Soup

As title states, looking for adjustable suspension to upgrade my 240Z. Front and rear lower control arms, tension control rods, tie rods, and bolt-on camber plates. Must be in good condition. Thanks.

Good to see a lot of (fairly) local Z owners! I'm just up in Vancouver.

Excellent, thanks, was trying to figure this out yesterday.

Is it just me or are your rotors on the wrong sides? Shouldn't the slots be like this;

For my 73 240Z, the wires are: white to yellow white/black to black/white diode with stripe on white/black Had a few issues as you can see I finally figured out here, http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/103159-second-remand-alternator-still-no-charge/

Where locally can we find pure lanolin oil in a bulk size besides having to purchase 20 bottles of the 4 oz. cosmetic stuff?

Looking for either the OEM LHS door mirror for my 240Z or a pair of fender mirrors. Let me know! Cheers.

They look good! Did you use a template to install them? I remember an original Nissan doc floating around for their NOS mirrors...

Dee, can you PM me the link to the eBay auction? Would love to check them out as well!

How about a 260Z dash into a 240Z? I have a series II model.

Oh that was hideous before I read the caption below of it not being the actual picture.

I'm still new to the Z scene but here are a few of mine,

This:

Does such a thing exist? Searched around and it seems like the general consensus is no... But the JDM crowd must have something!

UPDATE II: There were a couple threads on here that suggested the wrong wiring for a 1973 240Z. For future reference, the VReg connectors should be connected like so: White/Black to black/white Yellow to white As for the diode, I used a 1N5408 (have 3 extra if anyone needs one and don't want to buy in bulk) diode with the cathode end (end with the WHITE stripe) soldered onto the WHITE/BLACK wire. There weren't many relevant or accurate threads for the '73 240Z so hope this helps!

UPDATE: I checked my modified VReg connector and lo and behold, I had soldered the wrong wires together. On AtlanticZ, I followed the '73 picture and labelled the wires 1 through 6. I then connected them in the sequence that he used for the 280s (1-5 and 2-3). This is wrong. The correct configuration was posted directly below the '73 picture, ironically; black/white to white/black and white to yellow. The FSM is currently downloading so once that is up, I will update on which end of the diode goes to which white/black wire. Went for a quick drive and immediately after start-up, the voltage was 14.15V. Ammeter was 1/3 onto the +ve. Thanks again NewZed!

After a bit more searching, I found this thread that describes my exact problem although my 'cut-off' with the NAPA special alternator was at 4000 RPM. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-35684.html I double checked my modified VReg plug and it is correct. Here are the readings from T-connector on the alternator: With the connector unplugged, key to ON but car not running; 'S' horizontal tab 3.455V 'L' vertical tab 0.00V I yielded the same results with the car running and connector unplugged. With the T-connector plugged in, 'S' read 12.15V while 'L' was still 0.00V.

My car is a 1973 so no charge idiot light for me. I will check the terminals and report back. Thanks again!

Thanks so much! Bit of a newbie question but how should I go about measuring the voltage at the L terminal? Should the car be on or off? Unplug the T-connector and place the positive on the L terminal with the negative probe on the case?

The car was running fine for the last few weeks until I decided to get off my butt and try to solve the 'mandatory-rev-before-charging' issue with another alternator. I am pretty sure the wiring modifications for the 280 swap were fine - could be an outstanding issue that I've only noticed due to doing the upgrade? At any rate, here are pictures from when I first did this a few weeks ago. Shot of the modified plug from the OEM external voltage regulator: NAPA special 280ZX regulator, charging well after a spirited drive:

RESOLVED: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/103159-second-remand-alternator-still-no-charge/page__view__findpost__p__965380 Long story short, I picked up a Bosch reman'd alternator and it won't charge the battery. I'm stumped on the what the issue is. I had completed the 280ZX alternator swap into my '73 240Z a few weeks ago with a NAPA special 280ZX alternator, battery read a consistent 14.4V only AFTER I revved the car to 4000 RPM sometime following start-up. At idle, prior to revving the engine, it would be around 12.4V or so. Ammeter gauge would go from the middle (before rev) to about 1/3 into the positive axis after. Thinking the alternator was to blame, I returned it and they gave me a remanufactured Bosch alternator instead. Even worse, this alternator doesn't charge the battery at all. Does anyone know what the issue may be? Car off, battery reads: 12.45V Car on, idling: 12.18V Revving the engine up it read 0.01V higher on average With lights on: 12.06V Could it be that I picked up a second lemon alternator in a row? Or is it something else? When I modified the voltage regulator plug, I followed atlanticz's tech page and it worked well with the NAPA special for the most part, minus the 'rev-to-charge' issue. Help is much appreciated!

Excellent, you have been e-mailed!

Looking to buy or trade a set of door weatherstripping for those folks who bought from Black Dragon or Precision and found them to be too thick. I have the opposite problem, I ordered a brand new pair of Kia Sportage weatherstripping and they are too thin for me. 90% of the Z forums have found them perfect, I'm the 10% who doesn't. Willing to either buy or trade. I bought the strips from kiaparts.com for ~$110 shipped and they have been on my car for 2 weeks. Fitment itself is great but my doors don't shut close enough for a tight seal leading to a moist interior upon heavy showers - they have however solved my rattling door issue. Located in Vancouver, BC.

Video will have to wait. Car died tonight on the way home. Complete loss of power as it coasted to a halt. Managed to pull over and fuel pump primed only when the lights were on, I'm thinking either the battery is toast or the alternator bit the dust. I'll be throwing in another battery and testing the old one to see what's going on. Any ideas on how to test the alternator? I would hate to replace both willy nilly.

Still in the process of rigging up a proper camera mount... OCD issues