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thehelix112

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Everything posted by thehelix112

  1. From the album: 280Z Aesthetics

    Day I bought it, sans rear window louvre.
  2. Step 7. Test install the LCA and sway bar to ensure that both plates are roughly in the same plane (beat with a BFH until they are), and are not too far apart. Though the rod ends do allow for misalignment, there is a limit, especially with such small rod ends. Putting the sway bar and LCA approximately as they will sit after installation, mark a line vertically approximately in the centre of the LCA, at the same longitudinal position as the original sway bar mount. Step 8. Remove the LCAs and work out how much flat you want. Trim anything you don't. On an S30 the sway bar has quite a bit of free movement without interference (or so I think at this stage?), so as long as you trim both LCAs the same, you should be ok. Make sure you leave enough flat to drill a hole for the rod end to be bolted. Step 9. Drill a hole in the LCAs' flat appropriately on the marked line, to replicate the factory mounting position. You can then drill as many holes on either side as you can fit. I tried to allow for both more and less roll stiffness, so I have holes in either side. Step 10. Cleanup the flat, and hit it with the spray can. Step 11. Remove the sway bar and repeat steps 8-10 for the sway bar flats. Step 12. Install the sway bar and LCA. Bolt one rod end into the holes replicating the stock sway bar position to start with. If nothing else, this will verify that the tiny rod ends are strong enough to not get ripped apart. When bolting into the other side, adjust the rod end as necessary to ensure the sway bar is not preloaded. I.e. don't heave down on the sway bar to get the bolt holes to line up. Dave
  3. From the album: 280Z Adjustable sway bars

    Drill a hole in the LCA flat
  4. Compare tests #27 and #28 here http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=121877 The changes were untaping the wheel well vents, and covering a lot of frontal area (yes, two variables unfortunately so granted the wheel well vents cannot be solely responsible), but drag went from 95hp to 88hp @ 120mph. Seems worth exploring to me. Dave
  5. LVSALT, Have you perused the results of the wind tunnel tests? The main thing that stood out to me was that the primary sources of both drag and front end lift are the front wheel wells, and the engine bay (I believe in that order but CBF double checking). It would be interesting to vent both these sections if allowed by the rules next time out and see what happens? Coz you know, I'm sure you have nothing else to do. (j/k). Dave
  6. Also look for spinwerkes, they make aluminium versions of diamond racing: series 82 they're called. They're relatively cheap in smaller sizes, 16x10 for example, but dunno about how they compare in larger ones. Good luck, Dave
  7. That one was great. Love the double use of `SS'. Dave
  8. I think perhaps another comparison thats worthwhile is between tests #17 and #21. #17 is with upper half of air damn blocked off on a car with MSA III and no ZGs, test #21 is with MSA III upper half blocked off, APR wing on low setting, ZGs. Test #17 drag: 89.7hp Test #21 drag: 88.2hp Adding a wing does not necessarily mean more drag. Dave
  9. Sounds great! Love the push start too. Dave
  10. Heres mine for what its worth. I'd also suggest you search as this has been covered a bunch of times.
  11. thehelix112

    rearsitting

    From the album: Turbo 240Z

  12. thehelix112

    lastturn

    From the album: Turbo 240Z

  13. thehelix112

    in-chicane

    From the album: Turbo 240Z

  14. thehelix112

    heathcote5

    From the album: Turbo 240Z

  15. thehelix112

    heathcote3

    From the album: Turbo 240Z

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