zgeezer
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Posts posted by zgeezer
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The search isn't helping me much as most of these parts are the wrong series or in a huge list of a car being parted out etc. I've been browsing for a while and thought maybe I'd get bites if I just listed everything needed for my restore
m/t center console
heater controls panel
hatch glass with working horizontal defroster vanes
all interior quarter panel trim, need crack free, color doesn't matter, I'm making a cf version of each and need a master set
entire rear deck metal piece
I've got the glass, but it's in the series 1 hatch. I'm going to remove the horizontal glass and replace with vertical glass. I believe the defroster "vanes" work. Needs a continuity check. Nothing appears separated. $75.00 and you remove it (If it breaks, it is still yours).
Are you looking for a perfect panel, uncut for after market radio, or do you need only the mechanism? I have several of each, but not one is perfect.
I have the heater/ac that was dealer installed ... ARA I believe. Buy the glass and take the heater/ac home for free.
I'm in the low desert outside of Palm Springs.
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Finally quitting smoking. Last cigarette just now. Starting Sunday out fresh.
At 7.50 a pack it was just time. Figure extra money better spent on vacation or car parts. Wish me luck.
Congratulations. Money is a practical consideration; but, living longer to spend time with your significant others, kids, grand kids, Zcars of the future, and life are the other long term benefits.
I"ve been there with other family members, who successfully kicked the habit. Some tips: 1. You are changing your life style and, sometimes, your smoking friends . 2. Coffee and cigarettes and gambling (gaming for the PC) all go together. If breakfast is Coffee and a cigarette, then you must address this confluence. Get hooked on tea and a bagel with your morning newspaper. 3. Avoid all places where others are smoking. Yep, if your bother and sister in law always light up after the family Thanksgiving Dinner, then you might decide to celebrate Thanksgiving in some other place or manner. 4. Tell the world you are a non-smoker. Make your decision very public: it raises the price to you for "failure". Your real friends, whether smokers or not, will be rooting for you; the others will celebrate if you "fail" and pick up a coffin nail. You will not want to let your non-smoking friends down. 5. Look for "sugar teats" such as straws or cigarette substitutes as a crutch. 6. Associate with non-smokers; hang around friends that are members of the Latter Day Saints, Seventh Day Adventists, or Johova's Witnesses. If converting is a bit toooo much, then chose to associate with and cultivate non-smokers as friends. As I suggested, you are embarking on a new life style. Get physical: long walks, running, working out, playing soccer... anything that gets you moving. If you sit and think.... you'll start thinking about cigarettes. If you and your significant other like to kick back and have a cigarette together after engaging in sex: then change the pattern (keep the sex, celebrate in some other manner).
Finally, I suspect that the most successful means of beating nicotine addiction/habit is to create another healthier addiction/habit to displace it.
In closing, think for the long term. If you fall, stand up and continue. My wife, who smoked for 20 years stopped only after three attempts. Each one lasted longer than the other. She hasn't smoked now for 30 years.
Again, congratulations.
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i have a 79 280zx na to turbo should i be running a oil cooler with it
I believe Datsun/Nissan thought you should. Every factory turbo'ed 280ZX I've seen had a small oil cooler mounted on the passenger's side, in front of the front wheel, but behind the bumper.
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The thing about shopping my favorite JY is every now and again I find something I don't need; but, it is so "rare", "unusual", or "neat" that I have to have it. I usually delude myself by thinking that I can always sell it on EBay for twice what I paid. Yesterday, true to form, I put the plastic down on something I don't really need, but I think someone out there would like to take off my hands for some trade.Monday I take delivery on a 1964 Ford 390 police interceptor engine. This is out of a genuine "P" code car: a Ford Custom 500, with automatic transmission. Who knows if the engine is any good, but it has a double pump Ford Autolite carb [4100] that looks like a Holley... but isn't. Exhaust manifolds that are true works of art, a bundle of bananas cast in iron. Great looking and they must flow some decent numbers. A block that appears to have cross bolted mains [i can't really get in for a close look until Monday afternoon, but by feel there are either bolts there or some casting nubs. The alternator and water pump pulleys are double belted. There is a very large canister style fuel filter.... same one I recall on a certain '61 HP 390 375 hp thing I lusted after "back in the day".
A lot of rust, but the engine block color is certainly Ford gold; the valve covers are steel and embossed with "ThunderBird" not "Interceptor".
Can anyone here tell me more about this engine. I find a lot of information about the 427/428 FEs, but zilch relating to the 390's.
I understand that it should be a mechanical lifter cam and, I've been told, that the heads should be the same casting as the 427, but with a smaller combustion chamber. Can anyone confirm which head casting this thing should have and if it is, in fact, shared with any of the 427s?
