Gavin

I'd rather use the Unix software on the iPhone (or the next gen iPod, same thing). That would be about as easy and more portable/practical/versatile. Also, the Mac Mini is nearly the exact size as a standard stereo head unit, and that has bean done numerous times. Plus that runs Windows natively so you could use MegaTune. Plus both of those will work consistantly (not a big PC fan). Edit- Now that I think about it, the iPhone idea wouldnt be so easy. You could use a larger display with it, since it has RCA out, but the lack of USB would be a problem (for starters). I had confused it a bit with the specs of future interfaces which will be more functional. I say someone should write some Newton Message Pad software. That would be awesome.

Doesnt sound right to me. My max dwell is only 2.6. - But than I see you have a much different coil than mine...

You will need a tach signal, turbo or not. Do you know if your optical trigger is in your dizzy or off of the crank (Pre or post 82 zx)? I believe the automatic model is different as well. The switched 12v in the diagram goes through whats called a pullup resistor, which you can do a search for to find out more about. If you have a 82+ zx dizzy, follow Moby's diagram in the install guide sticky. I wouldnt bother using any of the stock FI wiring harness, since it is seperate from everything else and can be easily removed. I found this simplifies things because you can be more aware of whats going on. And yes, fuel injectors do not have a polarity. At least none that I have heard of.

What he meant was that you should check that the sensor is reading arround 100 KPA with the engine off with either MAP sensor setting.

Take the cap off, pull off the rotor, unscrew the two screws under that and if you have late model dizzy you should expose the optical trigger wheel setup. I'm sure theres an easier way but thats easy enough.

So your ignition is not controlled by MS? Do you have a wideband or any O2 feedback? Take screenshots of any datalogs and of your accel enrichments window and I'm sure we'll be able to help you.

Congrats dude! Isnt it amazing when it all comes together.

Ya I saw that thread of yours about your seats from way back, with the AE86 in the shots. At this point I might take that offer for a new bracket, but it wouldnt put it low enough for me anyways.

Exactly what I had in mind. I'm gona go for it, not being able to wear a helmet isnt an option.

How about this: Are there any safety, regulation, or any other issues that anybody can think of that would make bolting them straight to the floor pan a bad idea? I would do it very securely, of course.

Cool, but do they generally bolt right up? I had read a few reviews of the Forza that said they sat lower, but those were by poeple with Bimmers. I made a bad assumption..

I've looked at a LOT of posts by people about Corbeau brackets but no specific mention on drilling new holes... Not to mention that all the fitment complaints are from short people! Oh well, I'll take pictures tomorrow. I'll probably just end up modifying my floor.

Do Corbeau brackets normally need to be modafied, or do new holes need to be drilled, in order to mount them in an S30 (78 280z)? I just got my new Forza with brackets and NONE of holes where my original seat was mounted line up with the new bracket. Aditionally, the seat is HIGHER than stock!! This is infuriating because half the reason I baught the thing is because I'm too tall to wear a helmet with the stock seat! Could they have sent the wrong brackets (they had a sticker saying 'for 77-78 Z' on them) or is this normal? What are peoples experiences with the fitment of these seats/brackets? I almost want to cut down the factory mounting location and bolt them to the floor.

It was loose because the center nut was loose . Feels better, but didnt fix the problem though, I really think its in the rear... Oh well I'll keep chipping away at the possibilities. Thanks for the direction guys.

I just took a look at my tranny mount and its definitely questionalbe. I can wiggle it back and forth a bit by hand. I'm going to pull it off this morning and give it the Urathane treatment. I have a pair of stubs maybe I'll try those next.. Hope it doesnt come down to that, Im sick of this problem. Thanks guys

I had ruled those out since the impact seems to be coming from the rear, but I guess thats where the driving wheels are so perhaps it doesnt mean anything..?

Whats that? Doesnt sound good. How could I determine if thats the problem?

