mom'sZ

OK group... at the risk of seeming like a complete idiot, I installed a new rack and pinion into my Z (77 model 280). On the rack that was in the car, the left (drivers side) tie rod end was the one that was right hand side threads. On the new rack the right side is the one with right hand side threads??? So I just switched sides with the tie rod ends and it bolts up. The tie rod ends aren't interchangable, one is left hand, one is right. Is this OK? or should I exchange it. How does one order new tie rod ends... by thread direction, by side? I'm confused. Bear in mind I'm no noob when it comes to cars. I forget the reason one is rh and one left, for adjustment purposes right?

Well I've done quite a bit of searching and now time is getting tight. I see Summit has some universal radiators, has anyone tried these? My main issue is that most are crossflows with the upper inlet to the extreme left instead of offset a little to the center like stock. If anyone has a radiator that fits well in first gen Z, please help!

80LT1, I've seen some body kits come with double sided tape. One time we got one with it and I was laughing about using it. I decided to use it to hold the kit to the car while I fit the kit and attached it by other means. Well... we stuck it to the car with the tape and later could not get the darn thing off!!! I mean it was STRONG! One note, I don't think all double sided tape is created equal. This was white kind of foam stuff, slightly thicker then normal black double sided. Attachment methods vary, just don't try to 'mold' fiberglass to steel, it will crack. Screws in the wheel openings are always a good start. If the paint under the kit is sound, no need to prime or repaint.

That makes the car seven or eight years old... that was right around where we would cut it off and start making folks pay half. But I worked for a Chrysler dealer. The deciding factors were mileage and how clean the car looked, we were more apt to do one if it looked well cared for, so clean it up. Anyhow... try it... can't hurt. BTW all the clear doesn't need to be stripped, just what isn't sticking. The rest just needs feather edged back.

Phyxius, you didn't mention what year car or if it is a factory paint job. Short answer, clear must be sanded and repainted. But... you might not be as bad off as you think. History - I was a body guy for 25 years. You said it was a Grand Am. GM and all the domestic car makers had adhesion issues in the mid to late eighties and early ninties as they transitioned from high volitlie paint to waterborne. The waterborne clear just didn't 'bite' into the base coat. A lot of times the factory will warranty the paint job. (repaint the car for free) even if there is no warranty on the paint. Even if it's an older car, sometimes they will split the cost with you. Even if your not the original owner. If it is a factory paint job, bring it to a dealer and whine about how well you took care of the car. If it is a paint shop paint job, bring it back to the guy and say WTF. If it is a home job, bust out the DA and start sanding.

Hi folks I just want to say the clay block is the bomb for overspray removal. And not just on glass, it works on the painted surface also. Like datsunlover said, you can use a razor, held in your hand, you develop a feel for it. Use the Windex as kind of a lubricant. But you could still easily gouge the glass if not super careful. Don't try it with a holder. Or like racerX said, use only super fine steel wool. These were the traditional ways to remove overspray from glass for years that I was in the business. Then one day a paint rep brought me the clay block kit. They are available now in most auto supply stores (Discount) in the car detailing area. It comes with a spray (much like windex) that simply lets the clay slid more easily over the surface. The clay block is then rubbed on the surface. It works GREAT! Buffing removes paint, you buff too hard you can go through the paint. Razors and steel wool can scratch. The clay block is totally safe. It works great for removing bugs off the front! I love it and highly recomend it. One note, don't drop the clay block. Sand and dirt will stick to it and scratch the paint next time you use it. If you do drop it, try to cut the surface that hit the ground off with a razor. And the clay block will come in a little plastic box or bag, keep it in there when not in use or a zip lock baggie or it will dry out. After you use it on a area, run you hand over it, you will be amazed how smooth the surface feels.

RacerX, thanks for the welcome. I read your posts and see you are a professional painter. Like I said earlier, I did it for 25 years, tough business. Had a lot of fun, worked on some really cool cars. Anyhow... thanks again for the welcome. SHO Z, I just don't get reality TV at all. I was thrilled that hot rods and working on them seemed to have hit the big time. But then I watch those idiots and just cringe. They reinforce every negative stereotype of car and bike guys.

