tyson
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Posts posted by tyson
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oh his website he says he is using a 2JZ-GTE motor not the non-turbo motor.. unless he made a mistake. Im very big into supras and i know they can make CRAZY power and so can the n/a's but there internals arent as strong as the TT's' date=' theres alot of little things that makes the TT a much more reliable motor and strong motor.
i wish you the best of luck as its gonna be a crazy swap! im sure its gonna be a tight fit with the exhaust manifold and with a hugh turbo.
mike[/quote']
His site hasnt been updated in about a year.
Anyone going to Route66 next weekend? He will be there.
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I listed to him preach and said "WTF....I can spend $5k on a 450 horse v8' date=' where if it blows I'm out $5k.....If I get a 2jz out of a junkyard for $500, all my add ons are external, so [i']when[/i'] engine failure happens, it will not destroy the major $ parts of the car".
$500 for a 2jz? Not a chance. More like $2-3000 or more. There were not that many TT supra's made and not that many engines are in the JY and they are a high demand item. The short block is just under $2000 from toyota. That doesn't include all the manifolds, etc..
If a 2jz blows in your car, you will likely be out a few thousand dollars.
Please don't kid yourself on the cost of a project like this......
I have preached it many, many times. What applies to the RB26 swap also applies to the 2jz swap in many ways. The cost is just slightly less than the RB swap do to more availability of the 2jz in the US.
-Bob
sorry to burst your bubble, but the N/A blocks are just as strong as the TT blocks. My fabricator is currently running a NA block which he purchased complete for $500, ran a 10 second pass this year on a low boost setting.
http://www.supertmotorsports.com/dave.html
There are so many myths about the supra engine floating around that its a joke, people go and spend $2000 for a motor that can be had for $1500 less. Its just like in the 70-83 Z community how people are so quick to diagnose their problem as the ECU or the AFM when a little bit of research would provide a much much cheaper fix.
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Sorry to ask the stupid question' date=' but what is a 2JZ?[/quote']
I think thats the MK4 Supra 3.0 I6.
Correct....a 3 litre straight 6 from a Toyota Supra..
The motor in stock form is so built up, you could bring it to an engine expert and they would think you brought them a $10,000 custom race crate motor
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The NA lower end is just as bullet proof as the turbo lower end.
My friend has run 9s on the N/A lower end, and yet for some reason people still pay out the ass for the turbo one.
He got his current engine for $350
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Oh dont worry, there will be pictures.
Originally this was going to be a SBC project, but my fabricator owns a 9.5 second 2jZ truck (Completely stock junkyard motor...stock headgasket even!!!) with over 650 WHP.....The only real mods he has is a header, a huge turbo, SDS & a NPR intercooler.
I listed to him preach and said "WTF....I can spend $5k on a 450 horse v8, where if it blows I'm out $5k.....If I get a 2jz out of a junkyard for $500, all my add ons are external, so when engine failure happens, it will not destroy the major $ parts of the car".
Current 2jz record on a stock bottom end is over 930 horsepower....Its very common to have a reliable daily driver 2jz with 600 horsepower.
Right now i'm shooting for around 450-500 flywheel.....I need to see how bad i'm going to rip up the rear end with the 5 speed, and if I want to tub it out and go full drag, or make it so I can do roadraces also.
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Well fairly soon here I'll have my 5 speed 2jZ motor ready to be dropped into place on my 280z.
Just wondering if anyone here knows anything about the swap....I know I'm going to have a bunch of custom work ahead of me...Custom header is going to be almost a definate along with all kinds of other fabrication.
Does anyone know of any other clearance problems related to the 2JZ swap, like if I will have to hammer out the tranny tunnel at all, or grind parts of the tranny down....
Nothing should interfere with the steering system right?
Heh....You guys dont even know what kind of money pit I got myself into...Ok, well a lot of you do know!
Also, does anyone know of any pictures in existance of a 2jZ Z?
Thanks....I'll get pics when my engine bay has a Toyota motor in it instead of no motor at all =)
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I have a 81 280ZX Turbo, Auto trans.
I need a couple quick answers if anyone is running one.
Is the ECU the one for a TURBO or a NA? I have heard conflicting stories on this one.
The MAF sensors are all the same correct, turbo or NA?
Are the wire harnesses different between the two?
I would really like to start on this conversion asap, all the parts in the MN junkyards are N/As, so I need to know if I am missing anything. And I definatly want to know if I need to skip out on the local NA ECU and order one from out of state.
Thanks
- T
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I have a 81 280ZX Turbo, Auto trans.
I need a couple quick answers if anyone is running one.
Is the ECU the one for a TURBO or a NA? I have heard conflicting stories on this one.
The MAF sensors are all the same correct, turbo or NA?
Are the wire harnesses different between the two?
I would really like to start on this conversion asap, all the parts in the MN junkyards are N/As, so I need to know if I am missing anything. And I definatly want to know if I need to skip out on the local NA ECU and order one from out of state.
Thanks
- T
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I have a 81 280ZX Turbo, Auto trans.
I need a couple quick answers if anyone is running one.
