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tyson
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Posts posted by tyson
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Looking for aftermarket 16 or 17" wheels that will fit a 240Z with coilovers.
Would prefer something in a more modern style.
Wheels with good quality rubber will also be considered.
Sorry, NO CHROME OR WHITE WHEELS. Thanks!
I am located in Minnesota.
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Hope the block works for you...Would have been better without that snapped bolt but I guess the price was right!
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I'm in the market for a T3/T4 for my ZXT, and I've been looking on ebay and noticed that these new turbos are dirt cheap.
Anyone have any experience on these offbrand turbos?
I know the no-name intercoolers had a bad rap before, but now everyone reccomends them as they aren't much worse than the expensive name brands.
I'm looking for about 300 wheel horsepower out of my ZX, maybe a tad more.
Please don't reply unless you know....I'm not looking for speculation, just the facts...Thanks!
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Nawz!!!
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Ahh lame =(
BTW, Hows it going Yanos? Long time no see.
I still have that jacket...unfortunatly it stopped fitting a long time ago.
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$999.
God I wish I was still doing a RB26 project, I'd snatch that in a heartbeat.
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My buddy was AT Cedar Falls raceway in Iowa that day.
The bastards didnt send out any notice that they were going to SHUT THE TRACK DOWN FOR 4 HOURS while they filmed the ONE race.
And after the race they had the option of "buying back" their car for $100..
So really, they were racing for $100.
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Well here's my contribution to it all...but I am running an automatic which is in somewhat poor shape, but its my contribution.
81 280ZXT
~45lbs of fuel pressure
Merkur XR4TI/SVO injectors
JeffP's 3" downpipe, and only a downpipe, no cat or catback.
Starion intercooler with mandrel bent piping
14psi
Plugs/wires/MSD and all that other crap that may or may not help 1-5 hp.
No air filter
No power steering or AC hooked up, just the alternator and water pump.
Electric fan
Average ~70 degree day, not humid.
210HP and 235 ft/lbs
Horsepower still fell like a rock after about 4300RPMs or so. Fuel curve stayed around 13:1
I'm putting a 5 speed in soon, and will again be testing it out immediatly after its in.
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I dig it, but leave the hatch green. Otherwise it kinda looks like you got it from a junkyard.
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Quick question.
I'm pretty tall (6'4) and im going to be doing a manual swap in my 280ZXT.
I need to move the seat back and down a bit so that I can drive it comfortablly.
Is it OK to cut out the seat risers and mount the seat straight to the floor? I'm guessing that it would be better to make a support like the original risers that connects it to the transmission tunnel and rocker panels...correct?
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Nederlands is de domste taal van hen iedereen
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Why coilovers?
I like to Rally Cross my Z, and often times the fields that we use are very bumpy, so I'd like to raise my ride height a little bit. But I dont want to be driving around town like I have a lift kit in the thing
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I am looking for coilovers for my 81 ZXT....Unfortunatly I have not really found much of anything.
I searched this site, and found more info than I could ever suck in on coilovers...for the S30, but no info for the S130.
My Z's 24 year old suspension is really really showing its age. its to the point where driving on the freeway can suck, and I need it changed ASAP!
Thanks
- Tyson
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Thanks for the replies guys.
So I assume any reputable performance transmission shop in the area should be able to diagnose/order and install the parts into my transmission? Valve bodies and clutch packs?
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Well I just found out that a local speed shop is doing a dyno day. It will be a dynapack dyno with a wideband sensor. I am mostly tuning to get my air/fuel ratio above 10:1 and below 13:1. I can adjust ignition timing' date=' base fuel pressure, air flap spring tension, and intial setting of the needle in air flow meter. I have never dyno tuned b4 so I am uncertain on what will do what to the air/fuel ratio gauge. The fuel pressure should make the entire air/fuel ratio line move up or down. The timing will have no effect except to be able to run a leaner ratio. The air flow meter needle will also move the line up or down. The air flap spring tensioner should make the line bend or curve more towards rich or lean at high rpms with less of a effect on lower rpms. If all my assumptions are correct then I should be able to acheive my goals. My question is if my assumptions are correct what should I adjust first, and what other ways should I tune while on the dyno. Thanks
Ted Schmidt[/quote']
Well usually on dyno days a lot of cars show up, so that leaves little time for tweaking...Usually drive up, do a couple quick pulls and drive off.
Adjusting your AFM spring/needle will do nothing for dyno results...When you put your pedal to the floor the ECU does not read from the AFM, it just assumes that it is wide open, and it dumps fuel into the engine.
