tyson
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Posts posted by tyson
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I am probably around the 230ish WHP in my Z with an auto...and the tranny slips bad. 95,000 miles on the original auto, and plenty of powerbraking at the dragstrip.
Dunno how much torque I would be at with my current setup...before I was making 190 horsepower and 235 ft/lbs at 9psi intercooled and no muffler...Now I just have a 3" mandrel downpipe, SVO injectors and 14-15psi with a aftermarket FPR putting boost fuel pressures around 45psi
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Spend some money.
#1. Bigger injectors
#2. Intercooler...a decent one.
#3. Boost controller
#4. Not sure if you can hit 240WHP on the stock T3, you might get close but you will probably be pushing the limit of the turbo.
#5. Exhaust
#6. I assume an aftermarket clutch.
Wait...did you mean L20 or L28? I just noticed that the topic and the message said L20, so I assume this is not a typeo.
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Sorry you hate me! Harsh! I'm not ready to sell it. It's still in transit! I guess I lucked out, I never seem to get to the good deals in time. I just so happened to look in the classifieds on here and saw it. I was looking at a 9 sec '67 camaro to buy, but decided on the RB after striking a deal with Stony.
Heh, if you still want that camaro, just let me know and we can work out a deal on that setup
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DANG.... I was hoping it wouldn't sell until I could come up with the $$ to buy it....
You arent the only one....I was seriously days away from saying "OK, here's the money"....I was just waiting for my refinance on the house to go AOK at the end of this month.
I seriously hate you....I wanted that setup BAD.....How much do you wanna sell it to me for?
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Exact same? Lets see..
-75 280z; N42 head' date=' TVS, non EGR intake, NO O2 sensor, FOUR speed, 3.54 rear gear...
-81 (for the sake of arguement, I had 3 of them) P79 head, TPS, O2 sensor, LOTS of emisions crap and EGR on intake, FIVE gear, 3.90 rear gear...
I'd say the ONLY thing 'virtually' the same is the fuel system and the engine BLOCK.. seeing as even the pistons changed in the ZX... Even if the ZX's have the same power as the earlier Z's, you can't really compare them.. TOTALY diffrent gearing, suspension, ect. And I dissagree on the weight thing; I'm sure the zx's are a heavier car.
Either way, biased or not, it's my opinion.. I've had 3 ZX's, and now have a 280z.. as far as I'm conserned, there is no comparaisin.[/quote']
Does anyone else see this post as utter nonsense?
Making the ZX sound bad because it has a O2 sensor, a TPS sensor (which the 280s had, as with any other EFI system). I wont even get into the rest of the argument, like weight...some people refuse to look at the facts.
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Andy (Titanium). Since your Z will have a cage, and you are a bit taller...I would test mount them first to see where your head is at.
Since I will be the only one driving my race car Z, I am going to mount the driver's seat directly to the floor (cutting the seat risers out). That way I will have plenty of headroom for when I am driving the car on the street, so I dont have to worry about my head hitting the roll cage.
Heads will get split open from smacking a roll cage, even with the best padding out there.
I am 6'4 though, so you might be able to get by with the stock height.
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A lot of you are very very wrong.
#1. The ZX got LIGHTER...What you are reading under the hood is the MAXIMUM weight of the vehicle, with a full tank, 1 large driver, 1 large passenger and a hatch full of weight.
#2. The ZX got just as much power, what you are reading is the FLYWHEEL horsepower on your 280Z, without an alternator or anything else reducing the wheel horsepower. It is a very innacurate way to measure your real power.
Datsunlover...How can you say the ZX has less power? It has virtually the exact same engine and drivetrain as the 280Z, as well as the same fuel system. I think you are being a bit biased in your car review.
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Just a FYI, I have one in my auto(soon to be 5spd) 81 ZXT and I absolutely hate it...Mainly because of the very low topend that the differential gives me, I top out right at about 100mph (I go through the traps in the 1/4 at 97mph, and right on the edge of redline).
I have heard from a few people that the 3.9 combined with the high first gear of the T5 makes first gear totally useless, the turbo does not have time to spool up before your gear runs out.
I will be converting back to the 3.54 rear end when I do my 5 speed swap.
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I am refinancing this month, and I also got a promotion. I am serious when I say this, that I am pretty sure in a month I will be able to work something out with you.
Hopefully it isnt sold by then
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Having a forum for the RB swaps will be a great help to my project.
Thanks admins!
