labrat

The problem with stock Z's is that the air kinda "piles" up under the body while smoothly going over the top, creating a high pressure area underneath and eventually lifting the front off the ground if you have the nads to keep pushing it. The belly pan helps the air smoothly exit the rear of the car and keeps the pressure from building up. There is still a pressure differential between the top and bottom of the car, it just requires much higher speeds to achieve lift. (or lift-off, if you prefer). I still think the idea that the high-end ferraris use is the best. They use a full front-to-back belly pan with an hourglass shaped depression that tightens near the center, creating a venturi effect under the car, effectively "sucking" it down to the road. Very slick engineering. Bill

I have the 2BBL 670 CFM holley pro-jection TBI kit on my 350 in my 280ZX, and WOW is it smooth. I know it's analog and all, but it works great when you get it tuned in properly. Step on the gas and snap you're head back. None of the hesitation you would get from a carb, no secondary opening sound, just mad power, right now. I likey . One thing I do not like about it is re-tuning from day to day as the weather changes. With no closed loop, it starts running rich on really hot days (in Texas, I mean REALLY hot) and when it cools off or rains it leans out again. The megasquirt is in the garage just waiting on a harness, so this sounds like the trick to get that up and running. That's all I need now, so I can't wait. Just got the O2 bungs installed, just wish megasquirt would work with both sensors at the same time, not just 1 or the other. I will have to wire them up on some kind of switch or something. Anyway, wheelman, I think that would be a great idea, as that's what I'm doing. Need to get the 4BBL throttle body, though, as it dives really hard around 5k rpm (the 2 bbl version that I have only supports 300HP). my $0.02 Bill

Well, my Z has been sitting for a couple of years with only 1/2 tank of gas, so I got some rust in the tank. My fuel filter is clogging up after about 1/2 tank and causing the fuel pressure to drop, and causing the motor to run lean (TBI). My question is this: What is the best way to loosen rust that is in the tank after I drop it? I was planning on buying a pound or so of BB's and pouring them into the tank, then shaking it till my arms fell off. Then give it to my friend to shake till his fall off. Then rinse and repeat. That's worked for me in the past with motorcycle gas tanks. I really want to stay away from the gas tank coatings, have heard bad things about them from other members. Mostly flaking after a while and clogging intake tubes. I know I have to drop the tank to clean the sock on the intake tube, and rinse out the rust that is in it now. it will also give me a chance to relocate my fuel pump, as the rubber boot on my half shaft is rubbing the fuel line out of the pump. As always, all suggestions are greatly appreciated! Bill

If those 280 headlight buckets are in good shape, I'm sure I can find something you need in trade... Bill P.S., still haven't gotten my garage cleaned out, but let me know if you need anything specific

I usually prowl around the upper end of 183 near anderson mill. i live off anderson mill and don't wanna go too far yet. Wanna make sure it's gonna be reliable. Speaking of which, i burnt out a fusible link on my latest trip, about 15 miles roundtrip. It happened to finally give it up just as i pulled into the driveway, so I made it home ok. Anyone have a good source for these around town? The chain parts stores (autozone, oreilly, etc)? Anyway, it needs a little work still yet, but the bugs are slowly but surely coming out. Bill

I used a summit aluminum radiator (19X26) in my 280ZX/350sbc swap with a summit electric fan. Cheaper than griffin and blackmagic, but works great. The only problem with the fan is it doesn't come with a shroud. I'm afraid of losing fingers! Hot texas afternoon, right on t-stat at 180*, even in heavy traffic.

I had an 89 Saab 900 for about a year. awesome car. nicest car i ever owned. heated seats and mirrors, radio controls on the wheel. I liked to freak my friends out by putting the key in the emergency brake and starting the car. couldn't get used to the whole backward engine thing. Front wheel drive with a motor tilted about 40 degrees with transaxle running under the motor. clutch was right behind radiator, alternator and a/c compressor (and serpentine belt) right up against the firewall. Kooky. Bill

