PapaSmurf
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Posts posted by PapaSmurf
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The weird thing is that usually weight reduction and cost savings come later but the f54 has the closed plate and the older n42 has the open plate
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F54 flywheel backplate has a much smaller hole for the crank than the n42 backplate I just noticed this as I'm pulling apart the n42 to use its crankshaft and flywheel on the f54 anyone know why the n42 hole is so large? Doesn't seem like it would make any difference at all just a curiosity
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It would also be cool to use for a backup camera... for those winter day's when the rear window is still fogged up.
I was thinking the same thing but my options are a bit limited I'd have to either run a full Linux distro on the tab or rewrite the camera app in android to accept an external source there is a full usb port on it though no web cam drivers in the kernel yet or gut the thing and use the back cam with shielded cables on the outside I don't know if an i2c signal can be run that far though I doubt it and then I'd have to permamount the thing to the dash. If I tweak the mount a bit I can get a good view out the back with the front cam but I have a rearview mirror for that
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The vintage air kit looks like a good option but the price is a deal breaker for me
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How would the man of few words tackle the problem I wonder.
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As I said this was a blind install I'm not sure what was done to it before I met it. I'm gonna have the block decked/resurfaced before I start reassembling it though. It appears flat but there is some very mild pitting in places that could be causing issues. It may just be burning so much oil that the smoke is white and blue perhaps the rings will fix this IFK the hone marks are gone from the cylinders and there are vertical lines in them so I assume the rings are about done. Doesn't seem like rings could cause such drastic oil burning. I was told the engine sat 20 years in a wherehouse so the pick pull guys assumed it was running when pulled they gave me a 30 day warranty lol that expired two years ago
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BTW I replaced the valve stem seals and had the head pressure tested so no problems there.
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Hey guys I just wanted to talk a few things out. I bought an f54/p79 combo from a picknpull a few years ago and I've had issues with the thing since I bought it. I haven't been able to get it running for more than a few miles without burning oil and water. First thing I did when I got it home was tear it down clean the valves ported the head mildly replaced gaskets and painted it up so it was pretty. I installed it and it seemed to be OK idling for the first 5 minutes then poof it started burning oil and water like crazy I removed the head and there was oil and water in the cylinders no sign of gasket blow out. I cleaned the head and block surfaces then installed a fresh head gasket and tried it again. Same issue oil and water burning no sign of gasket rupture so I parked it and got distracted for a bit. I figured the head was warped and rings could be stuck. So a few weeks ago I got the extra cash together and had the head resurfaced at a good shop in town. They only removed 6 thousandths and said it was flat - shit. Well I bolted her up again with an eBay gasket and started filling the radiator when water started streaming out between the side of the engine through the head/block seam - this is when I got frustrated and pulled the engine stuck it on a stand and started tearing it down. When I got the head off I found why it was leaking this time the damned eBay gasket didn't cover two water jackets at all! Grr well since its out I'm going to tear it down all the way and try to avoid doing this ever again. I'll get the block resurfaced I noticed some mild pitting around a few water jackets which might be what the issue was. I ordered a honer and rings and rod bearings I'll order main bearings and a good full gasket kit in a few days. I have a few concerns. My crank shaft threads for the damper/pulley are shot and the surface of that side of the crank is a little marred up from the pulley/timing gear/oil flinger as well. I have an l28 block that might have a better condition crank are they interchangeable? Should I get the crank / rods
polished for the new bearings that will put me way back on my budget and I haven't spun any bearings yet so I assume everything should be good - I've heard of people polishing the crank and journals at home with fine sandpaper and a rig is this a bad idea? The machine work is going to hurt my wallet. This is a street car it is for driving to the gas station and tearing up back roads not racing. Any advice for someone whose never torn the block down this far? What can I do to ensure this thing lives a good long life now while its all apart and on the stand?
I ordered std sized rings and bearings from itm I'll measure before final install can't find crank or rod bolts anywhere though I've heard its a good idea to replace them. I need a recommendation for a good full engine gasket set as well this is an 81 f54 block with p79 n/a with flat tops. Tomorrow I'll pull out the crank from the n42 block and see what shape its in. I can't think of anything else. I will never again install an engine blind! Such a pita
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Off the top of my head it would take a few stepper motors probably a new reengineered control box some relays to operate the motors an arduino board a few weeks to write the software interface I'll keep it mind as a future project too much money to spend right now. It would be fun to work on it. I wonder if there is a vehicle with electric HVAC controls that I could take a control box out of and repurpose engineering that would be the tricky part.
