240Z Turbo

GOOD NEWS: Man, I have been fighting this tranny to make it manually shift the 2-3 with no success. I was having to goose the throttle at 6800rpm in order for it to shift into 3rd gear. Also, it would automatically kick down into second from 3rd all the time. Well, after some talk with my tranny guy and level 10 we decided to take the vacuum line for the modulator and hook it to the inlet of the turbo and whalla the problem is fixed. I did have some flaring problems on the 2-3 shift but was able to rid it by adjusting the modulator. Man, this badboy slaps into 3 very hard. BAD NEWS: Now, for the problem. I have assumed that my stall was around 4100 because I could never load it in 3rd gear under full boost. check this! The stall is 5700rpm. I can put the car in drive and gun it off the line letting the tranny make the shifts. Because the tranny shifts below 5700 my tach stays pegged at 5700rpm in 1st, 2nd and 3rd until I overcome it at about 100mph. I guess I will have to take advantage of that 1 free adjustment and have it lowered to about 4000rpm. BEST NEWS: I spoke with Pat at Level 10 performance and he is faxing me the instructions on how to install a transbrake onto the 4N71B tranny. He says the mod is quite simple and will only require that I buy a solenoid to activate highgear(reverse) when the tranny is engaged in 1st gear. Basically, you put the car in 1st and use a solenoid to send line pressure to reverse activating it. This basically locks the tranny up and allows you to build as much boost on the line as you can handle! Yea baby!

The spring will not affect the overall travel even though it is shorter. Remember, the 2+2 springs are said to have the windings spaced further apart. Therefore, a compressed tokicko spring will have the same length as a compressed cut 2+2 spring because it has fewer windings. now the question is how this will affect the bumpstop.

with that kind of power you should be running faster than that. My old setup on street tires with an open rear ran 12.2 but at 121mph and we figured 365RWHP.

You will always see surfacing marks, just be sure they are not deep and you will be OK. I have used the HKS metal gasket several times. I have always just sprayed it with several coats of copper spray and slapped it on. I usually run the car for a day or 2 and let it cool completly for 24hrs then go back and retorque the head. You should be ok. the only complaints i have heard was an inability to seal water jackets although i never(3 gaskets worth) had problems.

Also, Jeromio that is what I proposed in your pic and thanks for the drawing. You said, "This would keep your strut from bottoming out, which is a good thing, but you won't have much suspension travel." This would not adversely change your suspension travel at all but effectively increase travel because you would now have 1.5" more travel on the strut. Also, by using the 2+2 spring I believe the compressed height of a shortened 2+2 spring will be the same as a compressed uncut tokicko spring because of the winding spacing. I would have to have Scottie verify this.

OK, you all are missing something about the spring I was going to use. I proposed to use the 2+2 spring which has a different spacing between windings. If only Scottie GNZ would chime in on this one. It allows you to cut the coils to make an effectively shorter spring, but will retain enough spacing between windings to that it will not bind. The only thing I wonder about is whether raising the point at which the strut bolts will affect the point at which the bump stops contact. By the way, the picture above is exactly what I was proposing. Also, no matter what spring combo is used I will have to raise the spring perch up so that it can clear a 26x11.5" slick.

Exactly, you would still retain the isolator so you don't have the noise, but would raise the mounting point of the strut top up 1.5". Now to get the spring perch above the tire you would need to get a shorter spring. Scottie GNZ took the 2+2 spring and cut x # of coils off and then moved the spring perch up above the tire. He can now run a 5.5" backspacing. Moving the point at which the strut bolts to the isolator up 1.5" gives you back the stock travel(if car was lowered 1.5") while not having to section the strut tube and also allows me to move the spring perch up above the tire which might not be possible on a sectioned strut tube.

THREADES=THREADS this is the morons language conversion table

Strut Turbos, HEHE! Anyway, the only reason I propose this is so I can still have enough strut tube to raise my spring perch above the tire so that I can run a 5.5" backspacing. Here is what I propose. Remove the stock isolator and drill out the hole where the strut currently bolts. I will then machine a sleeve(1.5") with a seat to slide into the isolator from the bottom(through drilled hole) and will stop at the seat and is secured from the top with a nut(OD of sleeve is machined for threades). This will essentially allow for the point at which the strut is bolted to be 1.5" above its current location. YOu will just slide the strut from underneath isolator as usual, but its new bolting point will be 1.5" higher than its current location. I hope this makes sense?

