Lighft01

Looking for Z32 TT Rear sub frame assembly. I bought one from a seller on ebay and it turned out to be a short nose R200. The pickings are pretty slim at the junk yards in North texas so trying my luck here. Specifically looking for R-230, Wheel hubs, Brakes, and ebrake assembly from a Z32 Turbo car to finish up the swap in my 280. If you have any of these parts and are in North texas or willing to ship please let me know. I JUST WANT TO DRIVE MY CAR AGAIN!! I have 2 longnose R200's id be willing to trade or just sell outright, a couple sets of axles, and of course an entire Z32 N/A car rearsubframe. Thanks!

I had to send in cores for my T3 axles. I have a set of Z32 and Q45 axles left over from my R-230 swap, think i even have an R-230 from a Q45 laying around. Pm me if your interested.

I used an F-Body fuel tank, you have to spin it 180 degrees to get the filler neck on the right side but not hard. Looks good too like it was made for this car. I run the factory F-body pump with an inline pump and 60lb injectors and dont have any fuel issues.

Not too bad if your driving, if you get stuck at a light it gets bad but i do not have all the interior in my car either so there are some large holes in my hatch that let a lot of it in.

sorry for the super huge pic, didnt think it was that big.

I did 2.5" x-pipe and dumped after two redline race mufflers.... These are probably too loud for your taste but i think magnaflow makes a round muffler like this in different lengths so that you can pick how loud it will be.

speartech harness for the engine/cpu, and painless for everything else on the car... expensive way to do it. If/when i do it again i would probably use a factory ls1 harness and mate it up with a painless.

How much are you looking to spend?.. I have a hatch i am trying to get rid of, complete with vents and glass with vertical heater strips. Maybe you can find someone that is looking for the rest of the hatch. PM me if your interested and i will send you pics.

Still in

Yes, def. still interested in these headers. Was the decision made to go with a 3/4 because of clearance issues? Just wondering if there will be a later production of 1 7/8's set, as i would probably just wait for those.

I am in for sure...1 7/8 with 3" collectors is fine with me...let me know when and where to send the money.

AND THIS, it always sounds like a good idea until you put pen to paper and find out your building a 30k car that wont ever be completed, and probably never run. Sometimes you just have to figure out the hard way. I lost $2-3k in the first year of my build before i realized that simple is usually better.

THIS

No resonators and dumped under the car, but dual 2 1/2", dyno'd 422 RWHP and 393 ft/lbs

white wire power and ground is what i hooked up, and ofcourse the power and grounds for lights

Bought a griffin aluminum radiator for my LS6 swap, it has the inlet and outlet swapped (swapped from factory ls1/ls6 style). Used the factory LS-1 hoses but put the short one on top and long one on bottom, fits perfect, ill post pics later when i get a minute.

Thats the one, thanks man. Now i just have to find all the parts.....

I have been working on getting my interior back in the car. It has been so long since i have seen my car put together i forgot how the back deck area goes together. Mainly the stands that hold up the floor. I know i have seen a picture of it on here, or maybe zcar but i cannot find it now. Can someone please re-post the picture so i can get my interior finished up?? Light

2.5" duals, x pipe, 2 mufflers (one per bank) and dumped under the car. Sounds great, good rumble at idle, and smooth sound at WOT. NO rear o2's, you can have them tuned out per HP tuners.

Using the factory pedals, just modified the throttle cable to hook up on the other side. used an f-body clutch master, and factory brake booster.

LS1, you will be happier...Im am def. biased but i have known people who have owned both ls1 and lt1's and swear they would never go back to lt1. Optisparks are a pain in the but to change in a trans am, i would imagine its a little tighter in a ZX. Power wise the ls1 has more potential i think, just a better designed motor. The lt1 is based off every old sbc youve ever seen. Friend of mine likes to say its closer to a tpi than an LSx. Either way your going to have fun in it....Personally if you have the money go LSx all the way. If you are looking for an iron block go LQ9, has a better rotating assembly, or so ive heard ,than the LQ4.

I was going to say, its just stock height with 14" wheels.. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=98961 Mines at the bottom, made 422/393 on thursday. Was previously running 388/345 or something like that and found out i had a deadspot in my MAF. Replaced it and had it retuned and made A LOT more power. Amazing how much you can make when your fuel curves, and timing tables arent out of wack.

I may not wait, because frankly your right, it is VERY expensive. I will pm you shortly, i get all my body work done on all my cars at American body works in lewisville. A good friend of mine works there, well owns it, and they do great work. I wouldnt want to give you guys any false hopes on price because they didnt charge me for labor, only supplies so i couldnt really tell you what it would cost.

Red Fire Metallic

My car has been running for a couple of months but just had some body/paint work done....In advance like to thank every member, this by far was the most useful site and i am still learning new things everyday. 1978 Datsun 280z 2003 corvette LS6 Heads/Cam/Fast 90/90 Crane Gold Valvetrain Speartech Harness Trans am Fuel tank T56 from LS1 Trans am / PRO 5.0 Shifter Johns car Mounts Made my own Sub frame Connectors Sanderson Headers Exhaust by Kinneys muffler shop Euless,TX Stock suspension for now Tuned by RPM in Lewisville, TX Car made 422/393 2 days ago...I love it