jimzdat

Jamie--I haven't done this (yet), but I am planning on doing it in the future; I have actually been looking at GM steering columns from camaros, firebirds, even S-10's with floor shift. The advantage to a GM column is that the painless kit is available with the plugs to connect to it--makes wiring the ignition and turnsignal assy a little easier. The only thing I haven't figured out yet is what the heck to do for a headlite switch--not too many cars have it on the column. Please do keep us posted, regardless--my project isn't anywhere near completion, but always dredging for ideas. Jim

I can't see em either, Scottie (at least with Netscape)--if I right-click and choose "show image" it tells me I don't have permission to view it

quote You'd be OK on this one, as Carfax only recognizes the "standardized" VIN format that came out in the early 80's (unless they've changed something lately) quote: If you pulled the VIN tags off a junked car, I think it might be possible that someone would eventually notice that a car with a Junk Title is all of a sudden, pounding the pavement again. This, however, is a very valid point--taking the VIN from a car that has had the title marked as "salvaged", like some states do, would cause a nightmare when it came time to register it. OTOH, if the cars in question both happened to belong to you, it might be possible to actually get away with it Just my $.05 (inflation) Jim

Well, if Dan can't find your original, maybe we can work with this writeup, adding specifics for earlier Z cars: http://catalog.com/susq/other/headlamp.htm This is the shop I bought my H4 conversion kit from, and he includes the instructions with every kit he sells

By "shunts" do you mean the fusible links? If so, is the one that's not showing power dead on both ends? that is about the only thing between the battery and headlite switch that can go out-sometimes they don't totally melt thru when they go, the insulation can still look OK. BTW, no, there is not a relay for the headlites--but a good fix is to put one in; if you like, I'm sure one of us can probably scrounge up a drawing to help you get em wired in (I figure Pete the relay king has one, but he's probably got his hands full about now) Keep us posted, Jim

Unless you've made mods to the enigine (cam, valves, etc) there is no advantage to the SM needles-they are more for modded motors--on a stock L28, the original needles will work just fine, the hardest part is actually getting the things adjusted right in the first place. I am currently running an L28 in my 260 2+2, with 3-screw SU's (bodies have been redone by ZTherapy-new shafts with roller bearings-no more vacuum leaks at the shaft!)and am maintaining 20MPG, and it pulls nice and strong all day without a hitch. As far as the intake is concerned, I think it was the combo of early carbs and 260 mainfold that gave you a power gain, but I don't recall how significant the gain was. (As a disclaimer, most of my knowledge of SU carbs is compliments of Scott Bruning-there may be more info I have missed, or misquoted, on his site-www.ztherapy.com Drop him an email, or give him a call-he'll have an answer for you. As an added note, his new SU videotape is an excellent tool for anyone trying to work on SUs)

Just had to rub it in, huh Scottie? Here I sit with a 97 Grand Prix with the normally aspirated 3800, and you have to go and burst my bubble telling me I can't just bolt all the pieces on! I will say one thing--while the SC version is nice and beefy--the NA is no slouch either--my GP sees 5500 RPM every so often, and it just keeps going without a hitch-I love that thing! Sometimes that old pushrod technology just keeps shining thru dont it?

Scotty--email me whatever pics you need up, and I can post them on my site--I've still got about 8MB of space I can play with

Jamie-have you replaced the shifter bushings? The original design had some cheesy plastic bushings to tighten everything up, and over time they tend to "disappear"--you can still get new ones from the dealer (I think) or possibly MSA--probably not too pricey Or, if you're feeling energetic, you could probably make your own using some teflon washers and a bronze bushing from Home Depot it may not seem like much, but that 1/16" of slop at the pivot point is going to be greatly exaggerated at the top of the shifter Jim

I don't know if it'll help or not, but the crossmember for my car (a 76 280 2+2, but the 2 seater should be the same) is currently sitting on the garage floor next to the car, so if you need any measurements let me know, and I'll try and get em for you Jim

AHA! I even managed to find it again: Ebay As of now, it's at 30 bucks--but the auction has 5 more days As far as your other problems--I don't know about the tach, but you're right about the fuel gage-sender, wires, gage. On a 76, there will be 3 wires on the sending unit, one is ground, one is for the low fuel sensor, the third is the actual gage signal (the signal wire is attached to the sender at the highest point) get an ohmmeter, and check between the ground and signal terminals-the range of the sender is ~10-80 Ohms, if you can pull the sender and cycle it, you'll know if it's working right. To check the gage, simply use a jumper wire between the signal wire and the ground coming off the harness, then turn the key on for a few seconds-the gage should peg out on the full mark (I think) HTH, Jim

Check ebay--just last nite, I noticed a guy selling off his V8Z project pieces, and the speedo cable was up there--cant remember what the current price was tho Jim

