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jimzdat

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Posts posted by jimzdat

  1. do you mean : aux@*******.org

     

    Joe, he did that for a reason--there are a bunch of idiots out there that use software to scan thru webpages and forums looking for email addresses so they can put em on spam lists. Writing the email address the way aux did keeps that software from finding it, therefore keeping him off one more spammer's list.

     

    If you would, please edit your post (or have a mod do it) so he doesnt get screwed

     

    Jim

  2. And for those wishing to do a wiring harness upgrade, here's a basic diagram for that: (not my diagram)

     

    headwire.gif

     

     

    I modified this diagram slightly so I could use the stock dimmer switch easier:

    1-Where it shows the Ground connected to terminals 85 on the relays, run 12V instead, switched on by headlight switch

    2-where it says "from OE circuit" hook up wires from dimmer switch--dimmer switch will now ground one relay or the other, making lights go on

     

    The whole writeup can be found here:

    http://catalog.com/susq/other/headlamp.htm

     

    FWIW, this is the place I bought my Hella H4 conversion from--excellent service, and decent prices--would definitely recommend them.

  3. I've done this swap to 3 of the Z cars I've owned, so I'll try and remember what the heck I did.

    I always used the 5 speed from a 77-78 model. There are different ratios available in the 79-83 models, but I can't remember exactly what is better (think it was the %th gear ratio)

     

    Parts you will need:

    Clutch slave cylinder

    Clutch master cylinder

    Metal line to connect the above 2

    Flex line at slave cylinder

    clutch and brake pedals from a manual car (most of the brackets are already under the dash, just need to switch the pedals around)

    shifter

    metal plate that goes between engine and trans

    flywheel

    clutch kit

     

    On some 240's, you have to do some trimming of the shifter hole to get it to work right--can't remember the specifics though

     

    I'm sure there are some little tidbits I've forgotten, but I'll try to update as I remember them.

     

    Overall, it's not a hard job--the last one I did took me about 3 hours total, but in all honesty, I've been wrenching on cars for 20 years, so your results may vary slightly

     

    Good luck,

    Jim

  4. If you want something fairly quiet, do NOT get the twice pipes system--I bought one (it was cheap) and did not like it--my dad described it as "a cessna flying 3 feet off the ground at full throttle"

     

    I had a 2 1/2" pipe run to the rear (had a header, so it came right off the collector) and hung a 4" supertrapp on the end--that was about half as loud as the twicepipes system

  5. Uh guys, it might just be me, but I would think that if you don't want people to respond to the posts, why not just lock them? IIRC, they can still be left as a "sticky", and it fixes the problem of people posting BS responses all the time

     

    Don't get me wrong, I think the above-mentioned posts have been on some very good topics, and contain a lot of valuable info (and will hopefully help weed out the unwanted, especially Bob's latest post)

    Just trying to help keep everything cleaned up and avoid a bunch of extra posts

  6. Fire at a transformer that is part of a ConEd plant--since I work at a power plant, we heard about it about 2 minutes after the grid went down.

     

    Basically, the region was just overloaded, and the surge caused by the loss of the transformer is enough to take the grid down.

     

    On the plus side, the price we were selling power for doubled right about then too :D

  7. The EZ Wiring kit is actually pretty good quality, and easy to use--all wires are marked every few inches, and the bundles coming off the fuseblock are well organized.

     

    My buddy and I installed one of their kits in a 48 Chevy truck last year--took me a couple days to have it all laid out and routed the way we wanted it, and then it was just a matter of making all the terminations

     

    definitely worth every penny, and probably just as damn good as the painless one

  8. With a roof rack it MIGHT be able to, but I don't know if I'd want to risk it--the metal isn't all that thick, and depending on where the rack rests on the roof it may dent it.

     

    I suppose a lot of it depends on the kayak also--whitewater or touring?

    My wife and I have a couple of touring kayaks (Perception Carolina 16 and a Perception America 13.5)--combined weight is just over 100 lbs; not sure I'd want to put them on top of ANY car, much less a Z. I looked into getting a rack for my Bonneville, but that would have been close to $300, and no guarantee that it would have held up worth a damn.

     

    So I just put em on a trailer behind the Bronco--dont have to lift em as high that way. :-D

  9. I bought a set of carbs from ZTherapy just before Scott sold it--I don't know what exactly MSA is selling, but the ZT carbs are not mere rebuilds--there are some mods done for reliability:

    new throttle shafts

    bearings for shaft

    stuff like that--chances are the MSA ones still have the old bushings in them.

    When I bought mine, I actually bought just the main carb bodies, and swapped over the rest of my parts--but they worked just great.

    A friend of mine bought one of the early sets from ZT (set #12, to be exact) and we were able to bolt em on and start it as soon as the fuel bowls filled up--a few minor mixture tweaks and they were working great.

     

    IMHO, buy the ZT carbs--don't think you can go wrong with 'em

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