240zRacer

hey guys some of you know me from my youtube channel https://www.youtube.com/user/PROJustinSane thats dedicated to building hondas and other LS builds like my old datsun 240z. well we started a new channel that is in a show based format and we will be doing a ton of build offs and comparisons on it. please check us out at https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCz_o2HDcBphPLSPuNKDA27Q and watch our trailer here please subscribe and share

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the transmission is straight forward and all yopu need to so is fabricate a cross member and get the correct length drive shaft. the alternator problem is only if you use the fbody alternator bracket, since doing that mod i have purchased and added the little mount that goes on the back of the alternator and ties it into the block making it even more secure.

so after having a 500 whp ls1 6 speed and a 600 whp ls6 i decided it was time to try something different. i called a some what local junk yard and ordered a complete 5.3 and they gave me one for 500 bucks. after getting it home i found out its really a 4.8.... so after being upset and talking to the junk yard they offered to sell me a real 5.3 for only 250 since they cant take back a motor i tore apart. well i decided to take them up on the offer but still see what this 294 cubic inch little ls motor could do. it was supposed to only have 60k on it but it was the nastiest looking motor i ever saw. and water must have got inside it and sat for a while cause some rings had rust on them and many of the bores had rust. any way this video tells the whole story, please bear in mind that my ls1 and ls6 made those numbers with a 6 speed, when i later took the 600 whp ls6 to a dyno with the current automatic and loose converter it only made 503 so it basically dropped 97 hp from the automatic and the loose converter blowing threw, so you can basically add 97 hp to my current dyno results with the 4.8 to truly get a understanding how hard it pulls. the ls6 went 9.78 at 136 with the automatic and the "503" whp. http://www.youtube.com/embed/onuPyd-OGCA

well i went to the track once and it wasnt to good, the traction for me was poor, i only got to make 4 passes and my best was a 10.04 at 142. so i met my mph goal but not the et. i then took the car to a guy who has the software and scakes to properly set up a 4 link and to corner balance the car, the suspension was way off the center of gravity was half what it should be and the antisquat was pretty high at 128%. we got the antisquat down to 100.8 and the center of gravity to within a half inch of perfect and then we corner balanced it, to my surprise the car was almost a perfect 50/50 off the bat, some folks say the ls swapped vars are nose heavy but the scales dont lie, im almost a dead on 50 50 and all we reallyt had to do was dial in a little preload on the passenger rear to make it with 9 ibs side to side on the rear with me in the car a and half tank of gas, as soon as the weather allows i will be going back and trying to get a 9. one thing i also did since i was at the track last was upgrade the tires from 26-11.5-15 to 28-11.5-15 so between the bigger tire and the suspension being set i hope to hook very well if not even pull the wheels some.

east coast superchargers tuned the ls6. mike at rapid tuned the old ls1

UPDATE.... went to newjersy this week to a place called east coast super chargers, i had them re pin my harness to update it to the 2000+ style and replace the old 98 ecm with a 2000+ style. they also replaced the thermostat with a 160 degree unit. before i went i also added a alcohol injection systems meth injection kit. so the car is officially done all thats left now is to see what she runs at the track when they open next weekend. i am hoping for 9.80s. it went 10.2 at 135-136 on the old ls1 set up and it made 510/545 the new set up made 600/645. i added a video in t he video section but here is a direct link to it, the current dyno session is at the end. enjoy

yeah its ok its winter since i need time to save up for a ecm conversion and new tune. the current computer is a 98 version which is like DOS compared to the 2000 up ecm's which are like windows vista. so i need to have the harness re-pinned for a 2000 ecm and have the new ecm tuned. i could run it on the 98 with just a tune touch up but the new ecm will be smoother and able to better keep up with the new set up.

its alive , first fire up was tonight.

actually us v8 guys can also just turn up the boost:)

yeah the item shown in the last photo is a intercooler.

motor and tranny is in, driveshaft and fluid and shifter done,exhaust, intercooler mounted. just needs intake, rad and a few hoses and wires finished yet.

sure go ahead. and sunny thats fine

more photos, including the painted bay, the minty fresh rebuilt 72mm turbo now with a 96 ar ex instead of the 68 i was using. and a picture of the two turbos i had to choose from for this build.... i think the bigger one would work best dont you? by the way if any one is in need of smoking deals on new , rebuilt turbos or getting a turbo rebuilt contact me.

the plan for this winter was to convert from the 6 speed to a auto and drop the car into the 9s, well fate had it that the old ls1 decided to have a oil pump failure and while it was caught instantly and caused no damage the ls1 was old and tired and in need of a refresh, so i decided to swap it out for a brand new 2005 Cadillac ctsv ls6 crate motor, this of course used my auto swap budget so i will be staying stick for the next season. i also had the turbo rebuilt and changed the exhaust housing to a larger ar to help with the ls6 higher revving and better flowing heads and cam combo. the motor should be in and fired up this weekend and i will post more pics and video as i get them, here is the only photos i have for now, the engine bay before being repainted, the old ls1 and the new ls6, i also am putting in a new stage 3 monster clutch while its apart. the power gain i get from the ls6 should also put me in the 9s in street trim so im not entirely bummed about not being able to convert to a auto. by the way the ls1 is for sale if any one knows of any one looking for one they can refresh, it has arp rod bolts, arp head studs, hardened push rods and ls6 valve springs already installed, it will need fresh rings and bearings and a oil pump. i am located in pa. i will update the thread with more photos soon.

