zgeezer
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Posts posted by zgeezer
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has anyone succesfully Removed the sock or filter in the tank? I could not see it when it was out. a good idea or bad idea? my sock is clogged, i am using a fuel filter before the pump and its just getting a trickle and starving the pump. i shot air backward into the tank through the pickup and it worked fine for a little while, but then after 30 min it choked the pump again. this is an efi setup. thanks!
I just cut the top of my early 240Z tank to install an in tank pump. My intake tube does not have a sock or filter at all. It just runs from the side over the top of a small divider to about 1/4 inch above the bottom of my tank. Just to one side of the drain plug.
You may have sediment in your tank and that is being picked up. Drain your tank and see if that helps.
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Thanks Ron, I feel so much better now that I've done my penance.
I've learned my lesson, I'll never post in one of these threads again, those reading the thread are extra sensitive to spelling and grammar errors.
Wheelman
Back in the Dark Ages before the magic of DOS, my form letters would refer to an enclosed "Self Addressed Envelope" enclosed with my monthly statement. The undercover Grammar Police, posing as two of my clients, sent me rude, inconsiderate, and downright nasty letters suggesting that envelopes are inanimate objects and have no ability to "self address" themselves. The proper phrase being "pre-addressed" and "pre-franked" envelopes. They not only questioned my education, but suggested that my IQ number was probably in the high two figures. I was shocked. Yes, I was also hurt. I changed the form letters. I also became very aware of spelling and grammar: something I thought I escaped when I graduated from high school.
I really appreciate the generally high level of communication skills I see on this site.
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I have a Series I 240Z and both the light combination switch and the turn/high/low beam switch are toast. I need to replace them. What are my options? There used to be a thread addressing this issue with a swap from other Nissan models. I can't find the thread.
My local JY just received in a 280Z with both switches "intact". Are these directly interchangeable with the 240 ? I understand that the 280Z column is different from the 240s, but it looks as if it would be a simple unbolt and bolt back in type of exchange.
I wish to keep the plastic modesty covers .
Thanks for any information.
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The motor is a 2000 out of a Trans Am. I've thought about the LQ9 heads to help with the boost. At this point I have a typhoon intake and 85mm throttle body on the motor. I have a cam I can put in but haven't done so yet. I still need injectors and am considering the size considering boost. I'd like not to do things twice if possible, but it seems thats my norm:) If I put it all together is there anywhere to get a tune that would not scatter the engine until it could be fine tuned? Doesn't efilive have some tunes for starting ?
Thanks
There is a plethora of companies that provide stand alone engine/transmission looms. Even GM is in the game. Spearco has been around for a number of years and has a good reputation. I bought a stand alone GEN I csb TPI loom (break out box, actually) from Ron Francis Wires a few years ago. Nice. Mounted the ECU in the trunk and ran the sensor wires from the engine to it. Clean install. I believe they have a similar unit for the GEN III engines.
Street and Performance out of Mena Arkansas has much experience in GEN III and IV swaps, including looms. Take a look at their website: hotrodlane.cc
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I had a 280z tank to put into my 240Z but after i got it out of storage found its got a hole in it. Sooooooo should i waste my time to find another tank, or did i find a good excuse to get a fuel cell? Anyone know of flat style ones that would still fit under the car?
Also while i was under it I saw how small the factory lines are under the car. I picked up a MSD fuel pump, but am thinking I should go ahead of upgrading the fuel lines. Any suggestions, sizes, etc.
I gave away a perfectly good early 280Z tank last week because it simply did not fit into my 240 as well as the original tank. Unless you are racing or want the small additional capacity of the 280Z, I would suggest you search for the threads on "surge tank", ATL black box ring, and 240sx fuel pump. There are as many takes on "surge tanks", as there are seeds in a Florida watermelon. The ATL black box is slick and clean, but requires a machined ring that can be purchased from one of this site's members. I've purchased a 240sx tank and will cut out the pump ring and mount the 24sz pump and gauge sensor in my 240. They all work. They all provide you with a quick and easier plumbing upgrade
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This is a common issue and there are several posts on this forum that address it; just do a search.
