Gavin

October 3, 2006

Sounds good.

So whats the best way to go about cleaning it and clearing out the passages?

Thanks

October 3, 2006

Any input or thaughts are welcome...

I'm mainly worried about making sure it gets oil pressure when I get it together with the new turbo and start it up.

October 3, 2006

It could be the ground for the starter or battery terminal connections perpahs.

October 2, 2006

I worked at a Toyota dealership for a while and we always used the funnel method as Yasin mentioned. They actualy make special buckets for doing this, which have a special radiator cap for sealing it to the radiator. This way you can fill the bucket, warm it up, and wait for it to stop bubbling. You would be suprised how many bubbles still appear even after maybe 10 minutes of this.

- At home I usually just leave the cap off, warm it up, and keep topping it. Dont think its as effective since the water level is lower.

Try purging an MR2!

October 2, 2006

Finally got around to tearing down the 83 ZX turbo.

We baught the car for 800 dollars and drove it home from NC. Of course, it was too good to be true, as we fully expected. When we baught it it overboosted because the HKS boost controller was hooked up wrong, which was easily fixed. But as we now know it was also under fueled thanks to a bad fuel pump! So the car was driven home like that and fixed soon after. A few weeks later, my father starts it up and notices (thank god) that there is no oil pressure.

We replaced the oil pump and inspected the shaft that goes between it and the dissy, tried a mechanical oil pressure gauge, and nothing.

At one point we left the spark plugs out and the next morning Cyl. #6 was filled with coolant. So there it sat for a while till I got arround to it..

Untill a couple of days ago. Heres what it looks like, didnt do any cleaning except syphoning the coolant off of cyl 6-

http://homepage.mac.com/gavinwilliams/Turbo/1.jpg

http://homepage.mac.com/gavinwilliams/Turbo/3.jpg

http://homepage.mac.com/gavinwilliams/Turbo/4.jpg

http://homepage.mac.com/gavinwilliams/Turbo/5.jpg

Only scoring I can see, without rotating the crank, is on cyl 2. You cant feel it with your finger.

http://homepage.mac.com/gavinwilliams/Turbo/2.jpgBTW thats just a piece of gunk, not metal, on the piston there.

So what could have caused my oil problem? Could coolant have gunked up the works?

Havent looked at the oil inlet under the oil pan yet, somehow I doubt its failed though.. Im having trouble getting it off, is it possible to get the oil pan out without lifting the entire engine?

Does my engine look to be in terrible shape? What should I do about the corrosion? Whats the best way to flush the oil system?

Thanks a lot.

September 9, 2006

Hey Z-Ya, my dad signed us up with the Z-Club. Been too busy working on her to make it to any events. Just painted it yesterday.

Hope to be able to make it soon.

A question- So Ive been reading up on the SCCA classifications. I guess I'm going to go for SMII, but for now, do I need to have an interior to race, or would that mean I need a kill switch on the outside of the car and the other stuff that goes along with the class that would put me in? Basically, can I still AutoX if I dont fit into a class? Thanks.

May 30, 2006

Gavin - There is some good information in this thread, I don't think that you were the nOOb being referred to.

Oh IC sorry, hard to interpret tone in text, ya know what im saying.

So what is this purge device all about and should I get it? What about a nitrous filter?

May 30, 2006

it always scares me to hear n00bs talk about things they don't know much about. but it seems you got everything sorted out now.

Sorry to subject everyone to my learning experience.. The point of this post was just to see if nitrous was even worth it. The dry system w/ MS control is sounding very appealing since I have to buy much fewer materials that way, plus honestly sounds easy to set up. For the ignition it'd be MS controlled with an MSD unit. As for the drivetrain I'll just have to cross my fingers I suppose.. and run street tires, and go easy at launch. I have no reason to run it with nitrous for more than 10 seconds or so at a time. If what I'm saying is off base and it sounds like there is something I dont understand than please call me out on it, thats why I'm writing this.

I do have things much more sorted out now, I just had a few peaces of the puzzle missing. About using MS, it works by sending a signal out to activate the nitrous, but does not add the fuel untill it gets a return signal from the relay. This is so that that between the two I can have things like fuel pressure switches for safety or even a button to activate the nitrous, but I think I'd just let MS handle it. Seams real safe to me since MS is activating the nitrous. Any ideas on how I could make it hold off on the N2O untill 2nd gear?

As for single/direct port, what is the advantage of direct port and is it really worth it in my situation? I don't plan on keeping the nitrous system on the motor afterwards (Or at least I hope the engine will be salvageable ) so I would rather not have mutilated my manifold. But I'll do it if its worth my time..

May 28, 2006

I had thaught the MSD 6A was more expensive, but I see it on eBay for under $100 which sounds good.

Yes I was thinking about using a second VE table with the N2O. From the looks of this, though, it just adds a set amount to each squirt / RPM when the N20 relay is tripped. Or maybe I'm misunderstanding.

- Oh IC I can do either/or. Sick.

http://megasquirt.sourceforge.net/extra/nitrous.html

The scary part will be calculating just how much nitrous is being sprayed and what will be needed from the injectors to match it. Doesnt it change according to the pressure in the bottle?