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That sucks.
I do know what you mean. I am an active member on a local car forum where all the regular members are a pretty tight nit bunch. We all go drinking or help each other with our cars on a regular basis. But a lot of the guys feel the need to chime into other's for sale ads with useless comments. Which does make it hard to sell items.
Maybe you should take the Something Awful approach? Their forum has 51,599 registered members, ~2,000 - 10,000 are online and posting at any given time...So you can imagine the amount of moderation that has to be done for the forum to survive. Their rules are http://www.somethingawful.com/forumrules/
Their most used rule is "These rules are general guidelines and are very flexible." What that means is "Dont be an idiot...If you are an idiot you will be banned". They had 10 people banned today, which is actually a slow day for them.
Now that I am actually close to picking a motor/trans for my hybridZ...your old classifieds forum is badly missed.
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I dont post here that often, but I am usually lurking a few days out of the week.
On the old forum design the classifieds forum was a happenin place, with a lot of parts/cars being sold.
Seems like the users are not taking well to the new system (probably because they are bookmarked to the forums instead of the main page).
Have you considered putting a classified forum back up?
Thanks
- Tyson
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I know the guy who you bought your 2jz setup from....Thats cool as hell its also going into a Z.
I am currently working on a 2jZ project for me 77 280z in Minnesota...I was going to buy his setup, but I just bought a house so the $ is a little low.
I have some videos from him at the dragstrip with the engine/trans
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Hey tyson, what’s your problem? Are you trying to make absolutely sure that you make an a$$ of yourself. You have the nerve to tell people you do not agree with an inexperienced person like yourself to have their heads examined? What is it with all this anger? Does your job suck? Did your partner leave you? I suggest you take a chill pill and stop polluting the forum with your aggressive posts until you learn to contribute in a more appropriate manner. This forum is for Z enthusiasts to share knowledge and ideas, find another place to pick a fight. And please, let this post end. I doubt you have anything new to say
Wow that was one hell of a constructive post.
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This topic has gone so far off the original debate that its not even funny.
Please dont criticize me for knocking the 60 second test....Juan never spoke of any additional tests for the rail that have been done to date, and every test we have heard about is the "whoop whoop" test and the flame test.
I would love to see a test of the rails like I have suggested....Is it nessesary? No.....Would freezing cold have any affect on O-rings? Dunno, ask NASA about their frozen O-ring on the Challenger shuttle. This is a very easy test to conduct, as I have said before it would be the closest thing to actual driving conditions that you could get.
But the rail isnt the big deal here, as it is much easier to make a rail leakproof than it is to make an aluminum hub wear-proof.
Couple questions....
#1. Why havent auto manufacturers gone to aluminum hubs?
#2. Doesnt it worry you that aluminum is softer than steel, and it may wear out over time?
Now I'm not saying that outside testing needs to be done, you dont need to send these wheels to some testing company and have them find the weaknesses in them, for that alone would raise the price on the hubs much farther than anyone here would be willing to pay.
What I am saying is that you should find some ways to test them, and find an enginner experienced in this area, and see what he thinks of them.
This isnt a roll cage, where something else may fail and the rollcage is there as a backup...Also most cage designers KNOW how cages are designed in the first place...they KNOW how to weld metals together and make them strong....If you are going to some backyard mechanic for your roll cage, you need to have your head checked because there is a lot that goes into them, both experience with roll cages, and many years of welding are required to make a safe cage.
This isnt a seat rail where if you need it, something has probably already failed to cause the accident. Again if you are trusting your life to a guy with a $200 welder and a few welds of experience....you need to have your head checked.
If your hub fails at high speeds...You had better hope that you have a good seatbelt, and a good roll cage, and also a little bit of luck on your side. If you are trusting your life to someone with no experience in this field, and relativly no testing on a newly designed wheel hub....you need to have your head checked.
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Well Im glad to hear all of pallnets parts were tested in a freezer and oven attached to vibrators and gauges. So tyson you tested his fuel rail by running it down the dragstrip and you say it held up fine. Im glad you tested before then so you knew you wouldnt be blown up on the way down the strip. Personally I dont give a flip about a fuel rail or a tb spacer. I think you guys expect too much. I also believe I was misunderstood. I think the products should be tested but not to the point of spending alot of money and doubling the cost of the part. I personally would agree to a waiver of some sort to release jsk of all liability after purchasing a product. You would be surprised how many aftermarked companies actually have a setup like this. The thermal expansion on these parts is probably going to be alot less then is being insinuated. The brakes are going to heat up and on a road coarse autox or similar even are going to heat up way more than street use. However only some of that heat will transfer to the hub and only in extreme use will it cause enough change to place stress on the bearings if any. We are not running the indy 500 in our cars and if you are I think you should be buying parts elsewhere.