I have been trying to sort out a problem with my drivetrain for quite some time now. Basically there is play somewhere, which I can feel when shifting gears, jabbing the throttle, etc. I have tried a rebuilding the half-shaft U-joints, replacing the mustach bar bushings with urathane, and have added a sold diff mount (which I know is kinda bad but dont want to hear about it right now). The driveshaft joints dont have any play that I can create using my hands. What else could be causing this? Could it be the diff itself? Thanks a lot, Gavin

Haha. Ya not too many arround here. A lot in New Zealand, and the UK I guess also. Its a good one! - Another question. Is there an easy way of getting my stock tachometer working? From what Im reading theres no output for this in MSII... Is the stock tachometer driven off of the Neg. or is it more complicated?

Thanks! Going to be needing that dyno time real soon. Doing some body work on it right now so theres no rush. Front end got backed into at AutoZone the other day by some BWM driving douchebag. OK though since the cash covered a carbon fiber hood and a new set of wheels, I'm thinking ADVANs or something equally JDM . Anyways.. For all those looking to do this, be encouraged because its real easy! Also, note that to convert to the ZX dizzy from the earlier units you also need the shaft that goes between it and the oil pump. I swapped over a turbo pump as well. Here are my ignition settings. I'm not trying to say any of this is optimal, just functional. Car runs great though! Please point out anything thats out of whack. Setting the dwell was a little wierd. It didnt seem to be consistant. At one point I got it down to 1.8 before it started complaining, and another time it didnt want to be lower than ~2.2 . So I stuck with 2.6 and the VB is barely warm. I dont know what to do with these other options so feel free to give me some guidance. For the table, I used Metro's for the Turbo motor that Moby had posted and modified it for NA usage. Metro's table: My table: Whoa the RPM Bins have changed! Dont know how that heppened! Just noticed. They were the same.. Oh well, the table is pretty flat, so it doesnt change things that much... Wish I had an explanation though... EDIT - Corrected the bins and it runs even better. Anyhow! Although the curve of the table I ended up with didnt seem very logical to me, in my experience, I didnt want to modify it untill I get my car on a dyno. The car actualy has comprable power to before. I drove it fairly hard, did a couple of uphill pulls through the revs and didnt hear any detonation (regular gas). Should have some good power to unlock If anybody has an NA L28 spark map they could contribute, Ill give it a go, but I hope to get it on the dyno soon. My only complaint is that it takes a lot of cranking to start it. Its better when its cold actually. What should I be tweeking to get it starting better? Thanks for the help so far everyone!

It runs! Much easier than I had thaught. I'll post my settings when I get things squared away.

My Dad drives the exact same car (that you started out with anyways). Were keeping that one stock, the orange is very classic. Yours obviously ended up in very good hands! Keep the pics comin!

Got it sparking! Ground to the VB921 came off when I closed it up in the case. Fixed it and remounted it on the outside. Looks cooler this way anyways. Should have it running tomorrow.

Today I used my impact on it, which can get it up to about 10k RPM (on the gauge in MT, so I guess half that really). Dwell was between about 3 and 6 and ignition advance between about 16 and 35 deg.

Alright heres where I'm up to. Got the dizzy wired into MS but not on the engine yet. I can turn it by hand and get MS to read 50-60 RPM. Also wired a VB921 into my 2.2 board as Matt had described, to pin 5 of JP1 without the 330 ohm resistor, and with two wires coming out of the case to ground the VB921 and to the - on the coil. Set the software for falling edge input capture, trigger rise for crank trigger, standard coil charge, and inverted spark output. Havent modified anything else since I had it running fuel only. At this point, shouldnt rotating my ZX dizzy cause the coil to spark? I tried it with a drill and a big flathead bit and it gets up to maybe 4-500 rpm but still no sparks. I'm guessing there is something else that needs modifying on my board, or that theres something else in the software that needs setting up. It was dark by the time I got to this point, so I've given up for tonight. What could I be missing? Thanks