thehelix112

Congrats dude! Can't wait for the vids. Dave

Fair enough, though Redline shockproof superlight is rated at 75W90. http://www.redlineoil.com/products_gearlubricants.asp?productID=42&subCategoryID=16&categoryID=6 The benefit is the reduced friction = more hp. Poomfteenth, but it all adds up? Ignore that, it clearly says not for use with synchro transmissions. Oh well. Dave

Myron, Great to hear about the driveshaft! First drive vids (in the wet) coming up in 10 minutes then? Did you investigate Redline shockproof oil? I had that recommended to me by a racer friend, apparently helpful for reducing friction and both cushioning shock loads if you believe the marketting. Are you using a sprung clutch still? Dave

Good for you dude. Can't wait to see it driving. Dave

http://www.google.com/trends?q=240z%2C+260z%2C+280z&ctab=0&geo=all&date=all&sort=0 Looks about right to me. but the real surprise is when you include 280zx: http://www.google.com/trends?q=240z%2C+260z%2C+280z%2C+280zx&ctab=0&geo=all&date=all&sort=0 I never knew people actually liked them. No(t much) offence intended. Dave

Some info on MR10 Lexan: http://www.modernplastics.com/june05/wdlexan.html Was it very expensive jtl? Also, I don't know that I see why you couldn't just use Contact or some other clear plastic covering? Like an untinted version of window tinting stuff. Dave

Ah. I should read more. Thanks, and my apologies. Dave

0.84 is way low. http://www.sportcompactcarweb.com/features/0203_sccp_ultimate_street_car_challenge/final_results.html RANK CAR LATERAL G POINTS NOTES 1 Datsun 510 1.092 100 Holy sticky tires 2 Ferrari F360 1.082 99 Still, a Datsun beat it Tyres > * I've been in a Datsun 510 (sedan) outfit with Motec's 3-axis accellerometer and Dash setup. Regularly pulling high 0.9s on the road, with ultra high performance street rubber. Dave

As per my build thread here: http://forums.hybridz.org/showpost.php?p=955824&postcount=4 I'm using torrington needle bearings from motion industries that fit the a1 racing coil over tops. PNs, prices etc in the link. Thats for the a1 racing coil over top and I'm using it with the stock strut top though, not TTT: But I found everything I wanted on the motionindustries.com website. The search thing is kinda retarded, but the part numbers for torrington are pretty easy to decipher, e.g. FNT 1528 is a needle bearing 15mm ID 28mm OD, LS1528 is thrust washer 15mm ID 28mm OD. The FNT and LS prefixes appear constant so you can find whatever size you need hopefully? Myron, it looks like you've got the hat sitting down on the tapered part of the piston? I was going to do this, but decided against it as I wasn't confident thats what bilstein had in mind. Maybe we can go over what I did this Saturday when you help me put it all together. Dave

255/50R16 Some ultra high performance street tyres http://www.tirerack.com/tires/Compare1.jsp?width=255/&ratio=50&diameter=16&startIndex=0&search=true&pagelen=20&pagenum=1&pagemark=1&RunFlat=All 265/45R16 Kumho semis: http://www.tirerack.com/tires/Compare1.jsp?width=265/&ratio=45&diameter=16&startIndex=0&search=true&pagelen=20&pagenum=1&pagemark=1&RunFlat=All 275/45R16 Hoosier semis (what JohnC used): http://www.tirerack.com/tires/Compare1.jsp?width=275/&ratio=45&diameter=16&startIndex=0&search=true&pagelen=20&pagenum=1&pagemark=1&RunFlat=All I'd be interested in the sizes available for brands tirerack doesn't carry, Falkens for example. Dave

I just had the T3 in my wife's saab 900 reco'd by blaastperformance.com (direct link: http://www.blaastperformance.com/detail.php?ref=73) Very cheap, only use genuine garret parts. My turbine housing was cracked and a rebuild, reco turbine housing, and shipping back totalled USD280. No problems with it as yet . Dave

FWIW, my GT3582R with 0.82 housing, stock 7.4:1 CR L28ET sees positive pressure by 3000 in 1st, full boost (20psi) by 4500. Dave

ktm, If it were possible to get a two turbochargers of different size (T3 and T4 in your example) with "everything else considered" being identical, I would agree with you, however, its not. **General generalizations disclaimer goes here** The larger turbo will have a larger compressor wheel which will be able to move the same amount of air with greater efficiency. The larger turbo will have a larger turbine housing and turbine wheel which will reduce the back pressure on the exhaust valve and improve the pumping efficiency of the engine. And, your fueling is not directly tied to manifold pressure and VE. Its tied to the mass of air the engine is capable of ingesting. Higher pressure means more mass, lower temperature (greater compressor efficiency/intercooling) also means more mass. Dave