Another thing - So once I add nitrous am I still tuning with AFR on my wideband or will that not be relevant? Would an EGT gauge be better?

Welding he Diff is something I hadnt thaught of. I have a spare R180 I could weld and swap in just for the drag, not sure just how much weaker that diff is though. I could find another R200 and do the same I guess. I'd rather have the LSD though for the autocross as well, its high on my list but I'm not forking over half my budget.

Thanks a lot so far guys!

May 27, 2006

OK good to know so I'll get a set of MA70 injectors or something and use the MS. I have a set of MA70 coils for the ignition - I dono about the MSD since again thats money. Doesnt it only give multiple sparks below 3000 rpm or something anyways?

Thanks for the link to Dyno Tune I'll go with them.

May 27, 2006

Ya, N2O sorry about that.

OK so a wet system was what I was thinking of doing, since the cold-start injector is in a perfect configuration on the fuel rail for it.

You would be suprised what can be found in junkyards up here near Boston since people arrant really into this stuff round here, for whatever reason. $900 is way too much, so its that or nothing.

I know it'll be hard on my drivetrain, but I think I can restrain myself at launch. Perhaps I'll stick with sticky street tires.

So what kind of power should my r200 be able to take, assuming its in good condition?

Actualy hell I wouldnt even be spraying at the launch right? So couldnt be too bad.. right?

May 27, 2006

Well , to verify, I would definitely be richening the fuel at least with a sprayer like one that would come with a nitrous kit, if not with MegaSquirt. I guess 'wet' means its mixed with fuel before being injected? I have to read up on my NO2.

Standard non-LSD R200 diff right now, only 1 new axle haha but miles arrant too bad like I said. From what I understand I can get a junkyard LSD R200 from a 300zx? Will definitely do that one if budget permits. Everything looks/feels in fine shape though.

Plan on bringing a pair of slicks of some type for the 1/4 mile where I'll be using the NO2. Should I not maybe to go easier on my drivetrain?

Thanks!

May 27, 2006

Just exploring the idea of adding nitrous for the $2006 challenge. I have 105k mile 78 L28 that runs great and am wondering how big a shot it can take. Anyone know?

Also this would be tuned with ignition as well.

April 20, 2006

Post up to let me know if this worked I could well have missed something..

April 20, 2006

Well, you cant really use one without the other. A wideband would let you see precisely how far off your tuning is, but you wont be able to do anything with that info without the laptop. So I would say that you definitely would be better off with the laptop and a narrowband than without the laptop.

If this is a turbo car, you should really sell your body or something and get both..

- oh IC so you can use your friends laptop. So ya, get the WB02.

April 18, 2006

relay board info-

http://www.bgsoflex.com/mspower/mspower.html

and pic-

http://www.bgsoflex.com/mspower/mspowercomplete.jpg

Its real easy to make, like 10 minutes easy.

On my 280z, the EFI harness went from the drivers side of the car over the intake manifols to the injectors, sensors, and cold start valve. Taking out this harness did not disrupt anything in the rest of the car. Yours likely just includes wires for the ignition system as well, which you'll be replacing.

For ignition you will need to connect the CAS on your ET dizzy to the tach input on the relay board and then the relay board to the - on your coil. I have never done this before but lots of others have so search arround.

April 18, 2006

Just to second Z-ya, don't screw around with the looms. You will just end up with tons of extra wires that will only confuse you and get in the way. The EFI harness is nice and modular and can be ripped right out along with the ECU while keeping the ignition system intact.

The relay board makes everything extremely extremely easy - just plug it into your MS and plug in each sensor and injector into the board as well as the fuel pump and tach signal of course, and start your car. Theres your run down Not trying to be a dick, I couldnt believe it was that easy either.

edit- Oh I guess maybe the ECU controlls spark as well on the ET, but reguardless screw the 30 year old wiring.

April 17, 2006

I put mine under the passengers side flap-thingy on the hood, plenty of room there and its very safe from being splashed. You just have to make sure your battery isnt going to move arround enough to smack into it.

April 17, 2006

I finally got the information to fix the links on this post, but it seems that its harder host files now than it was in 2006..

April 17, 2006

Ok guys here it is, all the info is out there already but I know its scattered and confusing.

It's way more of a pain in the *** than we Mac users have come to expect, so bear with me.

You need these:

-Latest MegaTunix software for Unix/Linux/Mac OS X (Thats the .tar.gz file)-

http://sourceforge.net/project/showfiles.php?group_id=128471

-Latest version of Fink (8.0)-

http://www.versiontracker.com/dyn/moreinfo/macosx/12077

-Latest Fink Commander-

http://www.versiontracker.com/dyn/moreinfo/macosx/15256

- Latest Apple X11; This comes on your OS X CD also if you run the installer, choose to install only specific things, and uncheck everything and check X11.

http://www.apple.com/downloads/macosx/apple/x11formacosx.html

- Latest Apple XCode Developer Tools - A big file with a lot more stuff than we really need but we'll install it all anyways to be safe. Sorry to those of you with slow connections but this is how I have done it on all my computers. The main point of this is to give you the compilers z-ya mentioned earlier. If you have a 'pro' machine (PowerMac or PowerBook - or MacBook Pro now) this CD likely came with your computer.

http://developer.apple.com/tools/download/

Fink is a program that makes it easy to download and install Unix software in OS X. Fink is made to run in the command line, Fink Commander is a regular program that makes fink easier to use basically.

