thehelix112
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Everything posted by thehelix112
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Will do. As soon as I've got the damn things on the car. Progress on getting them on: http://forums.hybridz.org/showpost.php?p=953034&postcount=2
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Legend. Much obliged. Dave
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Oh while I'm more or less at it, I've heard a rumour that P30-0032 (and other) Bilsteins have internal bump stops, so you don't need to run one. Anyone know if thats true? Dave
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From the link that Jon (Mortensen) posted the other day (http://farnorthracing.com/autocross_secrets6.html) I found this little gem: Which sounds great to me, unfortunately is beyond my level of understanding of damper internals. I have seen however that the P30-0032 Bilsteins are an inverted design, and that it is possible to unscrew the bottom off the shock and pull it apart to.. err.. do stuff. But I'm assuming there is some nitrogen in there, coz that seems common, and I almost even understand its purpose. So my questions are these: 1. Is the Shraeder valve modification simply there to support an external canister? 2. If you pull it apart, and the gas escapes, how do you get it back in? even with an external canister? 3. Assuming you have some way of pulling the damper apart, and putting it back together and having it continue to work, what exactly are you changing when you pull it apart? How do you things? I assume you need an array of parts to tweak settings? 4. Anyone done any of this before? 5. Anyone have a shock dyno handy? Many thanks, Dave
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Myron, you sissy. Oh and that looks freaking awesome. Dave
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From the album: 280Z Coil overs
Using the M14x1.5 tap, tap the hole in the strut-top. -
From the album: 280Z Coil overs
Using a 13mm (or 1/2") drill bit, drill out the D in the strut-top. -
From the album: 280Z Coil overs
Put the strut-top in a vice, and using a stanley knife, trim the downwards-protruding rubber lip off 6mm (1/4"). -
From the album: 280Z Coil overs
Using the round file, file the inside of the carrier down until the damper body can fit through it easily. -
From the album: 280Z Coil overs
Using the round file, file the inside of the carrier down until the damper body can fit through it easily. -
From the album: 280Z Coil overs
Using the grinding disc, carefully grind down the remaining small diameter section until the carrier ends at the end of the conical section. -
From the album: 280Z Coil overs
Using the grinding disc, carefully grind down the remaining small diameter section until the carrier ends at the end of the conical section. -
From the album: 280Z Coil overs
Using the cutting disc, cut off the smaller diameter section (on which the PN is stamped) of the female carrier. Do not overcut into the conical (tapered) section. -
From the album: 280Z Coil overs
Put the cut-off from step 9 into the vice and individually beat each of the three concave shells until they fit nicely against the outside of the tube. -
From the album: 280Z Coil overs
Put the cut-off from step 9 into the vice and individually beat each of the three concave shells until they fit nicely against the outside of the tube. -
From the album: 280Z Coil overs
Cut the cut-off from step 8 into three equal concave shaped sections (roughly every 120 degrees). -
From the album: 280Z Coil overs
Cut the strut tube at the mark scribed in step 7 using the pipe cutter. -
From the album: 280Z Coil overs
Cut the strut tube at the mark scribed in step 7 using the pipe cutter. -
From the album: 280Z Coil overs
Using the cutting disc, cut anywhere between 1/2 and 1" off the end of the strut. This does not have to be particularly neat, a few mm difference is acceptable. You will be using this off-cut later to stop the threaded sleeve sliding down. -
From the album: 280Z Coil overs
Slide the threaded sleeve down until the top of it is 2-1/4" down from the top. Scribe a mark around the entire circumference of the strut tube using the top of the threaded sleeve as a guide. Remove the threaded sleeve. -
From the album: 280Z Coil overs
Slide the threaded sleeve down until the top of it is 2-1/4" down from the top. Scribe a mark around the entire circumference of the strut tube using the top of the threaded sleeve as a guide. Remove the threaded sleeve. -
From the album: 280Z Coil overs
Using a grinding disc, grind down the remaining spring perch and weld until it is flat and the threaded sleeve can easily slide past where the weld was. -
From the album: 280Z Coil overs
Using a grinding disc, grind down the remaining spring perch and weld until it is flat and the threaded sleeve can easily slide past where the weld was. -
From the album: 280Z Coil overs
Using a grinding disc, grind down the remaining spring perch and weld until it is flat and the threaded sleeve can easily slide past where the weld was. -
From the album: 280Z Coil overs
Using a thin cutting disc on an angle grinder, cut the stock lower spring perch off. Do not cut into the strut body, I cut 6mm (1/4") above the weld to get enough distance.