93anthracite

EXCELLENT! That is exactly what I wanted! Why couldn't I find that before making myself looking dumb?

OK, so I'm fairly new here, though I've been lurking a while. One thing I just can't seem to grasp despite searching a lot, is a definition of all the L series blocks and heads floating around. N42, E88, P90, blah blah . Can somebody point me in the direction of a listing of all of these so I can have a reference point. Also, is there a way to identify them so I can determine what I have in my Z? Finally, can you give me an idea of the benefits of them? BTW, I do understand the classing of the L blocks (L24, L26, L28ET, etc.), but I keep seeing other numbers pointing toward specific blocks (I'll try to find an example). Thanks for your help!!

wow, this is awesome! Just got a Z, want to build it as a track car, and eagerly anticipating the results of this test. Do you guys need any more donations?

If you're running a piston caliper off of a mkIV supra, then I bet they belong to an NA. The TTs had 4 pistons on front and 2 piston rears. You'll also need 17s to clear the TT calipers, if anybody is considering this option.. There are definitely better, lighter, and cheaper kits out there, but those brakes truly are amazing. I've been HPDE'ing a 91 240sx, gutted (2600lbs), with a full 300zxTT brake system with race pads for the past couple of years. I took my 93 supra out recently with TT brakes (it's NA) and a semi-race pads and stopping that car was less dramatic and much faster than the 240, and I never engaged ABS. They are an amazing setup, though I have heard very good things about the Cobra setup and I've almost convinced myself that that is the way to b/c rotors and pads will be cheaper and you will probably not really notice the difference so much that it will outweigh the cost, especially in such a light car. Most importantly though, as stated before, is the driver. A good driver compressing his brake zones and trailbraking can make a meager brake setup seem extraordinary, especially with a good suspension which will allow him to carry more speed through the turn. Look at the big picture, b/c the suspension setup really can have a big effect on the braking capacity/necessity. Edit: Kept ready and Mikelly laid it out exactly right. As for Russ, you're down under so all bets are off for what I know . How do you like your setup? I'm really thinking about using my old calipers and rotors from the supra on my Z, they're just collecting dust now...

considering your budget, I feel that if you do all the prep work on the car you should be able to spring for a decent paint job from a body shop. I'm in the process of doing the rusto-roller paint job on my Sentra SE-R and it looks really good, but I started with a crappy canvas . The most important part of this technique is to really take your time and be meticulous with your prep work. I didn't really care much about how this turned out, but every coat and sanding that I do, I see every flaw and now I wish I'd gotten some filler just to smooth out a few of the dents, if nothing else. It takes me about 2 hours to paint a coat and 2 hours to wet sand it. I've got about $90 total in all my materials for the car, but I've already probably got 30 hours into it and still have a few more coats, some sanding, and a lot of polishing, so it is extremely time consuming and boring. On the plus side, it will end up looking comparable to, if not better than, a cheapo paint job with minimal mess and smell, and you'll get the satisfaction of knowing you did it. Depending on how this finally turns out, I might end up doing this to my Z once I start diving it and rooting out the rust and fix all the little body issues on it.

JDM has smaller injectors (440 vs. 550), ceramic turbine wheels on the turbo (USDM=steel), and less aggressive cams,

dammit, you took my idea!!! this is exactly what I intend to do to a 240z. I'll be putting a 1JZ-GTE into my NA mkIV, so I'd be having the engine just sitting there. I thought it would be perfect for this application. I'm eagerly waiting to see what you think about this car with this engine in it. The engine is terrific, extremely flat torque band and very linear HP, stock will only give you ~180hp at the wheels, but it's easy to get more power out of it. KEEP US UPDATED!!

that's cool, just email me at anthracitena@yahoo.com same with you guys when you start planning for a summer meet.

usually 3000-3500 for a 1J clip.

egmar, what did you do to get it that light? Can you give us a little bit of insight?

just so you know, the mileage records at Jarco, IIRC, are in kilometers, so 100kl is really only around 70,000 miles. Keep this in mind when you get to lookin back into picking up a JDM engine.

sadly, you will probably pioneer it for me, since I've still got at least one more major project to finish up before I can dump the S13 and get something to spend more money on.

sounds like a plan. Just lemme know when it is out of the shop

okay, obviously you haven't done your research, so that should be your number 1 priority. second. I shouldn't necessarily say this since I'm new to this forum, but I'm a member of enough of them and been around long enough to say that you need to search what you want to do. Then develop a plan, build up funds, and THEN execute. Search button is your friend. from what I recall, putting a TT motor into an NA Z32 is no peice of cake. I've never done it, so this is totally speculation, but from talking to friends that have Z32s, they have said that it is more work than it is worth and is better to dump it and get an actual TT. ESPECIALLY, if you don't have the time, money, resources to do it/have it done for you. Go find some local shops (you're in NY, there's a lot of them I'm sure) that have a decent reputation and see what they will charge you to do it. Then compare that cost to buying a crane and tools and a set of shop manuals for the car, renting a storage space, and doing the job yourself. It may end up costing you a little bit more, but the incredible amount of knowledge that you will get out of it will more than pay for that in the long run. You say you don't know much about the car. My bet is that you've never done something like this before, but now is the time. God help you if this is the only car you have, but this is my advice. Instead of dropping the couple grand to do it immediately, spend $500 and get a Geo Metro to get you around town (in case you don't have another car) and then take your time getting this one together. Just my .02, but I know a lot of people will agree that learning how to do it yourself, and researching a topic will always win out over having somebody do all of the work for you. When you learn yourself, you will never have to pay somebody to fix something and the more often you do it, the better you get at it.

so, did you get it????