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I'm certain I could make that happen but I don't have the cash to put into it at the moment. For now it works fine I only use defroster and heat here and I've relocated the fan switch and set defrost high heat up permanently. Still gotta get the engine together and she needs body work and paint after that
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I've been working on my Z again finally took a year off but I just pulled the engine out and I have it on the stand waiting for some cash to complete the rebuild. Since Im waiting I got a bit inspired and thought I'd try sticking my iconia a500 inside the dash. My heater controls are broken and missing parts Ive wired a switch to turn the heater on/off and set the defrost on permanently so I dont really need anything in the center dash soo...
I'm an android dev and I've become bored with this tablet so it's going to get new life in my Z as a stereo/video/navigation device I think I'll wire in a backup cam and possibly set it up as an ecu monitor when I go back to efi in the future. I had to notch the corners of the inside of the dash to get it to fit but that was easy with the dremel - now I need to whip up a lower mount and get it wired up. What do you guys think. I still need to clean it up I just started mocking it up.
OK got a rough draft of the mount finished for today cut from sheet bent and tweaked. it screws into the original mounts for the center piece so I can always revert later if I wanted to. I wrapped the mount in black vinyl with some spray on adhesive and it fits snug as a bug. I'm not sure if I'm going to do any touch up work I could use some filler and make it look even better but then I wouldn't be able to reverse the process or remove the tablet for antitheft purposes
I also started working on some dash faces to match my 110 red/orange Z getting the size right on the prints is a pita
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I made some people really regret driving a convertible mustang, they were following too closely when I gunned it going up the freeway onramp haha smoked them out good they're probably still coughing.
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old thread but I haven't had new information for a while. The valve guides were not replaced the stem seals however were replaced when I put this thing together. The guides probably need to be replaced but not without new valves to go with them. I cleaned the old valves but I'm not happy with them still. I've been taking her out for long HARD drives trying to see if it just needed a good break in. The oil burning has lessened substantially! It's possible the oil control rings were stuck or these rings just needed a good burned oil coating to seal them up better. The engine was pulled in a junkyard 20 years ago and moved to their storage warehouse where it sat waiting for me all that time- storage is not good for rings. The water burning however is getting worse. I pulled the radiator cap while it was running and there was a LOT of pressure in there for whatever reason the overflow plumbing was clogged after letting the thing idle up and get warm large bubbles began to plop up from the depths of the radiator and small chunks of oil when I rev the engine high the water level in the radiator goes down as it idles it raises - I would have thought it would go the other way because the pumps rpms would increase with the engine rpm causing increased pressure but I believe as the engine speed increases it is breathing more water and thus it pulls the radiator level down. The head is warped there is no question but I'm fairly certain that the rings are ok - at least now they are. There is still no sign of water in the oil but the oil pressure is far lower than it should be possibly indicating that it is flowing into the cylinders still at least slightly probably due to the head warpage.
I need to tear into this thing but it's hard to pull a head while watching a 2 year old...
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Don't listen to that - the fsm lies big time here it doesn't matter. I've never ever had a problem with doing it the easy way. Hell I've even swapped cam guides from different engines after polishing the hell out of them of course
Just keep them in order and lightly grease before reassembly and you'll be fine. -
No air tools, I'm just going to pull the head have it shaved flat I'm sure it's at least a little warped at this point in it's life. I'll see how it looks in there before changing the rings.
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There aren't any signs of water in the oil or oil in my water...
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That's what I was thinking/hoping but where is all the oil coming from? It wouldn't be in every cylinder if it was a warped head, it forms so fast on the plugs it's unreal. Oil control rings would explain the oil on the plugs and it would still have good compression as long as the other rings were in good order. all 6 cylinders have oil in the combustion chambers that's a new one on me. I'm going to pull the head and have it checked out. I wonder if this more than one faliure ie bad oil control rings AND warped head. Wouldn't compression be lower if the head was letting oil and water in the cylinders? Theoretically the air would go out the same way as the oil and water comes in. It also only smokes really bad once the engine gets warmed up to operating temperature. I wish I had a color tune so I could completely rule out a/f ratio which could be responsible for a lot of the white and grey smoke - white=lean grey=rich
Maybe it's bad mixture a warped head and bad oil rings combined into one big glorious mess of confusion...
