jimzdat
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Posts posted by jimzdat
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Could probably be done, but plumbing the intake would be interesting--the air intake is on the back (bellhousing end) of the motor--it would have to sit fairly far forward in order to give you room to run the intake duct
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I had one in my 76, which then got transplanted into my 74, which then got sold, and it was still holding up just fine after almost 5 years.
Some of the earlier ones they sold had some quality issues, but I think they got it fixed on later ones.
Don't know about the whole line of them, but the ones for early models are only available with the trans cooler in them (set up for automatics)--they used to sell both, but no longer do (in fact, I bought the last one for a manual car--lucky me)
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When I converted my cars from auto to manual, I didnt need to replace the pedal box--everything is already there--you just need the pedal and pivot bolt--there was even a blank plate on the firewall where the master cylinder goes
But that is on the later models (did 2 74's and a 76) it may be different for the 240's
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Well, I'm 6'8", and I can fit in a Z no problem--in the 2-seaters, my head rubs the headliner most of the time, but in the 2+2 (which is all I've ever owned) I have a couple inches of clearance since the roofline is different
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As you guys come up with more drawings/files/random scribbles/etc, just email to me at the address above, and I can host em for the general public--keeps em all in one spot that way
Jim
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OK, got the pics, and they are posted, so here's the link for everyone's benefit:
http://hybridz.jimzdat.com/zpics.htm
The pics are kinda large files, so I didnt want to bog down the board
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Clint, sounds like one helluva undertaking, that might just come in handy.
Email it to me, and I can host it for the list--got plenty of space
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oops--guess that would help, huh?
Mine was on the left side--at the bottom of the dash, the steel frame forms a little "shelf" along the bottom edge--there is a small box mounted on top of it, midway between the column and the door jamb--should have 2 wires connected to the top of it (I think they are red/white, fairly small gauge wires, but not sure)--unplug that and it will shut up.
Or, you can remove the plastic cover from the bottom of the steering column to expose the ignition switch--there is the main harness that plugs into the back of it, and a smaller harness that attaches to the side, towards the end where you put the key in (again, you'll see those red wires)--unplug that and it'll have the same effect--there is a small switch inside the ignition assembly that tells the car when the key is in the ignition and the door is open--either the switch in the ignition is screwed up, or the secondary circuit on your door switch is grounded (there are actually 2 switches built into the drivers door pin switch--but that wiring is even harder to get to)
I'd try and get pics for you, but my car is in a million pieces right now, so it wouldnt help
Jim
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IIRC the noisebox is under/behind the dash, just below where the dash light resistor switch is--kinda a pain to get to. Has 2 terminals on top
You can either unplug the box, or the 2 small wires that go up to the ignition switch--it sounds like the key buzzer switch is FUBAR, and making the buzer stay on maybe?
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Remove the trim panel around the heater controls/vents
When you get that off, you'll see the vent "diffuser"--big plastic vent thingy in the way--there are 2 screws (1 per side) with the heads facing you--take those out
There are 4 screws (2 each side) that hold little brackets in place--take those out (sometimes these scrwes are a PITA)
Take the diffuser thingy out of the dash
you should now be able to get all 3 of the gauges in the center out, just by removing the straps, and bringing them down.
Removing the whole dash is a little harder--there are a bunch of screws along the bottom of the windshield--gotta remove them
There are 2 brackets that attach from the transmission tunnel to the dash--they gotta go too
Unbolt the steering column and let it lay on the floor (or as far down as it'll go)
Most of the electrical connectors under the right side of the dash will need to be unplugged
There are some wires on the drivers side that go to the door jamb switch--they have to be undone also
Couple more screws on each side, at the ends of the dash (Where it meets the kick panels)
It helps to remove the center console and shifter, in case you havent already
Thats all I can come up with from my feeble memory--if you run into more problems, post em and we'll see if we cant figure it out
Jim
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Basically, everything from the dash forward is pretty much the same--the 2+2 doors are about 6 inches longer, so they aren't gonna fit --you have to remember that the 2+2 was considerably longer than the 2 seater model
Not sure about the tail light assemblies, but I do believe that they are the same
Most everything from the dash back is (at the very least) a little different, except maybe the seats
If you have any other Q's go ahead and post em--maybe it's been asked before, maybe it hasn't
I might be able to help a little on the 2+2 models, as that's all I've owned for the last 13 years
Jim
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Guy up there is selling an older Bronco that I'm considering--depending on what it looks like in pics he is going to be sending, I may end up buying it--anyone in the area that might be able to take a look at it for me and let me know if I should run away screaming?
