zgeezer
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Posts posted by zgeezer
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Does anyone know where I can get the small U-joints that are in the steering linkage? I've looked all over the net but I can't seem to find any information on them. I punched mine out and all the needle bearings are flat
Here are some ideas: 1. Locate and buy a usable used steering shaft and be certain that it fits your application or buy both the short splined end that bolts to the rag disc AND the matching longer rod that is splined and bolts to your rack. There are variations in the length of these two elements, but if you get them matched they are the same length for 240-260- and 280. S30s. 2. Buy an appropriate Borgeonson ujoint and build your own. 3. Try rebuilding the existing u-joint. The ujoint "cross and journals" from the 90's Subaru sedans [Think WRX body style] are very, very close to the same dimensions as the 240. The splines, however, do not match. Try pressing out the the "cross and journals" from the Subaru and pressing them into the Z's yokes.
If all else fails, I have a decent complete shaft from an early Series 1 S30 for something somewhat less than your first born or left arm. If you wish to purchase, PM me and we'll try to work something out.
Here is a picture showing the difference between steering shaft assemblies.
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Use it often and its nice to work with.
Thanks. Now, I need to find a good flare tool.
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My next step is to run fuel pressure lines and return from my 240zx intank pump through the transmission tunnel of my 71 240z to my GEN III truck engine manifold.
The original fuel lines have long since disappeared and I have limited fabrication skills, but great R&R experience. There is a thread here that extolls the virtues of "CONIFER" brake and hydraulic metal lines. Has anyone here actually used this stuff? The website claims this stuff can be easily bent by hand without kinking. I think it is a copper/nickel alloy.
In the alternative, does anyone know of a source for pre-bent steel fuel lines a bit larger than stock with a return line. I seem to remember that there was some talk from a Z restoration group in "Mesa" AZ about producing such a line. I also need the rubber blocks that support the stock fuel line, return, and brake lines.
Any help greatly appreciated.
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I've always thought the 275 GTB/4 was a prettier car
Either way, the sound of a 60's Italian V12 at full song is something that will make your hair stand on end, and it will be something I will never forget.
I attended a small, but very pricey car show at Palm Springs a couple of years ago. On display and, guarded by off duty Marines from 29 Palms was an early Ferrari billed as the first Ferrari sold in the US. Worth "millions". This car is a black sheep of the Ferrari clan because its paternity is not all that clear. Appears Enzo was hard up for cash and sold this vehicle to an american for "lots a bux", but shipped a well used race car with a paint job to the buyer as a new car. Or so the story goes. Here's the view from behind the steering wheel.
Ferrari's are nice, but I'm really partial to "D" Jags with a racing backgound. I think this may have been raced by Lister. If not, still a very nice companion for anyone's hybridz.
Everyone knows that with megabux Ford designed the GT40 to take on and whip Ferrari. They did, but Ford was not the first.
Plain old California hot rodders [Ak Miller, I believe], build a roadster and whupped Eyte tail all over Mexico around 1952 in this car.
I don't recall the engine, but, for sure, it was old fashioned pushrod, rocker armed, American iron [i would like to say Oldsmobile Rocket 88-green in color]. No, this grunter didn't scream: it just got the job done at about 1% of the cost of the Ferrari. The grill reminds me of my neighbors' hybrid pit bu.... pardon me, American Staffordshire "Terrerors":
sort of ugly, but it grows on you.
Now, the best is saved for last. I think this may be a clone of the real thing, but it was done beautifully and this one I'd take.
If you look over the roof of the Z to the last car in the line, you will see the roof of a 1952 Mexican Road Race Lincoln.... also a winner.
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Thanks guys, I am no stranger to do cam swaps LSx motors themselves, but I've always done it on an engine stand.
Now SBC/BBC is another story, I've done dozens of in-car (Chevelles, Camaros, etc) cam swaps with those motors.
Just never with a LSx AND installed in a S30. Hopefully I'll never need to worry about it personally since I did my cam swap while the motor was still sitting on the stand getting re-assembled.
Thanks again.
Here's a small correction. I reviewed my photos and it appears that I needed to lift the engine to allow removal of two bolts at the front of the pan to the timing chain cover. The pan was not dropped, but the engine was raised enough to allow access to the bolts and to pull them free of the timing chain cover. There was enough clearance through the front bulkhead to use the hardwood dowels to hold the plastic cam follower retainers.
