nope

ok lame..

thanks BillZ260, glad you liked it. actually i havent updated that site in a long time. just started my picasa album cleaned everything for like a million hours and painted with black hi temp ceramic engine paint. enjoy. ill be replacing the head gasket soon and bolting on new intake and exhaust manifolds after that. still have to clean up the damn transmission though :/

i just decided to get one, eh its 100 bucks.. whatever for now.

anyone else have any comments on these ebay greddy knock offs? some are going for like 120 shipped, and others more like 220..

ive got a pair of cleaned up 5 lug front z31 hubs with new bearings and grease and brand new toyota 4x4 brakes plus better spacers if anyone is interested (..titanium) hubs

I paid for a set early this week and im supposed to get them next friday. Damn i cant wait to get them.. and my engine isnt even in yet. As far as how these work, the inverted strut (basically just upside down so that the beefier part is exposed) is sick especially since we all have mcpherson and chapman strut configurations, in both front and rear, which are kinda vulnerable to bending moments. With the shocks we have, the shaft is the weakest link because its inertial properties are low and its not being supported by anything when in bending (partly why modern suspensions are multi link). As far as sprung vs unsprung weight goes, the unsprung weight is slightly lower when inverted. 1600$ is definitely a grip, but well worth it. I've been waiting for an inverted strut option for my 240 for a while. To think i was JUST about to buy a regular coilover setup just before these came up. I guess in this case its a good thing im a lagger.

yea since i just graduated from ucsd they took my webspace away and this other free webhosting thing i have totally sucks.. take a look at my website and you'll see. ill figure something out soon as far as posting good links, but i want to go play with my SR before it gets dark ahah. 4 day weekend coming up so there will be some progress to come.

so i went and bought an SR last weekend. damn it felt like christmas. Sorry guys at Vildini, i would have gotten my SR from you guys but i got a really good deal on the motor set with an s15 ball bearing t28. Plus this shop is like 15 minutes from my house. Im pretty sure ill get a hood from you guys this summer though. Glad to finally be an owner of an engine, and maybe i will in fact get to drive my damn car some day.

yea thats totally true. hey an even better idea.. install a non-metallic "ground" plate vertically inside the tube (just like you have now in your wind tunnel setup) and glue a magnet to the bottom of the car. on the underside of the ground plate you can place a matching poled larger magnet with wieght of choice. this way the plate runs between the magnets and the bulk of the weighted item is removed from the car and out of its flow path. any other variety of testing rig components can be linked to the car this way and kept completely out of the test section. this also provides a ground for the car and keeps it straight as you mentioned. good idea with the weight and pulley btw.

eh, i say oil is still best. no moving parts, perfectly reapeatable, and most importantly could easily stay under $40. tube oil thread pipette food coloring model car lead weights clay

for reynolds number confusion try thinking of it this way. you have a 10 foot long plate with air traveling over the top at some given speed and you observe boundary layer separation (transition stage to fully turbulent flow) half way down the plate, so 5ft. now you set up a 1 foot long plate (1:10 scale model) in the same fashion. how fast do you think you need the air to flow across the top to separate half way down this scaled down plate? air needs to flow 10 times as fast to get boundary layer separation 10 times sooner. ive done some wind/water tunnel testing in some of my labs and honestly i dont think its too practical to try this test at home using atmospheric air at such a small scale. your best bet to make this experiment succesful is using another fluid like water and feeding a stream of food coloring in through a very small tube upstream of the car. but then thats more complex.. and more money. or get a pirated version of solidworks and get really good at modeling cars then test in flowworks.

yea inversely proportional. you want the same reynolds number. so if char. length is smaller then you need to up the speed. time for a new fan huh?

hey dave i couldnt find any info on your new big piston setup for the 240z. id like to get a full set of coilovers pretty soon, any chance you could send some info and pricing my way?

another alternative to duct tape is aluminum foil applied with light spray adhesive and a plastic spreading tool. then put your mold release of choice on that. the foil is really thin and works well with any contour.

ive got a set of four of these wheels too i should probably sell. theyve got slicks on them but the slicks may be dead, not sure. im in sd but want to sell them as a set of 4. no rash, just need polishing and theyll be great. pretty sure theyre 14x7.5 also. if anyones interested, pm me an offer or something. wish i could help out on the name of these wheels but im not quite sure myself.

if youre real slick you would mount your splitter to your suspension (outboard). constant ground clearance.