TIA,
Jim
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Try this: http://www.mailwasher.net/
Haven't used it myself, but it has some good reivews--might be worth the free download
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While the plug is appreciated
, hold off for a little while on making a link to it--once Uncle Sam sends me my refund, I'm getting my own domain, and I'll be moving the list over there -
ttt--since I posted this late last nite
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Many forum software packages allow a "View Posts Since Last Visit" option, instead of just "Today's" topics--is this something missing in the UBB software, or just not turned on?
I may be in the minority, but it's kind of a pain to try and wade thru every section of the forum when I go out of town for a few days, be nice if I could just click on a link to see everything I missed--might be a few pages, but at least they would be all together.
I know that both Snitz and phpBB forums offer it, don't know about UBB--but UBB can be converted to phpBB fairly easily--just don't know what our server's capabilities are.
Just wondering,
Jim
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Mike-sorry to see it have to go, but you gotta have your own priorities.
Let me know when you want the site changed to reflect the shutdown, and I'll just put a placeholder up in case you ever want to try it again (if you're gonna keep the webspace that is)
Good luck in your endeavors,
Jim
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OK, from the 2002 rulebook, E.T. class:
"Cars running 10.99 or quicker that weigh more than 2000 pounds with IRS without upper and lower (both) control arms must replace swing axle differential with conventional differential housing assembly. Cars with IRS using upper and lower (both) control arms may retain swing axle assembly regardless of weight or e.t."
That is for Super Pro, Pro, Sportsman classes, running 7.5 or slower
Looks like you'll have to switch out that axle to compete in NHRA--sorry
BTW, it also states that you must retain at least on operating hydraulic shock absorber per wheel--rigid mounted suspensions are prohibited
The rule book also has contact info for the various divisional directors and tech leaders--they may be able to tell you if the strut will act as a control arm, but I honestly dont think it will count--if you want to call them, let me know what state you are in and I'll post the info
if you need any of the other specs, let me know and I'll look em up for you
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Yes the password is a very basic thing, just to keep auto bots out of it--so far I've had no complaints, and in fact, the MG site it is modeled after didnt even do that much, but I dont know if they had problems or not
As far as getting on the list, if you go to the Helper's page, there is a link at the top which takes you to the registration form--it then sends me an email, and I go in and update the HTML (slow process, but it keeps the file sizes down on my free webspace)
I emailed SuperDan once about linking to it from here, but I think it may have gotten lost somewhere, since I never heard back
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I've got the 2002 rulebook sitting on my desk, but I'm not exactly sure what class the Z fits in--if someone knows that info, I'll get you the exact specs out of the rulebook
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If you just don't have the webspace, email me the pics--I've got extra room on some of my sites, and I'll post em and send you a link
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Hey Scottie--I don't know jack about Saab's (been lucky enough to never accept a job working on one)
but I did find this off google:
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Actually, it will tend to foul the plugs faster--on the early SU carbs, pulling the choke caused the nozzle (the part the needle slides inside of) to drop almost a 1/4 inch, in essence richening the mix--it also kicked the throttle plates open, but only if you pulled back all the way, or had the cables adjusted wrong.
I am assuming we are talking about the early carbs judging from the "mix screw thingy" comment above--the later carbs did not operate the same way
The "funky round tool with tube and bubble" is a UniSyn--you place it over the airhorn of the carb, adjust the disc in the center so that the bubble moves up to a certain point (up to you--I usually went to the halfway mark)--then you place it on the other carb (without adjusting the center disc) and adjust the second carb to match the airflow of the first
I'm sure someone can give better directions, I'm going off of memory here.
May want to go to a local VW shop (if you have one) and talk to the guys that work on old bugs--they run multiple carbs on those all the time, and in fact, that's where I bought my unisyn
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Also consider going to www.ztherapy.com and ordering the "Just SU" video--4 hours of info on rebuilding and tuning the SU carbs
I had the video when I had a SU equipped car, and found it to be a very useful tool, and well worth the 20 bucks
, hold off for a little while on making a link to it--once Uncle Sam sends me my refund, I'm getting my own domain, and I'll be moving the list over there
Time to update your browser
in Non Tech Board
Posted
I'm currently using NS7 (kinda pretends to be Mozilla) and am quite happy with it--I prefer it over IE because it allows me to have my browser and email client all in one program, unlike the microsoft world.
I tried Opera, but was never quite happy with their new mail client--maybe I just didn't spend enough time trying to figure it out?
(BTW-for those of you who are using the free version of opera, if you were to go to http://astalavista.box.sk and evter "opera" and a version number in the search window, you might just find a way around those ads--not condoning piracy, just lookin for loopholes )