i am running a monster stage 3 in my 240z as well and its a great clutch.

the reason that number 5 and 7 break has nothing to do with the 500-600 whp it has to do entirely with detonation. my ls1 made 510/545 on a very very safe tune and it was a 130k mile junk yard motor that had horrid leak down readings. if your really concerned ad a meth injection kit and have it tuned by some one very very reputable. 600 is safe on any 2000+ ls1 or ls6 thats bone stock and on meth. you can actually run up to 550 on just pump with no problems. if your ls1 is older then a 2000 then the rod bolts should be replaced as they are weak, 2000 and up got better bolts. i just yanked my old tired ls1 due to its oil pump failing and i am putting a new ls6 crate motor in as we speak and it will be bone stock and tuned to 600 whp on pump and meth and im not worried in the least, not after seeing how well the old ls1 held up to countless passes and beatings.

swapping a s2000 drive train into the 260 would be by far the cheapest and easiest way to do it. but to further explain what vtec is so you understand its basically 2 different cam shafts residing on 1 cam shaft, this lets you have a cam profile thats good at low end and midrange for normal driving and then a high rpm horsepower cam when you stick your foot into it. the honda sohc vtec wasnt really about making more power or tq it was more of a economy set up and vtec was only on the intake side only, the dohc vtecs had vtec on both the intake and exhaust. now one common misconception is that vtec means more power but it doesnt your totally able to run the same cam profile on a non vtec motor as the high lobe profile is on the vtec motor and thus make the same power, the difference will be of course all most all cams that are designed to make better power in the upper rpm range have to sacrifice some low end power, thus why vtec is such a genius idea and now widely copied in many other makes and models.

if it has the lsd its worth more but if its a 3.54 open they are a dime a dozen, i have even thrown them away rather then have laying around getting in the way. i sold a 3.54 with lsd a few months ago and only asked a few hundred bucks for it.

yeah they are gsr leathers, i have a walk around video of the car after i finished the interior, i will post it in a minute. here yah go, this was before the solid axle swap right after i redid the interior over and put all new carpet in.

well the old tired ls1 finally has to come out the oil pump quit, lucky for me it did it while i was warming up in my driveway so i was able to shut it off right away, but rather then rebuild the ls1 i decided to go a different route. this is what showed up yesterday. its a scoggin dickey 2005 Cadillac ctsv 405 hp ls6 it will be a direct replacement for my ls1 once i swap a few items around and should gain me around 100 hp over the old tired ls1. i was planning on going auto for this season to get me into the 9s but now the auto swap money went to the crate motor so i will be six speed for the next season but i should still get nines, i was running 10.2s with the ls1. to be honest though the thought of selling the 240 has been talked about by me and my wife as we are moving into a new home next month and we could use the money, but if i keep it i will definitely keep posting updates here for every one to read.

that is a very large turbo, what are your ultimate power goals? i am running a 72mm turbo on my turbo ls1 240z and i spool almost instantly and hit 508 whp on 9.5 psi and 545 tq on a bone stock ls1 with pump gas and a conservative tune, my best trap has been 136 and my best et is 10.24 in street trim and on dots and thats with a t56 with a auto i would be in the 9s, next week the ls1 is coming out and i am putting a Cadillac cts-v ls6 crate motor in it. i am trying to figure out by looking at your set up what is holding you back at only 8 psi, you should be well in the 10s, mine went 10.4 on 8 psi. if you need any help hit me up.

ok another update the car is home so i can finish the odds and ends that i dont need a full blown shop to do, today i carpeted the rear of the car, i was able to use some of the oem carpet but i had to make a few custom pieces as well, here are a few more pics of the finished under side and hatch area. the rear brakes are WAY to power full they are massive truck drums and lock up well before the fronts so i have to install a valve to let me lower strength of the rears a little. any way here you can see the hatch before carpet and after and the under neath. its kinda hard to tell the car is back halfed from the out side and even looking in the hatch only Z guys will notice the strut towers are gone.

wow i would not be caught dead driving that thing lol

update: more progress finally, its been going slow due to money issues, i have been waiting over 2 weeks now for the guy from here to send payment for the stuff he bought so i can finish the car. as soon as he sends the pay pal i will be able to get the last items i need. any way here are pics of how far its come. the pics are not in order in any way. the rear should be bullet proof its a 8.8/9 inch hybrid using a 8.8 main housing with 9 inch ends and moser 31 spline 9 inch axles, im using a detroit true track helical diff and the moser billet pinion flange should have no more rear end issues for a long long time. the brakes are 9 inch drums for a ford truck and are massive compared to the stock drums so it should stop even better. as you can see in the pics the car has had a full frame welded in now as well using 2x2 steel beams. its going to be a 4 link set up and the stock gas tank should bolt right back in the stock location. the tubs and rear flooring should allow me to use the stock carpet over with a little trimming. over all it should be hard to tell its converted from out side the car once done.