I think this was rated at something around 330 hp.
I would be quite surprised if the engine is not frozen, but I'm a sucker for old houses, stray dogs, and old muscle cars about to be sold for scrap or as a core. Someone has to save them.
Any information would be appreciated.
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The orange mayo that drained out of your tank, was it rust by any chance?
I don't know. Might have been. I really thought it was the color of the oil. The consistency is just oil mixed with water and air under pressure.
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I drained my compressor tank last night and got about 1 gallon of an oil/water mix....sort of like orange mayonaise.
I'm down on oil on the compressor. What do these things use? Gear oil, synthetic, 30 weight, ATF or Power Steering Fluid. I don't have the user manual.
Any help is welcome.
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anyone? if it was the hydraulics wouldnt it not let me start the engine with the tranny in anything other than neutral?
FWIW, when the hydraulic clutch on my 5 speed Cherokee began to fail, I had the same symptoms. The slave cylinder was "ok"; the master cylinder was the culprit. I'd revisit the slave cylinder again and look for adequate throw and then go back on top to make sure the master cylinder does not leak down.
I never had a problem starting while in gear and holding the clutch down; but if I came to a full stop with the trans in neutral and the clutch depressed, I couldn't get it into any gear.
In my case the master cylinder would simply leak down and allow the clutch to drag (semi engage) and turn the transmission input shaft.
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Are you sure you didn't reverse the "IN" and "OUT" ports of the regulator(s)?
First thing I checked. No, the airflow follows the arrows.
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Just remove the regulator. air tools require CFM rather then PSI if you catch my drift. a regulator is more for paint spray guns then anything. Put simply, the regulator is killing the total amount of air, that can pass through it.
Hoov, Most of my tools carry warnings limiting their use to something around 90 psi, but the air hammer really does the job at 145#. The easy and noisy way to massage clearance in the driveline tunnel.
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This is my set up: 1 55 Gal 240Volt Husky vertical Air Compressor.
1 inline ball valve
1 Husky air filter/water separator
1 Husky air regulator.
Connector.
The above is the order in which the parts are installed on the pressure line from the 55 Gal tank.
Pressure at 55 gal tank is 145 psi.
Pressure set at regulator is 95 psi.
The problem is the is inadequate airflow out of the regulator to run any of my air tools for more than about 3 seconds. I thought I had a blocked air line so I connected a pneumatic drill directly to the regulator and hit the button. The drill powered up immediately and then slowed down almost to a stop.
The psi gauge on the regulator holds at 95 psi before any tools are actuated. When a tool is actuated the gauge dead drops to o psi: the tool also comes to a rest. When I release the tool's air button, the regulator gauge jumps right up to 95 psi.
I've replaced the regulator twice: this is the third unit and changing out the regulator with a new units has not solved the problem.
I removed both the regulator and the air filter/water separator and connected an air drill directly to the 55 gal tank. Delivered 145 # to the drill with no drop off.
Reconnected the drill on the other side of the air filter and, likewise, good pressure and power.
I've checked to make sure that the installation of both the air filter/water separator and regulator were correctly installed in that the air flow runs from the 55 gal tank to the inlet side of the air filter/water separator then to the inlet side of the regulator.
I don't think Home Depot's Husky brand would give me three defective pieces in a row. I'm sure I'm missing something, but what?
Help.
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not really sure why you copied and quoted my old post zgeezer, with nothing else added after the quote???!
Sure it's a simple answer...I'm a Geezer and have major short term memory loss. You may note that I also double posted my answer.... . If I could figure out how to do it, I'd delete one of the new posts.
Now where the hell are my keys?
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I bought a HF pot style sand blaster ten years ago. Loaded it with fine sand from local sand dunes (seriously, I live in the desert) and stripped my Z, uncovered little pinpoint rust throughs and converted them to little manholes the size of a dollar bill. Took two weekends and a LOT of sand. Static electricity shock was a major hardship. Running all that fine sand through rubber hose lines in this dry climate creates enough static to keep you jumping: compare with pulling out the coil wire of a running flat head Ford. You will have sand grains every where ... including your Wazoo.
Really fine sand is not easy to locate. The usual stuff found at Home Depot does not work well. The grain size is too big and you can warp/pit the metal; A risk for all sandblasting using silica as the medium. The sand dune stuff I used is very, very fine... think flour like... not rice. If you pay retail for media and are not recovering it for reuse.... you will spend additional bucks.
Cleaned sand from chassis with a combination of an extended wand on an air gun at one end and a shop vacuum on full suck at the other end. Created a perfect surface to apply POR 15, which took about 4 hours, with beer time, and several Home Depot throw away brushes of different widths.
