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jimzdat
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Posts posted by jimzdat
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And as for your other question, the red and green wires at that terminal block go to the transistor ignition unit--God only knows what they do once they get inside there
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If I recall it was all metal (did they even have plastic tanks on imports back then?)
I just went here: www.rockauto.com and looked up a radiator for a 77 cvcc 3bbl motor, and they run about 82 for A/T and 92 for M/T--might want to check them out
FWIW RockAuto has fairly good prices on lots of stuff-I got a 38 gal rear tank for my truck for under 200 bucks shipping included--the site takes a while to load, but they have a real nice catalog interface
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Scottie--the radiators in the old Honda CVCC Civics only went across half the car-considering what the overall width of the car was, you could probably fit 3 or 4 in there. I used to own a 77 CVCC wagon, and was surprised that little dinky thing actually cooled it--mioght be worth a shot
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Another good site, with inexpensive master kits: www.engine2go.com
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Hi Craig--if I get them or mine done first, I'll forward everything to you--BTW, since I'm starting on this project, hows it going with my '76 FSM?
Jim
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OOPS--guess an email would help huh?
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Thanks, Chris--plans may or may not help--I'm actually thinking of mounting these nice 6" casters I got on it, so the whole thing is portable--I may have to change the layout of the "legs" so that the two ends dont try to go their separate ways once it's got weight on it--either that or a really low tie bar to hold em together
Jim
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I am planning on tearing down my 76 2+2, and since my work is nice enough to provide lots of angle iron and a welder, I figured I'd build my own rotisserie--I was hoping maybe some of you guys that have one(Pete? Chris?) could help me out with a few measurements (pivot height, suggested leg width, etc). I know I could probably figure it out, but I was hoping to get a starting point.
Thanks, Jim
BTW--is it going to make a difference on my height since its a 2+2 and has more roof line?
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Kevin--if it is that switch in the AFM, it usually just needs to have the contact strips bent into shape, and then just silicone the plastic lid on (gee-think maybe I've done this?)or, if you plan on yanking the motor to go v8--just clip and splice the 2 wires in the harness that are for the switch--not sure about a 78, but on my 76 they were the 2 on the end closest to the throttle body
Jim
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Kevin-
One of the basics to remember with that system is that the AFM controls the fuel pump via a microswitch on the "flapper"--the fuel pump will not run until there is airflow. Also you should check the harness where it plugs into both the AFM and TPS--both are weak points, especially when it comes to water getting in them
I have a copy of the 78 FSM at home, I can try to look stuff up for you if need be--email me direct -jimzdat@earthlink.net
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Why? I would like tilt, as I am 6'8", and want to get all the leg room I can, hoping that tilt will get me a little more.(That's why I drive 2+2's-more head room) Also since I will be tearing the car down, I will probably rewire it, looking at Painless universal type, if using a GM column, can get the GM harness to easily hook up Ignition. Lites aren't a problem, I'm running H4s with 80/100 bulbs--put in relays when I installed those (read about everyone else's troubles first!)
Thats why I was hoping for pics--see if it's viable, and if it looks too tacky
Thanks,
Jim
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I came across a message on a newsgroup where a guy had put a GM column in his Z, but he didn't have a valid email, so I am wondering if anyone has done this? If so, got pics? at the very least I was hoping to find out what model GM column might work, since I will be tearing down my 76 soon (just bought a 74 to drive in the meantime)
Thanks,
Jim
Northstar Z update
in Miscellaneous Tech
Posted
Jamie--I have seen a couple of Northstar motors with "a funny noise"--first things you want to check are all the bearings (yes, I'm staing the obvious) but then look at the cam assembly; they had a problem for awhile with cams that would wear prematurely and cause odd noises
Jim