240Z Turbo

call clifford performance for the header flange. It is about 5/8" thick and costs $49. This flange is very nice and saves you much headache! Making the header was not too difficult. I would think even a Weld-el header is better than stock. I have heard a good turbo header adds about 40-50RWHP on big turbo applications. It is not too hard and you can cut and grind yourself and tack it yourself. When you are ready to weld it solid take it to a professional. I did all the cutting and fitting on mine and had a buddy weld it up for FREE!

The problem is that he has given you a retarded wastegate actuator. You need a different wastegate actuator that does not place it so far above the compressor housing. You will need a spacer as the TO4E will not directly bolt up to your stock setup. It is best to use about .25" spacer and will require that you swap the studs out.

Ahaa, my research area...composite materials. Two things to consider: 1) radial expansion caused by boost 2) operating temperature resin will be exposed to. A good fiber resin combo will easily handle the radial expansion, but you will need to choose a thermoset resin that will handle 300-400F radiant temperatures. A hand layup'd manifold will look like ass even if you can somehow vacuum bag it. The best material for the money would be carbon fiber and you can buy it in a braided sleeve. I picked up a bunch of free samples of carbon fiber and carbon/kevlar sleeving material as I will probably make my own composite intake manifold. Keep in mind if you do not have the experience and knowledge you will not be able to make a nice manifold. Good Luck!

Test

Nissan Cima Motor I believe this add is for the VG30DET motor in the Cima, but you would have to inquire. It supposedly has thicker cylinder walls.

Boy, that was some funny postings. I am sure the 11 degrees is in reference to the clip put on the turbine wheel. Clipping the wheel reduces backpressure allowing for the turbo to create more all-out power. However, the price you can pay is a reduced surface area on the turbine wheel which can potentially decrease spoolup. TimZ is running a T64 which is a monster for a street car in most applications. Here is a pic of his turbo setup and you can see the size of the turbine housing, about 9" diameter. I used to run the same turbo, but used the smaller 60-1 turbine housing and had it bored out for the T64 compressor wheel. To give you some idea, the large diameter of the compressor wheel is 3.55". Don't be fooled by people claiming that a 48trim will make 450+hp@wheels on an L motor. I suppose if you want to run about 30psi of boost it is possible, but be reasonable about what 99% of the people do. Nobody is gonna run 30psi of boost on a street car, so pick a turbo that supplies enough flow at boost levels in the 20psi range which is doable even on pump gas. For example, TimZ's T64 made 391hp@wheels at about 22psi of boost. That should be a good reference for what to expect. I calculated that my old 60-1 was making about 363@wheels with 19psi of boost. Anyway, just remember that it takes a bit more turbo on the L6 to make the good power and if you have 350+hp @wheels then you have a pretty fast car. [ September 23, 2001: Message edited by: 240Z Turbo ]

I have one and have the same problem. I actually ran some supports across the top and used the filler cap bolts and ran them through the supports. This pulled it back up, but is a cheap rig in my opinion. I need to fabricats a nice aluminum rings that can be attached to those top bolts to work a bit better. Cheaper than a $250 metal cell!

As said before the center section is just a stock cam gear. I do not see how it could have caused a bolt to come loose unless the assembly was way out of balance, but I would suspect you would feel engine vibration from it. Did he try locktite?

Shane, you need to lower the rpm at which you launch. I would think that you could hook with those drag radials. I borrowed Scottie's Comp T/A and those hooked so hard it snapped the u-joint at the top of 1st gear. Scottie said it looked like the ass of the car almost dragged! Anyway, slicks will be your only solution if you can't find that happy spot at the launch. I bested a 12.2@121 with street tires.

Are you talking about the main cam gear bolt that holds the whole unit in place? It uses an actual Nissan stock cam gear that is modified. Also, the timing is lock in by a set screw and would have to be sheared to move the timing. Even if that screw cam out it could only go +/- 6 deg. It sounds as if that guy wasn't doing something right.

Malvern Racing They sell a nice adjustable cam gear that does not require that you take it off to change timing marks. Costs about $150.

I usually saw about 15-16 in-mg at 900-1000rpm and idle.

you have the picture linked to your drive or your server and not to a url.

Yea, but its not a Nissan motor and the potential for power is less. BTW Jake, do you live in Houston?