Is the ECU the one for a TURBO or a NA? I have heard conflicting stories on this one.
The MAF sensors are all the same correct, turbo or NA?
Are the wire harnesses different between the two?
I would really like to start on this conversion asap, all the parts in the MN junkyards are N/As, so I need to know if I am missing anything. And I definatly want to know if I need to skip out on the local NA ECU and order one from out of state.
Thanks
- T
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I have an 81 ZXT with an automatic transmission. Stock boost levels, all new injectors/plugs/wires, exhaust has muffler removed. Runs GREAT, except.
My autometer lean/rich gauge is telling me I am running mid-rich at full power. Not way rich, and not lean.
When I gun it, I have OK power under 4,000 RPMs, but the instant I hit 4,000 RPMS it is like someone turned on the "more power switch". It is a pretty big change in power.
Here is the kicker, I reach full boost of 7.5 psi at around 3,000 RPMs in first gear, so I know it isnt lag.
I do notice it in second gear also.
Not quite sure about third, it is hard to notice, and I havent had much of a chance to play with it yet.
I noticed this kindof after I cut off my muffler, but I am not sure if it was that, or if it happened before or after. I am just noticing it.
Could this be an automatic transmission problem, like that it isnt grabbing very well? I have done a couple burnouts and brakestand launches, I have no idea how an automatic works.
Any help?
Thanks
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I have an 81 ZXT with an automatic transmission. Stock boost levels, all new injectors/plugs/wires, exhaust has muffler removed. Runs GREAT, except.
My autometer lean/rich gauge is telling me I am running mid-rich at full power. Not way rich, and not lean.
When I gun it, I have OK power under 4,000 RPMs, but the instant I hit 4,000 RPMS it is like someone turned on the "more power switch". It is a pretty big change in power.
Here is the kicker, I reach full boost of 7.5 psi at around 3,000 RPMs in first gear, so I know it isnt lag.
I do notice it in second gear also.
Not quite sure about third, it is hard to notice, and I havent had much of a chance to play with it yet.
I noticed this kindof after I cut off my muffler, but I am not sure if it was that, or if it happened before or after. I am just noticing it.
Could this be an automatic transmission problem, like that it isnt grabbing very well? I have done a couple burnouts and brakestand launches, I have no idea how an automatic works.
Any help?
Thanks
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By the way, I want to use a manual transmission, i refuse to drive an automatic!
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Alright I used to be a straight 6 purist for my 78 280, but after seeing the video of the v8 Z tearing up asphault with ease, im thinking about a v8 for a project this fall.
Heres my questions...
#1. Is the v8 conversion kit from MSA any good? I would like around 350hp+ out of the v8, I would also like to keep the weight as far away from the nose as possible, and I dont want the motor mounts snapping loose or anything.
#2. I am worried about twisting my body with the added tourque, but this spring I am welding in a 8 point roll cage from jeggs. I am also adding a top swaybar in the rear, and possibly in the front if it can fit with a v8. Will this be enough structural support to prevent a relatively rust free Z from twisting?
#3. Will the 83Zx 5 speed work with the v8 conversion? If not what is the recommended bang for the buck transmission to use? I dont have a carlift avalible so the least ammount of modification nessesary the better, also as always cheaper is better as long as it works just as well.
#4. I already have very tight suspension, long rides hurt after a while, small potholes knock teeth loose, large potholes are avoided at all costs (i havent hit one yet). Will a good suspension setup on my current Z be enough for the v8? I have KONI adjustable struts, stiff springs, lowered with camber correction.
#5. Where is the best place to buy a nice looking drop-in 350, fuel injection and a supercharger would be nice. What should I watch for when buying a crate engine? What should I stay away from?
Thanks for all your help, Possibly next summer my Z will be on the darkside life of worn out U-joints and snapped halfshafts.
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Hmm I just talked to a guy here at work who is a master welder and he said it would be better to bolt it together than weld it, because when you weld something you weaken it, bolts dont weaken it.
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Has anyone used one of MotorSportAuto's bolt in 6 point roll cage?
I am interested in it for my 78Z for looks and functionality on the track.
If anyone could please tell me how well it fit, if I have to remove any items to use it (door skins). And how well it looks.
Thanks
- Tyson
Thanks
- Tyson
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Has anyone used one of MotorSportAuto's bolt in 6 point roll cage?
I am interested in it for my 78Z for looks and functionality on the track.
If anyone could please tell me how well it fit, if I have to remove any items to use it (door skins). And how well it looks.
Thanks
- Tyson
More pointless posts. Im going to hibernate. Ill be Back!
in Fuel Delivery
Posted
CNC machinery is incredibly accurate....When its programmed correctly. If the operator does not give PRECISE numbers to work with in the first place, it will not give any greater level of crafstmanship.
Also, as accurate as CNCs are, they still do mess up. I have a friend in a machine shop and has to check every little piece of metal that comes out of it for any flaws, and he does have to throw some pieces into the scrap bin because the CNC did not mill the piece correctly.
Are you personally double checking every one of your rails that comes out of the machine? Or are you just taking the operators word that they came out OK?