labrat

For the ghetto version, on my 81ZX, i got a brake cable from the local mountain bike store, removed all the original throttle linkages to the pedal, and ran this cable to the carb, securing it with a steel swedge (crimp on connector). I have to replace the inner cable whenever i remove the carb, but the whole setup including the zip ties i secure it with cost only 6 bux... but i also have like 7 inches of throttle pedal travel. ;>

My 81ZX NA Coupe definitely has a 3.90 rear. I top out about 65 with a TH350.... I definitely need some overdrive action...... But i'm quick off the line! Bill

Thank you all for helping me out, i definitely need someone who isn't staring at the beast with a knotted forehead to chime in with an opinion every now and then. I just get too frustrated to think sometimes, and if it isn't one thing, it's something else. I just got everything crossed off my list of things to do to get the swap finished, and since i drove it, the list is now twice as long! I'm kinda kickin myself in the behind for taking the cheap way out and just using the entire drivetrain from an old used truck. Now I have to redo everything, only with less ground clearance now. Oh well. Thanks a bunch fellas! Bill

No need to apologize, Kevin. You're just callin it as you see it. But you definitely hit the nail on the head. I was two years into my swap before i ever got my motor pulled!

I know you guys are probably tired of hearing about me and my problems, but here goes anyway... My 280ZX with a 350/TH350 is overheating badly on the highway. It does fine up till about 40 MPH, then the temperature slowly starts climbing. I'm running an aluminum radiator out of an 85 regal w/305, and a taurus fan (just the single speed, though). I also don't have a thermostat in right now, because the temperature sending unit for my cheap mechanical guage is too long to fit in the water neck with a thermostat, and i can't get the stinkin pipe plugs out to put it in one of the heads. My question is: would a lack of thermostat to slow the water down through the radiator cause this? I am turning about 3500+ rpms on the highway, so this is my first thought. Would timing (maybe the mechanical advance not working...) cause this? I have to have this car as a daily driver soon, and I need to get all these little issues worked out QUICKLY. Thanks, as always, for all the input, and all the input on my other problems... Bill

Resistance also affects the recharge time of a capacitor or inductor. Increased resistance in the circuit means more time to recharge, and in a coil this means it takes longer to recharge than you have till the next cylinder fires, resulting in poor spark. Single coil systems have to have big coils to dissipate the heat that very low resistance circuits generate (because of high amperage) Coilpacks can be smaller because they only fire 1/3 of the RPM which means they can recharge slower and use a little more resistance, so less current overall is drawn, and less heat needs to be dissipated. Clear as mud?

Go to auozone and get a fuel tank repair kit. It is essentially a 2 part epoxy putty that you mix and apply, and it hardens like a rock. I've used it more than onece, and it works great.

Okay, i think i know what the tranny fluid problem is. I ran about 3 inches of the steel line out of the tranny then went to rubber hose, and i think the pressure was too much for my hose clamps and spewing onto the tranny tunnel, then dripping onto the ground from there. The problem i was having with it is that it will only leak when you are driving it, i couldn't get it to do it in the driveway. Anyway, thanks, and i'll try to get the starter figured out tomorrow

Got everything in and bolted up, engine runs great, but i still have 2 problems between me and the open road. First problem is my transmission. It's spewing fluid all over the place! It's fine when i first start it up, no leaks. Putt around the block, everythings ok. Get on it once pretty good, and it starts to flow. I have 3 trails about 4" wide all around the block leading to my driveway. I've replaced both of the cooler lines and removed and checked the dipstick o-ring (leak appears to be coming from this area) and retightened the kick down cable on my TH350. No dice. Is there anything else around here that can leak? I don't think the case is cracked, the transmission was fine before i pulled it from the donor truck. Am i missing anything here? The other problem is my starter. I have a new starter and new flywheel, but even after the starter is shimmed properly, it seems like my motor is kicking back and now the starter is grinding badly. Everything is tight, and i can't get this grind to go away. It also seems like the starter teeth are only engaging the flywheel halfway. At least the shiny part is only halfway across the flywheel. Anyone have any info on these problems? As always, any assistance is greatly appreciated! Bill (Almost there!)

I have an 81ZX I just did a 350 swap on, and i had to hook the ignition wire thru a relay to get it to work. Seems that wire just doesn't carry enough current to throw the larger solenoid on the chevy starter. Hope this helps... Bill

Put in new distributor today, adjusted timing by eyeball, and it fired first time! IT'S ALIVE! Bwa ha ha ha... This is a great feeling, i fired it up with open manifolds and had the neighbors running to see what was exploding! (I live in a duplex...) But it runs! I will probably go with an aftermarket electronic ignition later, but i will never go back to HEI. I spent over 125 bucks replacing everything electronic in that distributor, when for 65 bucks I got a whole new points setup including plug wires and coil. Now I just have to locate a ballast resistor so I don't burn up the coil... Thanks for all the help here guys, I'm a transmission crossmember away from tearing up the streets!

okay, i bit the bullet, and went out and bought a points style distributor, cap, rotor, and coil. Upon reading, this coil requires an external ballast resistor. Any idea of the value of this resistor, or where i might find one? I have got to get this thing running soon! Bill