As I said it will run out in front of the rear tire on the passenger's side. Spintech

Yes, the area for both 2.5" downpipes is 9.817 in^2 and the area of 1 single 3.5" downpipe is 9.62 in^2. I did not want restriction that would have occurred if I were to use a single 3" after the collector. Yes, it is a true 3.5". I thought about getting some 3" and then writing 3.5" on the side of it, but figured it would not be a true 3.5"! HEHE! Actually, I purchased 3.5" oval exhaust that measure about 4" wide x 2.5" tall to tuck underneath my car and the exhaust will exit infront of the rear tire on the passenger's side.

Sorry, 2x Mitsubishi TDO5 16G's(7cm housings)

Drax, as you can see the wastegate outlet of the front turbo goes to the wastegate as pictured and you can also see the tube that merges into it. I will next run more 1.75" SS tube from the wastegate hole off the rear turbo to the merge. So as you said, both turbo's are tied into the single wastegate. This will also act as a balance tube for the exhaust pressure. For the exhaust you can see the rear turbo downpipe heads toward the ground and the front downpipe snakes under the rear turbo. I will also merge these two 2.5" SS dowpipes into a single 3.5" collector. The tricky part is placing the SS bellows inline on both the downpipe and wastegate tube somewhere in the system. This will allow for flex caused by vibration and heat expansion. I have actually completed the hardest part which was getting the rear downpipe from hitting the car and the front downpipe from hitting the rear turbo. I will next remove the header and fab the remaining with it off the car. It will be much easier that way and I now know I have no more clearance issues. After that it is only a matter of making some heat shields. Luckily I now have access to a shear and break! YIPPEE! TT here I come!

Scottie, I'm coming for ya baby so WATCH OUT!

HEHE! You so smart!

TimZ, this theory might explain why some people are shocked you made 400hp@wheels with the smaller o-trim wheel. You are using a monster wastegate that may be helping to flow and reduce backpressure. I wonder if I can find another Racegate for cheap!

Wouldn't you know it, I just finished porting my twinturbo header today. Great topic in my opinion! There is also another aspect not to be overlooked. Turbo technology has come along way and better wheels have enabled for more power and faster spoolup. I hope my twin 16G will outspool my old T64 from both the inertia & backpressure argument and the fact that the Mitsubishi stuff is slightly newer technology. BTW, I am a bit confused on how the larger wastegate can increase spool times!

Thanks for the try SCCA. Wouldn't you know it. I sold your 5lug stuff and now that I have more money I need it again! I guess my buddy's shop may have a 17x7.5 that I could mock up and see how it fits or does not fit! Thanks, I will let everyone know the verdict of a 17x?? on the front without coilovers. BTW, BLKMGK has coilovers on his setup.

I found some 17x7.5" rims I would like to purchase for the front of my car, but are of the 5-lug variety. I have no problem using the 300zxt 5lug stuff. I am wondering if I do not have coilovers what is the correct offset for this rim and will it fit?

Cerberus, don't hate me because I'm beautiful. I am not trying to start a squable with you. It is true that both TimZ and myself have spent more than you, but I also have friends that use bone stock 280zxt long blocks and make 350hp@wheels all day long. I can get one of those for about $300. The initial debate was about running 3-4 dyno runs and completely tuning a motor. BTW, nobody said dyno tuning wasn't good, just not the best way to perform all the tuning. TimZ is physic and has a part-time job on the physic friends network....How did you know that? The point was that without the use of dyno tuning he extracted 375hp@wheels and once strapped down netted 391hp@wheels and 410ft/lbs@wheels. So, as you can see the dyno helped, but his ability to street tune got him pretty darn close to his potential. Hey BLKMGK, I did not realize that calling someone a "Chevie guy" was name calling. I wouldn't be offended if someone called me a "Datsun guy!" I guess that says something. Anyway, to all I am not trying to start a fight with anyone but want people to have the facts about what it takes to tune a motor whether it be the street or dyno. In my opinion, learn to tune yourself so that you are not prey to those who do tune. Just ask Joel S. who paid Hesco(premier Electromotive tuner) $800 to have his car tuned and it still ran like ass! [ September 06, 2001: Message edited by: 240Z Turbo ]