zguy36

Had an accident in my z, hit a piece of lumber on the freeway and it crushed in my front cross member. If anyone is willing to ship, I need the cross member, both control arms and the tension rods. Thanks! Jeremy

Tony, I didn't want to single you out, because it will probably mean the end of my ability to post on this site, as I am not someone that posts a lot of great information, or has a lot of "worth" to this site and am breaking the site rules by posting this. I used to post quite a bit, but have mostly just enjoyed reading what everyone else has to say and applying it to my own Z. You are the one with "knowledge" that I was writing about earlier, that gets away with anything you'd like to say on this site. You seem to know so much about so many topics, you are well versed and explain things very concisely, and of very great value to this site. What you lack though, is the very humility that you are expecting from everyone else. Your response to my post said a lot of things about how I should feel lucky that you answered some dumbarse's questions. If you look up the definition of "Pompous" as zeiss15 said some people are acting on this site, you'll find the definition to be: "having or exhibiting self-importance, arrogant." I believe your actions meet this definition Tony. I may be alone; I may not, but still feel as though something should be said. I may not have had your experiences with people throwing spark plugs at me when I asked stupid questions, because I grew up with a great man who had extreme patience in answering my questions. My father taught auto shop at the local high school for 29 years before he retired last year. He is also a man with bounds of knowledge like you, but also is a man that will take any amount of time to explain something to someone who wants to learn. Every year he had a brand new class of dumbarse's that he took the time to transform into nearly every good auto tech working in a two hundred mile radius. Granted, many of those dumbarse's didn't learn, didn't want to learn, and remained a dumbarse. These are analogous to those that can't use the search feature and there isn't much anyone can do about them other than remind them that it actually takes work and motivation to learn things. I really think that the bulk of the people on this site aren't in that category though and want to learn and just need to be taught. A man with knowledge can do many great things, but nothing as great as sharing. Learn to get off your high horse once in a while Tony. No one is forcing you to share what you know, you are choosing to volunteer your time and share what you know to those who don't know. Please remember that.

I've been a member of this forum for quite a while, and have noticed that people with "knowledge" get away with a lot more "tone" than people without "knowledge". I agree that this thread has valuable information about vehicle emissions, but really struggle with the way that it is passed down.

I went to a multi layer steel gasket and left the o-ring out of the block. This setup worked very well; no seepage or gasket deformation. Both gaskets suffered some serious detonation though, enough to break the porcelein on the spark plugs on a couple occasions. Young and stupid, playing with a megasquirt and boost

I ran a copper gasket for a while, with an o-ringed block. I had some water seepage, but never enough under normal use to cause any problems. I ended up swapping to a multi-layer steel gasket after I blew out the copper one. It actually deformed (under lots of detontation) enough to push past the o-rings.

I too am chasing this click on initial take off. I also had a bad wheel bearing and found that the splines on the stub axle had quite a bit of play. This would seem like a source for the one time "click" on initial acceleration.

Maybe that is the problem, only spending a dollar on a drill bit. Cheap drills will need sharpened more often and in harder materials you might be lucky to even get them to cut their way through. Harbor Freight drills are junk. I have a set of HSS drills that I inherited from my grandfather, some of which are over 60yrs old by now and only need touched up once in a while. Sharpening a bit on a bench grinder (30 seconds) takes a lot less time than running to the store to buy a new bit. For reference, a real cobalt drill set, 115 piece is going to cost you some money. Here is a set sold by Enco for $510.00 http://www.use-enco.com/cgi/INSRIT?PMAKA=890-9962&PMPXNO=5496847&PARTPG=INLMK32 You can also buy t-shirts for a dollar, you just choose not to wear a shirt that is that cheap.

I do the same thing, sharpen them on a bench grinder. Throwing away dull bits is kinda like throwing away your clothes because they stink. They make tools for that....

I'm in need of a 240 or 280 stub axle and companion flange. I only need one side, but if you have a pair I'd buy both. Send me a message with your price and payment methods. Thanks! Jeremy

picked up all parts from an NA supra for 100 shipped. The area for the oil return is already cast into the pan, just needs drilled out and the bolt holes tapped.

I have a transmission out of an 81 na, this should bolt in with no mods. Double check that and let me know what you are willing to pay for this. Thanks!

Looking for a cheap passenger side stock half shaft for a 240z. send me a message with price plus shipping to 83204. Thanks!

So I can't bring myself to pay the big bucks for a new rear sump pan and am having a hard time finding a used one. Would a 2jz NA pan bolt up with some modifications for the turbo oil drain?

The easiest way to fix the problem, just run 12psi of boost!

I am in process of putting an '88 fiero front suspension into a 1600 roadster. I would imagine that it would be fairly easy to do the same swap into a Z. This suspension is 'self contained' and does not require strut towers. Instead of a strut, the spring is located between the upper and lower control arms, similar to a mustang II. These are also front steer.