Sorry for the incomplete information.
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They would run $25 and include shipping, if there is enough interest. I figure it's a deal, considering a cable bracket like this from Summit is $17 plus shipping, anyway. ;^)
I may just make one up for myself in stainless and take some pics.
Are they done yet? I'll take one if you accept PayPal.
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Miles and I were planning on swapping out the stock cam and valve springs in favor of a '02+ LS6 cam and springs in his 5.3 powered '73 S30 this weekend.
The oil pan has me somewhat concerned since it has to drop alittle in order to get the front cover off. I have a Corvette LS2 oil pan in mine and its damn near resting on the rack and pinion. He has a '98-'02 F-Body oil pan on his and has alittle more room than I.
Anyway, I was wondering if any of you guys have done a cam swap while the GEN III/IV motor while its still installed in their S30 (using JCI mounts)? If so, any helpful tips/tricks that we could use?
Let's keep this thread from going off subject. Please do not post about doing a cam swap in any other type of motor or car since it doesn't pertain to this situation. Thanks guys.
Yes, I have a 5.3 with Johns Cars Ls1 kit. I even used the same cam shaft and springs.
I don't remember dropping the pan at all. I don't think it is necessary. I used an F body pan, so maybe things are different with the 'Vette batwings. However, it was two years ago and age does have its way.
Here is the best "how to" I've read. http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=23 While this is in a Camaro, the process should be the same.
I had no problem. I had nothing in front of the engine. Unbolted the mounts and lifted the engine slightly with a cherry picker and a plate bolted to the heads. Removed the intake manifold and used a commercially available lift plate.
The cam switch procedure is different and much easier that your early CSB. I used two long hardwood dowels to hold the cam followers in place and pulled the cam. There are several detailed write ups on how to do this swap on both LS1.com and LSTECH.com. It is possible to remove the camshaft without jamming the plastic cam follower holders, but if they don't stay up you will be fishing them out of your pan.
The forum at LS1.com is replete with comments about how to remove valve springs. Generally, they don't like the usual levered valve removal tools. The valves on the two cylinders next to the firewall are hard to get to. I purchased a homemade tool that slides over the rocker am stud and is screwed down compressing the spring. I also used air pressure to hold the valves up and out of the block.
If there is any interest, I will post photos of the spring removal tool.
Two hours and that included a burger and coke run.
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Anyone know a clean way to mount just an alternator and mechanical water pump on an LSX series motor? Want to get rid of the power steering pump, and wouldn't mind deleting one or more of the idlers in the process.
Have been searching both hear and on LS1TECH.com but can't seem to find what I want. Do the serpentine belts come in different lengths? Anyone know a source for info on belt lengths?
Everything you want to know is right here : http://www.kwikperf.com/
I purchased both their alternator mount and a/c mount for my truck engine. The parts look very good. The price is right.
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Agreed. I have no idea what you can possibly put in a car to make it weigh over 2 tons. Perhaps lead?
And You'd be surprised how the mid 90's cars compare price wise to the current crop of money pits. Both the W124 and BMW's 5 series are both seen to be a high cost investment, with the repair costs certain to keep it inhibitory. However, if you're willing to do the work yourself, the cost is not much different part for part than many of the other vehicles on the road. The stealerships have just successfully been able to get people to believe that only the dealer has the magic to fix one. A good FSM and it's no different from working on any other 90's era big sedan. Both the german offerings from bmw and mb offer vehicles that imo are going to be substantially more reliable than the current crop of 2+ ton monsters thundering about the streets. The only company I'm not a fan of is Audi, As I cannot see what logic was at work when they decided to put the entire engine, an iron V6 or V8 in front of the centerline of the front axle. Having all that crammed in the front makes for a big ol PITA to work on.
Is far as expensive bills, a friend of mine just had his clutch replaced at the stealership in his 98 eclipse for a cool $1100.00. Pass.
Back on topic, I think there is one good thing here. Twin turbo, 360hp alloy V6?
Who wants to turn it the correct way and stuff it in the Z?
