nope

yea its basically just a locking nut that you thread back against the threaded sleeve so the strut assembly cant rotate. the only issue with these is that the damping adjustment knob is buried way up in that sleeve a good 6 inches.. so once its welded to the hub you better have thought of a good way to access it later. im probably gonna epoxy or tack weld a long allen to the knob and drill an access hole through the bottom of the hub so that it just sticks out there with an external knob.

haha cool man.. i knew my comment would be hit or miss with the crowd on here. but hey, like you said.. shes a girl.

haha awesome.

uh damn these are sooo nice. azc charged me an arm and like 12 legs but you cant get any better for an s30. just some pics for enjoyment, and just a little bit of gloating.

ah man its a s30 z.. make it fast and harsh no compromises and love it. plus it the only way youre gonna get girls with this car. if youre worried about smooth youll need at least a g35 coupe.. haha.

haha yea, exactly. if you wanted to you could pull out that spindle pin dave supplies (way easier than stock pin) and turn the rod ends. im really glad he provides his own pins, because damn if i ever see one of those stock pins again.. ill make little children passing by cry. as far as how i can claim the azc lca's are a "better" design, i was just referring to how robust and clean they are.. personal opinion you might even say. load paths are better. i didn't like the slightly bent tube idea at first but its actually pretty smart in terms of part continuity, as well as manufacturing. when you said "for which application," im assuming you were talking about the bushings vs rod ends.. but no ones raising debate there. i mean if you want compliance, you get lca's with bushings. im just talking about the geometry. on car adjustment is pretty damn straightforward too.. if youre having trouble deciding its pretty much going to come down to the outboard pickups you want. im sure almost everyone here whos bought lca's has gone through the same dilemma.. you want the azc ones, but youre not sure you want to jump into rod ends. good luck deciding man.

eh i vote azc lca's. i have them and theyre a better design.

holy

Thats what i did. Although i ended up never using them, so I've got a pair of new ones for the vented brakes. Also have the Z31 vented rotors and 5 lug hubs and custom spacers.. need to post the damn things on the sale forum as a package. PM me an offer if youre interested in the package.

awesome, thanks hugh. all i had was the KA manual.

yeah i was looking for that pic.

Ah one of my buddies has the SR FSM. In case anyone wants to know, SR torquing specs- In FSM specified numerical bolt order do the following: bolt order: ____________________________________ ENGINE | (9) (3) (1) (6) (8) | ENGINE FRONT | (7) (5) (2) (4) (10) | REAR ¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯ tighten all to 29 ft.lb tighten all to 60 ft.lb loosen all completely tighten all to 25-33 ft.lb turn all 90-95 degrees clockwise

Anyone know the torque specs for the cylinder head bolts on the SR? I know a bunch of you out there have replaced the head gasket. Are they the same as the KA? KA torquing specs- In FSM specified numerical bolt order do the following: tighten all to 22 ft.lb tighten all to 59 ft.lb loosen all completely tighten all to 18-25 ft.lb turn all 86-91 degrees clockwise (equivalent to 55-62 ft.lb) thanks.

is unsprung cool for a daily? and about how many miles have they lasted you?

I've used both types of clutches when i owned an integra gsr. Although i was over zealous the first time and got a 6 puck that was way too insane for my car (2700lb clamping). On the other hand, after the 6 puck chewed through my aluminum flywheel, broke my clutch fork and died, the organic i bought next was just a tad soft. clamping was rated like double stock (1700lb) but eh, lies.. my friend has an unsprung 6 puck ACT in his SR20 240sx and he says he likes it. im looking for medium pedal effort and great clamping with no chatter, but not trying to spend THAT much though.. haha any comments from experience on the SR? or has anyone driven with some other really nice clutch? thanks

Probably doing head gasket and bolting on the new exhaust manifold tonite. Im ordering new valve cover gaskets as well so i'll change those when i get them. For the cover itself.. i want to have it repainted a slightly richer red (sr240z's is really nice), but i think i'll hold off till i have a batch of things thats need paint/powdercoating. Glad you guys are liking it, i had several people telling me i should leave it polished instead of painting it black.

-stripped it and covered up all intake/exhaust/oil/water ports and seals. -used an angle grinder with different wire wheel attachments for several sessions (the cup type wheel seemed to work best for most of the area). -used foamy engine brite and engine brite gel about 4 times each, using toothbrushes and detail wire brushes as well. -wiped it down with acetone about 3 times and shot compressed air at it. -stuffed paper towel plugs in threaded holes and masked everything i didnt want painted, razor blades helped. -used duplicolor 1200deg "black" engine paint, 2 light coats with one can, 1 thicker top coat with other can.