RacerX, I didn't check out your links so if I am repeating something, I apologize. But I did work in the paint and body business for twenty five years and have something to say on this subject. Urathane is POISON!!!! very bad stuff. Read the label... it doesn't say may cause... it says WILL cause damage, to brain, lungs, you name it. It can even cause reproductive damage, causing birth defects. Never try to spray it anywhere other then a real paint booth. Don't spray it in a garage attached to where people live. Even after it dries, the overspray dust is still poisonous. (and it goes everywhere) If you see guys (on TV or where ever) spraying it without a pressure feed, they are retarded. (STUPID) Growing up in the biz, breathing fumes was part of the mystique of being a bodyman. But back then it was mostly lacquer. Those charcoal filtered things aren't even good enough for lacquer primer. Part of the main purpose of a spray booth is to pull the paint fumes away from the painter! A good pressure fed respirator is expensive. Get one that covers your whole face too or wear googles because your eyes soak it up worse then your lungs. Oh... and you can't use your regular air compressor for the air source, there is oil in the air! Not good for lungs either. You need a oilless compressor.

I read your post a couple of days ago. Since no one else wants to touch it, I'll give it a try. I was working on my 77 awhile back and one of the belts pretty much fell apart in my hand. Couldn't be helped, had to take it apart. Under the plastic cover is indeed a spring. If you take it apart, you have to wind the spring up enough to fit back under the cover. Sort of held the end in the center with thumb and forefinger and spun the spring around until it is tight enough to fit back under the cover. once under there you can put the end of the spring in the slot it goes in and spin the plastic cover to get the rest. Once it's nice and tight snap the cover back on. Before replacing the spring, clean and lube the assembly. A note about WD40 - love the stuff, have a giant can outside, BUT... it is more of a penatrant then a lube. I like it for breaking bolts loose and cleaning stuff up. But it eventually dries... completly, leaving no lube behind. I've seen people spray it on door hinges or a door lock, works great at first ,but a month later, it's worse. Use the WD40 to rinse the junk out of the assembly, then some white lithium grease to lube. There is a spring loaded plate which catches on the ratchet teeth, work it with you fingers as you rinse with WD40. Spool the belt all the way out and back in a bunch of times. Now mine works better then it ever did. **WARNING** do this at your own risk. This is a sealed safety item which you should never mess with. I did this to mine because the car will eventually be used on the race track only and will use a racing harness. But Florida has a seatbelt law and I wasn't going to replace it only to throw it away in a few months. Racing harness is not an option on a street car so buying another stock seat belt would probably be best. Sorry for long post, hope this helps.

Hi group I've got the injectors and I also got some of those wire end thingies to replace the ends on the wiring harness. On the stock harness, both wires are black. Does it matter which wire goes to which side of the injector?

after looking at the factory service manual and black beauty's pic, I don't think the Zcar spindle incorporates the feature of which I spoke. I apologize

Oliver: The spindle does taper between the two wheel bearings, but this is not what I was talking about in the earlier post. If it's built this way, it necks down inboard of the two wheel bearings. The wheel still spins on the spindle just fine. I'm going to be rebuilding my suspension next week so I will have it apart and can tell you if Z's are built this way. But usually, just inboard of the inner wheel bearing a little bit, is a spot where the spindle's diameter is smaller by maybe 1/4 - 1/8". Unlike the gradual taper between the two wheel bearings, this is more of a groove with a raduis at the bottom. It's hard to explain, if I have time at work I'll try to find / draw a picture. Sorry I didn't see your post yesterday, I was busy all day.

Sean: Hung around a motorcycle machine shop and saw a lot of broken hardware embedded in cast aluminum pieces, a real problem. Taps are super hard, a titanium bit is the only thing that will touch it. If you go that route, center punch it so the bit doesn't migrate to the softer aluminum. But in a similar situation I saw the bolt boss get ground off (along with the busted tap) and aluminum material added with the welder and redrilled and tapped. It could maybe save the manifold.