Other than leaking at the corners of the windshield, here are some others. If you have air conditioning, check to make sure the water that condenses on the evaporator coils is directed outside the car. Early Z's with aftermarket A/C will often leak water onto the footwells.
Finally, pull the louvered plate that covers the windshield wiper motor and mechanism. Note that on each end of that cavity drains into a small hole and then down a rubber drain onto the ground behind the fender. If these drains are plugged with debris... usually tree leafs- water will back up and rust out the seam. Water, then will enter the footwells through the seam.
Hope this helps.
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Hi, Can anyone help?..... '73 240 zed with two puddles of water in the footwells - has anyone had similar problems and whats the cure - is the water coming in through the scuttle plate? as now lost the power of my repeaters (water in the loom?)..... any advice welcome.
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i have the same brackets on the right side of your two pictures. now i take it that it'll only work with 280zx calipers/rotors....correct???
The easiest swap is to use the complete early bolt on Maxima brackets complete with their calipers and rotor. The brackets are swapped so they mount in front of the rear struts. The only problem is to reroute your parking brake cable. A major advantage to the complete Maxima disk brake swap is your existing stock alloy 14 inch wheels, such as 6 point stars will bolt on without interference. There must be about 500 postings on the different variations of disk brakes. Do a search and enjoy an hour's read.
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I use it and love it: http://www.por15.com/products.asp?dept=1
I used POR 15 10 years ago, when I sandblasted my 240Z. It goes on easily dries to a glass like finish. Will change color when exposed to sun. Requires care when prepping for paint. If you are sloppy or don't follow instructions, you can expect paint applied over the top of POR 15, to delaminate. If you simply spray rattle can paint over the top, without preparation, as I have.... you can expect paint to delamination from the POR in about a year.
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I have my 5.3 with AT and Sanderson shorty headers installed.
I need practical advice relating to quiet exhaust with little or no rpm related "drone".
My design goal is to have a quiet vehicle with no drone in the cabin at cruise speeds. I'm looking at 2000 rpm -2300 rpm.
Right now I'm considering the following two designs and variations.
Design 1 is 2.25 pipes into one X pipe continuing into a muffler with two 2.25 inlets and one 3.0 exhaust. Tip would extend out even with or slightly short of the bumper.
Design 2 would be 2.25 inch pipes into one y pipe with 2.25 inlets and one 3.0 exit into a single muffle with 3 inch inlet and exit. Same tip location as Design 1.
Design 3 A variation of design 1 would be to use a 2.5 inch pipe, with inserts, to an X pipe with 2.5 inch inlets with 2.25 inch exhaust and then out to the same rear muffler (2 x 2.25 in and 1 x 3.00 inch out).
I understand that the exhaust system is only one part of the complete "quiet" system; the other being lots of sound proofing and dampening material in the cabin. This is well into the works.
Does anyone have any practical experience relating to the effect exhaust tube size, X pipes or straight cross over pipes, or multiple
"in line" muffles might have on "quiet".
"Quiet", I define as stock late model GT Mustangs or Camaros before they are fitted with aftermarket pipes.
I like to carry on conversations with my passenger at cruise without shouting and to enter any cafe after 6 hours in the car and understand that soft spoken waitress without lip reading.
Any suggestions?
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I lived there in 2001, and went back in 2003 for a time. It's absolute paradise.
Places to go:
Manuel Antonio National Park - you can chill on the beach w/ monkeys.
Dominical - Surf beach, not very crowded.
Quepos - Cool town.
Jaco - Surf town - overrated.
Downtown San Jose - Lots of tourist shops / restaurants.
Volcan Poas - Very cool volcano, and right where the earthquake was.
Volcan Arenal - Active volcano, you can usually see lava at night.
Limon - Caribbean Coast - aka Jamaica.
Awesome food & beaches - hot as hell.Tortuguero - Swamp / jungle guides. Hard to get out there.
Playas del Coco - Awesome tourist town up by Nicaragua.
