zeiss150
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Posts posted by zeiss150
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Ok ... Lets start over. Tell me what to buy. The more I read and look into megasquirt the more I get confused. I think I want MS2 board 3.0 or 3.57? but I don't think that I can control low impedance Fuel injectors with out "dropping resistors" What the F is a dropping resistor and how would I add that to MS2???? I just wanna be able to run my L28 turbo 440cc low impedance batch fire FI, wide band O2, air temp, coolant temp, knock sensor, EDIS ignition timing, TPS, MAP, cooling fans, and fuel pump. I've even been emailing with a DIYautotune rep and he just confused the sh*t out of me. and he said that it would be 2-4 weeks to build one that would work form my application :-l. Can I just buy a used one that someone moved on from or can I just buy a new one from DIYautotune? I found an MS2 that has an RX7 daughter card with it... will that work????? I HAVE NO IDEA WHAT THE F IM DOING WITH ECU'S HELP ME!!!!! HEEEEEEEEEEEELP MEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE!
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Well that’s what I wanted to know. I already have low impedance injectors ... sooooo I don’t wanna buy new injectors. And I don’t know what dropping resistors are so it would be had for me to install one. I guess I’ll be buying megasquirt II. 🤷🏻♂️
Thanks chickenman 👍🏻
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Microsquirt is a less expensive (less features) version of megasquirt II. it’s about $380 for the ecu with 8ft harnes. I think it can do everything a 350 hp, FI, turbo, EDIS, L28 could need.
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Well that answers the relay question! Thanks chickenman!
But what do you think about microsquirt?
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Hi everyone! 👋🏻 I’m about to buy a microsquirt ecu but I want to make sure it works with what I have planned...
L28 with P90 head N42 intake 70mm throttle body with TPS, MAP sensor on the intake, 440cc injectors low impedance, HY35 turbo 15lbs of boost, EDIS with Chrysler coil for spark, stock 72 240Z tack, wide band O2,
does any of that sound like it won’t work with microsquirt?
Also... should I buy the relay board? What benefit would the relay provide me?
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So I got the 36-1 wheel mounted and my EDIS is working
. But... Does anyone know of an easy way to center the wheel on the damper. Mine is off just a touch and I can see a wobble of about 0.02 thousandths. It's not off by much but at 7k rpms that could be bad. I was thinking of putting a bolt in the crank bolt divot and see if I can center it up that way. I really don't want to pull the damper off if I don't have to. any Ideas?
Thanks, Matt-
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Hi there, need some help. I am building my edis system and I want to make sure that I have my wheel mounted correctly.
I have the timing pointer at 0 degrees (TDC) and then I have the VR sensor pointing at 6 teeth left from the missing tooth it looks like this ...
please let me know if I did it wrong. Thanks, Matt-
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Alright! The bolt holes are M6-1.0 the reason they wouldn’t work for me before is because they were so full of rust and dirt that nothing could be threaded. I cleaned them out with an M6 tap and boom M6-1.0 works perfect! Mystery solved!
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I just tried 1/4-20 nope
why the F would they make a thread that can't be found Why Nissan WHY!!!!
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I can not figure out what size bolts go in the front of the pully. I bought M6-1.00 and that only threaded in one thread. So I'm guessing the pitch is off? are they M6-0.80? there were bolts there to secure the pully for the power steering pump right!? So what size are they
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Thanks Chickenman... I just bought the clips from the ebay link you posted.
they might take a while to get here (coming from china) but for $10... I can wait.
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seattlejester... did you buy the "top slot" or "bottom slot" injector clips? If you have any photos that would be super!
thanks!
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Hi Guys! I'm slowly acquiring all my parts for my L28 TURBO build and I've hit a wall. I can't find injector clips for the 440cc Toyota supra 7MGTE injectors. I tried ebay and got burned on a set of 6 clips that stated in the sales page that they would fit the 7MGTE injectors (it was only $12... but ... grrrrr) Annnnnd they don't fit .
So does anyone know a good source to buy new ... or used... Injector clips.
thanks a bunch!
Matt-
P.S. Shout out to Pallnet... Just ordered a fuel rail from him. Great seller!
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All the plug wires are “new”. Like 10 years old new.
No damage from using the spark tester. Cap and rotor are fine.
Any thoughts on how my engine sounds?
Also... anyone else notice the puff of smoke in the right upper corner of the screen? What’s that about?
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I got some time today and I checked the voltage at the coil. It’s 8 volts with the key in the on position (car not running) and it fluctuates between 8 and 11.8 volts with the car running. Does that seem right to you guys?
I also made a video of the engine reving how does my engine sound to you guys.
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this is the tester at the coil The instruction on the package state that for HT spark it should be at 30. Lawn mowers and weedwackers are 20.
At some point I must have read a thread on how to bypass the ballist resistor because I did... I checked the voltage at the coil and I got about 5v shouldn’t it be 12? Or does it go in 5 and come out 12v. I also check my battery and I’m getting 14.6v when running.