I got mine from Pallnet, because he has the credentials to show that he knows what he is doing. I am 100% positive Pallnet (and probably JSKs) rail would pass the test that I suggested. What I was implying is that would be an ideal test for the fuel rail's craftsmanship, rather than a 60 second video.
(Correct me if I'm wrong) I also believe that pallnet left a rail pressurized with ~60psi for 24 hours and it showed no leaks. Granted 24 hours isnt a hell of a long time in the life of a fuel rail, but it does show that some testing has been done on it.
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Juan' date='
I would like to point out some things you may or may not have considered in designing the hubs. I speak only from experience as an Mechanical Engineering Student and haveing helped to design aluminum hubs for our Formula SAE race car. First, have you thought about thermal expansion? I'm not too shure how hot the hubs get on my Z but on the Formula car we did extensive testing on them to verify that the greater thermal expansion of the aluminum hubs would not allow the bearings to spin, or cause undue stress on our steel rotors. Also I would be concerned about some popular aluminiums strength vs. temperature. 7075 strength rapidly falls off over 200 F where as 2026 has much greater strenght in this heat range. Also of some concern would be the fatigue strength of these parts for not only do they see reversing cyclical loadings but aluminium's strength does not stop falling off. I am not trying to keep you from using aluminium but just pointing out some areas of concen and design attention. I would be happy to do some Finite Element Anyasis of your design if that is something you are intrested in. I do not know if you have acess to thoes tools or not but I would be glad to help you if you don't.
Thanks and keep up the good work.
Matt S[/quote']
This is the post I have been waiting for....Someone who KNOWS about R&D when it comes to product manufacturing.
Juan, I think the videos hurt you because they seemed pretty on the fly, and also using cheap band clamps at 150psi with a fuel loaded line. The whole "Whoop whooop whooop" thing was pretty corny.
I think some actual tests for a fuel rail wouldnt just be temporary pressure rise to 150psi, briefly touching a torch to the injectors, and banging on it or hanging weights from it....None of these things happen under the hood of the car.
When we run natural gas lines at work, the city requires us to pressurise the line with air, and leave it pressurised at 25psi for a minimum of 24 hours. If someone's rail is going to start leaking, I highly doubt its going to be in 60 seconds of operation.
Anything under the hood of a car is going to be subject to a few things.
#1. Temperature...Both extreme heat and extreme cold (I start my Z up in the winter every now and then, and it gets to -20 on a regular basis in Minnesota) Will the rail leak at extreme high and low temperatures?
#2. Vibration....A few shock tests will not simulate the kind of vibrations that occur under the hood of a car
#3. Fuel pressure, expect that these rails will be run at high pressures, for long amounts of time.
A more accurate test of "Here's the quality in my fuel rails" would be placing a pressurised rail into some sort of oven (I dont suggest pressurising with fuel for it may burn your house down), with some kind of vibration. Leave a guage on it and leave it alone for a week and then check the pressure.
Repeat the process, except in a deep freeze, not an oven.
The reason I am critical of Juan, is it appears he does not know his shit when it comes to making some parts. In the thread I have linked below, Juan is critical of Pallnet's lexan spacers, and pretty much says that lexan is not suited to hold up to extreme pressure and heat, when in reality it is commonly used for such purposes. When we approached Juan in the thread with solid proof of the properties of lexan, he just replied with "here are some of the spacers I make available.
Thanks and enjoy your day"
http://www.zcar.com/forums/read.php?f=1&i=405527&t=405410#reply_405527
Now, for the record yes I am friends with Pallnet and I also run one of his fuel rails. However I do not profit from anything Pallnet sells, and I paid full price on my fuel rail from him (No leaks at 60psi and many trips down the dragstrip). I am not one of his "goons" that will follow him around and defend his company for no reason. I simply believe that pallnet really knows his stuff, and as a longtime automotive tech for Jaguar, he probably knows the reason behind more automotive parts failing than any of us can imagine. On a daily basis he deals with customers doing stupid things to their cars, and the designers at Jaguar making poor decisions when it comes to manufacturing the parts.
