sicj

saw this car a few months ago in NorCal. stunning car. sounded wicked too, V8 with rotary rasp.. instead of trying to sell it. DRIVE IT. it was disgusting to not see one spec of dust on a "race car" I noticed he had the external fuel pump and -8 fuel line running in the car all the way down the tunnel/center console through the firewall to the engine..not race sanctioned at all. lol

IDK if this is coo or not cause it another forum's little shindig but... They had a Nissan/Datsun/Infinity meet today. Here's some pics... brand new LS3 crate motor Fairlady RB26DETT Full on raced out. CRAZY. funniest car there. straight up H.I.N. car there was some GTR's there and a few more 370's and 350's. Pretty small turnout but a lot of early Z's which is what I went for.

I have a problem with the black/white wire running from the IGN switch to the coil... The car has a 280zx elec. distributor in in when I bought it. Started cutting out randomly. Finally would never restart. -I get 12v+ without the distributor hooked up @ the blk/wht wire by the coil. -Hook the dist. to the coil no more 12v. Car won't start. found the blk/wht wire under the colum was rubbing on the underside of the steering colum. Looked like it was grounding out causing a short. fixed that, still no start. -Ran 12v+ to the coil straight from the batt. to the coil, car starts. -Add a switch and a relay to control the coil/ign F trying to find another short through 44' of wire. I now have excellent 12v+ with better cranking and killswitch

not to hijack but I thought solving my problem could add to this thread. I started having cut out issue when driving. Then It finally would not re-start. The MSD Blaster 2 coil measured 1k ohms over the spec on the secondary winding. I replaced the coil. I had my HEI module tested at Auto Zone. It checked out fine. Now only when I connect the HEI B-tab to the Coil +, I DO NOT get 12v @ the coil +. very strange. If I remove the HEI B wire I get 12v. It's like the HEI module is not allowing the 12v to get past the coil + when hooked up to the coil. The Dist. pickup is measuring .374 K ohms not hooked up All new wires/tabs installed.

what needs to be done to fit the s12 crossmember in? I'm getting ready to junk my s12. Be nice to know if I could use more than the R200 from it...

little update. had my friend patch the frame and get the tension rod bracket straight again, so I can drive/move the car around. Then I sourced a new chassis. It's being delivered on Tuesday. It's got a 260 engine, no trans, interior's shot, no rust or frame/floor damage. Minor battery tray rust and rear lower quarter surface rust. Been sitting in a field long enough to drop out of the DMV's system...picked it up for $700.

I run 225/50/15's on a 8" 0 offset wheel. But I'm tucking 1/4"-1/2" of tire. They will rub. Little roll/pull on the rear will do the job. No rub on the front.

floors/rails are gone. and the rear (outside/body) portion of the rocker panels are rotted out.

So the update to all of this is it's a lost cause. Not just from what I posted here but a few other spots on the car as well. I brought the frame guy out to look at it showed him what I posted here and it shocked him at first. But it could be repaired because the rest of the unibody on that side of the car is fine. Probably continuing to drive it would result in the unibody failing too, but at this point replacing what ripped off would be fine. The other problem was the left front of the car was in a enough of an accident to bend down the headlight/hood mounting portion of the chassis. He followed that back and found the frame to be wrinkled just before the crossmember and bondo on the frame to make it look smooth. That's what did the car in. So for now I'm going pound it back straight (enough) to patch it so I can drive it to my pops house, while I look for another car. Good thing everything I've done to this point is a nut and bolt affair and can be swapped to another chassis. Sad, sad day for one more Z.

Well the way I'm looking at it is even I got a new (straight) car I'd still want new floors/rails because the stockers are so thin. As per many of your guy's suggestions I'm having it looked at by a local body/frame shop tomorrow and see what he says about it. thanks guys.

Zedd floors and Bad Dog rails on on their way. So even if I pick up another shell. These are getting installed. I'd like to have stiffer/thicker floors in a chsssis that's stright anywyas. So this will be a good thing and better than any chassis I can find. Then I'll pick up a Kirk cage from you John.

Structurely the rust is in the footwells of the floors and a little bit around the seats. The rails are smashed and rotted out in a few places. The outside of the rockers (towards the rear wheel well) are rotted out. But that's just the body (cosmetic)

no. EPIC FAIL. yeeeeah bro!

testy, testy people. wow. So now that the roof and pillars aren't wrinkled, or dented, like you suggested to check (thanks for the tip) now what? still scrap it, or try to save it? You'd think people on here would be a little more into PRESERVING the few chassis we have left instead of hunting for a perfect showroom floor chassis. But I'm sure everyone's car on here is perfect I know.

The tension rod mount just looks like a 'box' tacked to the main chassis. It looks like the tack welds popped and the whole 'box' was peeled away. I doubt entire structural chassis damage would be a result from a few tack welds popping away. Imma save this Z, after all, that's what these cars are all about. It's a series 1 it's worth saving. I ordered Zedd's floors and full BadDog rails. It will be back and better.