colerongo

ok, i took the valve cover off and checked timing chain on the cam sprocket. #1 on the sprocket lines up with the bright link. so it's good. the valves can only hit the pistons if the chain is not on the correct tooth, right? and i took the oil pump off and moved it over one tooth. it said in the haynes manual that you're supposed to line up the dot on the spindle with the hole on the oil pump. that's where it was when i took it off. now it is one tooth away. but it seems to work. my timing is at 21* with the distributor right in the middle. will this cause any problems?

ok, i did what you said. dropped the oil pump and spun it over one notch. but it was too far. 20* was still out of its range. so i filed down the bolt holes in the distributor so i could turn it more. now i'm at 16*. so its working. i just need to do a little more filing and i'm there. is there anything wrong with doing this?

ok, i checked the yellow wire in plug 2. it is connected to a 12v power source during cranking only. is the other yellow wire in plug two (Y A/C signal (+)) refering to air coditioning? if not what is it and do i need it? my car isn't actually running that rich, it's just drenching the plugs before the car starts. then i have to clean them and try again. it takes a while to start and definately doesnt have an oem feel. sometimes i have to turn the key on and off about 5 times priming the engine before i even have any sign of gas entering the combustion chamber than all of a sudden its too much. once it is started it isn't rich. is it because my timing is so retarded and the plugs are getting covered with gas before they have a chance to fire? and about the timing. i don't think the engine has ever been rebuilt so how could the oil pump spindle pin be in one tooth off. i think its stock. how do i set the engine to zero deg? thanks for helping me figure this out. jesse

i have a l28et in my 240z. i have it running but not how i would like it to be. i have a timing light and i tried to set the timing to 20* but when i rotate the dizzy all the way over it only goes to 9*. on my old 240z, you could just pull the dizzy out and rotate it a notch or two over, but with my 280zxt dizzy the shaft can only fit in one way. what's the problem here? it seems to be running too rich and it drenches my spark plugs with gas when i try to start it. i have to pull them out and clean them. any help would be appreciated. thanks jesse

ok, i'm not quite sure where to start. i have been working on my l28et 240z swap for the past couple months. i have had it running but not driving for about a month. as of this morning it no longer runs. when i start the car it takes a while and then idles really rough until i unplug spark plug wires 1 and 6 and hold them about a quarter inch from the spark plugs allowing them to arc. when i do this the idle picks back up to where it should be. but when i plug them back onto the spark plugs the idle drops and it seems as if those two cylinders aren't firing. is it my coil? is it my 8mm taylor wires? spark plugs? thanks in advance for your help.

here's mine, not pretty yet but I like it. the airdam is slightly crooked because the bolts haven't been tightened yet.

I think the coil spring was too tight. i started the car up and adjusted it to where it ran the smoothest. it seems to work fine now. is there anything wrong with doing that? does it mess with the ecu or anything?

Hi, i finally got my l28et 240z to run... and it sounds awesome. the only problem is that it only does when i hold the afm flap open. It seems like the spring that closes it is too tight. If i don't hold it open it doesn't let any air into the engine. I only need to hold it open until about 2000 rpm's then it does it by itself. How can i fix this problem? Is it backwards? or broken? I searched the old threads and couldn't find anything useful. any help would be great. thanks

oh, never mind. the mounting tabs are built into the airdam. i see now. do i have to do anything else to the holes (washers, etc...) that i drill into the tabs to protect them from cracking or breaking? or is the fiberglass strong enough? did you attach the bottom of the airdam to the car with a piece of sheet metal like others have done to keep it from flexing at high speeds? thanks for the help.

i'm not totally sure, but i think that the yw to the ignitor should be from pin #5 not #1. there are two yw wires on plug 2, you have to have the correct one. i don't think you need the one from pin#1 at all. when i go home this afternoon i'll check my car and let you know for sure though. everything else sounds ok though.

riverz, mine did not come with any mounting tabs. i guess i will have to call msa and get some. i have another question though. i have bigger than stock tires and they seem to rub on the airdam. can i trim away where it rubs? how do i deal with that issue?

Does anyone know how to install the Type III body kit? i have the front airdam and sideskirts but don't know how to do it. I want to do it myself but don't have experience with body work. do i use rivets to attach them? where do i put the rivets/ screws so you can't see them? how do i re-enforce it so that the bondo used to smooth the edges doesn't crack from high speed flexing? any help would be great.

is your pump working at all? if its working, where do you not have fuel pressure? before the pressure regulator or after. I had my pump's fuel out hooked up to the rail's fuel out and the rail's fuel in hooked up to the return line to the tank. this made it so that i had pressure until the regulator but not after. I just switched them and i had pressure all the way to my injectors. I don't know what to tell you about the no spark issue though. it sounds like you have everything hooked up right to me. it must be a bad cas. let me know. maybe you should bring it to a mechanic and see what he says.

hey, i don't know if this is the problem with your setup, but i figured mine out. i thought maybe my ignitor wasn't working properly but it is. I had the switched power going from the ignitor to the coil possitive as well as the switched power from the original car's harness onto the coil possitive. they grounded eachother out or something like that and the coil had no power. i just unplugged the one from the original harness and i had spark. just like that. now i have to get new injectors though because half of them are totally f###ed. let me know if you did the same thing. if not my guess would be that your ignitor is faulty.

i am having the same problem. i can't help you out, but let me know what you find out. if i get it figured out i will be sure to send you a message.

hey grayzee can i get a copy of that email? i've been struggling with the wiring for the l28et to 72 240z for a while and would really appreciate it. my email is colerongo@yahoo.com if anyone else has any other useful info on the wiring feel free to email me. thanks

I have an 82 engine with the cas inside the dizzy. when i turn my key to on my fuel pump turns on for 5 seconds. does this mean the cas is good? i have the stock fuel rail so i don't have a fuel gauge to check pressure. but i know its pumping. does someone have a clear diagram or explanation of what wires need to go to the coil? from what i have read on this site i think i have everything hooked up where it needs to go, but no spark. what's wrong? someone please help

hey, this is the first time i have posted on hybridz. i've been reading everything on the site for a couple months though. i'm doing the l28et 240z swap also and it seems i am having the same problem. the only difference is that i have the fuel system working. i think i have the entire fi harness all wired too. i have the green and brown wires to the battery. and the yellow with white wire and the black with white wire to the ignitor. is it important that the coil/ignitor bracket has a good ground? let me know what you figured out about the problem. thanks