I am a strong believer in credentials, and testing of parts. Like I said....Would you let me make the seatbelts in your car with just a little bit of testing done to it?
I am not trying to discourage anyone from running their business and making parts....Quite simply the Z community needs more people stepping up and making them, but the Z community also consists of daily drivers, drag cars, and track cars, and every single one of the owners deserves a quality part that they can trust their life to.
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Hey, this isnt an anti-jsk post....I would personally love a set of good strong hubs for my 2jz project, as it will be putting down about 500 horses to the rear wheels when finished, its a lot easier to find some wide wheels in the 5 lug than the 4.
But, before I put something on, I want to know if its going to break, and slam me into the sidewall at 150mph, then leaving my life in the hands of my roll cage designer (who I do trust).
I am going to have to turn down your offer on inspecting the hub...I dont know a damn thing about how to make a hub, and what flaws to look for, and I would not be able to offer any feedback other than "looks good".
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...And people ask WHY I quit making control arms...
I suggest everyone who doesn't wish to take the chance on ANY aftermarket part start looking into restoration as a hobbie instead. Most of the parts bought through many of the suppliers are tested through beta units and racing...
Mike Kelly
Sorry Mike, but my life is a lot more important than critical parts that have not been tested, or designed by someone who knows what goes into designing the OEM part.
My motto...If you are going to build an aftermarket part...It had better be as strong, if not stronger than the OEM part.
I wont trust my life with someone just saying "Hey guys...Trust me on this one, its safe" Sorry but unless I see some decent credentials, or some testing, I wont buy it.
Here's a quick question....If I were knitting rugs for a living, Would you then trust my skills to make the seatbelts in your car?
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I dont care how many parts your shop has designed, or how long you have been machining....Any dull normal who goes to school for a couple months can make a CAD and run a CNC machine. This is simple machining....This is not a slam on machinests, but I have gone into my fair share of machine shops, and I know friends who are machinests, and I wouldnt want a single one of them designing the saftey parts of a vehicle.
Machining a piece of aluminum into a fuel rail is one thing, since there isnt a whole lot to worry about, but making hubs and such is almost like rocket science, because there are hundreds if not thousands of important things you must do to make a safe product.
I dont think Nissan's designers made $10 an hour in a CNC shop.
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You still havent posted any of your credentials as far as machine work, or design experience.
Are you insured?
I ask this because making TB spacers and fuel rails is one thing....Making structural parts of the car is another. The hub is the only thing between the suspension and the wheel, if it were to fail the wheel may fall off, and it could easily result in a serious injury or possibly even fatality of the occupants, and anyone the vehicle were to strike after losing control.
What kind of testing is going to be done on these parts to ensure the saftey of your customers? Will they hold up to repeated trips to the dragstrip with people running 500+ horsepower on slicks? Is your business liscenced with the state, for if there is injury, the customer's family has a easy way of getting a hold of you?
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Also, you still havent posted any of your credentials as far as machine work, or design experience.
Are you insured?
I ask this because making TB spacers and fuel rails is one thing....Making structural parts of the car is another. The hub is the only thing between the suspension and the wheel, if it were to fail the wheel may fall off, and it could easily result in a serious injury or possibly even fatality of the occupants, and anyone the vehicle were to strike after losing control.
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Are these going to have some corny name etched all over them like your other products?
I was hoping it wouldn't sell until I could come up with the $$ to buy it....
![power dolly[/url'] of course!](http://digistash.com/data/1a04f965818a8533f5613003c7db243d/4251_p43314.jpeg){kind=link}
Supra 2JZ-GTE swap into 240Z (pics)
in Toyota L6 Forum
Posted
I have to chime in since I have a good buddy with an 800 horsepower 98 supra.
#1. He does not run race gas all the time.
#2. If he can afford a 800 horsepower car, he can afford to run race gas whenever he wants (we frequently cruise around in race gas for the fun of it)
#3. He only has 600 horsepower on tap without race gas
#4. It may not have the initial torque of a v8, but if you have ever seen a single turbo 2jz dynograph, torque is very quickly built.
#5. Racing crotch rockets and beating the snot out of them in a 3300lb car is fun
#6. He has dozens of dyno runs at 800 horsepower, a dozen or so strip runs, and a few hundred hard street runs...and the only thing that broke was a vacuum hose.
#7. His motor is still stock inside....he just bought some cams though, hello 8,000+ redline.