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voong413 last won the day on June 28 2014

voong413 had the most liked content!

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  1. Thanks for all the information guys, the different bellhousing was actually the reason why I started questioning if I had to move the location of the reverse switch. Tamo3, it was actually that post that had me question if my bell housing would work. I used the 4speed L2 bellhousing for my swap, and according to the post it looked identical to the 5speed L2 housing. Granted it was never actually stated, I made the assumption the 2 bellhousings were identical. Can you confirm if the 2 housing were the same and if any modifications were done to get the reverse switch to work?
  2. I can't imagine anyone drilling another hole in the housing either, but people have claimed they done it, just unfortunate that no one documented it with pictures. For now, a toggle switch will have to do.
  3. Well I first tested the wiring by touching them together to trigger the light, which confirmed the wirings were good. The reverse switch is spring loaded at the tip, so with it out I bench tested it by depressing it to trigger the light and I also ohm it. My testing lead me to believe that I might of over tightened the sensor causing it to always stay in contact. I checked my theory by threading in the mechanical sensor just far in enough to trigger the light with the car in reverse. If everything functioned like it should, the reverse light would go out when I shift the car into neutral, but the light stayed on which made me believe people moved the sensor forward because the bell housing didn't match up with the new transmission gears and shaft to trigger the light properly
  4. I tried all the suggestion, the switch and wiring tested out good. I even had someone watch for the reverse lights to kick on while I was threading in the switch hoping that would do the trick, but it stayed on out of gear. At this point I'm thinking of just leaving it and maybe fix it the next time I have to get in there or make a switch, but thanks for all the help NewZed greatly appreciated.
  5. I tested all the switches and connectors, but I'm pretty certain the one right behind the fork is the reverse switch. Hoping there is another solution other than dropping the transmission and tearing into the bell housing to make the reverse light to work.
  6. Hey guys, just had a simple question for those who have swapped their 4 speed to the 5 speed 240sx transmission. Did you guys have to move the reverse switch forwad or were you guys able to keep it in the same location? I currently have everything hooked up, but my reverse light stays on. Out of all the documented swap only a couple of guys mentioned in their post they had to move it forward on their 4 speed, but i'm not exactly sure why or if it was necessary.
  7. Have to agree with everyone else here, amazing build. I was just wondering if you had links for the parts you purchased for your exhaust build, more specifically the 3in "Y" divider and the tips. I was also curious if the 3in downpipe required any modification to fit, thanks.
  8. That's exactly what I'm trying to figure out. I pulled the motor and swapped over all the parts at once, including the wiring harness, so I can't really narrow it down to one specific part. I replaced the head, installed new valve seals, upgraded to n42 intake manifold, 240sx throttle body, TB sensor, intercooler, bov, Pallnet fuel rail, and 82 distributor with crank sensor. When I fired up the the new setup, the first 3 cylinders were not firing. I rechecked TDC and realized the oil pump shaft was off. I readjusted the shaft and all 6 cylinders began to fire, but I would get these constant misfire and cylinders not firing. After I readjusted the oil pump shaft I'm also having a hard time adjusting timing. The distributor had to be turned all the way counter clockwise to get timing to 20 degree.
  9. Thanks for the response, I just had the tank cleaned and sealed so gasoline in the system is fresh. The missfire/dead cylinder seem to repeat itself like a pattern. Which is why I suspect it's an mechanical part that rotates or a sensor giving the wrong data to the pcm to fire the spark.
  10. Would also like to add, I am getting fuel, spark, and injector signal at all 6 cylinders. Spark plugs:
  11. Sorry to bring the subject back up, but I'm also having some trouble with my l28et 240z swap. The motor currently runs but very rough, there is a constant miss/dead cylinder. I have been searching for a solution for the pass month and I can't seem to pinpoint the source. Hopefully a fellow z member can point me in the right direction. The last time the motor ran was over a year ago, it ran fine with no misfire or hesitations. Besides having a 82 ecu running off 300zx coil and ignitor, the motor was bone stock. Since then, I have pulled the head off and replaced it with a pick and pull special, swap 82 oil pump and distributor and some aftermarket parts. Current Setup: 1981 280zx motor 1981 wiring harness/ injector resistors/ MAF & sensors 1982 oil pump and distributor 1982 Turbo ECU 300zx Ignitor and Coil Palnet fuel rail Walbro fuel pump Stock injectors and regulator 75 280zx fuel tank N42 Intake w/ 240sx TB & TB sensor Intercooler (12x24) with 2.5 piping Greddy RS BOV Tests: Compression: all cylinders between 130- 137psi Cylinder Leak Down: @ 35psi, all 6 cylinders lost about 5 Psi Fuel Gauge: 35psi Vacuum: Fluctuates rapidly between 14-17 @ idle When I have my timing light on number 1 wire, I get a steady pulsating light then a slight glitch/miss Can someone confirm that the oil pump shaft and distributor is correct? Timing is at 20degreee with distributor cranked all the way counter clockwise. Spark plugs, cap, rotor, and wires are brand new. Distributor cranked all the way counter clockwise, does not line up with number 1 wire. Can someone also confirm that I have the 300zx coil and ignitor connected properly? At the T connector the blue wire goes to the top of the T
  12. My FelPro didnt come with that gasket either. Think that might actually be for the distrubutor?
  13. I made the mistake of leaving the spacer on when I converted to a manual and ended up needing a new flywheel and starter. The spacer was enough for the starter to slip and chip both gears. I originally thought I have removed the spacer, but apparently there was 2. One in front of the flywheel and one behind. I also had the same issue of having a hard time making the slave fit, by opening the bleed screw I was able to get enough clearance.
  14. I can also confirm the use of a 16mm bit to enlarge the shift rod hole. But regarding the driveline I have found different answers to the correct length. I had my driveline shortened 2in before realizing it may have been shortened too much. Over 1in of the input shaft was exposed when mounted. After more research I believe the variation in driveline may be due to the differnce of using the "cover-dust, sleeve yoke" and not using it. I'm currently still working on my swap and interested in knowing more measurements also. Another issue I encounter with the swap is finding the correct combination of throwout bearing collar, bearing, and flywheel.
  15. I had the same issue when I did my 81 l28et swap, it turned out being bad ground, faulty ignitor coil and loose wiring to my tps, for me anyways. I'm also currently using a 83 ecu with an 81 wiring harness with the dropping resisters still plugged in.
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