AtlantaZ

Long-needed update: I took the car in to the local pros at Zen Motors, who were recommended by the guys at DIY Autotune (one of a very few authorized Megasquirt builders/dealers). The guys at Zen have been going over my engine with a fine-toothed comb and found two significant issues: incorrect spark plug wiring and a faulty Megasquirt relay board. Long story short - they totally rewired my engine and, after swapping in a T5 transmission, will hand me the car back in ready-to-drive condition. They've taken such good care of me that I may end up wearing a "Zen Motors" badge on the car's windshield - especially if I can get a price break. The mechanics are very curious as to how much power the car will make - so much so that they are going to schedule some dyno time. After I break the engine in, I hope to put it on the dyno and see how much power it's actually producing. If all goes well, look for me to report in tomorrow night with some video footage of the car in action!

You forgot to mention that the fuel was leaking directly under the blue flames spouting out of the wastegate discharge. Or maybe you withheld that so as to not make me look bad... Matt, did you have a chance to see/hear the engine run smoothly yet? Or are we still waiting on the relay board replacement?

Clarification: shop reports faulty RELAY BOARD, not ECU. Slight difference there!

May replace ECU with MS3 or MS3X... thoughts? Or better yet, donations? Would it be worthwhile to have another MS3/EDIS install documented on Hybridz?

Update - Megasquirt board is faulty!!!

Update #2 - Shop is now analyzing my tune.

I agree that something is definitely off with the MAP reading. It is reading 97 with the engine off, so the baseline calibration looks okay. It seems to react normally when I test it, but I'm not using precision vacuum test instruments. The guys at DIYAutotune thought that other variables in the setup might be causing the engine to run poorly and therefore drawing insufficient vacuum. I'm almost certain that my ECU has the stock MPX4250 - but it's worth rechecking! Regarding spool-up... I was told that I could expect my GT3071r turbo to start spooling in the early 2k RPM range, with full spin by about 3200rpm. So I wasn't put off by the mild positive pressure reading... but again, something worth checking. I can definitely hear the turbo winding down when I shut the engine off, so maybe it's moving at least a little air?

Update - VR sensor mount had a little play in it. Shop applied Loctite and reattached - RPM signal is now good. Everything looks mechanically sound. I think that means we're down to an electrical/electronic problem.

Shop called today and said that the RPM signal output is intermittent. Diagnosis ongoing. Could be a bad ground, bad sensor, etc...

I am in Buford, and I have a theoretically good fuel/timing/AFR table for a stock-ish L28ET with a Garrett GT3071 turbo.

Car is now in jail at the auto shop. Will let you guys know when I hear news.

Alas, I have run out of ideas. It only wants to idle when I set the Injector Characteristics to 75% current limit and time threshold to 25.4ms, even though they're low impedance injectors. And the only way I can even get it to 2000rpm is by feathering the gas, with a lot of backfiring. Here's what I know so far: Timing - Megasquirt shows 17* commanded at idle, timing light shows same. Spark - Sparking. Timing light reads current on every spark plug wire, and the engine runs. Sort of. So there's sparking in there. Fuel - Good. Aeromotive FPR shows 45psi at idle, creeping up to about 48 when the engine throttles up. Injectors - Injecting. Tunerstudio injector test mode has all six injectors clicking away. Signals: RPM - Good. 36-1 toothed wheel on an EDIS VR sensor. Good RPM reading in Tunerstudio. Coolant/Inlet Air Temp - Good. Using standard GM sensors. At cold start, readings match ambient air temp. Coolant temp climbs up to normal operating temp (190), then holds there. Manifold Absolute Pressure - About 80-88 at idle. When I throttle it up to 2000rpm, pressure climbs to about 120kPa (due to turbo). Using stock Megasquirt onboard MAP sensor, reading from vacuum line that originates at intake manifold. AFR - Innovate LC-1 shows about 15:1 at idle in Tunerstudio. I may check cylinder compression tomorrow just to see if there are any issues there, but I don't see any oil vapor blowing out of my PCV hoses. At this point, I think it may be one of the following: Injector driver circuitry on Megasquirt is bad One or more injectors isn't operating correctly Vacuum leak on intake manifold Ignition driver (BIP373) is faulty EDIS ignition module or coil pack is faulty Possessed by one or more demons

The engine seems to only want to run smooth when I set the Supra turbo injectors up with "high impedance" type injector settings in TunerStudio... but now they're burning hot to the touch. What's going on here?