...another hybridZ just hit the streets. I'm proudly announcing that my 1981 280ZX finally hit the streets again sunday after a 2.5yr hiatus. New heads (vortec), air gap intake, holley 670cfm TBI kit, crane energizer 272* cam, and t-5 tranny. Got my exhaust put on at the shop on saturday, and took the first shakedown cruise on sunday. Still tuning out the flat spots in the FI, but this thing pulls like a beast! 1st gear- goes by too fast to think. thank goodness for rev limiter 2nd gear- pulls hard. still goes by really fast. tires really break loose about 3500 rpm. 3rd gear- Pulls long, pulls HARD. tires break loose about 4600 rpm. car just squats and hauls. 4th gear- still pulls very strong. No more tire smoke. estimate around 110 mph at redline (5500 rpm). 5th gear- chickened out. Damn this thing's fast. Normal, around town driving I shift about 1500 rpm. Any higher than that and it starts to sound obnoxiously loud. That's what I get with a 3" single in n out 50 series flowmaster. Have 2" pipe off the manifolds, and they come together behind the tranny into a 3" Y-pipe. I also tend to pull out at stop signs and lights in second gear. 3.90:1 r200 makes for a very low first gear. It is nice for traffic, though, cause you can idle along real slow. The only problem I have is starting it hot with the new fuel injection. I have to crank it a few times then fully depress the accellerator to activate "flood clear" mode on the FI to start it. That seems to do it, though. I am using a holley analog ECU right now. You adjust it with knobs sticking out the side. I have a megasquirt fully assembled, when I switch over it should be able to care of this. I just gotta build the harness for it. anyway, just letting you guys in on another success story! Bill

How big a muffler will fit in the stock muffler location on a 81ZX? Anyone know? I'm trying to find out if a 50 series 3" in/out flowmaster will fit there. I think the case is 17" long and the whole thing is 23" with 3" of pipe in and out. Any input is appreciated! Bill

The 12 volts instead of 14 is more likely a symptom of the reduced RPM. The alternator can't hold the voltage up turning that slowly. They (at least MINE) have to turn around 800rpm before putting out full voltage. My voltmeter swings between 12 and 14 volts at idle with my brand new summit 100AMP chrome 1 wire alternator. I also have a huge current drain on mine just for engine systems. Electric fan, petronix electronic ignition, MSD 6-AL, and electric fuel pump. All together, about 50 amps or more. Maybe you have something like this? Bill

Something has to be misadjusted. The power of a 305 should definitely not cause a stock clutch to slip that easily. Are you sure the rod in the MC is adjusted properly and that the clutch is fully engaging?

Definitely check with a timing light. If you just time it by ear at idle and no load, it will be WAY too advanced and detonate in the higher RPMs. I've seen motors that like as much as 30* initial to idle nice and smooth, but at 4000 RPM with vacuum and mechanical added in you will be around 50* or even 60* advance. That would be bad. Bill

Thank you! I already ordered a set of the stockers, but I was just wanting to make sure I wouldn't have the coil bind problems again. The stock springs are 60 bux a set VS. 250 for the beehive ones... As long as they will work, it'll be fine. I doubt that cam would even pull to 6500 rpm, so I should be fine. Rev limiter is set at 5800 anyway. Thx for the input! Bill

I checked the site, and it says that they are specifically for the LS1 head. Would these work for my vortecs? They are a little outta my price range for valve springs, anyway. That's the whole reason I went with a milder cam, so that valve train issues wouldn't get too expensive.... Thanks for the input! Bill

Okay, I found out why I was bending pushrods left and right... Incorrect valve springs. I have '98 vortec heads on my 350, and using standard Z28 valve springs without cutting the spring pockets on the heads, resulting in some nasty coil bind. My question is, can I just use the stock springs for the 98 chevy truck? Or will I have to pull the heads and have the spring pockets machined for standard 350 sbc valve springs? I know my cam lift is fairly tame, I was trying to stay under the max lift for the heads (chevy recommends staying under .475"). Will this give me any problems with the stock vortec valve springs? Cam specs: Crane Energizer hydraulic flat tappet 272* advertised duration and .454 lift. 1.5 ratio stock stamped self aligning rockers. Stock length pushrods. Any and all suggestions are, as always, greatly appreciated! Bill

Naw, it's hydraulic flat tappet. Just a crane energizer 272* with about .454 lift. I think I may have tightened the rocker too tight. I'm gonna give it a compression test to make sure I didn't bend any valves and then replace the pushrods and try again. Gonna soak em overnight in oil to make sure this time. Bill