Flamingo - Tamarindo - Panama - Linda - Nosara - Samara - All world class beaches. YOU MUST CHECK THEM OUT.
Liberia - Town at the crossroads of the northwest coast. Cool place to chill.
Anyway, that's just to get started. If you want more info than that, let me know.
Make sure you keep your passports on you at all times. The authorities love North Americans, but sometimes like to "check you out". Change most of your dollars to Colones - everything is cheaper in Colones ... and you'll get "took" if you pay in dollars.
Take cameras and batteries!!!! Those are double the cost down there.
Lots of car rental places... but the roads suck, and they are crazy drivers, so drive defensively.
I'll second all of this. Great place, some of my family have retired at lake arenal. I suggest you take a night time tour around the back side of Volcan Arenal... ignore all the signs telling you that the tour is at your own risk, don't read the signs informing you of the pyroplastic flow that wiped out several small villages. Go to see the glowing rocks being thrown up out of the crater and rolling down the side of the Volcan.... they are noisy and you can hear them rolling down hill. Considering that some are the size of cars or small houses, this can be a real treat.
Close off the night at Volcan Arena by visiting some of the hot spring spas and restuarants on the lake side of Volcan Arena.
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The consumer grade Truck Bed Lining [e.g. Duplicolor, Herculiner...] is NOT the same grade/quality as the commercially applied product that is applied at places like LineX or Rhino Linings. I know from experience. It will NOT hold up as well as one would think....most specifically adhesion [even with properly prepped surface].
I am also a huge fan of 3M products. If you are concerned about quality from a rattle can, go to an autobody supply place and get 3M Schutz [undercoating]. It will need the special gun, it sprays out of a can/bottle, and you dispose of the gun [unless you clean it IMMEDIATELY]. If you don't have a compressor, perhaps a neighbor has one that they will loan you, OR you could rent a small one.
If you want it done RIGHT, that is my recommendation. Not the easiest, not the cheapest, but it will last.
FWIW
I agree. 3M Schutz uses a special gun.... a very simple inexpensive gun, but it goes on quickly and will last a looooong time. Mine is going on 5 years with no separation.... I painted over the Schutz and some of that has separated.
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I have installed a 5.3 truck engine with a/t. I used the Street & Performance full smog engine harness and the GM engine module.
I would like to install cruise control. I have the cruise control module and cable from a 2000 1500 5.3 Chevy truck. I do not have the loom. Does the cruise control module operate separately from the engine control module? Has any one installed a stock GM electric cruise into an s30?
Any help, any information relating to wiring schematics, would be a great help.
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oil pressure sensor the for gauge in the instrument cluster
Thanks, that's one I won't worry about.
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My Lm7 5.3 truck engine has three sensors mounted in the block directly behind the intake manifold. One lays flat of the block and "opens" toward the firewall (this is the cam sensor); the other is on an extension and is the knock sensor.
The third is mounted vertically off the block and appears to have only one pin on the inside. I have no idea what the function of this sensor might be. Does anyone Know?
Thanks,
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Take a gander at this site: http://www.grannysspeedshop.com/ This site is for those who think MAZDA Rx7s would benefit from ANY kind of v8/v6 transplants. I saw an early Rx7 with a SBC swap running long tube headers sold by these guys. They are designed to fit w/i the small confines of all versions of the Rx7 and really tuck up close to the engine. My thought was that those long tube headers just might also clear the body/firewall of the Z. There might be something here for us.
They have a motor mount kit that converts the Nissan VG30 engines to chevy specs. If you have any chassis set up to accept a CSB, they say you can drop in the VG30. Might make something simple for our brothers that are swapping VG30 engines into their Zs.
Also on the site are AC relocation brackets for Lt1 engines. Again, might be usable for the LT1 swaps.
Just a thought. But the site is a great read; particularly the section describing how they built a 4 rotor rotary by combining two 13Bs. I bet that was one loud engine.
