bob88

The thing is that it worked perfectly before.

Alright, I fixed that problem, thanks to GrayZee's idea of putting in a starter relay, and I got to drive the Z around the block, but now the starter wont even move the engine. I turn the key and there is just clicking. I took the starter out and checked the gears on the flywheel and starter and they look fine and yes, I charged the battery . I put the starter in and hooked it up except for the wire to the solenoid. to the solenoid i ran a gator clip and touched it to the positive terminal on the battery. The engine moved, no clicking but very slow and then it stopped. I took it to kragen to get it checked and they said it was fine. Anybody has any suggestions why in hell its doing this.

I think they are closer to 3100 The 66s are around 3200 i think. And ya, thats awsome.

My moms freind came over and did the timing, we hooked up the plug wires. I turned the key and it started. AMAZING. Anyway, I'll be driving it tomarrow im sure. Finally.

Thats what im going to do tomarrow. Thanks

ya, everything works. Headlights, tailights. So the white-red wire is good. The wire thats sapposed to go to it is even getting power when i turn the key Its so weird. Its getting a good ground. if i bypass everything and just use gator clips it works, but when i hook up the black-yellow wire which is giving power to it it works once in a while. Its like the black-yellow wire isnt giving enough power or somthing. I'll try charging the battery tonight

Ya, I did all of that. I connected it to the "S" terminal.

I have all my wiring done, but I hooked the Black-yellow wire up to the starter "S" terminal the + battery wire and White-red wire going into the firewall to the big terminal. I turn the key and nothing happens. I checked the Black-yellow gets power when turn the key to the start position. I also took the starter to Kragen and they said it worked fine. Everything else works fine, the lights, guages,ect. Any ideas

Im 16, I've had my license around 9 months. So far i have only totalled one car, my moms 98 mustang GT convertable. It wasnt my fault, some lady turned left in front of me. I was doing the speed limit (for once) and didnt get blamed for it. I love insurance.

look at turbomustangs.com They'l have a bunch of info on turbocharging windsor blocks And if you have enough money to build a TT system, you might as well go AFR instead of trickflow

Man, thats a bit of bad luck Im 16 almost done with my swap, doing to ELECTRICAL right now. That is definatly my worst nightmare once i get mine started. I hope insurance helps you out. Good luck.

I took the bumper off my 280 to make it work I dont know how much lenth your gonn get out of a 240 though the 280 bumper gave me at least 6" more reach

Dont know any shops, but as soon as you find out PM me, I live in Burbank. My frieds gonna do mine probably though

Alright thanks, i couldnt get it off with just pulling it off so i used a puller (makes sense right ) and got it off.

Alright, now after that workout i got it off the flange still doesnt pull out. I have the chiltons manual, its unclear how to get it out. Does anybody have any experience pulling it out I thought it would pill out similar to the yolk in a transmission after the nut was gone

mines square. I went out to pull the nut off that holds the flange on and it wont budge I tried everything I used WD-40 tapped it with a hammer and put a wrench on the socket handle it just twists the mount. Any suggestions

O I've encountered problems, just read the book and used the search bar like you guys say too. It really gets frustrating when nothing works the first time. I'll PM getz, but if that doesnt work ill ask a machine shop to do it Thanks for all your help BTW

Alright, thank you. I figured out that my 75 Z has a 2" differential flange not the 2.25" in every other model What a pain Anybody have a 2.25 flange? Guess im going to the junkyard instead of paintballing tomarrow.

I have a 75 datsun Z that used to have a 5 speed in it. I am doing the chevy JTR swap My JTR adapter flange for the drivshaft doesnt fit the flange on the front of the differential 2 bolts fit and the other 2 dont. its very close though

Im almost done with my swap I got the drivshaft back yesterday with the JTR flange on the back of it. I put the drivsaft in and the holes didnt line up on the differential flange to the JTR flange. What can i do to make the flanges fit?

What happens if they send you a notice and your car is 75 or older. Most people cant tell the difference between a 75 and a 76 280z.

I just said f it and i went whith the chevy swap.

Im building my Z and Im 16 and believe me, my favorite tool is a hammer. lol. No, that is true. Trail and error is the best way to learn.

I've spent 3 and a half thousand so far and mine isnt close to being done. This is with the first generation carburated small block 350 and a WC T5 5 speed. These were both rebuilt for 2k. If you add the bellhousing, clutch kit, master cylinder, and flywheel, you have at least 2 and a half thousand. The JTR kit was I think around 500. I got my intake and carb cheap for 70 (used). If you add all the other stuff you forget to budget like the shifter, fuel pump, fuel lines, ect. It adds up. LS1, in my opinion is pretty much out of the question until you have 7-8 grand. The LS1 and T56 alone can cost 3 i think. Correct me if im wrong.