280zbeeT

So, my car is done. Its running beautifully, but now I have a NEW issue which Ive never experienced before! The Fuel pump wont turn on RANDOMLY, and along with it, neither will the Zeitronix wide band, or the Brake light for the hand brake.. So randomly ill go to the car, put the key in the ON position, and no fuel pump priming, no fuel pressure, but sometimes it decided to work perfectly.. then if I drive it will randomly shut down??? and the fuel pump wont turn back on maybe 20minutes later all of sudden put the key in the ON position, and the Fuel pump turns on, the Zeitronix working, and the car runs right up.. What could this be?? Please help with any ideas.. thank you! Do you guys think it could be my Ignition Key?? maybe I need to replace the whole Ignition Key or the wiring behind it and the steering wheel?? We used the prod and if put power to one of the certain fuses the fuel pump and the wide band and everything start right up, if we take the prod away from the fuse then it shuts right off.. thanks for your time guys.

240mm flywheel, coilovers, LSx Coil Pack, f54block, seats, wheels, LSx coil packs are important, so are the coilovers and the 240mm flywheel.. Wheels, I want 16inch rims that are deep dish, and wide.. and ZG flares I need a f54 block that is not abused, ready to put in and make some serious power, but not expensive.. Seats, Ide like bucket type seats, possibly from the new Acura RSx those are nice.. coilovers, already put together, or ground controls / camber plates..

okay so Im kind of figuring this stuff out, I believe the z31 clutch will fit, but I need a 240mm flywheel in order to make this work right? now a 240mm flywheel would fit my n42 block right? then I can use the z31 clutch?

i have a 240sx tranny swap, and I have a n42 block *turbo setup* with a 225mm clutch right now, I can buy a 240mm z31 ACT clutch for $80 which I rally want to do! will the z31 clutch fit? if I buy a 240mm flywheel?

http://www.andysautosport.com/nissan/1984_1989_300zx/transmission/clutch_kits/act/actp00062305.html this is what the clutch looks like, and the only clutch I can find for the model and year so Im guessing that the 240mm is correct. hey, I also found this. it says it fits a 280zx, but does that mean it Wont fit a n42 block which is from a 76 280z? since I have the 240sx tranny? http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/PCC08/21-2274 it says, "Model Guide: 240mm Datsun 280ZX, Nissan 300ZX Model Restrictions: Fits all 79-83 280ZX 2+2, all 81-83 280ZX Turbo, and all 84-89 300ZX Non Turbo. Code Guide: Datsun S130, Nissan Z31 Year Guide: 1979, 1980, 1981, 1982, 1983, 1984, 1985, 1986, 1987, 1988, 1989 " hey I also found this.. The second strongest Z31 manual transmission is the FS5W71C found in any 5 speed non turbo Z31. This transmission is internally the same as the transmission used in the 240SX, 180SX, Silvia, etc. A few people who have blown up their FS5R90As have swapped to the Z31's FS5W71C transmission and not had problems. A lot of 240SX owners have the 240SX version of this transmission mated to their SR20DETs and KA24DETs running 400+ hp with no problems. Any short throw shifter made for the 240SX (S12, S13, S14, S15) will fit perfectly in this transmission. does that mean go for it, the clutch will fit?

all i know So far is its a (84-89)ACT 300zx clutch I googled that clutch and I can Only find an ACT z31 clutch for that year as a 240mm clutch.. so Im guessing thats what Im looking at buying, would that fit? it was really easy cus I bought the car with the 240sx tranny swap, when that tranny blew I just bought another 240sx tranny and swapped the bellhousing, the custom driveshaft and ujoints were already there.. all I know right now is its a z31 clutch Im waiting to hear back which model and type of z31 clutch it is, (turbo, mm etc.)

so I can buy a very Nice z31 ACT clutch for $80, and I was wondering, with my current setup, turbo built engine, I have a 240sx transmission swap with a n42 block.. can I use this z31 clutch?? or is it out of the question?

http://sandiego.craigslist.org/csd/pts/2290628029.html these guys are selling there ground control coil overs in my city for 4300, already setup! do you think these will work on my 76 280z?? can I still weld them to work or no? I know people use the integra coil overs so I thought this was worth a shot to ask.. thanks!

ps. and its the oil cooler sandwich adapter (the oil filter adapter sandwich) I already have all the hoses and AN fittings etc. just lost the o ring so I want to buy a new one.. heres the one Im talking about.. http://www.glowshiftdirect.com/oil-cooler-sandwich-adapter-18-mm-15-thread.aspx

the thing is, I already have an adapter sandwich from a 280zx but the O-ring on inside is lost so I figured I would just buy a new one. im going to send PMS right now thanks guys do you guys know the thread size I need? i found one online in billet blue for $40 just wondering which size I need tho..

