripe on the lower doorsills. For a modern touch, do the logo stripe in clear pearl instead of vinyl. Chrome mirrors are definitely old school, as are chrome bumpers. I wouldn't shave the marker lights or door handles, but I might update them with newer units. LED lights in the original style taillights are a good combo trick. I like the original shape of the Z not to want to screw with it much. I think if you do too much to it with wings and spoilers, you run the risk of ruining the lines. Keep us abreast of your plans!

Man, that engine is a jewel! Very nice!!!!

No, it would be crazy to leave the 4-banger in there.

Naw, she's not quite perfect. Where's the trust fund certificate?

Aluminum's DEFINITELY the way to go. ABS just looks so... chunky. Look at attachment method, too. Some louvers drill into the metal (!!!) while others attach to a piece wedged between the glass and the weatherstripping. I prefer not to drill into metal whenever I can avoid it.

As soon as you described it, I knew EXACTLY which car you were talking about. I don't know why, but that car makes me absolutely DROOL!

Man, you must be living right! What I learned from you (aside from the necessity of checking the oil regularly) was to plug that bypass hole!

Joe, I think I've figured out why your car loves to punish you.

I'm replacing it with the longer one so I can use a late model neutral safety switch on the transmission body. Your explaination of the removal process squares with what the guy at the transmission shop told me this afternoon. It's good to have your viewpoint on things to clarify things. You're very kind to offer me a shifter shaft, but I just ordered one from the Chevy dealer four hours ago! Oh well, I guess I needed the seal that comes with it anyway - this was an expensive way to get one! Thanks again. Your explaination was a BIG help!

Thanks for the info, guys. Y'all were a big help! It's good to know there's a place I can go to get all my questions answered like this.