I posted this in troubleshooting, but more people come here so maybe i'll get a quicker answer. Here's the deal. I've finished my conversion, small block all in place, try to start the motor, and no spark. All of this ran fine when in the 72 chevy truck I pulled it from. After much troubleshooting, find out that the voltage to the HEI dist. is dropping to about 9 volts when I crank the motor. I'm pulling voltage directly off the battery for this (thru a relay) but it's still not enough. I have a 625 CA battery and even jumper cables to my girlfriend's car is not enough, the voltage still drops. Do i just need a bigger battery, or is something else going on here? Voltage is also dropping at the battery terminals themselves. I am running a remote battery in the trunk, is 1 guage wire big enough for this? I am at a loss and getting really frustrated here! IS 9~10 volts enough to fire an HEI ignition? Do I just need to go to points and forget HEI? I've replaced everything electrical in the dizzy, and i don't know where to turn right now. Thanks for any and all assistance! Bill

Ok, here's the deal. I've finished my conversion, small block all in place, try to start the motor, and no spark. All of this ran fine when in the 72 truck I pulled it from. After much troubleshooting, find out that the voltage to the HEI dist. is dropping to about 8 volts when I crank the motor. I'm pulling voltage directly off the battery for this (thru a relay) but it's still not enough. I have a 625 CA battery and even jumper cables to my girlfriend's car is not enough, the voltage still drops. Do i just need a bigger battery, or is something else going on here? Voltage is also dropping at the battery terminals themselves. I am running a remote battery in the trunk, is 1 guage wire big enough for this? I am at a loss and getting really frustrated here! Thanks for any and all assistance! Bill

A buddy of mine just bought a 72 240 with a 350/TH350 in sweeet shape for 2500 bux. Problem is, it's been sitting in a field (covered) for about 8 years and the coilover springs have sagged so badly the coils are stacked up on one side. Where would be the best place to buy only the springs in a coilover setup? (Bastard got the ford 9" and 4 link and all for cheep!) Thanks guys... Bill

I'm really needing some help here, guys. I need at least some starting dimensions to have a tranny crossmember fabbed at the machine shop. BTW, i'm running a TH350 tranny. any help in this area would be GREATLY appreciated! Thanks in advance... Bill

Good luck on the headers, you'll need it, depending on your steering configuration. if you have power steering that isn't rack n pinion, they'll definitely be a very tight fit. I will post pics of the motor mounts that I have in there right now, if you want, but I'll have to take them tomorrow. Bill

Just hook the sender wire to the tach terminal on the HEI dizzy, and hook up +12v to the bat terminal that is switched on by the ignition. power and ground to the tach, and it should all work fine. Bill

I would appreciate the measurements if it's not too much trouble, as compared to the car. I am concerned about the differences in the fraimrails under the car, the jtr crossmember looks like it would bolt to the edge of them on a ZX. thanks! Bill

I have a quick question about the tranny crossmember sold by JTR. Will it fit on an 81ZX or is it just for the Z people like everything else? I am having no luck with the crossmember off the donor car i was going to use, and it looks like i may have to go this route. Any ideas from the ZX people? I know we're in the minority here, but i really like this car and would like to get it running. This is the only thing i really have left except a few ignition timing issues... Bill

well, i jumpstarted it off of my girlie's mazda, and it fired fine. I guess the battery was dropping the voltage. Thanks for all the help, guys! Bill

I have an 81 280ZX and just getting the motor to fit was pretty easy. Just keep adding spacers between the motor mounts and block till it clears the crossmember and any other obstacles (power steering box...), and bolt them to the stock locations. There is no JTR or Scarab in the ZX, this puts the dizzy right against the firewall, with maybe 1/2 in. to spare. I used 3" on the drivers side and 2" on the passenger side and it fits great with a low profile air cleaner. I would recommend a factory shop manual for the wiring, though, cuz it's giving me fits at the moment. The JTR manual has been helpful, but you cannot follow it step by step, the cars are a little different. Just do things one step at a time, overcoming the hurdles as you go, and you shouldn't have too many problems. Just be sure and double any time estimates you may have made for this project... my $.02 Bill

Well, i tried that at first, but since i removed the ECU and the wiring harness that went to it, there is no voltage on that wire. I will check my haynes manual though, and see what's going on. Thaknks! Bill

well, as everyone knows (and I know way too well), the injected 280ZX has way different wiring than the 240's the JTR manual talks about. My question is this, which wire should i take the ignition 12v to the HEI dizzy bat+ terminal? The wire I have it on now is dropping voltage when the motor cranks, and won't make fire. After all the bugs i have worked out so far, this one has me stumped... Thanks fellas! Bill

Could also be the BCDD, i believe on that model it was used to decrease emissions during shifts, etc. I eventually just filled mine with body putty and drilled the correct diameter hole to get the correct adjustment with the idle screw. Mine leaked all the time, though. The BCDD is connected to the speedo, and any time your over 10 mph and let off the gas suddenly, it allows air to leak around the throttle blades to burn the fuel that is already in the system. worth checking out anyway... Bill