IMHO all Ford SHO's were one of Ford's better ideas. How well do they run? Well, the engine in the new SHO is also in Lincoln's new hot rod so if that Lincoln can outperform BMW, Mercedes, and Maserati's there might be hope in the Ford lineup for us. Check out this piece: 6versus8.com I'm sure there will be comments.
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Ok, I took the 1000 mile trip from PA to AR (for the last time thankfully) in 11.5 hours and that includes refill times, which is my new record. So you take out the refill times and it averages out to around 105 MPH....well, my speedo broke after I welded the firewall back up at the clutch cable so I just cruised at the smoothest, most comfortable speed.
But that's not all, my right heel is swollen and blistered up really bad to the point where I can't walk on it. It hurt so bad that I had to start using my left foot for all 3 pedals. Does anyone else have this problem?
Not uncommon. I understand that it is caused by sitting with your legs out-streached . Weight is on your buttocks, but also along the bottom of the thighs. Reduces blood flow. Eighteen hours in economy class overseas flights will also do it.
Cruise control also helps.
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No, the problem with car alarms is that you hear them every day.
My first reaction is not "OMG someone is stealing a car" but "I wish the owner would shut that $#@*&% thing off!"
The only good place for a 125dB car alarm is INSIDE the car. That way it will be less disturbing to everyone else and make it really unpleasant for someone trying to think about starting the car. Just install a big "ENGINE START" button on the console and wire that button directly to the alarm that fires up those inside mounted horns. That (and the hidden kill switch) will be enough to keep a dufus car thief from driving away.
Ohhhh, I LIKE that. That big old button could also trigger your door locks. Keep that bozo in the car for about 10 seconds and beat the hell out of his ears.
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They would run $25 and include shipping, if there is enough interest. I figure it's a deal, considering a cable bracket like this from Summit is $17 plus shipping, anyway. ;^)
I may just make one up for myself in stainless and take some pics.
Put me down for one also. Let me know when and where to send the cash or PayPal.
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Not really. The Z was an awfully BASIC simple car.
Imported sports cars today have more exotic materials, serious electronic controls, and not to mention great comfort and safety for a driver.
You can't really compare a simple iron straight 6 Z with steel wheels and hubcaps to modern sports imports and simply extrapolate price for inflation. There is a LOT more built into cars today.
Different markets. 240Zs were not really pitched to the Hot Rod or 1/4 miler crowd. In 1970 it was a sophisticated ,technically advanced, and good looking sports car. The only coupes I recall from the era that had OHC, disc brakes, independent rear suspension, or 4 speed and such were very pricey: Those of us that lusted after the big Austin Healey 6, Porsche 356A,B, or C, Jaguar 150 or "E" and could not afford to buy the tool kits for these cars could buy a Z and look good in their company.
Pretty much the same story with the 510. I bought a '70 510 tudor for 1800.00. Another $500 to a USAF loadmaster for an SS head assembly with "SUs" and exhaust manifold and I was ready for any BMW1600 or 2002 I could find on on highway 40 up to Lake Tahoe.
The Z, in my opinion, was a great buy: the "dime" an even better one.
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Around here most home alarms are "false alarms" (due to weather, idiot owners, pets, etc) so the local cops put it on the lowest priority and respond only if there is an associated call. Even 911 operators ask dumb stuff that wastes your time before sending anyone out to check.
Armed intruders only fear armed residents.
More than you might think are adrenaline junkies and like the thrill.
Here's my set up. Two very xenophobic dogs, whose only mission in life is to announce every person that sets foot on our side of the fence. An alarm system that triggers three very loud (in excess of 100db) warblers (one mounted outside on the roof and the the other two inside the house). A mylar film is applied on the inside of all outside windows [reduces entry by brick thowers]; Secured walk in closet with steel framed "art" door with a mirror. Cell phone in charger in closet. Sometime in the next few months, I'll lay in four CostCo cheap computer cameras all wired back to a laptop in the closet.
Two ex-CHP Remington 18" 12 gauges with #9 buck. There is substantial recoil here which I believe should also translate to substantial impact on the other end.
Short barrelled 12 gauges with buck WILL leave a mark on both the target and you.
Finally, practice, practice, practice. None of this is worth a damn if you can't or don't have and implement The Plan.
Finally, taking a shot at the puke as it leaves is not wise: if you hit him in the backside, you'll be answering questions. If it survives the hit, you'll be answering questions. If you don't know where your round is going, you don't pull the trigger.
