jimzdat
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Posts posted by jimzdat
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What he said; I have all the stuff out of my 76, but not sure how that would work in your car without a lot of fabrication. You can find my "76 part out" in the parts for sale area
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Guess I'm spoiled - hour and a half drive and I can be on the doorstep of Jeg's; 3 hours and at Summit.
Want me to drive up and smack someone for ya?
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That is because you have one awesome looking garage, how big is that?
I found my dream house the other day, the wife even asked if we could afford to do it because she wanted me to have it (or maybe she just wanted my crap out of the house). It had a 12m x 12m x 4.5m high besser block shed (Read 40' x 40' x 15').
Thanks -
The garage is 40x60, 12' ceilings; it was there when we bought the house (ok, it ws the major deciding factor on the house)
It's my "doghouse" if needed too - has a bathroom, gas furnace, washer, dryer, fridge, microwave, satellite radio, internet - and all the cars and tools.
As far as emblems on the Shelby - I'll try and get down there and get a pic for ya
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Actually, the one on the left is a '07 Shelby GT350 - belongs to my boss, who is currently garageless. And yes, it's a real honest to goodness Shelby.
If it makes everyone feel better, here's a pic where you can at least see the nose of the Z on the other side of the garage (ignore the dog, he's a doofus):
And off to the right is a 65 Fairlane, belongs to one of the guys who works for me (see a trend here? I seem to have the communal garage)
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another project car! Not a Z, but it's what the wife has been wanting for years, and the price was right (free!)
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Thanks for the reminder to replace one of mine - neighbor's Jeep decided to do an impression of a hibachi a few weeks ago, my garage was the closest extinguishing device.
Managed to get the fire out, but the Jeep didn't survive - we had it out by the time the FD got there.
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Mike;
Pickings are pretty slim in my area, but you may find some options here if willing to travel:
http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=342
(hopefully it doesn't require a login)
I found my truck on there (2003 crewcab longbed dually DMAX) a couple years ago, picked it up with some healthy mileage for $16K
Like most forums, they have some drama, but shouldn't be too hard for you to weed through the trash.
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While I don't agree with the way the idea was brought up (Ron brings up some good points about tact and the "right way" to address issues); I think it may be a good concept.
It is different than what is shown at the bottom of threads now ( the similar threads list) - instead, it adds a button on the "Post new topic" screen which allows for a quick search to see if similar topics have been posted.
I know it is in use on TDIClub forums (also running vbulletin), so it may be an easy addition.
Here's a screenshot of where the button would end up:
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IIRC, you almost HAVE to buy them from a Swagelok supplier, unless you happen to find them on eBay or some such place - I don't think Grainger or McMaster sell them?
Have you tried a supplier search at http://www.swagelok.com just for good measure? If nothing else, it will at least get you the Swagelok part number, then you can try searching for those
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Dang, wish I had seen this a couple weeks ago - we just got back from Sturgis
We actually went out a week early, ended up making a side trip out to Yellowstone on the bikes - all total, put down about 2000 miles in less than 2 weeks
We were out at the "Chip" - that place was downright packed
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If it's anything like mine was, it has a lot to do with all the circuitry involved in the fuel pump:
First there is the microswitch in the AFM (closes when the AFM sees flow) - mine was bypassed by cutting those 2 wires and splicing
Then it all has to trigger the fuel pump relay (mine was under the passenger seat, so I imagine that's fairly common) - mine worked, but I've seen a couple where the AFM switch was bad, so the relay wouldn't close; rather than troubleshoot and repair properly, most people trace the circuit as far as the passenger side relay and just jumper it out somehow
Not the best way to do it, but I guess it works?
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Stock L28 head? IIRC, the manifold for the carbs isn't going to seal right due to the reliefs cut into the head for the injectors - but I could be wrong?
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I was seriously considering making my own ENTIRE harness from bulk wire bought off FleaBay. At least that way, I can be assured of the proper gauge wire. What has bothered me the most about the majority of ready made harnesses is the use of VERY light AWG wire.
There are also much less expensive [& COMPARABLE] harnesses out there for less than PainFUL[less].
Have you looked at the wiring on a modern car lately? 20-22 AWG wire is the norm for many things these days--electrical loads aren't what they used to be I guess?
