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Art Nadel

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About Art Nadel

  • Birthday 06/12/1946

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  1. Can see how a newer disc inside the distributor might be a benefit, but cannot see how that alone allows you to get rid of the flapper. The flapper AFM is evil and must be punished. Art
  2. Does anyone know the ID of those fittings which are shown in Lowdown's orginal post? For that matter, what is the ID of the oil galley in the block? Seems to me we need to keep the ID of the fittings at least as big as galley ID, or risk reducing flow. Since the fittings are short, provided thier ID is not less than the galley ID should not be a problem. Would not want the hose ID to be as small as the galley ID because of the long run of hose. Art
  3. John, Always appreciate your comments. Am installing a "junkyard" L28ET in my 280ZXT to replace my engine which failed rod bearing. What do you think about putting synthetic into a high milage engine with unkonwn history? Saw it run before it was removed. Oil press good, compression very good and even. Now have done about 500 laps at Big WSIR and was down to mid 1:41 before the failure. Art
  4. Paul Thanks for the input. Good points. If and when I re install the Schnieder will be alert to those issues. But some locals have commented that they also found the Schnider set up noisey, so am wondering if there is too much ramp angle.
  5. Related issue. Valve Clatter. My L28ET with 2 1/2 " straight thru exhaust, manual boost control set at 14 PSI steady state at full power, stock injectors, adjustable FPR, Jim Wolf ECU, and PWR liquid to air IC, gained 20 RWHP on dyno by installing Schnider Cam and kit including the proper lash spacers properly fitted. HP 260 and Torque 310 Ft Lbs. with Schnider. Also was running more freely in upper RPM range, to 7,000. But was constanly having to reset the valve lash because of noise. A real pain. Tried all sorts of different clearance settings and could quiet it down, but before long the clatter would start again. The old high milage engine finally gave up, and so when I intalled a fresh long block, ( P90 head) stayed with the stock turbo cam. Set aside the head with the Schnider to deal with later. I do not make as much power now, and no point reving beyond 6500, but at least do not have to constantly remove the cam cover and spend lots of time restting lash. Any one care to comment on this? Art
  6. I also had an Automatic 81 280ZX and put a five speed in. Since I installed a Jim Wolfe ECU when it was still auto. They sell different part number ECUs for auto or manual. Contacted Wolfe to find out if it matters. They told me that the difference has to do with idle speed, and if I am happy with the way she idles, I am okay. It does and I am. I have a stock ECU as well as the Wolfe modified unit, which is not cheap. No difference whatsoever on the dyno. And frankly cannot feel any difference driving. Go figure. Art
  7. Related question. Is it still every man for himself to fabricate 3 inch turbo down pipe for an S130 or does some vendor sell them? Art
  8. Tony Thanks. I suspected the "Five O" web site 300 cc number for the stock turbo injectors was bogus, which you confirmed. Therefore the correct apples to apples comparison is 260 cc for stock vs. 370 cc for the RCs, both at 100% duty cycle. Of course no one would run any injector at 100%. But unless you compare different injector rates at the same duty cycled and pressure, the comparison is not valid. Art
  9. On second thought, there was one more thing I did when I converted to CAS wheel dizzy. Look on the side of the dizzy, low. You will see an electical spade connector. Run a good ground to that. Not 100% sure about it but I heard that the CAS wheel has an up and down side. So if the ground wire does not fix your problem, try flipping it over. Finally, make sure your distributor cap and rotor are in good condition. If you take the rotor off, be careful about the screw which holds it in postion. Mine fell out on the track at Laguna Seca and the engine promply started to run very funky. No permanent damage, the shaft just spun but the rotor did not keep up with it. Now I locktite that screw any time I service the rotor. Will be interested to learn if you solve your problem. Good luck, Art
  10. RC rates this injector at 370 cc static, at 43 PSI, which I interpret as wide open flow rate, or 100% duty cyle. The stock 280zx Turbo injectors are usually spoken of as 260 cc. But I think that rate of flow is at 80 % duty cycle. Five O rates those 260 cc units at 300 cc open. So it seems the RC 370 cc units only add about 70 cc per injector over the stock turbo injectors. Does anyone disagree with the above? Anyone care to guess the RWHP the RC 370 cc unit would support? Art this analyssi? analysii yDo oourrcvvat motor I havefosusually refer to as 260 cc unitar whcih distguesueswiARAny one
  11. I also have an 81 280ZXT and it ran fine with the stock crank trigger sensor. Got a newer 82 or 83 dizzy with the CAS wheel inside the dizzy, and just put it in, pluged it in, and all runs great. The stock electrical connector on the newer dizzy plugs into the orginal harness just like the orginal crank trigger did. Just plugged it in and drove away. I did the change so I can later install the MegaSquirt which I am told needs the distributor wheel trigger, but for some reason will not work with the 81 crank trigger. Why that is true I do not know, but there you are. NEW QUESTION FOR THE BRIAN TRUST- About the EGR Before and after the distributor change, from time to time the idle would get funky (techincal term) and vacum would not be as high. Eventually she would clear up and idle good again, and vacum would come up. When the idle was funky, there was no ill effect on full power or cruise. Had to wait unitl the idle was misbehaving to trouble shoot. Found that unplugging the vacum hose to the EGR fixed the funky idle. Now here is my qustion. Aside from the fact that it makes more polution with the EGR disabled, are there any long term bad side affects from running this way? Like will the tube to the down pipe rust out? Have a wide band O2 sensor, and G-tech and with the EGR disconnected all is well and she make just as much power as ever. Art
  12. I ran 50/50 mix on my L28ET with great results prior to installing inter cooler. After the IC install, left the injection system operatiing with same injection point, just upstream of TB which of course is downstream of the IC. Kept the injection for the same reason you stated; insurance. Ran into an unusal problem. Had a valve hang up. Took the head off and found several valves stems had rust and one was totally jamed. So disconnected the injection. Unscientific guess is that the much cooler air charge with the IC installed, failed to vapourize the water alc mix. They do not recommend injecting upstream of the the IC, not sure why. I guess I should have reduced the amount of injection in three ways: Reduce the injection pressure, install more restrictive nozzle, and raise the boost pressure trigger to a higher level. Was set to come on at 6 PSI and I boost to 15 PSI. But after that nasty problem, am just not using the injection any longer. I like the water injection concept. Would use it again, but not unless I had stainless valves, and again would reduce the amount of injection volume considerably.
  13. Gents, Looking for a thread about which oil to run in the Turbo B-W T5 gearbox, and found this thread. Several guys who have used the box. Installed one from an 82 into my 81 ZX Turbo, and am very happy. But just learned it should have ATF in it. I did not know, and have been running Red LIne syn gear box lube. How much trouble am I in. Should I leave it alone, or just drain and replace with ATF? If I replace, do I need to do it several times to get all traces of the gear lube out? Thanks Art
  14. Oh man, that would really reduce the clearance under the car. One good whack and you would have fuel all over the place. Art
  15. So how and where do you install that nifty gadget. It is not clear to me. Art
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