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Those of us who are using Gen III truck engines have a number of mounting issues with both the A/C compressor and the alternator. Here's a fairly priced bracket to remount both the AC and the alternator. http://www.kwikperf.com
Happy New Year
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Ok, here's the story. I'm in the Reno NV area for xmas. Did some shopping in local Pull Apart junk yards. I've located two finds:
1. 1982 Maxima with the bolt on rear disc brakes, complete and in excellent shape. The rear rotor that I could see was unmarked, good pads, and a very light coat of surface rust. The "worst case" quotation is $78.00 per side and might be less. These are almost direct bolt on to your S30. With this set you can run all your Datsun/aftermarket 14" wheels w/o interference. This is the easiest way I know to get rear disc brakes. All Nissan parts, so replacements are no problem. I mounted a set of these on my S30 in 4 hours, including beating my AL drums off. There are "how to" threads on this forum. I only had to fabricate a end link to match the parking brake cable ends to the calipers.
2. Not a Datsun, but a 1975 Triumph TR7 with a Ford small block swap, Ford AT, and nicely located Ford 8.8 or 9 inch rear end. The installation is neat with bolt in motor mounts . I don't know how TR7s mounted their rearends, but this looks factory, with coil springs and "ladder bars". Nothing looks aftermarket. This could be a "Mothers" kit, but John of John's Cars did offer a complete v8 kit for the TR7. This is clearly a project car, but it is complete, pretty clean and looks rust free.
If you are in the Reno, Carson City, Sacramento area and would like to take a short pleasure drive on the day after xmas. Post a PM and I'll give you the location and directions by PM. Just one person. I won't send 10 out looking for the same part. There is no finder's fee or any of that stuff. I've just located two rare items that I believe might be of value to some one on this board.
Merry Xmas and yes, it is worth the drive. You do want rear discs on your S30 by New Years, right?
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I've searched this forum for more specific information for mounting a Taurus fan on the JTR radiator. How, specifically, is it done?
An old post speaks of photos showing the actual mounting of the Taurus fan; but that link is dead.
I'm using the JTR kit with the smaller chevrolet radiator. The top radiator mount is from a Camaro. Small metal and attached by sheet metal screws to the Z's radiator frame.
How have you all attached the fan?
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As a rule of junkyard wisdom: hold one wheel solid [not a problem when it's mired in the mud] Scratch a line on the carrier housing to mark the location of one ujoint bolt head or nut. Rotate the free tire one complete rotation, while counting the turns of the driveshaft. Multiply the driveshaft turns by 2. In your case you would get "4" which would be either a 3.90 or 4.11. If it is just shy of two turns it is a 3.90 if it completes two turns it is a 4.11.
This is an approximate reading and you must know what ratios are available.
Estimate the fractions. If all else fails, pull the cover and do the long division from the pinion/ring gear tooth count engraved on the edge of the crown gear.
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Paul is correct, it wont just 'bolt on'. However, LT1 intakes can be modified to work...
http://www.lt1intake.com/files/swapping.htm
Actually, it can be done and is not all THAT difficult. Too much work for little gain in my opinion. See: http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/tpi/178262-completed-lt1-heads-gen1-2.html
One of the Chevy magazines did a step by step explanation sometime around 1994. As I remember, it required drilling water passages into the LT1 head to match the block. Nothing really difficult.
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Impressive work, but im wondering how much its going to weigh...
I guess it could be the spruce goose of supercars.
Or, maybe, the Spitfire or Mosquito, two wooden machines that some believe won the Battle of Britain. Spitfire has the sex appeal, but Goring was more concerned about the twin engine light bomber that could and did reach Berlin for daylight raids "on the deck". Put together by piano makers.
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Actually, I think something very similar to this has been done for lakes/bonneville top end cars. The IC unit is isolated in a tank filled with ice. At the end of the run, the now melted/hot water is drained and the tank is repacked with ice for the next run. It is a h20 cooled IC.
Any top enders out there that have more information?