Zach, I don't know exactly where in CA you're at, but I bought my Pertronix "Ignitor" setup from Dave Turner Motorsports down in San Diego--800.854.6640 www.daveturner.com If I remember right, I paid around 80 bucks for it, but that was also a few years back, so it may have gone up... Jim

Optima box install Davy, here's some pics of a guy who stuffed a Optima in a Moroso box in the back of his 'stang--don't know the exact price of the box, but if you go to www.moroso.com and search for "battery box" it'll give you a little more info about it Jim

Davy--I was looking thru a copy of "Truckin" magazine (it was at work and I was bored) and while most of the magazine was full of worthless trucks sitting 1/4" off the ground, I did notice a battery box specifically for the optima-if you can wait a couple days till I go back to work, I'll try and get the name of the company for you

As I'm sure other people can tell you-AZ Z may have a nice looking setup, but dealing with the guy is a whole other story--you would be a lot better off if you just deal with Mike (SCCA) at www.fonebooth.com for suspension stuff

I can at least get you overall dimensions if needed-my engine may not sit as low in a Z due to the fact it has a 6 qt oilpan (truck application)--but if you needed, say-width, with headers. or bottom pan to top of carb, etc-I could probably get that Jim

And if you need more help with measurements, just ask--I have a 351W with headers, Edelbrock intake and Holley 4BBL, no A/C, just power steering pump and Alt.--(plus it's in an 83 F350, so just getting to some of those measurements might be a little easier than on your pony, BLKMGK) Jim

I saw a couple on ebay 2 weeks ago for that price-guess I didn't realize they were quite that high-I bought mine from the power plant I work at-got the welder and a little off-road cart for $200

Hi Larry-yep you got yerself a early 74 -blinkers under bumper, narrow 240 style bumper as opposed to big, wide 280 style on the later models-If you go by production dates, I think the changeover happened in about May of 74, but I could also be totally wrong on that one

The stock cam has a lift of ~.275 I think-that .460 cam you're thinking of is the same grind I used in my 76, but I also had an E31 head and triple webers, header, etc--that tall cam may not work well if you still have the EFI setup on it-it will make the engine more aggressive, and you will probably end up with your idle set around 1200 RPM just so it'll stay running. IMHO, unless you are going to also make changes to the induction and exhaust, I would stay with a much milder cam; if you decide to go with the taller cam, do a search for a place called Delta Camshafts in Tacoma, WA-that's where I got my cam-it was around $40 for a reground-never had a problem with it in 5 years Jim

MM--I can't answer all the questions-but I can give ya my .02--I just bought a Hobart Handler 135 wirefeed Mig-it works with both flux-core (no gas) or Argon sheilded wire, and can weld up to 3/16" metals. If you shop around a little, you can find this welder for about $325. A gas rig will give you much cleaner welds, if you can afford it, make sure you get one-a bottle of gas will last a fairly long tim e, depending on how usage-call your local welding supply, and they can let you know how much a bottle is (rental or buy, plus cost of gas) TIG is not as widely used because of the skill level needed, as far as I know--yes it is a very precise welder like you said, but without the right training, it does you no good-wheras a MIG is a little more forgiving (I learned how to MIG in a couple days of practicing with chunks of scrap) All the associated stuff (mask, gloves, etc) you can pick up at home depot-decent gloves to protect your hands-a mask/goggles can get expensive if you get the auto-darkening kind ($100+) The Hobart welder comes with a regulator, and hose. I don't use a respirator often-I usually make sure I'm welding in a well vented area-unless you're working with galvanized metal (the gases given off are very nasty crap) Hope all this rambling helps Jim [ June 24, 2001: Message edited by: jimzdat ]

Jamie-I know that my 76 2+2 has(had) a R200 in it-3.54 ratio-I'm not sure if they cahnged that for the ZX. As far as the carbs go; yes the stock 71 had the SU "style" carbs (made by Hitachi if I recall)-and there were a few differences even then-3 or 4 screw dashpots, adjustment knob differences, etc. I just recently bought a 260 that had earlier carbs on an L28, and they had a serious vac leak due to worn throttle shafts-If you want to increase the drivability level, and don't mind dropping a few bucks-look into having Scott Bruning (http://www.ztherapy.com) do a "rebush" on them-at $175, it's cheaper than the full service, and it fixes the biggest problem with them-I had it done to mine, and it made a world of difference-I can actually get the thing to idle now Drax, he might be lucky enough to get the E31, but I wouldnt bet on it-they only had something like a 9 month production run-most of the ones I've seen were on 70 models-but if it is-it is the one you want to use

I think you just might be right Drax-I took my E31 in a few years ago to have 280Z valves put in it, and they said that the head already had hardened seats in it, and they were just able to cut them oversize for the new valves-ran that head until I took apart my car with never a single problem. (And that was with a .460" lift cam in it to boot)

quote But you better be quick about it-'cause some of these parts are going in my 260 (Thanks again, Rob)