Gavin
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Posts posted by Gavin
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Uh, don't think so. Either it's neg camber where the tires are closer together at the top than the bottom, or you have something seriously wrong with your suspension. -3.5 is going to wear out tires, and your front end needs more neg camber to work at autox.
I'm confused. Negative camber is when the tires are closer together at the top than the bottom, if you were questioning that. So does +3.5 put me at too much positive camber? And what would be optimal in the front/how far off am I?
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Calipers are right side up. I now realize I also should have mentioned that I changed the rear shoes as well right before this problem started.
Rained today so I didnt get a chance to pull it apart. So from what I understand I have to make sure something is catching on a cog under the drum somewhere? This is easy to fix? I dont have my manual up here at school.
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No that was +3.5 . Is that anything extreme?
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After installing my Tokico suspension kit (~1" drop) I am running -.5 in the front and 3.5 in the back for camber. How are these numbers and where do I want them to be? I will be using the car for AutoX.
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I'm starting to think it is just the adjustment.. I'll report back when I have fiddled more.
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Bench bleed? Whats that? If its with a machine like you said, nope. I'm going to talk to some shops on monday if I cant solve the problem by then.
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I bled the master. Doesnt the handbrake cable adjust the rears each time its pulled? Also, what does gravity bleeding involve?
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I bled the brakes on my 78 all day, but the pedal is still soft on the first push. When I jump on them the fronts lock up, and the two of them seem even at least. So I would gather my problem is in the rears. After the first pump everything seems even. My master cylinder was just recently replaced, and the front calipers and rotors were swapped from an earlier 280. What could be causing this?
Thanks,
Gavin
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My stock rear springs measure 15" so sounds like thats your problem. Youre welcome to my fronts once I get them off.
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I'll be interested to see how your fronts come out... I dissected my front struts tonight & found only 1 had a bumpstop
. The springs uncompressed are 15" tall. I have no idea if this is normal, and I can see they were red at one point in time.Yeah I didnt have any bumpstops so far, just some thick playdough-esque grime caked all over my suspension. And I only have 100k miles. Must be the salt. My stock springs were also much taller than the Tokicos decompressed.
Good weather today and I'll take some pics of the fronts.
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Finished with the rears today. I decided to hold off on the bushings untill I have the proper tool, only so much I can take doing in the ice and snow.
Cant complain about ride height. I think the wheels will move outwards more once I have moved it.
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With the smaller diameter tires you'll have more space between the tire & wheel well.
I was thinking more about camber/toe, or maybe youre saying that the wheel dia will not affect these things. What about lowering the car about 1"?
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Is it common for these to be completely disintegrated? Because it looks like thats the deal with mine.
NM found them in my bushing set
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Where is this bump stop I'm supposed to shorten?
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Looks good.
Will I want to modify anything else in the suspension, like lowering my control arm somehow? Also I am using the smaller diameter ZX turbo wheels, would that affect anything?
Oh and another thing, my drivers side handbrake cable is sticky. Can I fix this or do I need to find a new cable?
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Yup, nevermind I found them
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You're already at the stage where you can slide the old strut out and slide the new strut in, so do that.
Well, appart from seperating the axle.
It turns out that my energy suspension kit didnt come with those bushings.. So I'll just do what you said.
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Awesome thanks guys!
And yes I am replacing the bushings.
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Just recieved my matching tokico shocks and springs today!
And started tearing down my suspension, starting with the rears. This is the stage I'm at.
The first problem I ran into was with these bolts on the axle. I managed to get the nuts off but it turns out they are threaded through the flange as well. I'm having a really hard time getting a socket to stay arround them because of the way they are cast, and I have to move the suspension at a tight angle to get it on at all. Any tips on doing this?
My next problem is with this bolt going through the center of the bottom of where the link connects (cant remember what its called, see pic). When I opened up this forum I saw a thread about a pin puller that is needed, is this that pin? Where could I get one of these and do I have an alternative? Hard to tell if its threaded in or what.
Thanks for any help. I've never done anything like this.
I'll keep taking pics as a go and make a mini write-up.
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Tony D:
Anyhow' date=' sorry to org. poster for thread jack.[/quote']
Its OK I actually just found that I have a minor ebrake cable sticking problem on the drivers side so maybe that will fix my problem at least.
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MSnS (distributor) mode allows you to control your timing if you have a single coil firing a distributor.
Your tach/rpm signal into the Megasquirt can come from a crank trigger or from a "locked" ditributor using hall, inductive VR or opto sensors.
The code requires ONE trigger per spark event. If you have a multi-toothed wheel such as 36-1, 60-2 or a Nippondenso 24/2 CAS then you need to look at the wheel decoder instead.
OK nevermind I get how it works now, a lot better at least. So the bottom line is I can use my stock dizzy I just have to modify it with a hall or whateverelse? So basically then I should just go with the CAS dizzy.
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Forgive me but I'm just getting more and more confused as I read.
Yeah, if you want to trigger the IGNITON through a software upgrade such as MS-n-S then you will need to modify the dizzy so it doesn't advance---it needs a fixed signal. Most people just swap in the 280ZXT CAS, but removing the advance mechanisim and using a fixed advance plate. Many things will work as Randy Suggests: Magnets in the front pulley, in the flywheel, reluctor of the stock Electronik Dizzy modified for no advance, etc etc etc...So can I or cant I just get rid of the advance mechanism on my stock dizzy to use it with megasquirt? Is there a way to use it with the - coil output to trigger it or what is the easiest way at this point?
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OK cool now I understand how it works. Thanks.
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Thanks. It started up with the 100 Ohm resistor, but now reads about 1500 rpm over at idle. Should I use a different resistor? And how would I be sure which?
. The springs uncompressed are 15" tall. I have no idea if this is normal, and I can see they were red at one point in time.
How badly do I need to correct my camber?
in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
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****. Could it have to do with running the smaller diameter, and I think wider, 280ZX Turbo-spec wheels/tires?