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Actually it was Banks top end pickup with a cold water reservoir in the bed. Used marine water cooled ICs to make this diesel fly. Here's a paragraph out of Bank's home site:
Intercooling also provides other benefits. For supercharged or turbocharged gasoline engines, reducing the intake air temperature suppresses detonation, just as it does for normally-aspirated gasoline engines. For diesel engines, intercooling not only increases charge density, it also results in lower exhaust gas temperature. Excessive exhaust gas temperature, above 1300º cannot be sustained in a diesel without eventual engine and/or turbocharger failure. Lowering intake temperature results in an almost equal reduction in exhaust temperature. For example, the air exiting the turbocharger on the Banks Sidewinder pickup was approximately 500º F. under full power. Dual air-to-water marine intercoolers, connected to a reservoir of ice water, were then used to reduce the air temperature to 100º F. before it entered the engine. With the intercooling, exhaust temperatures remained manageable for the duration of the Bonneville World Speed Record runs. Without intercooling, the exhaust temps would have been in the 1800º-1900º F. range.
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Mount your intercooler with quick release fasteners on the mounting itself and the pumbing. Buy ten identical intercoolers. Before your drag racing day, submerge the each in water making sure you don't get any water inside the unit. Freeze them into a solid block of ice.
At the track, swap to a new frozen block of ice cooler before each run. You'll probably need a diaper under the cooler to keep from dripping on the track.
That would probably be easier and less expensive then making the refirdgeration unit you're describing above
Actually, I think something very similar to this has been done for lakes/bonneville top end cars. The IC unit is isolated in a tank filled with ice. At the end of the run, the now melted/hot water is drained and the tank is repacked with ice for the next run. It is a h20 cooled IC.
Any top enders out there that have more information?
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I found out that you had to remove more than just the ears to install the 4L60E into my 280. I just a few inches of the original transmission ear bracing and bent it it, but not a ton once the bracing was removed. The trans crossmember mounted up perfectly and didn't have any problems with it. I was the first one to order a JCI kit for the automatic and John said that the trans crossmembers are the same no matter which transmission is used. The difference is for the 240 vs 280, but not the transmission. Anyway, it's all in and I just installed the driveline today, as it was about an inch shorter than it should have been, so John took care of having it redone. All good now!
The JTR manual is pretty explicit, they require the tunnel to be clearanced with a BFH . I installed a SBC 350 with the JTR and late 700R4. I used the JCI kit to mount my LM7 with 4l60E. The JCI kit's trans cross member is located EXACTLY where the JTR member was mounted. The JCI seems to mount engine and transmission higher into the tunnel than the JTR. I had to massage the tunnel a bit to gain additional clearance and I had to massage the floor pan to allow the passenger side rear corner of the AT pan to clear.
It appears by tape measure that my JTR driveline can be used with the JCI kit. I'll know in a week or so when I hoist it into the car for a trial fit. The tape measure seems to think it'll fit.
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Awesome food & beaches - hot as hell.
Losing interest in the Z...what would you do if you had the money?
in Non Tech Board
Posted
Yeah, I think it's a question of passion. My project Z will probably roll under its own power sometime this year, for the first time in ten years. It has been that shop class I couldn't get into in high school. Stripped the old girl bare butt nikked, pounded on the metal, found and destroyed more bondo than I thought possible to hang on sheet metal. Sometimes, no work on her for 3 or 4 months. Shopped every JY for 30 miles around and made a number of good friends: owners, cheap bastards, poor folks, professionals, and those who were maintaining some "old friend" they had had for years. You meet them all in junk yards. If they are looking for the same Z part as you; then, you have a competitor for a dwindling supply of parts and, maybe, a potential friend. After all, don't all great men think alike.
If the thrill is gone, move on to other things. Over the years, I've dallied with '71 Ranchero, a R100 Mazda (with a 13B bridge ported Rotary... what a hot fervid and short love affair that was) that I still dream over, and a number of other new modern comfortable cars: all forgettable. Like life itself, taking on a project is both a quest and journey. In the end, it is more about you than it is the car.
Cull your flock. Make some other Z lover's day and follow your passion, where ever it might lead you.
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