thehelix112

evildky, I just got a set of JSK rear hats, however they were his last set, and the inner inside hole looks like its been taken to with a dremel to get the chamfer. What is the distance from the outside of the hat, to the rotor mounting surface? Mine is 31.75mm (1 1/4"). This is a lot less than the offset requied for a Dynalite (http://www.wilwood.com/Products/001-Calipers/019-FDL/mouting.gif - upper left) : 43.4mm the Superlite (http://www.wilwood.com/PDF/fl179.pdf) : 54.6mm and what I wish to run, the Outlaw 2800 (http://www.outlawdiscbrakes.com/support/2800draw.gif) : 48.3mm Thanks, Dave

Terry, That makes sense, I think, are you running a non-boosted setup? If not, what booster are you using? Dave

Sorry to dig this up from the grave, I just wanted to thank 74_5.0L_Z for that post. I'm planning out my outlaw upgrade and I definitely don't understand the relationship MC size has with pedal feel and travel. But I think this put me on the right path, going to read some more. Dave

Making the best use of the calipers that you have, ie, balance would seem to be the most important thing I agree. But... I just went through the official porsche maintainence booklet http://www.porsche.com/filestore.aspx/default.pdf?pool=usa&type=download&id=maintenanceandwarranty-maintenancebookletpdf&lang=none&filetype=default looking for any mention of brake calipers. I couldn't find any. Regarding stoptech's website, I found this discouraging to say the least: ... ... and then the joke I'm not a metallurgist, but that argument seems really flawed to me: stiffness, stiffness, stiffness, stiffness, stiffness, strength? Make up your mind. FWIW, this well known orange 240z (http://www.turbomagazine.com/features/tur0801a01_1972_nissan_datsun_240z/index.html) runs porsche calipers front and rear. Are they a member here who could shed some light on their experiences? Dave

I don't know much about caliper design, but I don't see how any two-piece caliper could be all that rigid. Look at the top of the line anything, they're all monobloc. Bang for your bug, I'd suggest some 2nd hand front Porsche >1996 4-pots. Tis what I hope to be doing soon. Dave

Jeez, we have some seriously closed-minded people in this forum. Kids are kids. They are still learning what is right, what is wrong. Who here can say they've never done anything stupid, or dangerous, for a sheer thrill? Not i. Try to remember what it was like being a kid, then think about the state of the country (world), and have some god damn compassion. Dave

Beautiful work Monzter, it appears you are aptly named. I also like your exhaust manifold, though looking at the pic 280ZForce posted of mine makes me shameful of the state of my car. Oh well, nm. Can't wait to hear/see it in person. Dave

Craig, Thanks for the info. Glad to hear they're working. Did you get them revalved to 300/100 also? I am considering getting them revalved to suit 240/200 springs. Is the adjustment linear? Ie, would 220/72 valving suit? Thanks, Dave

I vote for less of the pissing contest. I also vote for continuing the discussion of early race Z aerodynamic modifications. As always, Alan has a significant store of information which is likely interesting to a lot of people. I do not understand the idea of the vertical finds on either side of the hatchs. AFAIK, you WANT as much air on top of the hatch as possible to increase pressure there (reduce lift, reduce drag). FWIW, on a cold morning in my stock 280z you can see exactly where the flow is separating on the rear hatch. The middle 8-10" to be precise. The rest of the water gets blown off, but that centre section remains. Dave

Myron, I think it would gain significantly in strength if you boxed in even one side and just cut a hole for the exhaust where it needed it. Either that or triangulate the innermost corner of the tc box back to the frame rail with some flat. In terms of weight, surely an extra lb is better than the front of your car crumbling in on itself and sending you off into the undergrowth? Also, I was wondering if you'd have time sometime in the coming months to help me out with sectioning my struts, and relocating front suspension pivot points? Dave

I agree. This is a good candidate for sticky. Dave

Cheers. Dave

This is the link mentioned previously with a nice summary by katman. http://www.improvedtouring.com/forums/showthread.php?t=16613 Jon, Sorry to reiterate, but was the exact PN F4-P30-0032-MO or something different? Dave

Jon, Is this the F4-P30-0032-MO the exact PN you are talking about? http://www.bilstein.com/mistore/productdisplayf.php?sku=109472&hdwt=31101&loc=101&dealer=no&company_id=100484 Also, what do the valving numbers mean? I'm assuming the higher the number the stiffer the valving, so which is which? rebound/compression or vice versa? Also, any recommendations on where to purchase those ones would be great. Thanks, Dave

Damn Myron that looks awesome! My only comment would be a little heat shielding around it might be the go. Gunna get hot on the track and its not far from the tyre, esp if you're still running bushes in the castor rod/chassis mount (which flex). Can't wait to see her in real life again soon. Dave

I think you'll find that injectors are negative-switched. Ie, the positive lines are always fed, and the ECU switches the negative side. Dunno if that helps. Dave

Hey guys, Just picked up my first LHD car. Its a 1978 280Z, with the fugly bumpers, 14" centrelines, and a rear window louvre, which will be replaced with nothing, 16x8 sportmax 002s, and nothing respectively. Good to be driving a zed again, though I must say, its slow as ♥♥♥♥. Plans are to keep it a daily, with a few handling/braking modifications as time/money permits. So some decent springs, shocks, general maintenance stuff, and maybe some decent rotors/calipers down the track. Dave

Oz's rules vary by state I believe. The rules have changed a lot in the last few years but I have seen a few old american cars LHD floating about the place. I'd check out what the state you're looking to move to's Road Transport Authority website has to say. Good luck, Dave

3" dumps behind diff. 2.5" w/g dumps before gearbox. Neither really recommended, but it sounds like this: http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-3267393565625239905 Dave

Holy ♥♥♥♥. Dave

Why do you want to go to a metal head gasket? If everything is built (decked, torqued, retorqued etc) correctly the only time a good quality OEM gasket will let go is if you have detonation. In which case, its either the gasket, or eventually the piston. I don't see the advantage? Dave

Forgive me, I don't know the setup of your car. Are you going to use these rear tyres in conjunction with what size fronts? Are you increasing width primarily to improve traction? If not, do you have a suspension system that won't fold in half with the lateral force 14" slicks can provide? Dave

Been working on this for a while now and have got it to a point where I have A, realised that they're not completely to scale, the car is actually more narrow at the doors in the top view, and B, that I don't care enough to redo them from scale dimensions. Comments are welcome. I will add some more notes later on, but for now let me just give you a legend: Black is the external chassis. Cyan is vents in the external surface. Yellow is diffusers Red is the internal chassis (rails etc). Dark blue is cooler ducting. Purple is the wing and splitter. Shitgreen is any suspension. Not as pretty as some of the other posts sorry. Dave

I have absolutely no evidence of this, but have heard that top notch RB26 guys are getting close to 390CFM out of their heads. Not net-boy-racer bullshit to the best of my knowledge.

Wow. Thats a pretty impressive improvement. Great job. Dave