Found one problem: The AFR tables CANNOT be calibrated on a running engine! I'll try recalibrating on Sunday and post progress.

Wideband says that at my 1000rpm idle, I'm reading about 12.5:1 AFR - sounds rich for idle, yes? What's the correct way to bring the idle to where I want it to be (15:1)? When I throttle it, the AFR drops to 8:1 or below. What's going on there - it seems like maybe the engine is miscalculating? How do I get it to run on EGO control? And should my exhaust manifold be glowing red after idling and revving the engine to 2000rpm for 20 minutes? My coolant temp reads 190F, so the coolant is okay, but it just didn't seem like the manifold should be that hot... or am I naive?

I managed to capture some of the blue-flame effect on my phone's camera. Check it out: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gopTeQIo8b4

I feel like the advance and fuel tables are rock solid, so I'm going to mess a bit with the injector settings. I think the O2 sensor will go a long way in helping me figure out exactly where the problem is. I will say that TunerStudio's "Output test" feature was really helpful in diagnosing the system. Using it, I was able to confirm that all six injectors were firing - which was one of my concern. Please feel free to ask me any questions!

Bad news - Ben at DIY Autotune says they're booked for the next month or so. Good news - Zen Motors, right down the street, says they can take a look. Best news - got it to idle again! The trick was to set the injector characteristics to 0.1mV battery correction and to set the current limit to 100%... which is a high-impedance setting - but the second I did that, the idle smoothed right out! When I rev to2000rpm, I get a bad backfire, leading me to think the fuel tables are too rich. The req_fuel is 7.5. May fuel tables are based on a Lonewolf intake, which probably flows substantially more air than my stock intake. So I am now looking to download someone else's VE table. But this is good news!!

Hah! Got it to idle again. The trick was to set up my injector characteristics to 100% current limit - even though they're low impedance injectors, for some reason only the high impedance injector settings work. Maybe I don't have the flyback circuit installed like I thought? It splutters when I throttle it again. Since there's a 1" gap currently between my turbo outlet and my downpipe, I can clearly see blue flames when I throttle up to 1500rpm - is this normal? I feathered the gas and got it up to 2500rpm, and got a backfire - which made for a smoky fireball in my engine bay. Pretty spectacular! Anybody else think my fuel might be a tad rich? Now that idles, I think I will install my wideband O2 sensor and see where my readings are at.

Happily! As one who has benefitted from the community's knowledge, I will gladly pass anything I glean. For instance, here's a tip... don't use rubber hose to feed coolant to the turbo!! If that rubber touches the compressor or turbine housings, you get a big green lake in your garage floor!

yep, those are the pros I referenced. If I can't get it running in the next few days, I put the car on a trailer and haul it to Autotune.

Old thread - did anyone ever get a good set of PWM numbers for the 440cc Supra injectors in Megasquirt?

Gentlemen (and ladies?), I've been trying to get my Megasquirt setup running on my daily driver for about a month now, but to no avail. I'm running out of ideas and need to get this thing running pretty soon. If there's anyone in the Atlanta/Buford, Georgia area who is willing and able to help me get this bird to fly, I'd gladly buy you lunch - and maybe even put a "Powered By [Your Name]" sticker on my windshield....

Last ditch call for help! I'm about ready to take it down the street to the pros. If anyone is local to Atlanta, Georgia, and has time to help me troubleshoot my Megasquirt setup this weekend, I'd gladly buy you lunch!!

I'm thinking that the problem may be a combination of timing issues and possible vacuum leaks. Once I replaced my melted turbo coolant feed line, I'll continue tweaking. By the way, I recommend that no one ever use rubber line to feed coolant to the turbo. Those suckers get hot!! And rubber doesn't like hot metal.