1) Install the XCode Tools.

2) Install X11.

3) Mount the Fink disk image and run the installer.

Now there is a good chance that when you run the installer it will give you an error message saying something about adding a line to your PATH, and you will be really confused and scared. This is normal. In my experience this is a lie and it should work fine after a restart. But if things dont work for people later on down the road this could well be why so post up and we'll investigate farther.

4) So restart your computer.

5) For Fink Commander, all you need to do is open the disk image and drag the program into your Applications folder.

6) Open Fink Commander.

These are the programs MegaTunix needs to install and run, which we use Fink to install. These programs are themselves dependent on other programs which may also need to be installed with Fink.

From the MegaTunix README file:

MegaTunix requires the following libraries (and their dependancies);

* GTK-2.4 (and the dev package)

- GTK+ depends on pango, fontconfig, freetype2, pango, glib and atk

* Gtkglext-1.x (and the dev package)

- gtkglext depends on gtk+ and glib

* Xorg or XFree86 development libraries (xorg-devel or XF86-devel)

- libglade-2.0 (and dev package)

- libglade depends on libxml-2.x and gtk+

Start with the ones with a * before them. So type in GTK in the search field at the top right and find version 2.4 or newer. Right click on it in the list (or hold down control and click on it if you only have one button) and select Source->Install. Once this is done, do a search for each of its dependent packages. So in this case start by typing in Pango and making sure it installed that as well. If not, install this from source as well.

Some things will be installed on the computer out of the box. XFree86 is installed with X11.

Once you have searched for each of these items and they are installed you can move on.

7) Open up the MegaTunix .tar.gz file you downloaded earlier. Put the MegaTunix folder that it spits out into your Home folder.

8) Open the Terminal. This is located in your Applications/Utilities folder.

Before doing anything, type in 'ls' . This should list the files in your home folder, which should include the megatunix-x.x.x folder. Now type in 'cd megatunix-0.7.11/' . This will move you into that folder and you can now type 'ls' again and list its contents.

9) Once you are in this folder, we should be ready at this point to do the first part of the install which is to run the configuration. So now type './configure' . If this does its thing without an error, you can move on. If it gives an error, it is probably telling you that it is missing one of the programs it needs, so go back to Fink and install this program and try it again.

9) Now type 'make' . This should do a bunch more stuff. Again if this gives an error it'll probably be because of missing software so go back and install it.

10) Type in 'sudo make install' and it will ask for your password. If this works than we now have a file that we can actually click on!!

11) In a normal Finder window open up your Home folder, open the megatunix folder, and open the 'src' folder inside that. In there somewhere you should find the MegaTunix program. Double click on this and it should open - THIS MAY TAKE A MINUTE to open but don't panic and try to force quit and try again or anything like that - I did that quite a few times. It should open, and will open instantly after this first time.

I suggest putting this megatunix file into your Dock, and you're all set.

Oh after this you need to connect it to the MS of course. I suggest using the Keyspan "USA19HS" serial adapter. If you are using this, first install the drivers it comes with, then you want to click on the Communications tab, type '/dev/cu.KeySerial1' into the Comms Device field and press the return key. It should say the connection worked in the feedback window at the bottom of the screen even if you only have the adapter plugged in. Now click on the General tab and press "interrogate ECU capabilities" and you should be away!

Hope this makes it easy for you guys,

Gavin

__________________

April 8, 2006

The install was really easy because I used a complete kit from DIYAutotune, and yes I made everything myself. I am using a Keyspan 'USA-19HS' serial adapter and MegaTunix in the latest OS X. Installing MegaTunix can be a little annoying. Basically you need to download a program called Fink and another called Fink Commander which allow you to download and install the other required Unix software. A list of the software you need to install is provided with MegaTunix, but often when you install this software it doesnt automatically install whatever software the new software requires..... So ya, that can be a headach but worth it of course. Check out msefi.com for walkthroughs. I did have to use a program called EasyTherm in windows to calibrate my coolant temp sensor.

March 6, 2006

Maybe it can't be filled through the shifter on a 78 5-speed. I used the reverse sensor hole, its at the same level as the filler.

March 5, 2006

How do you fill the transmission through the shifter? I removed the actual lever but the oil isn't draining into the trans. Do I have to remove more than this or what?

Thanks,

Gavin

January 31, 2006

You know,, thats what it said on the computer screen when the shop was done aligning it. Maybe it was up in the air in the back a little. Probably just an error on my part.

So how does the front sound?

January 30, 2006

I had them bled with a machine and a lot of air came out of one of the rears. Pedal feels awesome now. Thanks!

Sign In

Profiles

Forums

Blogs

Events

Gallery

Downloads

Store

Posts posted by Gavin