Oliver: I worked in body shops as a heavy collision tech for twenty five years. Although I never saw this on a z and don't know the specifics for a zcar, most cars have an area on the spindle that necks down to a smaller diameter to purposely create a weak spot that will allow the spindle to bend in the event that the wheel hits something. The purpose of this feature is so the frame or other suspension components doesn't get bent. This is, pretty much, a universal feature on all cars. When a car would come in with the wheel like that I would just write for a new spindle. On a Zcar, I would guess that the spindle is part of the strut (anyone?) but anyhow, look at that first. Then, if that isn't the case, here is a tip when inspecting for other damage. Generally if a suspension component (a steel one) is bent, at the point where it is bent, you can see a little flaking of the surface. Not the paint finish, but the component itself, like paper thin flakes, a disturbance in the suface texture. If you see this, the part is junk. Hope this helps.

Please folks, I spent hours using the search function last night reading unrelated posts, so please don't tell me to just search. I need a set of stock fuel injectors. I want new, not rebuilt. MSA sells them for about sixty buck a piece. Does anybody know of somewhere cheaper or is this a pretty good deal? Also, related subject: for anyone familiar with SCCA Improved Touring rules and common practices, must the fuel injectors be stock fuel flow rating or may an otherwise identical replacement injector with a higher flow rating be substituted? Thanks everyone

That's OK John, because any shortcoming with the car will be well masked by my complete lack of driving skill! HA...

Update: car still stalls Have be going over stuff on the car, testing as per the FSM. Found the Air regulator wire very loose. Connection to it (similar to a fuel injector's) was broken where it plugs to the air regulator. In the manual it runs to the fuel pump. Does anybody know if this connection to the air regulator being loose would cause my stalling problem? I live in a warm climate, could I toss this thing and plug the connection in the TB boot? If I did, would I need to bridge the two wires that go to it or just leave it unplugged?

thanks for replying Randy77, I will contact them and see what they have. As far as the SUs, spec line for 75-78 280z in SCCA ITS reads Nissan (bosch) L-jetrontic FI, so I'm going to have to use the stock FI. Thanks for the lead on an old thread

MSA has rebuilt ones. Does anybody know if these are good parts?

Hi group Does anyone know of an online source for the original stock new fuel injection computer and air flow meter for a 77 280Z? Are they still available? I know they won't be cheap but I want brand new factory original stuff.

Thanks for the suggestions guys, I am checking some of the things you mentioned as we speak. Phantom: yes I do have a Factory service manual, hardcopy, a little dog eared, but I'm pouring through it. Looking for the test procedures for some of the suspect parts. Forrest: plug wires, cap & rotor are new. I too am convinced fuel delivery isn't an issue. I have several things I suspect but any help would be great if you are familiar with the stock ignition & FI on a 77.

I need to replace the stock radiator in my 77 280. It's a track car for road racing and the replacement need not be stock. An aluminum one would be nice, maybe something out of a late model so it's cheap (relatively) and readly available or trick aftermarket would be good. About the width and hieght of stock but thinner would be perfect. Anybody know a website where they show dimensions and inlet and exit locations for all models where you could pick one out, then order from parts house?

Hi everyone phantom: thanks for the info, yes I see that now (as you'll see below) This a daily driver and usually very reliable. I found some non-stock fuel line that seemed to be causing the problem last night and replaced it. Now the car starts and runs perfect. But all the sudden it stalls and won't easily restart. So I go back home and rig the fuel pressure gauge duct taped to the cowl so you can see it while driving. And I drive around. It reads 30 psi at idle, rises slowly as you open the throttle, and hits 40 psi when you floor it. Seems the fuel pressure regulator and fuel pump are working well. Then sometimes when you are going down the road, or pulling away from a light it just dies. As it dies, I'm looking at the gauge and it reads normal, plenty of pressure. So... I'm thinking it might be something else. Anybody still reading this thread please feel free to chime in. I don't want to have to start throwing parts at the car to try to diagnose it

is the fuel pressure gauge supposed to jump around? It's steady at an idle, but when you open the throttle it dips then quickly jumps up higher then it was at an idle. I read last night that the fuel regulator is supposed to keep it steady, is this true?

OK fuel pressure 35 psi at idle, jumps up to 40 when you blip the throttle