Personally I would not adjust the needle on the AFM one bit. I have 35lb injectors on my ZXT with the stock fuel system, and the only thing I had to do was tighten the AFM spring to keep it from running overly rich at idle and while cruising.
Seeing as how you are runing the starion intercooler, which is a piece of trash (I know first hand, I have one in my Z) and your car is virtually the same setup as mine, except I run a 3" downpipe and thats it. You will probably see good low end torque, but as the RPMs get up there, your horsepower will go down due to poor flow of the intercooler.
Personally since you are probably only getting ~2 runs on the dyno, I would just watch your A/F ratio and adjust your FPR by a few lbs to see what difference it makes.
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So I have a 280XT with 90,000 miles on it, 14psi/intercooler/SVO injectors/3" downpipe (only exhaust on the car right now).
What I always wanted to do, but I dont have the time is to swap it to a 5 speed...hopefully in a year or so I will be able to do it.
Now, ever since I raised the boost from 10psi to 14psi, the automatic just does not hold up, it has trouble shifting under boost, and it slips as well, the shifts are soft and sloppy instead of firm.
I think for this summer I am just going to have the transmission rebuilt and beefed up a bit. One thing is I dont know anything about automatic transmissions.
We have quite a few race shops in Minnesota that deal with transmissions (mainly Ford/GM though). If I bring in my transmission will they be able to source/make the right parts to firm up the shifts and make it able to send the power to the rear wheels? I know for sure they will have to make a new torque converter...but thats the only thing I know about these transmissions.
Any advice?
BTW, I am not looking for just drag performance...while that is a plus, I want to autocross my Z and possibly roadrace it this summer.
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Its been posted a few dozen times before...its a clean car.
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On my ZXT I am running just JeffP's 3" downpipe....So I only have about 3' of exhaust.
With a turbo on the car, its not nearly as loud as you would think it would be. It actually sounds fairly nice once the car warms up, but its loud and raspy during coldstart =(.
Nothing beats the sound of a straight six at 14psi with an open downpipe...I get asked "WTF is in that thing?!" quite often. This spring I am going to have the 3" system completed all the way back, and still probably run without a muffler.
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When I got my intercooler on my 280ZXT, and was still at stock boost I could hear the compressor surge every damn time I let off...Not even from full boost, just putsing around it would surge.
Its an annoying sound, and it can be an expensive sound as well since it will wear down your turbo.
If you arent running very high boost, just get a cheap DSM BOV. I got my BOV and flange for $35, and had it installed for $50.
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I would really just pull the head and start from there, mess with the other stuff later.
You have lost compression, either way the head has got to come off...Within seconds of having your head off you should find out whats wrong. Speculating sucks, its either going to be cheap or expensive, and there is really only one way to find out.
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Well the 2JZ-GTE is pretty much a race motor from the factory. 700 wheel horsepower on stock internals is almost as common as a Civic with a fartpipe on it.
Aftermarket parts are SPENDY though, I dont even want to know what my friend's single turbo conversion cost him.
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DaveH's best time is 9.466 @ 143.01 mph...He frequents our local forum every now and then, as does Super-T Dave
Whats with Minnesota having all these uber fast cars?!
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Tyson, if your buddy was Dave G, he ran the GE block (no oil squirters, less windage supposedly), but GTE internals and made 695 rwhp. I have his motor...
Yep, thats Dave...AKA SuperT to the Minnesota guys.
I coulda sworn he was using NA pistons? Maybe that was on his other motor (injector went bad and he lost a hole during the burnout, still ran a 10 something on 5 cyl)
Here's your motor in action....Note, the smoke is the tires, you can somewhat see the black streaks in this video, in hi-res its clear as day. I think this was the 2nd to last pass the motor ever did...As soon as he got home from the track he started dismantling the truck =(
That truck could have easily gone 9s...too bad his 3rd gear was thrashed making it difficult to shift into...If he still was using the glide 9s would have been a breeze.
http://www.mwwb.com/stuff/supert.wmv
Windows media format, aprox 1.2 megs
P.S. This video is proof to not go to Rock Falls raceway in Wisconsin....They only put down VHT on the starting line, after that its just you and the cold pavement.
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But the pistons are different yes (not the materials, but the compression) ?? Would make the world of difference when tuning for big HP.
Not really, another buddy of mine used to have a 2jz powered toyota truck, I know he sold his setup to another hybridz owner.
He ran the NA block/pistons, and I think he was still tuned at 600 horsepower.
How do I remove AIM as a contact?
in Site Support
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I no longer use AIM, haven't for a couple years (is it still popular?). I especially don't use the AIM associated with my profile (like 8 years ago?). I don't see any way of removing it in the settings/profile pages?
Thanks!
- Tyson