madkaw

I will do this -eventually. I did pull the center ITB and tested the flow past the butterfly using a vacuum cleaner . Not sure thats an appropriate testing method but the sync tool showed same flow between the two ports. So maybe my issue with 4 is a porting of that intake runner at low flow. At this point I did another valve adjustment -cold- and I did end up finding small adjustments needed, so we will see if that changes anything. Meanwhile I am going to use injector trim to even things up the best I can before Zcon.

I’m using cable control on the linkage. So the issue with them is the cascading effect of using cable on one ITB that has direct linkage to the other two . It causes #1 ITB to open up sooner no matter how I try to adjust . I also have #4 port that doesn’t flow as much air as the rest . Maybe a butterfly issue - slightly off. I would go with rod linkage but I’m pushing it for time to make it to ZCON . I’ve tried syncing the best I can at lower TPS by just holding throttle open with cable adjustment and calibrating 3-6 . Once I’m around 12+ TPS - AFRS blend much better . As far as #4 - I will address this with injection trim . It’s just light cruise where I have to pull some fuel . I’d love to try the rod linkage but I’ll have to see how much time I have . It won’t help with the center ITB . I’ll have to take it off and see about doing something with the throttle plate . Again - it much time for that right now

So I took my Z to C&C -150 mile round trip. Engine ran strong but not right. Afrs were off between the banks. Thought I had a sync issue but I believe I have an injector issue. One plug looked rich and that was the bank running rich. #4 valve clearance checked and compression test is good. I've swapped injectors around to see if it follows. Weird thing is the AFR,s smooth out under more load-its worse under light throttle. It seems more than what a small butterfly sync issue , but maybe not . Used my new airbox also. It does quiet down the stacks. Speaking of stacks can someone buy me some TTT horns ? lol My 50's look to small in the box

Back to synchronizing itbs . #4 reads less than #3 port . Bleeder screws do nothing on any ITB - are they just there for looks ? No blockage I can see anywhere . I can pull the needle completely out and it does nothing to change air flow . I thought previously it was #3 was hanging on the linkage but that turned out to not be the issue . If I got any adjustment out of the bleeder screws I think I could get it dead nuts . I’m at a loss . Been searching on line but with no luck . Maybe cheap Chinese stuff .

So after much searching and an upgrade to 1.6 firmware I was able to control these fans very well . They must have some built in controller that can decipher the low PW signal from MS . Testing at 87hz -which is what MS3 offers - they worked smoothly with no humming or any strange behavior . My GOD they move some air . Still wish I knew how much CFM they really are . The 1.6 firmware allows for a low/partial speed and full speed . Haven’t tried any AC controls since I don’t have AC yet .

These are pullers and I will have them set up to come on with AC . Megasquirt 3X just came out with firmware to control with PW . I think the only option is fans at full speed with AC . I have a buddy that said he can make a controller that will do a better job . I have no idea what CFM these fans are except they are 300 watts and they are SPAL fans OEM

While waiting for my stacks to get printed I jumped on this other project . I ordered AC but my cooling system wasn’t up for the task. My 15” Mishimoto with no should struggles to keep up in traffic . Watched a couple of YouTube videos and decided to step up to some brushless fans from a Chevy Volt . I went with them because they look like they would fit the radiator . It’s TIGHT -even after carving on it for a day . It’s been a learning curve on how I was going to power and control them . Hope this works !

Well while the z was in the back garage I pulled the exhaust off . I had tried something that I won’t do again but I used a square port gasket ( Nissan ) on my mn47 head with my square port header . I was getting some small leaks when I pressurized the exhaust during leak checks . I went back with the gasket to match the head which worked fine before . Also stared at the ITBS for a long time trying to figure out why #3 was sucking more air . As you can see in the pics the linkage was digging into the side of the ITB . Shining a light into the ports before hand did seem to show 3 open a hair more . It was such a small difference I can’t swear I did anything , but I’m betting it’s enough . I ended up just filing the tab on the linkage down . I also figured a way to run my coolant bypass on #6 . I’ll run it under my ITBS on top of the heat shield . Might also try again to run air for a remote IAC . It’s actually getting too busy under the ITBS . Also on the to do list is to find some different cooling fans . I want to run brushless for the versatility and power since I want to install AC . AC is ordered from AC solutions but that’s a month out at least . Cold air box got glued tonight . 75mm Stacks are getting printed out and I’m getting close to finalizing this long project !

Well much rain is forecasted so I’m taking her off the road to attend to issues as in exhaust leak somewhere and # 3 port pulling more air than the others . Of course the only way to see the butterfly in the ITB is to remove it . I think the exhaust leak is at the header flange so that’s a remove project - ugh . I also think I might have pulled off my air box scheme . Taking me a while to get better at forming the plexiglass but the new buck is spot on for the most part . Hopefully I get all these issues resolved during the downtime . The engine is really running good but I’m hoping longer stacks will bring me into the sweet spot . A friend is printing out the 75mm stacks and I’ll probably also do a set of 90’mm . I think I have plenty of room to fit 90’s without impeding flow around them .

Okay so the two tables for VE has given my some more fidelity with the tune . Can’t seem to pull off the two timing tables with AlphaN. Cant figure a way to include or delete a MAP sensor that doesn’t screw with the tune badly. I think with MS you have to use ITB mode which I thought took more expertise and data logs than I have . Runs good with SD running the timing , but I’d like more refinement. Still working on my air box and a buddy is printing me Velocity stacks to try . Also trying to put AC in the car ! I think the IAC idea might be scrapped for timing correction IAC .

I would be completely satisfied with an NA with those CFM numbers !!

Latest updates are more tuning . I’ve now figured out have to get 2 x16 tables for VE and timing . I’ve also converted AFR so now I’m total Alpha male - lol. I haven’t driven since converting timing to Alpha N so that will take some time and knock ears . Weather has been so hot I haven’t driven the car in days . I also still have an issue with one bank O2 sensor . I must have a small leak somewhere that hard to find - maybe underside the header flange . I’ll have to try a smoke test to try and find it . Spark plugs all looked the same though my reading is wacky on 4-6 cylinders . So far mpg has been decent though that isn’t much of a consideration right now .

The thing runs so good I can’t believe they aren’t very closely synced . First time doing ITBS so don’t know what to expect . I think they have been very good . Alpha N is a bit of a learning curve . I think I figured out I how to get 32 table for VE - but it runs well with 16 . I have a good MAP signal and I can see why some would use or try MAP density . I have a 3/4” log and soon it will be 1” . I will try it sometime just to prove to me - ha .

The synchronizer reading will be 5 on the first carb and 7 on the other two . Not sure how much off that really is . If I try and adjust the idle screw on the first ITB , that moves the other two based on how the linkages are overlapped .

I guess I don’t know how that’s done and what it does . I run cable that moves first ITB that moves the rest . The first ITB needs more air but there’s no way I can see to adjust its linkage without moving the others . I hooked up the cable and this engine started and idled great - so no real complaints !