R3VO 3VOM

Wheels were built by Pine Engineering out of NZ. With the exchange rate they were cheaper than you'd think (not $600 cheap but you get my point). Tires I'm running 235/50/15 Toyo R888 fronts and 275/50/15 Nitto NT555R.

SSR XR4 Longchamps. 15x11 -53 15x12 -51

This thread may get moved because this is kind of a Want to buy. But are you sure those are 3 piece? Every set of Epsilons I've seen (whopping 2 so I'm no expert on them) were 3 piece welded (so actually 2 piece). So replacing lips isn't something you can easily do in your garage. Either way check out Pine Engineering in New Zealand. Really good group of guys. I've had them do 2 15x12 XR4 Lonchamps for me before and having them do 2 15x11's to match now. They stock lips in 15" sizes. They won't be cheap because redoing wheels is not cheap by any means. But they will most likely be cheaper than here in the states (conversion rate is in our favor) unless you know a guy with the in.

First time out with the new rear setup. Now 15x12 -51. I'm now looking for some 16" BBS to use the fronts to run turbofan covers with. Anyone have a pair?

I'm not far behind you with mine. Just ordered new tires tonight. 17x10 -3 17x11.5 -22. Hard to find 4x114.3 pattern.

Bit of an update. Transmission drives awesome. Love being able to shift gears. The Hurst shifter is amazing. The .73 overdrive is great cruising down the highway. Dropped the engine RPM a lot. Not as good as the .64 T5 ratio but I'll take it over the 1:1. I've said it before and I will say it again: first gear is basically useless. I start in second half the time because it's not even worth being in first and shifting to second within 3 feet of starting off. It did develop a slight leak out of the 1-2 shift shaft after a few drives so pulled the car back in and pulled the cover to fix it. You can pull the cover off the transmission leaving it in the car which is nice. I can't tell if the reverse shaft is leaking as well, as the fluid from the 1-2 may have run down and gotten on the reverse. I'm thinking of changing it but in order to do it properly you have to disassemble the entire transmission which is something I'd rather not do. So I may try to get creative. It will come out the front of the case but removing the o-ring retainer might be a bit of a challenger without messing it up. I'm trying to source some new o-ring retainers so I can attempt to pull the one for the reverse shaft out of the front. However these transmissions aren't exactly common so it's proving to be "fun". I may just machine some out of aluminum or something to get a better fit. The stock retainers seem to be a plastic of some sort. Maybe machine down some new delrin plastic. Would make my life easy if I could just find some though. Nobody seems to sell them when they sell used covers so people must be getting them from somewhere. On a side note: If you're ever looking to do this swap and need to know what fluid it takes. 80W-90 or 75W-90 or 80W (cold climate) gear oil. I was worried I had the wrong stuff in it because reading internet forums some people said ATF while others said 10W-40 motor oil or other weight motor oil. No. The factory Chevy service manual for the trucks this transmission came from recommend those above weights of gear oil. So I'm going with what the factory manual says versus internet forums. That is, once I get it reassembled.

Well the transmission is in. I can't say that it was an easy road to travel but I finished it. Made the first drive yesterday. Few small kinks to work out but none of them are with the transmission. I changed to a traditional clutch fork and external slave cylinder setup because even after calling the manufacture I still could not get all of the air to bleed out of the hydraulic throw out bearing. It wouldn't move to release the clutch. And after reading a lot of reviews on all various brands of hydraulic throw out bearing I decided that if it didn't work I would be going with a traditional external slave; all of them seem to leak after a set amount of time and it's an amount of time that is way less than the unit should last. Got the point it didn't work so I went that route. The main issue here was that the bellhousing I was using is either for a truck or C3 corvette (couldn't find definitive answers either way). So I had to notch the firewall for clearance. Wasn't anything difficult; the most difficult part was building the box to enclose the notch and not catching the car on fire welding the box in. After driving it I will say overdrive is awesome. Cruising at 2000 rpm isn't the best but I'll take it over the 3300 I was spinning before. The clutch is the heaviest single plate I have ever driven. But that isn't "transmission" related. The trans shifts very smooth. I will say however that, even though the ratios are the exact same as a 700r4, 1st is basically useless. I never realized how fast the auto would shift out of first but you shift at more or less 5mph because you're winding out first gear. So in the end, I would personally do the swap again. These cars, in my opinion, need to be manual. Auto is nice but as I don't drive this car everyday I want to enjoy the experience. And the picked up mpg and drop in cruising rpm is really nice. What to take away from this thread? I would NOT recommend this swap if you have little fab skills. It's a good amount of work. The shifter bracket must be custom made and the shift arms extended and tucked close to the transmission. If you must attempt this swap I highly recommend the C4 corvette 4+3 bellhousing like JTR recommends for the T5 swap. It has the fork coming out around lower than my bellhousing and the slave cylinder is tucked very close. All this allows you to not have to notch your firewall like I did. The other camaro T5 housing that puts the trans at a 15 degree angle I would not recommend because then you'll have to make a custom shifter and may run into issues with the shifter box hitting the transmission tunnel; especially if you have a 240Z with the narrower tunnel.