Hey guys, I just got my 350 started and running, but I keep bending pushrods on two cylinders in particular. Am I just tightening the rockers too tight, or do I have a serious valve clearance problem with my vortec heads? I'm guessing that the valve is hitting the piston to bend the pushrods so badly, I'm just not sure why. Any assistance would be appreciated! Bill

I grew up in West Virginia, just strap the rifle over your shoulder and walk up the hill behind the house. With rimfires it was okay, had to drive 4 or 5 miles for a good spot to shoot the big stuff. Got a .308 win 700 rem. that will put 3 rnds in the bottom of a coke can at 300 yds... Around there, groundhogs are considered a pest and it's open season on them year round (with a hunting license, of course). Anyway, nothing will turn them into a fine pink mist better than that rifle, and too far away to see with the naked eye.

Thanks guys, appreciate the input. On further examination, the car has 0 oil pressure at hot idle, is overheating on the highway, and has evidence of exhaust in the water... that thick red scum of rust and soot that floats on top of the coolant. I can get a stock shortblock for only 450 (plus cam), whaddaya think? Bill Thx!@!

Speedsk8r, Yup, my motor mounts look almost exactly like that, slightly misaligned and all! You got yours maybe 1/2" lower (maybe due to moroso oil pan). That's a trick trans mount, I wish I had thought of that before I cut the stock one out. Leaves lots of room for exhaust routing. Oh well... Bill

With a ZX body and SBC motor, you can use the '72 chevy truck motor mounts listed in the JTR manual, they will bolt to the frame horns on the crossmember perfectly. You just need to come up with a series of spacers to lift the oil pan above the crossmember. I have a '72 350 in an 81 ZX, and I used about 3 1/4" to 3 1/2" on each side. The bolt holes all lined up perfectly and the angles are precise. If you want, you can slot the boltholes in the crossmember fore-and-aft, and this will allow 1/2" of adjustment or so to line up trans mount and u-joint angle. To ensure the engine is level in the car, check clearance between oil pan and crossmember, and make sure it's even all the way across (mine is one finger's thickness all the way across). Just buy the motor mounts to get the bolt hole spacing, make a template, start with 1" thick blocks of aluminum, and drill the bolt holes. 3 plates on each side, then fine tune with washers. Worked for me, anyway, and no expensive machine work needed. Total investment, about $50.00 including 3/8" drillbit and 6 grade 8 bolts. Another advantage of this is the increased leverage of the motor mounts on the engine. With cheap $6.00 autozone mounts, my motor torques maybe 1/2" under full power... my $.02 Bill P.S. with a flat bar stock trans crossmember and 2" of spacers between the trans mount and crossmember, my transmission output shaft is laser-beam straight with my diff input shaft. Laser level locked into front yoke cast a dot directly on pinion flange, even while rotated 180*. U-Joints are nice and straight, and I get NO driverline vibrations. Diff mount is competely stock.

You may want to make sure that it is a water passage and not exhaust passage through the manifold. To be emissions compliant and re-vaporize the fuel that falls out of the mix, in the 70's they started routing exhaust through the intake right under the carb to warm it up. This improves HC emissions, but robs power. There should be instructions with the gasket set as to which years need which restrictions (one, none, or both), but I usually block both of them if possible. What's the use of a cold-air intake if the intake charge is gonna be heated in the manifold by exhaust anyway? Go one better and get an Air-Gap manifold, that way the runners are not even heated by engine oil splash... my $.02 Bill

Come on guys, throw me a bone here! Is this cause by oil starvation, over revving, or what? Has anyone else had roller lifters fail this way? I know the tick has been going on for a while (as per previous owner), will the needle bearing have torn up the rods and mains? I've never worked with a roller motor before (and I had to look up the pedestal mounted rockers... wierd) so I really don't know what these could be a symptom of. I'm guessing the rollers ate up the cam lobes too, but this is just my flat tappet experience talking. Anyone have any input? Thanks! Bill

I've been driving my 99 miata for over 18 months in austin TX with no front plate. After many. many speeding tickets, not one cop has said anything about my lack of plate...

Obviously, you don't know me and cars very well. I don't get lucky. With my luck, it ruined everything including the brakes and suspension...