G from Fort Apache CA
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Thanks for all the input. I just ordered a LS1 LS2 LS6 LS7 Tensioner Pulley and I'm going to get the NAPA 551/4" recommended belt.
To make it work in my case I had to remove a little aluminum from the alt. bracket and put a small shim (.5mm thick) behind the pulley. All seem fine clearance wise on all the alt. bolts too once I stretched the old belt as a trial fit.
Here's a company that sells neat passenger side a/c brackets for all Gen III engines, including the trucks. Check out the driver's side alternator (with and without p/s). Note the alternator is mounted in the same position as Corvettes... above the p/s.
The prices appear reasonable. Anyone try one yet?
http://www.kwikperf.com/products.html
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I think they were in range rovers as well. Maybe the had a manual?....Hang on .......Aston martin used a version of it also. They definatly had a manual trans for it....going to be an expensive ZED!
Douglas
Ok, now let's see what Ford is up to: something on the order of 365 hp in the 2010 SHO Taurus. That motor appears to be the same one used in the newer Jags. Ford 500 v6 and Mazda 6 appear to be the same family. Take a quick gander at the specs for a 2007/9 MAZDASPEED 6. Good healthy HP there. Turbocharged yes. I think the Lincoln is a FWD car: I know both the Taurus and MAZDASPEEd 6 to be FWD. There is North/South compatibility with some of Ford's V6s: the first version of the SHO could be mounted to Ford 5 speed manual using the Van's flywheel/bellhousing. I think there is a thread on this Forum.
I haven't found any information re manual transmissions for this ford varient.
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I don't really like posting a new thread that may or may not go anywhere, but I can't/haven't found much info on this subject, here, or anywhere else. From what I've been able to gather, the AJ34S came in both the S-Type, XJR, and XKR, from about 98 to the present. When they first hit the market, they were 4.0L then later were bumped up to 4.2L. I've been all over the board on trying to compile a list of possible engines, and won't likely settle in on any one style or brand until I actually happen across a decent engine at the right time. I know I want to go with an aluminum block to keep the weight down, and I'm pretty sure this engine is. I know anything is possible, so I'm pretty sure that this engine would fit under the hood of an S30 without much fabrication, since it's around the same size as the VH45 and 1/3UZ V8s that I'm noticing more folks using for their swaps. My biggest concern, actually, is finding a manual transmission for the swap. The only other question I've got, is how labor intensive are Jaguar engines regarding maintenance and reliability?
I'm not sure what you are asking. If you need more information about late Jaguar engines, then, as a starter, look here: http://www.answers.com/topic/jaguar-aj-v8-engine
Early Jaguar engines are heavy, dated, and expensive to repair. They sure looked good and had a great sound. There is a cottage industry replacing the Jaguar 6 with a CSB: both Jaguars That Run (JTR) and John's Cars (Broken Kitty) can tell you why you may want to swap a CSB in place of the Jaguar XK-6 and XK-12. The current Jaguar appears to be a variation of engines used by Ford and installed in Lincolns.
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The seats, knob on gas tank access lid, rear tail gate vents, rear tail lights and flat console all say Series I Z. The headlight buckets on both sides appear to show white, which would be expected for a Series I [white fiberglas, not metal buckets] Check the chassis number stamped into the firewall inside the engine compartment above the brake master cylinder. That will tell you if the title is correct. Don't trust the ID panel inside the door jam. It could be an early '71 also.
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I put back in my heater and fan and need the cables that go behind the center and activate the servos. Shoot me a price to Socal 92673. Thanks. If anyone has ordered these or knows who can make them or had a solution to replacing the entire unit that would help.
I've got a bunch of them. Do you need the levers on the front also? I'm housecleaning and have parts and pieces of three heater and one aftermarket (ARA) a/c for the early z.
Some are terminated with a coil, much the same way one would wrap a telephone wire around a post; the others are terminated with an "offset". The control lever mechanism's all lack the plastic "knobs", but are otherwise sound. If others are interested, I'll take the hike out to my storage shed this weekend and see what's there.
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So, my 240Z apparently had an air conditioning system (dealer add-on, as I'm sure they all were at the time). However, I believe I'm missing parts (I picked the car up from a guy who began an L28ET swap and never finished it) and was hoping people on here could shed some light on this.
