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jnjdragracing

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Posts posted by jnjdragracing

  1. Now I never said DNI was pointless, if we can not get the Z to run down the track then there is no need in going. I will be hounding Jerry about it and at least we can attend to root everybody else on. Who knows I might be able to down size some power. I need to talk to enderle Monday and see how far I can retard the timing before it wants to sneeze, and also maybe under drive the pulleys.

     

    We will have to see......

     

    John

     

    Well you got the burnout part down!!!! Nice wheelies too, that's got to get Jerry's heart racing! Like Warren said do you think wheelie bars would help? Then again it got way loose on the first run without pulling air. We are all going to miss you if you decide DNI is pointless.
  2. Here you go GrumpyVette...

     

    280Z chassis / suspension specs:

     

    Front motor mount plates (tied to frame)

    Rear motor mount plate (tied to frame)

    Bad Dog Frame rails

    Modern Motor Sports stub axel conversion companion flanges to accept CV axles. Enables a bolt on swap of *300ZXT CV (4 bolt model) Half shafts into 1970-1978 Z cars with R200 differentials

    Stock R200 rear end Welded posi with 3.55 gear ratio

    Turbo CV axels

    Drive shaft (custom built) using U-Joint to pinion flange part number ( naacco / car quest # 2-2-899-1)

    Drive shaft safety loop (NHRA specs)

    10 point roll cage NHRA certified to 8.5 ET ¼ mile

     

    Transmission:

     

    2 Speed Power Glide w/1.82 first

    Transmission shield (NHRA specs)

    Flex plate shield (NHRA specs)

     

     

    Engine specs:

     

    Stock production 4 bolt main 350 block (high nickel content)

    Bored 30 over

    Callies Stealth crank std /std (crank and rods / pistons balanced

    Iron eagle rods 5.7 length H-beam

    TRW forged blower pistons reversed dome

    Used Arp main stud kit with mildon windage tray

    Arp head stud kit

    Mellings high volume oil pump

    Block o-ringed

    Head cut with receiver grooves for block

    .30 thousands copper SCE head gaskets

    Dart 230 Iron heads cut 49cc 2.08 intake 1.60 exhaust valves

    Comp cams vasco jet springs pre-loaded for cam specs

    Cloyes true roller double cnc timing chain set

    Stock 5 qt. oil pan

    Crank hub

    BDS grind number 4500-r roller cam 114 center line / specs are: valve lift intake and exhaust 630 w/1.5 rockers (we use 1.6 rockers) duration intake 318 / exhaust 322, at .50 it is 282 / 290.

    Comp Cams severe duty roller lifters

    Comp Cams magnum 1.6 roller rockers

    Comp Cams 7/16 stud girdle

    Bds blower intake

    Bds 6-71 blower (reworked by little filed and clearenced / Teflon / nitril stripped for alky)

    Enderle bird catcher hat with Enderle injectors .45, alky barrel valve .80 main bypass pill

    Enderle 80-A1 cam driven fuel pump 7.1gpm

    Blower is set up for 2 % over driven

    MSD pro billet dist.

    MSD 6AL ignition w/ MSD boost controller (not using at the moment)

    MSD 8mm plug wires

    Headers are hooker headers competition for Datsun 240 -280Z

    Spark plugs are autolite AR133

    Starter: using stock OEM mini starter for a corvette

     

    You can go to www.jnjdragracing.com and follow our progress with setup and testing to find more specs.

     

    PS: if more info is needed please let us know.

     

    John and Jerry

     

    could you post a component parts list(engine and drivetrain specs) Im sure many guys would be very interested
  3. Well we went to the drag strip tonight and tried to make 4 passes. Did not tear up anything which is a good thing and nobody got hurt which means a good trip. We tried to make some complete passes but we had just too much power. I have posted the video footage of our passes at www.jnjdragracing.com please go to Zcar, then movies, then to the bottom ( Testing our new project ). You can read what we tried to do to cut back on the awsome power. but it did not help. Also here is a direct link. Please be sure to right click and save as, it is a 51meg video file.

     

    http://www.jnjdragracing.com/videos/New%20project%201-4%20test%20runs.mpg

     

    Until next time.....:burnout:

     

    John and Jerry

  4. I am looking for a electric 12Volt vacuum pump to use on our brake booster,since we changed to alky. I know I should just install a wildwood master cly but a friend told me about using the electric pump. He told me to check a 93 Camaro or ford truck with a 7.3 diesel. But I have not had any luck finding one. Do you have any Ideas.Thanks for any help,Jerry

  5. I'm not sure then. The fuel enters the needle seat and then into the bowl, as the fuel level rises it raises the float which will close the needleing seat which stops the flow of fuel. So if the fuel bowl is dry then no fuel is entering in.

     

    The power valve has a diaphram also. It could be torn allowing fuel to go from the bowl into the metering block into the venturies and flooding.

     

    You need to use a vacuum pump to check a power valve. They also have diffirent sizes so make sure you find the number on yours and get one with the same. Example if you have a 4.5 power valve then you need to be pulling at least 6 inches of vacuum from the engine. If you drop below 4.5 then it will open and will be to rich.