If you live in a subdivision with neighbors any closer than 400 yards and are planning to sandblast your Z out in the driveway or back yard, I suggest that you contact everyone and BUY THEM OFF before you begin work.
Having said all that, I do use this blaster all the time for cleanup of small parts. It has been a useful cheap tool; but if I had had access to a shop that charged me only $250.00; I'd have jumped on it in a flash.
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I bought a HF pot style sand blaster ten years ago. Loaded it with fine sand from local sand dunes (seriously, I live in the desert) and stripped my Z, uncovered little pinpoint rust throughs and converted them to little manholes the size of a dollar bill. Took two weekends and a LOT of sand. Static electricity shock was a major hardship. Running all that fine sand through rubber hose lines in this dry climate creates enough static to keep you jumping: compare with pulling out the coil wire of a running flat head Ford. You will have sand grains every where ... including your Wazoo.
Really fine sand is not easy to locate. The usual stuff found at Home Depot does not work well. The grain size is too big and you can warp/pit the metal; A risk for all sandblasting using silica as the medium. The sand dune stuff I used is very, very fine... think flour like... not rice. If you pay retail for media and are not recovering it for reuse.... you will spend additional bucks.
Cleaned sand from chassis with a combination of an extended wand on an air gun at one end and a shop vacuum on full suck at the other end. Created a perfect surface to apply POR 15, which took about 4 hours, with beer time, and several Home Depot throw away brushes of different widths.
If you live in a subdivision with neighbors any closer than 400 yards and are planning to sandblast your Z out in the driveway or back yard, I suggest that you contact everyone and BUY THEM OFF before you begin work.
Having said all that, I do use this blaster all the time for cleanup of small parts. It has been a useful cheap tool; but if I had had access to a shop that charged me only $250.00; I'd have jumped on it in a flash.
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Well I just talked to a tech at eastwood.. he owns this model and loves it.. I asked for complete honesty and said I may even upgrade.. but he told me that the $279 model is plenty for my application and compressor.
The 1 year return policy is a HUGE plus. I would never use it and return it like 75% of the customers at Home Depot do.. but if I'm unsatisfied.. and isn't how the product is advertised.. return it may be
I think i'm going to give it a go.. with your typical Hybridz follow up.. pictures and even a video of the blasting =)
- problem is I'm cheap.. if I spend $250-300 on having a shop blast the car.. i have a stripped car and thats it.. but with $300 I can strip my own car and walk away with a blaster I can sell for say $200.. or strip future projects.. help friends out etc etc.
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My gas tank is leaking from the sending unit poles where the wires go. Anyone seen this before.
Are you sure it's not the "O" ring , which seals the sending unit to the gas tank, that's leaking? "O" rings are easy to find and replace; the sending unit can be a pricey item.
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I used JCI's mounting kit to install my 5.3 with AT into a early '71 Series I Z. Very narrow tunnel. Only problem was the re-install of the tension bar on the driver's side.
No problem with the rear mount. Perfect clearance. Two questions: have you emailed John with your photos and asked him what the problem might be and have you removed and rotated the transmission insulator? JCI mounts do place the engine and transmission offset to the passenger side.
Send an email to John: he is usually pretty quick with an answer.
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That is a dead ringer for my shifter out of a Mazda RX4 manual 4 speed transmission. I'd think RX 7 or such.
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I know it has been mentioned here and there before, but I wanted to throw out a quick endorsement for an awesome product that might help some of you guys out.
I recently ordered Cunifer (also known as Cuperonickel, or 90/10 copper/nickel) brake and fuel lines from Fedhillusa. The stuff is amazing. It is incredibly easy to shape without any tools, you can do a surprisingly tight full 180 bend without it kinking. Just as an example, when I made the small "S" shaped line that goes from the caliper to the flex line, I was able to bend it to match the original surprisingly easily, without fear of it kinking, and put it together in 5 minutes.
I also recommend if you go this route, to rent their flaring tool. It's a 375 dollar deposit, with about 20/week to rent the tool, I believe. It's completely worth it, I put EVERY brake line needed together in about an hour.
So, if you are looking to replace all of your original hard lines, and don't want to spend $600 on pre-bent replacements, this is definitely the way to go! Fedhill is run by a guy named Tim and his wife, and their customer service is phenomenal. Their website is www.fedhillusa.com.
So now that I just made an infomercial, what have your experiences been like?
I'm about to find out. Copper (CU) Nickle (NI) Iron (FE) [CUNIFER] line is now DOT approved for brake lines. I know of two sources:fedhill usa referred to above and brakequip, which sells nationwide through distributors.