Ive ben researching my ignition system options.. so far, I was thinking of buying LS1 coils, and doing a COP setup, setup With my MSD6a and my haltech e11v2, I ran into these Pencil Coils from AEM, and I was wondering after all the reading I am doing, is this compatible? Or do I need a AEM CDI ignition? For some reason I dont think Just the MSD6a box alone will be sufficient for my build as far as Helping to prevent detonation, so I want a Strong spark setup.. so the LS1 coils with my MSD6a box seem Very good idea at the moment any help with this please dont hesitate

yes, I was told by Haltech since I have the change to Flat top pistons, a new spring pressure, and a slightly bigger bore on the cylinders he doesnt recommend I drive the car until it is re tuned.. now, when I take the car to get tuned, Im going to ask for a Mild tune not for performance, but for reliability, Im not concerned with power, I want her to be dependable as a daily driver.. Now, one thing I have been trying to figure out, with my build n42 .30bored block, flat top pistons, p90head with a NA cam and a regular felpro gasket, what would my compression ratio be? now, my timing is set at 20 after, do you guys recommend that be changed during the re tune? also, with this compression ratio do I have anything to worry about, or once the car is running do you think its safe to drive 7 miles to the tuners as long as I dont boost? I rather not call a tow truck, however I dont want to blow this engine so if its the best safest thing to do (which I have a feeling it is) I will do that... The MSD is just a coil driver, I dont believe its setup with my timing. Also, I would like to raise my RPM limit when I get a tune, what do you guys think about this? Oh, also I do have a 6psi spring I bought as well, do you guys think 9psi is okay or should I put the 6psi spring in?

n42 .30 bored block with p90 head with a NA cam with flat top pistons running a standard felpro head gasket, what is the compression ratio? its a turbo engine Im trying to get tuned in these next couple days..

yes! I need a 280zx oil cooler adapter sandwich right away pleeeeeease!

Ive been Google this recently, cant get a definite answer, but one forum a guy said he has a friend who has the haltech and the tech II but Im pretty sure he meant installed at different times.. so my question is, I have a haltech e11v2, is there any use for the tec II?? or is it only one or the other cant run both at the same time? thanks! I dont really understand if tecII is just an ignition system like MSD but much better and Not a CDI ignition or if its a ECU.. that why my question may seem stupid to you guys

well, I ended up sending my haltech e11v2 in, and the whole reason I didnt have spark was because my Ignition 1 driver was blown, so haltech repaired it and I Should be getting it back any day now.. I also switched out the spring to a 9psi spring, installed a msd6a as well. I found out that previously (apparently becuase the previous owner was waiting to upgrade the ignition) the car was tuned for 14psi and only tuned to 4500rpm. Now, since the engine it was tuned with was dished pistons on a f54 block, the only thing I need to do right now is some rewiring, finding a person to tune the haltech and figure out if I really need even get a retune. so things are on its way..

And no I didnt mean pick any two lines, Im talking about the coolant return lines for the turbo, but I Read that its for Water to cool the hot turbo, I run a turbo timer and dont exactly need them (so I read) but its better to run the coolant lines with ball bearing turbo for longevity, so I read.. its kind of confusing to me.. a mechanic that worked on the car told me to get rid of them because of my build and the model of turbo, that it would be better for heat.. so was just curious. by the way, on another not, I sent my Haltech e11v2 in, and they had to repair it, the ignition driver was Blown.. thats why I was getting no spark this entire time. but it is fixed now.

actually, I sort of figured out the question on the coolant lines, just please help me out with the MSD6a question if you can..

Just curious, Im running a GT30R garetts turbo, and I was wondering, are ALL the coolant lines needed running from the turbo the block? I was told you can disconnect 2 of the coolant lines, and it would actually be Better for heat for the turbo on my L28ET engine.. Also, when installing the MSD6a box with a Haltech e11v2, am I suppose to remove the Igniter and connect the MSD6a box straight to the coil via. haltech ignition wires that would normally connect to the igniter? I was told if I leave the Igniter and hook the MSD6a box to the Igniter that it would defeat the purpose of the CDI output. Any truth to these questions? I have been Google and searching for the past couple days but cant find a solid answer..

that reply wasnt directed towards you carjway I know youve helped me alot, Im talking to other people. Im not trying to argue with you guys. and yes I am "turning the wrenches" but No, I have no experience with an standalone ecu so yes the guy is a Tuner and hes doing the haltech and trying to get the car going again. anyways we have some more figuring out to do take care.