Not Fair! That's my idea! Venus is a hit-or-miss option. I've seen people get motors with extra goodies in great shape, but at the same time I've seen people get a 1000lb hunk of scrap metal that was pass off as a complete half car. If you buy from them, know you aren't guaranteed a perfect engine or pay the extra with somebody else and have a guarantee.

keep me updated, I'm interested either way

stock 1J turbos are only really good (read: reliable) below 14-15 psi. After that the ceramic blades will simply shatter (2J turbos were steel, but it isn't a direct swap). Getting a whole 7M-GTE for under 1200 would be a peice of cake. You can get a BHG Supra Turbo for ~600, pull the motor, part the car and you'll probably turn a profit since you won't need a lot of the parts that the car would have, leaving you money to mod with .

awesome! quick questions (forgive me for being a stupid newB). -What is the difference between media blasting and sand blasting? -Why stitch welding as opposed to running one long bead down the entire seam? -Where did you get the floor pans? DId you cut out the old ones and then weld these in, or is there another process? -What color are you going to paint it?

a friend and I were discussing engines the other day and he brought this one up. Care to share some details on it (redline, torque, hp, modability, weight, etc)? Weren't all of those cars FWD; what are your plans to get around that?

200sx club of norway, so I would assume Norwegian, although it probably is still gibberish in thier language too

Hah, forgive me for giving that impression. My hopes are that by the time I actually meet up with anybody that they would at least know me around here, so I wouldn't be a TOTAL stranger . I'd definitely like to come out to the next meet. Any idea when? WHere should I look on the forum so I can be sure not to miss? I totally understand the idea of being overly protective, I think I can count the number of people that have driven my supra on one hand. A ride in a car can give a decent idea of what a car feels like, although 500hp would be about twice what I intend to go for, that would be a bit much. Likewise, although I've been roadracing and autocrossing for almost 3 years now, I haven't driven anything more powerful than my supra at an any of those events. Anyways, I'll still take up any offers on rides, as it can still give me an idea of what it is like. I've also been told that an early Z drives similarly to a lighter, slightly more powerful version of the 240sx. Can anybody confirm this? I've got a few more questions about how it drives as well. -I hear the brakes suck. Any cheap ways to upgrade, to that I may prolong dropping a wad of money on brakes immediately? -How nimble is this car? The supra handles well but you can feel the weight, the 240 doesn't feel as planted to the ground, but makes up for this by feeling very "tossable" and nimble. Discuss pertaining to the Z. Any complainst about these cars. What don't you like about them (aside from eating all your money and time)?

that's fine, as long as I'll get an idea of what it feels like. When I do mine, it won't be very stock either, considering it will have a lot of structure fortification and a Toyota engine, and will be getting suspension and brake upgrades soon thereafter. I just want to dump the money into a car and discover that it isn't any fun to drive to me. I did that once already and hated the car when it was done. obviously, a fairly stock Z would be preferred since it will give me a better idea of the car itself before mods, but Ill take what I can get. Mike, how long do you think it will be before you'll be done?

Jarco has the #1 recommednation from people doing the 1J swap that are using half-cuts. If you aren't using a half-cut, they'll be pretty much useless. Takakaira is a good company. I ordered a few things from them back when I did the 1J swap in my mkIII.

the 1JZ was offered with the R154 tranny, which has a good reputations for being able to handle a decent amount of power. I can't say much for the slushboxes, since I avoid them like the plague. The tranny codes that were available with the 1J were the above mentioned R154 and the A342E (automatic), but many of the mkIII supra guys use the 7M automatic (A340E). If you are seeking tranny options, I beleive you can also use the Getrag V160 6-speed used with the 2JZ-GTE as well as the W58 used with the 2JZ-GE. However, the W58 was offered with the 7M-GE, but I have been convinced they are not the same tranny. If I get a chance to drive an early Z and can be convinced that it what I want to pursue as my next project, I'll be using the 2JZ-GE that is soon being removed from my mkIV when I put the 1J in. I can update you in a few months (60 hour work weeks + just graduated college with one class left to take don't leave much time to wrenching) on how easily the 1J mates up to the W58. recap: 1J trannies: R154 (manual), A342E (auto) 7M trannies: R154 (manual, needs a 1J bellhousing), A340E (auto), W58 (NA manual) mkIV trannies: W58 (NA 5-speed), V160 (TT 6-speed), I don't know the auto code