There is a difference in prices. Fedhill sells 25' rolls of 3/8 OD for $115.00 plus shipping. BrakeQuip sells the same alloy for $2.99 /foot. A BrakeQuip hose shop are common in this part of California.
I will use 3/8 [-6] for both fuel and return line. I can bend 3/8 OD tubing by hand to a radius of 5 inches with little problem. However, the tighter bends will need a tubing bender.
The immediate issue for me is whether or not a -6 male fitting can be brazed or silver soldered in place.
A good article on the use of cunifer is here.
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Someone ripped the clock out of that car (literally) but i don't know if they cut the harness or not.
As about 99% of all early clocks don't function, I'll bet the clock out that white 280Z will also be gone by tomorrow.
Did you get the tail lights off that one?
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Actually, I found the answer: as usual for me, simple and in front of my nose. #5 spark plug is a very tight fit. The usual spark plug deep well socket will not work. Found a cheap.... $3.50 T handle universal jointed "bottle necked" deep well socket. The narrow diameter of the bottle necked socket allows it to work.
I'll use a complete set of LS2 wires with a 90 degree boot with a kevlar sock to protect the wires.
If you are using JTR headers with JC's LS1 installation kits... you can't use John's oil pressure relocation kit. The JTR heads hit the oil pressure sensor.
I don't know if GM's oil pressure sending unit is compatible with the 240Z gauge. I assume it is not and will simply replace the GM sender with the Datsun sender... this will require a fitting to adapt the GM block to Datsun male thread.
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Looking for a tach and volt gauge (stock) for my 1971 s30. please email me directly if you have them twista240z at gmail.com
Inlaw, I just looked closely at my tach. Correct tach, but needle has become unattached. I won't sell it. My favorite JY does have a 'late 71 , series II, :)with complete set of instruments. They want $250.00 for all instruments and loom. Includes clock, but we all know that the clock won't be keeping time.
This tach is yellow lined at 6,500 and redlined at 7,000. If you are interested I'll give you their tel # and you can cut your deal with them. I'll be out there tomorrow (saturday) pulling door hinges off that car. If you are interested, I can probably pull them for you and see if the price would be less.
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I've been unable to locate my photo album (ZGEEZER) in the Gallery. I click on "members albums" and see 27 or so pages of photos that seem not to be in any particular alpha/numerical order. The search button in both Gallery and Members does not pick up on me. My browser is FireFox. I am listed as a Member, but I must go specifically to the "Z" tab and scroll down through all other members to my name.
Have I lost all my photos? God, I hope not.
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Not saying that you are completely wrong. You seem to have done a bit more research than anyone else in this thread, however... I disagree with your reasoning on why the rotary engine fails at high rpms...
Apex seals while they are metal, still flex minimal amounts just like anything. It's this flex that ends up putting the middle of the apex seal ever so slightly into the peripheral exhaust port on rotation. Notice on every engine pulled open the scaring above the exhaust port as the apex seal is forced back in from it's flex. I have not done any research on the renesis engine wearing, however the exhaust port is no longer a p-port, and rather a side port like a stock intake port. I am sure this helps the stability of the apex seal a bunch (thus the ability for mazda to release a reliable engine turning 9k...
).You are right about requiring some oil flow modifications to turn higher rpms. And yes these are not all able to be solved using premix (thus the modifications)... The problem is not with the oil pump is not the failing point, but rather the brittle oil injection lines that need replacement like vacuum lines. The lack of oil in the engine causes the metal seals on the metal housings to create friction/heat. This heat will warp the housing causing points where the metal can catch on like the apex seal in the exhaust port.
Also at extended high rpm's the water in the water pump cavitates causing the water to not circulate correctly. Or the belt on the water pump slips causing the water pump to not turn at all which again, no circulation. If the water in the engine can't cool the engine, expansion takes place. The engine is a combination of aluminum and steel which expand at different rates causing the same issue as not letting the car warm up before getting on the throttle. This can be fixed with an electric water pump though.
Even with all this fixed and running an apex seal which doesn't flex as much (ceramic... less weight which means less centrifugal force causing the seal to flex). High rpms will destroy a rotary engine due to the e-shaft (basically a crankshaft for the rest of you) being pulled around as it rotates and flexes in the middle. Imagine looking at the rotor from the side and adding and subtracting camber as the center of the e-shaft flexes. You can see how the seals would not keep a perfectly even surface anywhere... However the good news is the Australians developed a center bearing which supports the middle of the e-shaft allowing tons of rpms!