The EZWiring harnesses are all either 14 or 16 AWG (can't remember for sure)--probably a lot heavier than it really needs, but what the heck.
And while building your own with bulk wire gives you exactly what you want, I'll spend the little extra for the benefit of all the multicolored wire and markings to follow circuits with.
I don't see it on their site anymore, but EZWiring used to make an "all black" harness--everything was still labeled, but all wires were black--marketed it to streetrodders who wanted a nice clean look
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Their most expensive harness is under 200 - and that gets you a 21 circuit harness
I've installed 3 of them now, and no complaints
Similar to the Painless (wires all labeled every few inches), without the pain in the wallet
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Rear hatch is considerably larger, as is the glass--so unless you have a weatherstrip stretcher/shrinker, it aint gonna work
Not sure what the exact difference is on the windshield, but I think it has to do with the exact angle of the roofline, since it is so much "flatter"
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sounds like a pretty decent price; I paid 1100 for my Millermatic 210 about a year ago (brand new price)
Should work fairly well for what you need, just remember to NOT try and run a long, continuous bead on a body panel--you WILL warp it all to hell and back
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Basically all you will need to do (on the above diagram) is connect terminal 87 to the fuel pump hot wire, and 86 will be "ignition hot"--that will cause your pump to run whenever the key is on.
That said, it will actually be overriding a safety feature--many people will install a "snap switch" in the circuit that needs to see positive oil pressure to complete the circuit--that way if engine dies, no more fuel pumping out.
IIRC, the original AFM has a small switch inside that keeps the fuel pump from running unless there is flow going through it--if you manually open the flapper, it will complete the circuit
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You should be good to go--the cars are essentially identical from the firewall forward, and many of the parts on the interior can be used (dash, etc)
Doors are of course different, as well as the hatch
Rear end should essentially be a bolt in, but I don't remember for sure--I'm sure someone can chime in with more info
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Try this diagram (designed for basic "Bosch" style relays--the square ones most commonly available)
Just substitute "Fuel pump" for "Horns"
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jegs has "a kit" for the datsun that is nhra legal. heavier tubing. but since you have the 2+2, a standard kit will not work without mods. its not like you are afraid of doing any mods.
jimbo
Actually, Jegs has 2 different kits, one of which is designated for a '78 2+2:
Jegster 942604K - Jegster ''Datsun'' Roll Cage Kits
4 and 8 point roll bars manufactured from 1-3/4'' x .134-wall mild steel tubing
10 and 12 point roll cages manufactured from 1-5/8'' x .134-wall mild steel tubing
Includes 6'' x 6'' x 1/8'' mounting plates
Some tube ends in some kits are notched while most tube ends are not notched for a better custom fit in your particular set-up. This ''extra material'' provides you some leeway for a great fit and easier installation.
8, 10, and 12 point cages exceed NHRA and IHRA standards
Complete, easy-to-follow installation instructions included
Welding required
Datsun 2+2, 1978
550-942604K 10-Point Roll Bar Kit
$224.99
I only know this because I currently have one of these kits in my garage, waiting for me to get off my butt and install it--I see no reason it won't fit the earlier 2+2 models, since the main difference was the raised false floor in the back
Jim
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I found it hard to see that pic, but I assume the mil-spec CPC are like the old "cannon plugs" I'm used to seeing on aeroderivative gas turbines? I am pretty sure you can get those from Digi-Key--they sell to the public, and no minimum order
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Weird, cause they were advertising the same thing down there?
Wonder if they were just hoping to make a few $$$ off the internet ads, or if maybe there is another division of the company?
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What the...
Suburban Auto Group is located in Sandy, Oregon but why haven't I seen these commercial on the local channels? That definately looks like Mount Hood in the commercial too.
I found the commercials on local TV, as well as the billboards, when I was on a business trip to the Salem/Roanoke, VA area; so I think it's a different Suburban Auto Group
WTB Full 280zx AC components and center controls
in Parts Wanted
Posted
Chances are I have a majority of the parts on the inside - see this thread for more info: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/119200-part-out-76-22-body-shell-is-gone/
The HVAC box is one large module for the most part; blower sits on the passenger side, and hoses route AC to the dash vents.