Have you tried using pipe dope between your PVC connections?

LOL, you mean you have never turbocharged your strut cartridges? Man, that gives you an extra -50 IQ points! I have since pulled my head out of my ass and my thinking was on track as to what sectioning the strut TUBE will do for you and your suspension travel. For my next endeavor I am planning to turbocharge my B&M shift lever and then turbocharge my seatbelt release mechanism. I will post results soon. Bump stops??? What are those????

Ok, so suspension setups are not my area of expertise! I have the usual Tokicko blue springs and struts that lowers the car 1.5". Well, my struts seem to last less than 1 year and go to hell. I want to start by modifying the rears. I have read that I am to use the front struts from the 240z in the rear of my 240z. Will this require that I shorten the strut turbo by 2" in the rear? Also, is the philosophy that you are not compressing the strut while the car is just sitting there and this gives you more strut travel? I just need some clarification. I read the VW post below and think I have a good idea.

That is all dependent on your wastegate. I believe the stock jobber is in the 5-7psi range.

Hey Scottie, I would do all that fancy data logging of my runs, but I can't find anyone to loan me a supercomputer to keet up with how fast the L28 turbo reacts. Hopefully that software has already let you know you don't stand a chance against the mighty 240z Turbo. I am curious, how does that software graph an ass whoopin'!???

besides the $30 for the manifold I have about $50 in the thing. That is because I have access to a machine shop and did all the machining on the thing. I would have done a symetrical setup if space had permitted, but it did not. I received some good information about designs used on the skyline drag cars and followed pics of how they were doing it. in angling the tb towards the #2 and #3 runners, those guys claim to have netted a 60hp increase from that alone. I suppose that having the tb shoot straight in can possibly cause a venturi affect on the 1st 2 runners. Anything will most likely be better than the stock port matched 75 intake I currently use. I suspect I can gain 30-40hp with the manifold swap atleast. Thanks for the comments, it is impressive in real life and I am excited to add it with my new 720cc injectors and then slap it on the dyno. I think 20psi should new atleast 425 rwhp. Later!

you can view the remaining pics at <http://www.eng.fsu.edu/~jthagard> under "Car Pics." <IMG SRC=http://www.eng.fsu.edu/~jthagard/3liter/pics/intake/intakefront.jpg>

I run all braided lines and have no noise as you describe. Does this happen when you kick on the pump and the car is not running, just for when you are pressurizing the system? My fans use to trigger my ignition as I described and it would fire all the injectors causing it to make a loud pulsing sound. Do you batch fire all of your injectors? You might try to alternate the injector firing and pair them up or run sequential to see if that helps. You would potentially pressurize the system and then your 6 big squirters suddenly open up relieving the pressure. Is the fuel pump run off of its own relay and not on the same power as the injectors?

all the rx7 stuff works from 86 and on, just make sure you know what years are high and low impedance. I just got new 720cc injectors for my car and they are the same style as come on Honda's and such. You can check out pics of my new fuel rail on my sight under pics. http://www.eng.fsu.edu/~jthagard

Does your ignition fire off of your front pulley(direct crank fire setup)? Also, do you run an electric fan? If yes to all of the above, the fan may trigger the ignition setup causing the injectors to fire. That is about the only thing I can think that will cause your fuel system to pulse.

I have one in my car and it whips on on Scottie GNZs all day long! http://www.eng.fsu.edu/~jthagard

I think the turbo you stated, but run the 60-1 wheel insted of the Super-H wheel. Probably use the .67 a/r and put it into the to4b housing.

Morgan, you ask questions but do not listen to the answers. You posted about this pump and the concern over fittings. I responded and said that Corky machined me an aluminum Earl fitting for the metric threads. One side is a 3/8 NPT and the other is a -6 male JIC end. They machined the 3/8 end for the metric threads and you just use it with the copper crush washer. Not a big deal and was an extra $8.

Actually, it comes with several outlet fittings for different uses. You have the option of a banjo type filling or some other misc. crap. The actual threads on the pump are a metric female straight thread that is sealed with a copper washer when the proper fitting is installed. Bell machined an Earl fitting to accept the metric thread and used a male -6 JIC fitting on the other side. I ran a short piece of -6 and then bumped it up to -8.

Just don't look at yourself in the mirror and you will remain happy with yourself

crap, this was for the post below, not as a stand alone!