Last thing to think about for high rpms (besides hardening of gears/lightening and balancing of rotors and e-shaft because all these forces mentioned above don't disappear, but instead get minimized by the fixes, oh and fuel delivery/spark ect...) is the drivetrain. Most flywheels can't handle over 10,500rpms. Anything that turns 9k+ rpms is required to have a scatter-shield installed around the transmission through the NHRA. Also, the balancing and protection of the "3" moving parts in the engine is nothing compared to what you would have to do to the transmission. Instead you would have to have a gear reduction to the transmission. Say a 2:1::Engine:Transmission... Build and engine that can push 18k rpms, idles at 2k... Transmission would seed 1k idle and a 9k rev limiter.
The rotary engine is full of rumors and superstition, mainly because if a mechanic at a shop doesn't understand what is going on, he tells his client what he thinks, and they tell someone else and they tell someone else..... and another mechanic hears about it and sees something similiar and decides it's the same thing as he has heard about... I have talked with even the rx8 mechanic at the mazdaspeed dealer close by here and couldn't hold a legitimate conversation with him cause he didn't know 1/2 of what I was talking about... I have put in YEARS of research to get rid of the rumors/superstition and get down to plain old fact... But I can't tell you much of anything about a piston engine! lol
Oh, how I love this site. Back in the day, I purchased a Mazda R=100 with a very small rotary that had, hold your breath for it, blew its seals. Next purchase same day at the JY next door was a13B with 5 speed out of as sedan... Rx-4, I believe. Racing Beat Holly, front caster blocks, custom header (simple two tubes out 24 inches to a collector) MSD box , Allison LED ignition and exhaust plugs. Nothing more. I beat the living crap out of that car: drove from the "House of the Rising Sun" at Ash Creek, though Beatty, and over to Tonopah (Nevada) in third gear all the way at 8000 rpm before I realized that I had two other gears..... . No torque; just RPM in numbers I'd never seen before. Smooth. Almost no vibration. Loud as hell without mufflers and a nice rasp through a muffler. I drove that car for 2.5 years and a little over 50,000 miles before it gave up. Not seals. Just a "click" one morning and it froze, piece of aluminum in the pan.
Now for the banker's rap. If you have access to a good clean Rx3 for the "right" price, buy it, play with the 13B Turbo II, and when you are through, put all the original running gear back in, polish the stock body, and sell it for a bunch of money to finance your next Toy. Do a google search for Mazda Rx3 for sale and spot how many clean stockers with nice paint (survivors) are selling for 4-11 thousand . Think hard about that figure and then go to Hybridz's for sale forum and see what thrills 6 or 7 thou will buy you here. Other than Porsche, there are few marks around that one can buy, drive, keep clean, beat, and then sell at anywhere near purchase price. Your Rx3 may be one of those. By the way, remember where 5th gear is and keep the rpm down to 7,000 or so and have a great time.
Yes, my DD is a Mazda...Speed that is as Mx5 Mazda Speed. I wish it were my old R100.
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When I search for my name in either "members" or "album", my name does not show up. Zgeezer does not exist in Member's Albums or in Members.
I have no problem logging in or searching in Forums.
I have posted all my Z photos in my "member's album" in Gallery. I can't find those photos, my albums, or even my own name.
Help.
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The thing about shopping my favorite JY is every now and again I find something I don't need; but, it is so "rare", "unusual", or "neat" that I have to have it. I usually delude myself by thinking that I can always sell it on EBay for twice what I paid. Yesterday, true to form, I put the plastic down on something I don't really need, but I think someone out there would like to take off my hands for some trade.
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390 FE FORD INTERCEPTOR P
in Ford V8Z Tech Board
Posted
Actually, I have the .38.... an old Smith and Wesson with a "long barrel", load as hell.
This big ugly is now mine... no going back. For the Ford archeologists in this forum, please help me determine if this engine has anything...cam, heads, rods and such in common with the '61 390 HiPo (375hp) Here are some Ford casting numbers: Heads C1AE 6090A; Intake Manifold C4(s?) 8425A. There are remnants of blue paint on the heads and block. I think, although the rust is really heavy, that the valve covers were painted gold.
That carb (yes, it is frozen) I'm sure is a 4100 Ford Autolight.....and a double pumper at that. I've not pulled the plugs and attempted to rotate the crank, but I did pull the oil dip stick and.... damn! that oil looks clear, just like a new oil change. This thing was abandoned for about 15 years out in the Palo Verde Valley near Blythe CA. Not a cop car. Nothing to indicate light bar or radio. No power brakes or power steering.... back in those days men were real men with hairy arms and parallel parking took skill a good eye, and superior upper body strength. [sorry, I've still not mastered the insertion of photos].
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