The engine runs exactly the same with the spark tester on or off It stumbles either way. I think I’ve always had a spark issue but I’ve never looked into it.
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What does the ballast resistor look like? Is that the white ceramic rectangle under the coil? Or is it tiny cylinder with a wire coming out of it 🤷🏻♂️
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ok ... here’s my $hitty spark
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Well... I think I’m gonna build this turbo L28 and if it doesn’t work ... then I’ll welcome the 2jZ swap.
I found a new problem today... intermittent spark 😡
i put a spark tester on my #1 cylinder and I got a very intermittent spark. I made a video but it wouldn’t upload.
I have an electronic distributor from an 82ZX... so no points.
And the coil is the original 72 240z coil.
so let me state right up front ... I don’t know anything about electronics.
I suppose it could be the coil so I’ll check that first tomorrow. But if it’s not the coil then it would have to be the distributor ... right???
im gonna switch to ford edis anyway with my turbo mod so I guess I should do that first.
Any suggestions or tips? 👍🏻
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Hi guys. So I did some more testing. I got the engine up to temp and tested with WOT and the results... 100psi in all 6 cylinders 😐.
So let’s recap
1. Valves are adjusted properly
2. Timing is correct
3. Head gasket is good and tight.
4. Engine was a TOTAL rebuild about 20 thousand miles ago.
5. I put about 5ml of oil in each cylinder and got a bump of 20 psi in all 6. So with oil on a hot engine with WOT I get 120 psi in all 6 cylinders.
Should I do a leak down test?
The engine runs and revs fine.
In answer to “Softops” question... I did build it to be a turbo engine. I just never got around to it.
I’m not sure where to go from here. Do I chase this down or do I just say F-it and put a 2JZ in there and call it a day?
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I took a few photos.
I checked the timing and it looked fine except... the bright link was on the 3. Isn’t it supposed to be on the 1?
I know the 1,2,3 are for timing chain stretch but my timing chain has maybe 20 thousand miles on it and I’m pretty sure when I put the head on I had the shinny link on the # 1 position. 🤔
then I started thinking about it... doesn’t the bright link move around with every rotation of the engine🤷🏻♂️
Man i suck at this.
I finished my valve adjustments. They were almost all about .001 to tight.
I retorqued the head bolts to 60 ft/lbs. I think they were torqued to 55 last time I put the head on because I was able to turn it a little tighter until I got a click at 60lbs
i ran out of time to run a compression test so it’ll have to wait till Tuesday.
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Ok in answer to some of the questions...
1. Brand new compression tester ( bought it yesterday new)
2. Engine was stone cold. Oops. I didn’t think about that.
3. I’m adjusting the rocker arms now. .012 exhaust and .010 intake on a cold engine.
4. I did not have the (throttle) butterfly valve open AT ALL forgot about that one too.
5. Yes the rings were gapped and oriented properly 👍🏻
6. I do have a reduced gear starter
7. All spark plugs were out when cranking
8. I’m running SU’s so I can’t disconnect the fuel.
I didn’t think that compression ratios had any effect on cylinder psi? 🤷🏻♂️
My F54 block was bored .20 over and I used new flat top pistons.
Do you have a link to that engine calculator?
Im going to re torque the head bolts while I have the valve cover off.
Once I have all that stuff done I’ll warm up the engine, pull all the plugs, have WOT and try it again.
Thanks for all the tips guys. It’s been a long time since I worked on my L28 and it’s clear I forgot a bunch of stuff.
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Hello! So I got a little bored today and decided to pull all of my plugs and check my cylinder compression. I’m going to be doing a turbo build so I just though it would be a good idea to give the old L28 a once over.
I pulled all the plugs and got a consistent
100 PSI on all cylinders. 😡
al little history on my L28 ...
i rebuilt it about 15 years ago and it has about 20 thousand miles on it. It’s an F54 block with flat top pistons with an HKS steel head gasket (2mm I think) with a freashly re-built P90a head.
So what’s up??? Why 100 PSI???
I mean it’s 100 exactly on all 6 cylinders
HELP!
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Great info Tim. Definitely a way to go. I’m gonna look into buying a used HY35w at my local truck salvage yard. 👍🏻
. But... Does anyone know of an easy way to center the wheel on the damper. Mine is off just a touch and I can see a wobble of about 0.02 thousandths. It's not off by much but at 7k rpms that could be bad. I was thinking of putting a bolt in the crank bolt divot and see if I can center it up that way. I really don't want to pull the damper off if I don't have to. any Ideas?
why the F would they make a thread that can't be found Why Nissan WHY!!!!
they might take a while to get here (coming from china) but for $10... I can wait.
36-1 trigger wheel placement
in Trouble Shooting / General Engine
Posted
Hi ChickenMan, I confirmed TDC, its all good on that end. I have the car running (quite well actually) in limp mode with edis. My biggest problem now is picking which megasquirt to buy. I posted a HELP question in the last microsquirt threat that we were talking in.
Any help with this post would be awesome! thanks.