I guess I'll start tearing the head off it'll be a good excuse to be out in the sun and it'll force me to fit the exhaust properly and replace that cracked water inlet (the stupid aluminum piece where the radiator and thermostat are) I have to pull off the crank pully and put on a single belt one and put a different clutch fan in too. It's enough work to keep me busy all summer - I'd better not end up having bad rings once it's all back together I'd cry.
Children are bad they suck away all of my Z time
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Hey guys, I built this engine last summer but got so fed up with this issue that I tucked it away in the garage until now. The car starts runs drives great - the only issue is the smoke. It's a 78 280z with an f54 out of an 81zx. I ported the head painted the block and went through it real good before putting it in. My fear is the rings are bad. The smoke billows out white/grey clouds depending on how I adjust the carbs I can get the grey to lessen if I lean it out all the way. The plugs are soaked in oil immediately after being cleaned. Compression is good on every cylinder 130 to 145psi on all 6 but there is oil on EVERY plug. Could the head just be warped? It seems like I'm burning more water than oil from the color of the smoke. I just went through the carbs and timing today hoping I could tune the smoke away - no luck. I put in all new stem seals when I put this thing together. My first reflex was that the head gasket I used was faulty and I changed it after a day of troubleshooting - it was burned and oil soaked between the first two cylinders. The new gasket didn't solve the problem it was still smoking. I just don't think a warped head would dump oil into every cylinder and I don't see how compression could be good either. Which leads me to oil control rings - someone please rule them out because I don't want to have to waste another summer on another used engine
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I love it, keeping the original tank is well worth the trouble as far as I'm concerned. A few things to think about: you probably should have done the cutting before having it hot tanked and sealed - obviously it should have been cleaned out well before cutting but now there may be remaining bits of metal in there and the sealer isn't there over the edge of your cut. Also does the in tank pump have a good filter on it? You want to protect your fuel pump. The in tank pump should be considerably quieter than an inline pump, my inline drives me insane. I would also put your inline filter ahead of your pressure regulator to protect it, is it a good regulator or a cheap aftermarket one?- does it have a bypass valve going into the return line? If it doesn't have a bypass line it has the potential to LEAK fuel when it goes out. I love the tank though good work keeping her looking stock.
*edit - Oh I misread your post, you're putting a filter inline with a fuel pressure gauge. Make sure your fuel pressure gauge is NOT the stupid variety that requires a fuel line to enter the cabin and connect directly to the gauge. Unless the gauge is staying in the engine bay make sure you buy the type that uses an electronic sending unit. If it's just a cheap gauge to monitor how the regulator is working from time to time again make sure the filter is in front of it, you don't want anything but fuel going into the guage or regulator. A fuel leak in your engine bay can really ruin your day.
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the vinyl top is pretty darn cool, You don't see those anymore.
Were you thinking of purchasing it or are you the seller? If you're trying to sell it you ought to read the forum rules... If you're thinking of buying it then I'd be very weary of the half assed paint prepping.
*also the car doesn't run - the seller believes it's the ignition coil - the rule is never trust a seller. If it doesn't run you have no idea what the condition of the engine is. The rings could be bad, a valve may have broken, etc etc. The guy claims to know a lot about cars, why isn't it running? He could get an extra grand for it if it was running and painted why not buy the part and fix it? I'd think long and hard about it. There are some aftermarket parts on there like the exhaust manifold that doesn't seem like something a first owner of a car that had it garaged forever would have installed, so the seller probably installed it, which means the engine was running when he got it. An ignition coil is 30 bucks, if that's all that's wrong with it he would have fixed it.
If you're the seller I'm here to warn others away from this car for the reasons I stated above and one other reason: you're bypassing the forum rules by trying to sell your vehicle outside of the buy/sell/trade area in order to get away with not donating to the forum - that doesn't scream honesty to me.
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Interesting, I didn't know it only lasted a year.
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Looks like it's fixed, Good work!
Just keep them in order and lightly grease before reassembly and you'll be fine.
flywheel backplate differences
in Nissan L6 Forum
Posted
Now that makes sense thanks for enlightening me