There are a lot of options for the 3071R. What were you thinking? Also, the compressor on the 3071 has a slightly bigger inducer than the 2871, which gives you a few more lb/min. I think you'll be running out of steam maybe a few hundred rpm later with the 0.63 GT30 versus the GT28. But I'd expect the GT28 to be at full steam not much past ~2000, with the GT30 with a 0.63 maybe a few hundred rpm behind. If it were me I'd be looking at a few things: 1. The GT30 has quite a few more options for turbine housing which can let you tune some of its characteristics. 2. The cam profile you are thinking about or already have, and how you prefer to drive. If you prefer to drive and have a cam that supports it, maybe lean towards the `500rpm higher' option? 3. The GT28 is not much bigger than the stock turbo on a SR20DET. Dave

The longacre website offers some tips on how to go about using their probe pyros http://www.longacreracing.com/articles/art.asp?artid=16 They recommend you stick the probe into the tyre in a few places prior to taking the first reading in order to pre-heat the probe and get more consistent/repeatable readings. Makes sense. Thanks guys, I guess I'll be getting the budget longacre one. Unless someone has one for sale they no longer want? Dave

Tony, I'm only going by what I've read, both here and other places. E.g. http://forums.hybridz.org/showpost.php?p=540669&postcount=9 I think as long as you are consistent and methodical in your measurements, value can be gained irrespective. I.e. measure from the same side to side and the tyres in the same order each and every time. I was more wondering on people's experiences with different versions. E.g. This one: http://www.check-it-electronics.com/chec0316digt.html quotes 15 second response times. Can't find any specs on the Longacre one. Dave

I've just been reading about IR vs probe and everything points to if you're serious, get a probe one. I have an IR one in Aus but I've never used it. You wanna sell your probe-type one? Dave

Guys, Does anyone have a recommendation for a budget (yet still accurate) probe-type tyre pyrometer? Is something like this http://www.soloperformance.com/Longacre-50640-Accutech-Digital-Pyro_p_98-1123.html par for the course? Many thanks, Dave

The more boost, the less the wastegate has to work. You might be in trouble if you say ran a 0.63 housing and wanted to run 5psi. Try to PM HSVSUX on PF/ozdat, hes run both the 1.06/0.82 on his RB30ET with no other mods. He went to the 1.06 as the 0.82 was uncontrollable for him. I got his 0.82 housing on mine. I'd ask whoever you get the housing from what they start with before doing the mods. Dave

Richard, Is the problem that you want to run less boost? Or that you want it to boost sooner? Also, what internally gated 0.82 housing were you planning on putting on it? I'd recommend against non-GT housings, apparently they made quite some improvement in the alloy between these and the old school T4 housings. Hence why you see them mention the high Ni content of the GT3582R housings especially, but apparently the rest of the Garret GT housings are still pretty good. If you put an effectively smaller wastegate on it, you're just limiting its boost control capabilities. So, just run more boost and the gate won't have to pass as much air and its all good. 25psi for you. Dave

Holy ♥♥♥♥♥♥♥ ♥♥♥♥! That sounds bloody fantastic! Definitely revs up very very quickly. And in true track car style, the fuel pump is louder than the car at idle. Can't wait to see it in person. Dave

So I have changed my mind about Step 15, modifying the coil over top. As I plan on eventually upgrading to spherical rod end with camber adjustment for the top I won't be modifying the stock tops. Instead I ordered some Torrington bearings and races so I can remove the stock front bearing, replace it with washers, and hopefully get enough thread through the stock top to hold it all in place properly. At least thats what the mock up showed so I'm hopeful. The parts: From Motion Industries: (https://www.motionindustries.com/motion3/jsp/mi/motion.jsp) - 28mm OD, 15mm ID bearing: 2 x FNT 1528 BRG @ USD3.49 ea - 28mm OD, 15mm ID thrust washer: 2 x LS1528 @ USD7.62 ea This also means I don't need the 1" drill bit I special ordered.. grrr.. but I think this will be the better solution. All thats left I believe is working out how to get a spacer. It needs to be a piece of tube thats 7/8 OD and 9/16 ID, making it 0.150" wall thickness, aka, impossible to find. I will probably end up trying to borrow a mate's lathe and drill out some 7/8 OD bar myself. I will make a bunch of these just in case other people need the spacers too. Oh and I also got some of these to help with coil turning and adjustment: From performanceshock.com: http://performanceshock.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=53_34&products_id=542 - 2.5" ID spring preload bearing kit: 4 x tbrg-2.50-kit @ USD22.45 Total spent on parts so far: USD844.44 Dave

Great work dude!

Hope to be getting EMWHYR0HEN to do the required welding this weekend, but am having second thoughts about reusing the front upper bearing, as it requires drilling out the coil over top to 1" in order to get the top down enough on the shaft to screw it into the stock strut top. But if I get some torrington bearings for the top maybe I can ditch the stock bearing and space the damper shaft out to be snug with the coil over hole. Dave