well, we did change out the coil, and put a more powerful MSD coil in there, along with changing the entire igniter with a working one from my friends car.. all this started right after my last swap, so thats why its so confusing to everyone involved working on the car.. I did check / change many fuses, the ground could be it.. thats why when I go into the shop tommorow, I actually printed out all the questions from this thread and Im going to go question by question to check off and get everything answered, but at this time fuses, grounds, relays (all working), and wires look fine.. for the second question, its a just a stock coil/igniter with a 82 turbo distributor.. this is my 3rd engine swap, and I never had this problem on the other 2 engines, we had No problem? and after this 3rd one, we switched out the transmission etc. and had to reset the timing wich is the only difference in swaps, That and I changed out the spark plugs to a bigger gap, but I doubt that could do it.. from my understanding, if the timing is off, I would not be getting my injectors clicking over or my fuel pump turning on.. which was the first situation, and now since I had the timing re set the injectors are clicking over, spark is the last thing to figure out now..the haltech and the distributor have been used together on this car for over 2 years that I know about, so I know the dizzy and compabatibility is not the issue..the guy at the shop did trace the wiring, and he said it all looks fine? we even changed out the harness from the dizzy to make sure that wasnt it.. the checklist you posted at the very bottom is what Im going over tommorow morning, and yes I am getting an RPM reading, and the guy working on the car has already hooked the haltech up to a laptop and said everything looks fine?

I dont see how this is so complicated for some of you to understand.. I was not getting spark, so to see What the issue was, WE TRIED A NEW AND IN WORKING CONDITION - Dizzy, Coil, Ignitor, etc etc. - WE just TRIED those as far as trying to determine if any of those would be the issue BUT no, still same situation.. understand now? I did buy those we just tried probable causes and then switched out the parts back to my friends Working 280z... make sense? there ARE wires coming out from under my dizzy, its a harness type thing, we already made a new harness for the dizzy, and still Nothing, and I do not have access to my haltech as far as MAPS and Settings etc, the guy at the shop is doing that, and states that it all checks out, and hooking up the haltech he gets signal, he gets RPM reading, there seems to be no issue with the haltech, perfect compression, fuel pump turns on, injectors clicking over, no spark.. We did follow the wires going out of the haltech, we checked the haltech, significantly, and still no issues there.. Haltech gets signal, rpm gauge works etc. I will continue to try and get more of the info youve asked for, and Im still waiting for the guy I bought the car from to write me back in email about those settings.. thanks again! Please, if anyone else can make an effort and try to help, I see you guys all post so many threads about stuff, and here I really need help so please try to understand this situation, I dont see why Im only getting One person to help me. If you guys dont want me here tell me and Ill piss off. I dont need to be bugging you. I thought this was a Z community, for people who need help and are experts, well I need help so thanks for all the outstanding help guys!

so I spoke to the shop that is doing the car, and he said the haltech is fine, were getting out fuel pump, injectors are clicking over, timing A on right, haltech is working fine, and he can log into it, and the compression he is said is outstanding, its just no spark.. and weve tried a new igniter, new dizzy, new coil even an msd blaster coil, were just not getting any spark to the distributor or the coil etc.. I just dont get it? what could this be..

I just haven't been able to figure out How the haltech is triggered. I know, that the if the timing is not right, the haltech wont send a signal to send spark etc. etc. I will try to find out today or tomorrow. I will see if he can do that with the haltech to figure out a better scenario. thank you!

so as some of you know I haven't been around for a while, I just finished my new swap, and as I posted about this situation months ago, its acured again! No Spark! Im getting No spark to the distributor, to the coil, no spark anywhere, OR I am getting Very little spark.. and then it goes away? Now, everything Was fine, then we swapped out my tranny, and entire engine.. Im sure most of you remember I have a stock coil, dumb igniter, and 280zx dizzy, I have a 76 280z with a 82 280zx turbo setup, running Haltech e11,v2 (could this be related?) right now the car is at Bill Shearers shop, and he cant figure it out So far, either.. I already swapped out for a new coil, and a new igniter, and still no spark. and the only difference this time is that I had to re do the timing.. but bill says its right on point? 20 after. So I was thinking, could it be some of these situations, Electrical problem? Short? Could my Haltech be damaged? we have hooked it up, and its turning on etc, no issues.. Relays are clicking over as well, but could that be it? I also just put a New alternator and it has a brand new voltage regulator internally its the maxima alternator, one other thing I did before this issue began was I changed out my spark plugs.. could it be just my dizzy? but we already swapped that out last time as well, and still no spark.. so still remains, very little spark, then it goes away, not sure where to go from here! thank you guys, please if you can, do reply anything will help..