Interested as well. I've been debating adapting an S13 system before but I'm worried the S13 front bag size wont fit in the Z shock tower. So a kit would be nice. I want the low look but I can't stand scraping everywhere. Been slammed hated it have since raised the car up.

I think this is an R180 is it not? The R200 3.36 came from the '79 280ZX 4 speed 2+2 I believe. Edit: if this site is correct the 3.36 R200 was only '79 http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/GearRatios.html

I don't think that's possible to do. I say "think" because I'm sure somewhere on the "interwebs" someone has done it. But there isn't enough case space nor the correct fluid passages or anything of that nature to support an internal overdrive (why the 700R4 is so much larger). It's easier to just swap in a 700R4 or 200R4 (if space is a concern) and be done with it. Yes you'll have to move your crossmember but that's not the end of the world. It's an easy job. About as easy as replacing the transmission. Few new holes and you're good. If you have a built TH350 you can always tack on a gear vendors overdrive unit behind it. It'll make the driveshaft super super short (probably around 10"-12" with the factory R200 longnose) but if you have a ton of money invested in the trans it's an option. They aren't cheap though. For the money a gear vendors cost you could sell your built TH350 and buy a built 700R4. But for most just swapping is way easier.

Ebay listing when it was for sale: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Professionally-restored-1972-Datsun-240-Z-Resto-Mod-/161386307368?afsrc=1&rmvSB=true It looks nice but nothing that's really mind blowing. I thought he was known for crazy unique/custom Ridler award winning rides?

I've been through this debacle so I know a little bit (assuming you have the JTR crossmember or something similar). I was running a TH350 but I can't stand turning 3200 down the highway. 700R4 is further back by about an inch if you run the tailshaft housing JTR says not to (early caprice style). It'll be about 3-4" back if you run the JTR recommended tailshaft housing (from the late model caprice). The 700R4 however allows you to keep the same length driveshaft (it's a slightly longer transmission but it won't bottom out). You may find you'll need to also modify your exhaust routing and hammer the tunnel out a bit more because of how large the 700R4 is compared to the TH350. Muncie 4-speed of certain years will bolt up in the stock location. I've read they changed the length of the muncie some year and the mount moved slightly. The later model will be in the same location as the TH350. The earlier ones I believe are a little forward as they are like an inch shorter than the later model ones. However, the Muncie is shorter overall than the TH350 in most applications (some say its the same length. The general consensus including me find they're around 2-3" shorter) so you'll need to modify your driveshaft. A muncie doesn't gain you anything as it's still a 1:1 final drive just like the TH350. I'm running an NP440 out of an '80's Chevy pickup (you can find my thread in this subforum covering my swap) and the transmount bolted right up to the stock TH350 crossmember and in the same TH350 location. I did however have to get a new driveshaft 3" longer than my TH350 one and a small modification to the shifter box placement. T5 and T56 I'm almost certain are further back but I could be wrong here (these pull big money around me so I never looked into them). So in the end it's what do you want. Stay auto or go manual? 4-5-6 gears? Either way something will need modifying.

Be down the U.S. east coast anytime? Haha. I have a severely cracked one you can have for free.

WELL I took today and got the transmission in. It's tight but I didn't have to cut any of the tunnel. After catching the car on fire once I really am hesitant to welding on anything close to the interior. I did have to smack one spot for the shifter box but otherwise there is plenty of space. It's a lot more narrow than the TH350 that came out of the car. I did have to modify one shift linkage to tuck it closer to the transmission (remember, mine have been modified once before me and again when I lengthened them for my new shift bracket) but otherwise the linkages cleared the transmission tunnel and even cleared the TH350 JTR crossmember. Here is the transmission in the car. Clearance on the side of the transmission tunnel between the shifter box and the shift linkages. The stock mounts have already been removed per the JTR manual. Interior picture. Shifter comes up almost center of the factory hole. 3 inches back and once inch down seems to be a good spot; although another 1/2 inch back wouldn't hurt. It should be noted that my car is a factory auto car so it has an extra plate welded in for the auto shifter. You can see outlined in black sharpie the factory manual shifter opening. As of the time of the picture I hadn't removed the factory auto shift plate making it as wide as the factory manual opening. Here is the clutch master I am running per the hydraulic throw out bearing recommendations. Didn't have to slot any of the holes. Bolted right on. Nice fit. Now just waiting on the driveshaft to be shortened and I'll be ready to fill it with fluid and drive. Hopefully it doesn't have any issues. I really don't want to pull it back out again.