cheesepocket

That CX exhaust kit looks super nice and a good fit. No way a guy could do a custom setup for close to that price.

I made one using the lower shifter boot from a Fox body 5.0 Mustang. Not too pretty, but it works.

Tremec has a free app for your smartphone to help with finding the angle on both ends of the driveshaft. Make sure you are checking on machined surfaces, not as-cast.

I'm still chasing my vibration issues. I found some pretty good stuff online regarding getting the angles right, here's one http://www.hotrodhotline.com/md/html/drive_shaft_harmonics.php though every article I've found assumes a live rear axle whose pinion angle naturally changes as a reaction to the tire torque. We can set our angles exactly as our diffs shouldn't rotate upward under torque like a live axle would. Some sites are adamant about measuring the angle directly at the U-joint caps to get a consistent machined surface, this can be done using the right size socket as a spacer. I found some slop in the front u-joints of my nearly new driveshaft, and also discovered the bolt head clearance notches in the forward diff crossmember were not made big enough so the bolt heads were directly transmitting noise to the crossmember. I'm really hoping these two things are my answer,and then the only other issue is excessive lash through the R200 and/or halfshafts. I'm also going back to factory style rubber mounts for the mustache bar and am testing a factory Camaro rubber mount for the front of the diff. MIne's a street car and the diff howling is maddening. I'll document here if this quiets things down well.

I took out the plug toward the back of the passenger side head and used the following to allow monitoring of temp in the head with an electric temp gauge: Autometer 2259 sending unit Autometer 2277 M12 to 1/8 NPT adapter Autometer 3421 electric water temp gauge, 2 5/8" You can't use the standard sender that comes with the gauge as it's too long. I got all this info off the LS1tech website and it was very straightforward and has been working fine.

Vintage Air Gen 2 Compac. Pretty big to fit it, but it did indeed fit with a little persuasion of sheet metal and some rough fab/welding. Local AC shop crimped the fittings free as long as I bought the hoses/fittings from them. Nice bulkhead fittings shown thru the firewall save a few bucks vs. the male-male ones typically used. I cut out my factory slider stuff in the center, leaving a little material around the perimeter, cut and painted a piece of aluminum, and screwed onto that material. These electric controls from VA are super nice and have a nice glow at night when hooked into the IP lights. AC rheostat directly carries the current for the AC clutch, actually with the binary switch in between that shuts off the compressor for excessively low or high pressure. Bypassed the PCM, only negative is that I have to manually turn on fans. Used Billet Specialties AC hose clamps, modified with longer bolts and sleeves to act as mounting posts through the sheet metal.

+1 on the battery tray mounting. I bent up some aluminum for the brackets and use rivet nuts so I would have to get a person with a wrench inside to hold the nut.

Looks great. Unfortunately I would have to drop the tranny as mine is already installed. And dropping the tranny, at least in my car, means pulling the engine and tranny. I wish this was a year ago when I had it all out....

I'll be pulling mine out likely late December and will sell em shipped for $30. Total of 200 miles on em. Coming off an R200 bar. PM if still interested, thanks. Cheesepocket.

Alright thanks all. I've got some 280z parts cars and I'll go rob one of the boosters off one of those. I'll assume, maybe incorrectly, that the booster is the same from 240-280. Pretty painless to try.

I never drove my car with the six for comparison, but if I hook the vacuum line from the booster to the factory tube on the LS1 manifold, I get way too much assist, like stepping on a marshmallow and then way too much braking for the effort. Really tough especially to heel-and-toe that way. I tried leaving the vacuum source capped, but then it's alarming in how much effort it takes, and I feel like I'm gonna put my foot through the thin firewall. I tried getting an industrial valve designed to regulate pressure/vacuum, but all that did is allow full boost for maybe 1.5 pumps and then the booster was depleted. In other words it regulated the volume but not the pressure. I have the stock front disc and rear drum setup stock for my 72 240, and don't want to go down the road right now of the full front/rear and master cylinder upgrade, just want to drive the car for awhile. I doubt I can just mount the master right to the firewall and simply delete the booster, but I don't mind manual brakes if it's easy and relatively cheap. I didn't post this in the brakes section as I am hoping for an LS-specific solution that might still allow me to use the booster.

I never drove my car with the six for comparison, but if I hook the vacuum line from the booster to the factory tube on the LS1 manifold, I get way too much assist, like stepping on a marshmallow and then way too much braking for the effort. Really tough especially to heel-and-toe that way. I tried leaving the vacuum source capped, but then it's alarming in how much effort it takes, and I feel like I'm gonna put my foot through the thin firewall. I tried getting an industrial valve designed to regulate pressure/vacuum, but all that did is allow full boost for maybe 1.5 pumps and then the booster was depleted. In other words it regulated the volume but not the pressure. I have the stock front disc and rear drum setup stock for my 72 240, and don't want to go down the road right now of the full front/rear and master cylinder upgrade, just want to drive the car for awhile. I doubt I can just mount the master right to the firewall and simply delete the booster, but I don't mind manual brakes if it's easy and relatively cheap. I didn't post this in the brakes section as I am hoping for an LS-specific solution that might still allow me to use the booster.