     

     

    I hope this helps, and I know what you are talking about concerning Barry Grant. They also told me my blower carbs would not work with the camshaft I was running and boy were they wrong..... I do not have that worry anymore.

     

    John

  6. The needle seat probably has trash in it. Need to pull out and blow air in it and also use some carb cleaner on it. It it is blocked and can not seat then fuel will come out at the top of the carb. You can also check your power valve to make sure they are not busted, they are inexspensive to replace. Probably a good time to rebuild the carb. Holley parts will work in the barry grant.

     

    John

     

    I have a Demon carb, and this morning fuel was DUMPING out both my secondary boosters. It was not my float because the bowl was completely dry. (Dumping out so fast that the bowl couldn't even fill up)

     

    Does anyone know what this could be? My first guess was that jets unscrewed and fell out, unlikely but ok. I took the whole thing apart and I cannot find one thing wrong with it, except one stud was broken off. I doubt that it had anything to do with it as the seals were super tight.

  7. Yes it can, if the vacuum hose turned black which was clear before and it is hard then you are getting gasoline in the line which is probably causing your vacuum advance to go bad. I would pull both float bowls of and the needle seats out and clean good. Sounds like some trash in the carb getting caught in the needle seat keeping it open and flooding out your carb.

     

    John

  8. I would look for numbers on the block. Also lift a valve cover and see what casting number is stamped on the head. Once you have aquired the numbers then do a google search like SBC Casting numbers, etc.

     

    John

     

    I recently acquired a very clean looking TPI motor. I am told the motor is "built and built right" with few miles on it. It does look very clean. The question is, where should I start with this mystery motor? How do I determine exactly what I am working with? How should I proceed? TPI is certainly not my first choice of induction set ups but the motor was near free and I am on a budget.
  9. Hello Dale,

     

    Will probably be in two weeks. Of course I have to work all next weekend, so can't go then. So it will be the weekend after, Will take it to Midlands drag strip. It is a 1/8 mile track, hooks up descent. It is a small back woods track so Jerry can do some practicing. It is going to be different. Probably will do a roll through burnout this time and take of easy and lay into it gradually to see what happens. It sounds and feels like a lot more power than I was anticipating. I guess we will see.

     

    John

     

    Loud? I'll say its loud. Thing were falling off the wall in the background. Awesome guys, I sure hope the Z can handle all that. When are you planning its maiden run?
  10. Hello Uncle Wayne,

     

    Yep we plan on attending Reynolds. Need to make a few shakedown passes. It won't be until two weeks. I have to work all next weekend. I just hope the Z will hold together.

     

    Have a safe trip back....

     

    John

     

    C'mon, guys....ya gotta stop this stuff...you embarass the rest of us duffers as it is. Geez...blown alcohol; whole different ball game isn't it? Well, I'm just kidding on the first part. I'm super proud of y'all for always being out on that limb...:o) Hope to see you in Reynolds..that is if I can get back from Japan, which is where I am right now. I know for sure I won't have the hotrod together (JE pistons aren't in yet) for Reynolds...how 'bout y'all? Super job and looks mighty clean. I'm downloading the video as we speak so I can get my fix while I am here. Best of luck to you folks.

     

    Regards,

    Wayne

  11. I posted this under Our new project, but just in case no one was following it or has already looked at it. I decided to post it here.

     

    Finished everything this morning. Jerry came by after lunch and we poured 5 gal. of Alky in her. Primed her with race gas and fired it up. She breathed life long enough for me to set the timing. We shut it down and was just amazed at how the torque / power felt and sound.

     

    I told Jerry we better start building the other Z. I think we are going to rip this one apart.

     

    Below is the link to a video I took after checking everything out from earlier. It is a 30meg video some right click on the link and save as.

     

    http://www.jnjdragracing.com/alky/firingitup.mpg

     

    After watching it I noticed stuff falling off the shelves, this thing is awsome. It shakes my shop etc.....

     

    Can you hear the Power......:burnout:

     

     

    John

  12. Finished everything this morning. Jerry came by after lunch and we poured 5 gal. of Alky in her. Primed her with race gas and fired it up. She breathed life long enough for me to set the timing. We shut it down and was just amazed at how the torque / power felt and sound.

     

    I told Jerry we better start building the other Z. I think we are going to rip this one apart.

     

    Below is the link to a video I took after checking everything out from earlier. It is a 30meg video some right click on the link and save as.

     

    http://www.jnjdragracing.com/alky/firingitup.mpg

     

    After watching it I noticed stuff falling off the shelves, this thing is awsome. It shakes my shop etc.....

     

    Can you hear the Power......:burnout:

     

    John

  13. Not sure Justin,

     

    Last time on race gas we were pushing in the area of 700 - 750 RWHP but gas builds heat and that is what we were fighting. We played with different over drive rations 1-1, 2% over and 8% over. With the Alky we are just staying with 2% over driven. I am running a stock production block so I am limited to what I can put out. Some of my friends are running overdrive ratios of 50% or more. I guess all in all it depends on your engine setup etc. You can add a Nitro mix to the alky for more power.

     

    John

     

    How much power is your blower good for anyway?

     

    Justin

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