The original engine still has the AC compressor and bracket attached (I'll be swapping that over to the L28ET soon). The interior still has the knob under the dash. The drier is still in the engine bay (unattached at the moment, obviously), but I have no condenser and I don't see any lines that would go to a condenser. Surely it needs a condenser to function, right? I'm concerned that the last guy removed the lines and tossed them when he repainted the bay... if that's the case, any idea how much I should expect to spend on custom lines to a condenser (I've got a friend who has extra condensers lying around)?
Any help is appreciated.
And don't bother saying things like "real sports cars don't have AC" or "real men don't need AC" or "my AC is the windows down"... if you're thinking one of those, you simply don't understand my hatred of hot weather. lol
My early 240z had a dealer installed ARA aftermarket unit with a York compressor. The condenser was very small [inadequate]. The compressor was mounted on the passenger side. A 280Z condenser will bolt in as if designed for your Z. The hoses will all be directed to the driver's side, as that is where the factory mounted their compressor.
You need to shop hydraulic repair shops for your hoses. I was quoted $150 for a set of hoses to run from condenser to compressor; from compressor to dryer; dryer to firewall.
I think that was the order. At any rate three hoses, six fittings, all hydraulically swaged.
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My buddy said he'll start machining my billet blocks this week. Sweet.
Try this link to a radiator mounted electric water pump. Very neat and sold in the USA.
http://www.meziere.com/displaycategory.aspx?id=244,381
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If it's a stock dash, then yea, no biggie, but if it's John Washington's design, being copied, in CF w/o his knowledge, I think is a biggie.... right ?
Well, in California it could be a "biggie". If you look at Washington's website, you will note that he is selling two separate designs. He clearly identifies who is responsible for each design. I will give you odds that Washington either purchased the design or is licensed to sell them. His website also contains several admonitions that everything on the site or sold off the site is his intellectual property.
I note that in another context if you wish to purchase, for example, new aluminum ribbed CSB valve covers with the word "Corvette" cast into them, you will most likely purchase them as being licensed by GM. Same with Ford.
Given that Just Dashes will charge more than $500 to recover your stock dash, those reactionresearch.com dashes are a real bargain.
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And unfortunately, moving the engine back isn't really an option at this point.
Same problem for every v8 Austin Healy 3000 swap. Here are two options. 1. Do away with the stock water pump; replace it with a remotely located Minieri (spelling sucks). Their catalogue lists one pump mounted on the bottom of the radiator. The other is to look at the ls4 optioned 5.3 water pumps. GM shortened the GEN III engine to fit transversely into Impala and Malibu SS cars. I've read from GM sites that the crank shaft was shortened a bit on the snout and flywheel. The actual water pump is flat and mounts to one side and up. If they bolt to your block, then you may only have to deal with a shallow pulley. I think it warrants a look.
http://www.hrpworld.com/client_images/ecommerce/client_39/cat_header/747_1.pdf
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I am running an LS1/T56 in my 73 240Z. I used the JCI swap, but hated the alternator placement; it was too close to the mount tower and the bottom of my alt was so close to the steering rack that it would strike the steering rack whenever the engine rocked.
So I created an alternator bracket that put the alternator on the passengers side head and the tensioner on the drivers side head. It works great! I've taken it racing in the local SCCA chapter and put about 150 miles of street driving on the car since the bracket was installed. Here are some pics.
The pics are with the stock tensioner, but you will need to use a Comp Cams high performance locking tensioner like the one seen here:
http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/hotnews/0608ch_comp_cams_belt_tensioner/index.html
BTW: The plates were cut out by a CNC Plasma cutter and the cutter still has the files to create more. If you guys are interested in one then shoot me a PM. This was not an easy item to create, so the cost would be about $175, and you would need to buy a comp cams tensioner.
Scott
There are several providers that offer relocation brackets specifically for the Ls1 and GenIII truck engines. I like KWIK Performance. Look here: http://kwikperf.com/lsx_alt_ps.html
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? on I.D.ing LSD w/ pic
in Drivetrain
Posted
If your only concern is getting power to both tires for straight line drag racing: a little attention to tire pressure may put off for a while the time in which you will have to go to LSD.
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